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Tower Pro Brushless Outrunners Improved!

Old 12-18-2006, 11:59 AM
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critterhunter
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Default Tower Pro Brushless Outrunners Improved!

Just got a new batch of 2408-21, 2409-12, and 2409-18 motors (BP21, 12T, 18T) from aero-nuts.com and they have improved the motors a bit. There are now two set screws to hold the motor to it's metal mounting plate as well as two set screws on the top of the bell to hold the prop shaft to the bell, replacing the single nut that was on them before. The motor shaft hole's metal near where it mounts to the metal mounting plate also looks like it has been beefed up. These motors look much more stronger now. I'd put a bit of nail polish on the head of the set screws to prevent them from vibrating loose as I just found out that, despite how tight I made them, they like to still unscrew.
Old 12-18-2006, 02:11 PM
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wildjaych
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Default RE: Tower Pro Brushless Outrunners Improved!

what about balance? I read in some of your (or maybe someone else) other threads that you had to balance them to make them last longer. I think it was on you bulletproof stryker thread. do you still recommend that.
I am going to buy the 12T and put it on a new stryker build.
Old 12-18-2006, 04:43 PM
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Default RE: Tower Pro Brushless Outrunners Improved!

I haven't checked the balance on them yet but I'd check if I were you. Also, check that thread for further updates. Use gorilla glue to glue the carbon tubes into the body (and etc...like the magnets/dowl rods in the body/nose) and fish tank filter or some other lighter plastic than PVC for my custom motor mount. These things alone should lighten the Stryker up a good bit more. I'd still use epoxy for gluing the magnets to the one piece canopy/hatch and to glue those two together, etc. Use 3M Super 77 Spray glue to glue your tape on the body. Not needed but provided a better hold. That thread contains these updates and more.

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