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The Break in Bible?

Old 01-06-2011, 10:04 AM
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osceolaflyer
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Default The Break in Bible?

Acorrding to this article when you stop your engine to cool it should be at "BOTTOM DEAD CENTER". How do you tell if you have the piston in that location? Thanks


"the break in bible" <hr size="1" style="color: rgb(222, 220, 215); background-color: rgb(222, 220, 215);" />If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your XX's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory XX settings are very rich on every XX I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pinthat's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 XX engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shotyou have nothing to gain except longer life & more power [img]file:///C:/Users/Dave/Desktop/Tamiya%20Nitrage/Break%20in%20info_files/smile.gif[/img]

not written by me , stephen bess wrote the article
Old 01-06-2011, 10:18 AM
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Anthoop
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Default RE: The Break in Bible?

Plenty of ways.

Rotate the flywheel by hand and you will feel where TDC is (when it gets hard to turn), 180 degrees round is BDC.
I strip any new engine before running it and mark the flywheel so that I know where BDC is.
Remove the glow plug and insert a plastic/wooden rod through the plug hole and rotate the flywheel.
Remove the exhaust manifold and look to see where the piston is.

Oh and I always put the piston at BDC when it is not running, no matter break in or not.....it will make the engine live longer.
Old 01-06-2011, 10:27 AM
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osceolaflyer
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Default RE: The Break in Bible?

Thanks for the info. I did take out the glow plug and turn the engine with a wooden stick in it. That was too easy! Thanks
Old 01-06-2011, 11:46 AM
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guntek18
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Default RE: The Break in Bible?

Its a good idea to establish "BDC" ,

then mark or notch the flywheel so you dont have to take plug out or play a guessing game everytime you stop your engine.
Old 01-06-2011, 12:00 PM
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osceolaflyer
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Default RE: The Break in Bible?

Already done. Thanks Breaking it in as we speak.

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