Tuning HELP!!!! I fear blowing this one up too.
#1
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Tuning HELP!!!! I fear blowing this one up too.
I received my new sportwerks .26 engine and had to do some mods but its in and starts. Before I blow this one up I need some tuning help. Running traxxas 20 fuel and its the sportwerks slide carb. I know everybody says the traxxas fuel is terrible, but I just want to run this gallon out while I order some good stuff. It starts with the glow plug igniter on but will not stay running. Please walk a nitro dumb ass through this and some fuel recommendations would be great also. Will put pics of the tmaxx beast when I can have it together for more than 5 minutes.
#2
Traxxas fuel is okay. Byrons and ODonnels is better. I run Byron Gen2 25% and my engines run really well. No real reason to go higher on a basher. My main complaint over the years about Traxxas 20% fuel has nothing to do with the quality of it. Its the messiest fuel to use. It wont fully burn off and huge amounts of residue drools out of the exhaust and makes a mess on everything.
Couple of things. Make sure the igniter is always fully charged. Weak wont help. Also its okay to leave the igniter on the plug until you get some heat in the engine. Leaving it on the plug for 30 to 60 seconds might be necessary to get enough heat built up to so that the plug will continue to ignite fuel on its own. Pre warming with a hair dryer or heat gun can help to with a stubborn engine. Obviously you use more caution with the heat guns as they can get hot enough to damage parts.
If that wont do it, then its time to start re-checking the throttle connections and radio settings and be absolutely sure your idle gap is where the manufacture recommends. A common overlooked setting is when people set the idle gap with the radio and receiver turned off. Then they install the air filter and cant see what happens when the system is turned on. Its very possible that the servo can turn just enough to force the idle gap closed which in turn wont allow the engine to run. When I make any changes at all to any of those parts, this is the first thing I do before starting the engine.
Hopefully its something simple. Usually it is just that. Good luck with it.
Couple of things. Make sure the igniter is always fully charged. Weak wont help. Also its okay to leave the igniter on the plug until you get some heat in the engine. Leaving it on the plug for 30 to 60 seconds might be necessary to get enough heat built up to so that the plug will continue to ignite fuel on its own. Pre warming with a hair dryer or heat gun can help to with a stubborn engine. Obviously you use more caution with the heat guns as they can get hot enough to damage parts.
If that wont do it, then its time to start re-checking the throttle connections and radio settings and be absolutely sure your idle gap is where the manufacture recommends. A common overlooked setting is when people set the idle gap with the radio and receiver turned off. Then they install the air filter and cant see what happens when the system is turned on. Its very possible that the servo can turn just enough to force the idle gap closed which in turn wont allow the engine to run. When I make any changes at all to any of those parts, this is the first thing I do before starting the engine.
Hopefully its something simple. Usually it is just that. Good luck with it.
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So today I spent the day with my tmaxx. I managed to run 1 tank through and had 209 temp at the cooling fins. I ran gently and blipped the throttle occasionally. It ran well. This was after spending 1hr at the lhs with their expert. We ran my igniter dead and his was dead so not much help there. He said I should up my nitro for my Bb. This was after I was sold a gallon of 20 traxxas just a week and a half ago. No luck there. I get home and used my other battery and got the one tank to run through. Idled good after a moment of running and did not stall once. Acted a little too rich as it took about 8 seconds of pinching the fuel line for the revs to climb. Let cool for about ten minutes, had to change a bad wheel hex, filled the tank then spent the next 45 minutes trying to start it again. On my last attempt, with half a tank left from it not idling on its own, I got it to run. Brought it over and checked the temp. 240 at the fins, 297 at the glow plug. Running it had good blue smoke. I'm ready to pitch it and go electric. How could this be? Half tank and I was no harder on it than the first run. Settings are HSN 3.25 and lsn 1.75. I'm lost.
#4
Not being familiar with Sportwerks engines, I went looking for info. What little I found tells me that these engines are pretty much...crap, which from what I read pretty much sum's it up. Other than a few parts on flEbay, I cant find anyone in the US still selling them. The problems your having seam to be the same problems folks were having with them many years ago when they were more readily available. I guess it explains why no one sells them any longer.