71goat

I really wish I knew what I am doing wrong with my axial.32 , I just can't keep the temps down , I've e-mail axial about it they told me to adjust the lsn 1 full turn cw, the hsn ccw 1 full turn, still does it (high temps) I've sealed the motor, see no bubbles when doing bubble test thing, Other people on different threads cave me some advice I do what they say but always the same, thinking about putting a hpi carb on to see what happenes.
Anybody else have any ideas????
Thanks

SAVAGEJIM

Dont worry about 260-270degrees F especially if the engine is not making any bad noises or giving other cues of being way too rich orway too lean. Some big blocks will actilly reach 300degrees F and run at their optimum performance.

rrusso

270 is normal for thaT ENGINE

71goat

Thanks SAVAGEJIM & rrusso
Even during break-in?

SAVAGEJIM

Absolutely, and yes, especially during break-in. Always run the engine at operating temp during brak-in. The instruction manual says to break-in the engine at a lower temp, but they only lie to like that so that you ill have to either buy a new engine or replace the piston & sleeve soon.

ALWAYS break-in the engine at the operating temp that the engine will run at when it is fully broken in. If you break it in at lower temps, you will only take away from the engine's life. Where you could have got 15gallons from the engine, the engine manual break-in instructions will only allow the engine to live for 5-10 gallons!

71goat

Thanks
It just has me worried, because the force.32 That I'm breaking in too, I've went thru about 5 tanks before the temps started to hit in the 200, and the force seems to have more power, everything I've read seems to say that the axial should be better, the force pulls the wheels on my mgt with full alum. temps at 200-220. axial in sons warhead, 1min temps 270-300, no wheelies, how do I know what to hot is??

SAVAGEJIM

The Warhead is a heavy truck, much heavier than the MGT I believe. Additionally, I dont think th Warhead engine is as powerful as your Force engine. A more powerful engine contributes to wheelies. Also, the Warhead might be geard high. A high gear ratio seriously tames wheelies and even eliminates them in some cases. If you want your Warhead to wheelie, try getting lower gears.

As for engine performance and tuning issues, so long as the Force and Warhead engines sound good and run crisply at the pull of the trigger and so long as they do not make and bad noises or do not issue any smoke at all, they are in good tune.

71goat

THANK YOU

RichSavage

I have been having problems with my Axial when the weather heats up. I have found that it dies and becomes hard to start as the weather gets hotter. I was running a hot plug and changed to a cold one but haven't got out to check it out yet. I live in Colorado and with our higher altitude I have even tried richening the high speed some but the engine is only running around 225.

HELP!

I really want to get this going again. Also, I am running a JP-3 pipe and have the engine in a Kyosho ST-USSport truggy.

[]

71goat

Well this is a bunch of crap, I have an Axial.32 that has been running hot, the front bearing is leaking, Axial said they will not warrenty it because I was using a OS 8 plug, they said it is the wrong plug for that motor, BUT nowhere in there instructions does it say what kind of plug THEY recommened to use. now I have a piece of crap axial .32 sitting here Very Disapponited in the AXIAL MOTOR

jaywax

Don't sweat it. My front bearing leaked a little when I first started running my Spec 1 .28. It will stop after break-in and the engine runs at operating temp. You need to run a standard length plug (long shaft). McCoy #8 and others like it are okay. It will make a difference in the engine. Hope this helps.

71goat

I already did the heat cycle break in method, thats when i noticed the bearing leaking, now it always runs hot

jaywax

Do not tune by temps, some engines run perfect at higher temps. Tune by performance and a nice trail of blue smoke from pipe. Sometimes your temp gun can be off. It happens all the time.

I consider break-in at a minimum of 1/2 gallon. My engine had a little leak at the beginning and I e-mailed Axial about it. They said it was normal on new engines and that it will stop. Mine stopped. You are running the wrong size plug. This will make a big difference in how the motor reacts. You need to run a standard (long plug). Your engine will run hotter when it is new. It will cool down and run more consistent as engine breaks in.

If all fails. Replace front bearing. []

71goat

Thanks for the info an support jaywax
Well I decided to take carb off and stick in some soapy water, you'd think I was taking a bubble bath, holy crap now i know why I was running so hot

jasrx

well then u are geting ripped off , i just brought[ should have it monday] my 28 for $219

SAVAGEJIM

That is true. I just checked backwards and forwards through their engine manual and found out that NO plug lengths are specified or reccommended. They only talk about chossing clod to hot plugs for temp and weather reasons, but not once did they say "USE Long plugs" or "DO NOT use short plugs."

I would call them back and say that you were using the correct temp plug for your conditions and demand that the OS short was beyond the scope to ther plug recommendations.

lsurber

All the reports of people have high temps concerns me! I had the same issue with an engine........ I had it so rich my finger was dripping oil but the engine was smoking hot during break-in and finally destructed. The manufacturer sent another one promptly and were very nice! Not wanting to take any chances with the new engine I took it apart to check everything. What I found was a pinch that was way too tight and not enough crank counter-weight/piston skirt clearance! If I had turned the engine over it would have destructed in short time! The pinch in these engines has to be perfect otherwise too much heat will build up from friction. If you do manage to make it through the break-in period you have stressed the rod and wrist-pin so much it should be replaced. This prevents premature mechanical failure caused by heat. It shouldn't take a gallon of fuel to break-in any engine........period! In 1:1 racing engines the rule is build it loose! This keeps frictional heating to a minimum and reduces the time needed to break-in your engine. It also prevents temperature related stress from causing catastrophic mechanical failure! With all the stuff being made so cheaply in Asia today it concerns me that maybe tools are being used too long and tolerances being lost! BEWARE!

Uglysteve

My Axial ran great while it lasted and ran at 210-215 full and 230 empty. My first .28 lasted 10+ gallons and my second i pulled off to install a Picco p3 which is twice the engine that the axial is and its only $195. But that Axial is a good engine for bashing. It won't win any races against the novarossi 528 or the picco p3, but it's still a good engine.

71goat

Thank you I thought I was going blind, well I sent the engine in with a letter explaining the same thing, if it over heated, it is not my fault, 1 because they don't say any thing about what plug to use, or what would void the warrenty, 2nd was the carb leaked all over the place, (even tho they said all carbs leak) so if the engine was ruined it was not my fault but there's , they have had it since 7-14-07, I still have not had a reply, will see what they say
Thanks savagejim


Got it back today,7-27-07, looks like they put new carb on,dosen't look like they tested it tho.

shawband

HEY ALL FIRST POST BUT I HAVE GOOD INFO. I HAVE AN AXIAL AND YES IT STARTED TO OVERHEAT. BUT UPON INVESTIGATION THE CLUTCH SPRING WERE TOO SOFT AND THE SHOES WERE ACTUALLY MELTING. THEY CAUSE THE SHOE TO SLIGHTLY ENGAGE DURING IDLE AND THE TEMP SHOT UP. I PUT HEAVY SPRINGS AND METAL CLUTCH SHOES AND THE TEMP SHOT BACK UNDER 200. HAD TO LEAN IT OUT JUST TO GET NEAR TEMP. IT RUNS LIKE A SCALDED CAT BUT THE LOST IN PERFORMANCE AND HIGH TEMPS CAME FROM PLASTIC CLUTCH CHOES AND SOFT SPRINGS, GOOD LUCK.

PS. HAD TO STRUGGLE TO GET TO PAST 220. STILL RUNNING ABOUT THAT RANGE WIITH MOSTLY ALL OUT ASS HAULIN FUN.

Wingwrecker

So it's been quite a while since anyone's posted here and I'm about to get a new Axal .28 Spec 1s. Have the issues been resolved? Anyone here still having problems with a newer Axial engine?

My Name Is Brad

I have an axial .28 1 s in my raze and I am in love with it. I always starts on the first few pulls and runs great. It hauls ***** and has some serious power.

Wingwrecker

Good to know, thank you.

supermod

awsome engine super easy to work on...carb has isues mid range needle o rings shrink up and the needle will back itself out and leak fule.i sealed my up with high temp auto sealent.problem fixed

Wingwrecker

Cool. So no problems with fuel/air leaks anywhere else on the motor?