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Nitro Guide and FAQs

Old 07-08-2008, 10:37 PM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

I have a 3.3 motor in my Jato. I just bought it off ebay and he said it had about a gallon ran through it. We tried to tune and we can not get it. It will start ok and run ok but it will not idle. We tried to adjust the idle screw. It either running way to fast and driving by itself or it will run but once you stop it will die within 5 seconds. It seems to run fine otherwise going at high speed and it has plenty of blue smoke coming from the exhaust. The LSN is either set flush or is maybe out a little from flush, the HSN is around 4 turns out.
Old 07-12-2008, 09:32 PM
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Just broke in my first engine today thanks to this great guide. After the break in, it ran fine for a while, but now I give the engine gas, and it revs up like it is supposed to, but does not engage the transmission. Does this sound like a clutch problem? I check everything, especially the spring, because I was worried about it when I put it back on, but it still looks the same...
Old 09-17-2008, 07:53 PM
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Maybe the flywheel nut is not tight enough???
Old 09-17-2008, 09:09 PM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

that would have been my guess too, is the engine by chance running backwards? sometimes i get the backward running start. But corrects itself after I give it a rev. This seems to happen only when I start the engine....

Is the one-way rollers on your large pinion broken? If it is it would spin crazy but the shaft wont turn. Its very hard to break that one-way device, if you did, tell everyone how you managed to do so.......Im courious..
Old 09-19-2008, 11:23 PM
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It could be you slipper clutch is way to loose to

That happened to me once with my Jato, I was running and all of a sudden it started slipping really bad and would barely moved. I thought I burnt up the clutch so I tore is all apart just to find out all I had to do was tighten the slipper clutch []
Old 09-24-2008, 09:27 AM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

Hello to everyone!

I'v bought my first RC car and i have little problem tuning it up... Yes I have read tuning tutorial and tried to tune it but i have IDLE problems... First of all, i'm using low % nitro because I had running in phase. I'v spend 5 thanks of nitro and now i want to tune it so i could have a little bit more power.

I have leaned a bit HSN (4 x 1/8) and have a little more power when i tried to setup LSN i cant... When I'm warming car i use "auto" throttle so my car stays on. When it warms up i disable auto throttle and than i drive for few minutes and when i stop, my car want to go off. I tried full throttle start and my cars starts good but whent off after i hit brake...

I'm not sure if i should lean LSN because i read that if I lean HSN that the LSN is leaned to.

Please Help, I'm all new in this and I'm afraid that i could damage my engine...

Sorry for my bad English...
Old 09-25-2008, 07:31 PM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs


ORIGINAL: RCtruckRacer

Mine has less info, but may be good for someone new to the hobby to keep in their wallet, pit box etc. A quick reference tuning guide if you will.

Why do we ‘tune’ our engines? How is it done? This guide assumes that you are familiar with all of the parts of your R/C's engine. If you are unsure what a Low Speed Needle (LSN), High Speed Needle (HSN), idle screw etc are, please refer to the manual (RTFM).
Tuning a nitro/methane 2 stroke engine literally means adjusting the air/fuel mixture inside the chamber. This is done by means of adjusting the amount of fuel that is allowed to flow into the carburetor via needles which can be opened and closed. Most of us know that there are a wide variety of factors that affect that air/fuel mixture in the chamber other than just adjusting the needles. Because of this an engine may have to be tuned several times in the same day for optimum performance. Not maintaining an optimum air/fuel ratio can result in poor performance, or even engine failure!

There is a point, in every engine, at which air/fuel mixture will allow the engine to obtain its maximum HP and RPM’s. Tuning your engine to that point can be dangerous, as the mixture is somewhat lacking in the lubricants necessary to give maximum protection to the engine. Therefore, most people will want to run slightly rich (more fuel in the mixture) of that point. This is referred to as the ‘Sweet Spot.’ Some racers will run at pure max potential, but they also don’t usually care if the engine only lasts a gallon… Running at those settings can be very dangerous because being too lean is just a very slight adjustment away.

And running lean is the real engine killer, not temperature. With proper lubrication, the internal components of an R/C engine can easily withstand temperatures of 300F, maybe even more. The thing is, these engines are designed to operate at temperatures around 210 – 270 F. While there is the possibility you will encounter an engine and conditions that dictate the temperature at proper tune is over 300, it will be a rare occurrence. What that boils down to is that there is a good possibility that there is a problem if your engine reaches too high of a temperature. That is why it’s a good idea to monitor the engine temperature, but not use it as a guide for adjusting the air/fuel mixture in the engine.

So, how do you get to that ‘Sweet Spot?’
1) Start out with rich settings. If you are unsure how to go about this, an easy way is to start with stock needle settings. This includes the idle screw - make sure it is set at factory settings, usually a 1 or 2 mm opening for the idle stop. The factories always set engines rich for break ins.
2) next, warm up the engine. Try not to hammer the throttle too much while its still bone cold, but slowly work your way up to a couple WOT runs.
3) Now that the engine is warmed up (1/2 tank is good), do a couple WOT runs of about 50-100ft in front of you and pay attention to the pitch of your engine. The higher the pitch, the more RPM's its doing.
4) Now lean out the HSN by 1 hour increments (30 degrees, 1/12 of a full circle etc) and continue to do some WOT runs in front of you. The engine's max RPM's should continue to go up each and every time you lean out the HSN by those 1 hour changes. If it doesn't, you have reached the top end and need to richen by an hour. Make sure that you do not continue to lean out the HSN after max RPM's have been reached. You will damage the engine.

Congratulations, you just found the sweet spot. Now, if you notice that the car/truck bogs a bit at take off, lean out the LSN (again 1 hr increments) until it will take off at the touch of the trigger.
And you're done. At this point I like to temp the engine to get a baseline reading for the day.

This is a simple and fool proof method of tuning that everyone can do. Regardless of your experience.

Please follow the steps above.
IMHO very accurate info.

Regards.
Old 09-25-2008, 09:50 PM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

It was during January this year when I first started with RC stuff. Now I have 3 RC nitros.

Tamiya 1/10 .15 engine. 2x Kyosho Infernogts, 1 BMW M3 and Kalsonic ImpulzzZZZZ

At the moment, The IMPULZ is still new, It is on my shelf looking sharp, I got upgrades for it!!. Tires, Rims, air filter metal mesh type, servos, controler(spectrum) and fuel filter.

Anyways.......The last time I played with the kyosho was back in july......

I MOVED ONTO FISH KEEPING!!!

Its soo cool!! I have 2 freshwater aquariums.....Beta tank, 4 gallon tank, and another goldfish tank 10 gallons.

Newest addition is a Saltwater Marine aquarium with mini reef ecology system with white sand, anemone, sea stars, 2 clown fishes, and 2 figure 8 puffers. AND I HAVE LIVE ROCKS!!! Hahahaa take from australia!!!

DUDES, when you get bored of RC NITRO CARS?? Start a mini reef system. You will have to spend as much as you would in the RC Stuff. except that your reef grows on its own. Its better than freshwater because the protein skimmers clean the waters. But the parameters like PH, Alkaline, Nitrite, Nitrate and ammonia must be checked once a week.


FISH KEEPING IS FUN!!! Best of all....Its a pretty sight. Metal Halide lights, and 10,000k lamps make the reef so active, teaming with LIFE!! OMG go check it out!!
Old 09-26-2008, 10:39 AM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

Besides the reef, do you have some other way to clean the water?
Is always necesary to have an air pump into the aquarium?
Old 09-26-2008, 10:13 PM
  #235  
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Its actually very simple...

Most of the time, the biological filter, or mechanical filters will cycle the water through its filtration system. The water that has been filtered is pumped back into the tank or aquarium. The flow thats going back is suspended higher than the regular water level line, and thus when the water spashes into the main tank, you often get air bubbles. Thus it isnt necessary to have an air pump.

Freshwater aquariums require frequent water changes as there is no way of getting rid of harful ammonia that can build up in a tank. Nitrates can also build up if live plants arnt used. But even if plants were used, plants cant consume enough nitrates to counter balance the wastes that fishes make. Therefore a 25% water change on a weekly basis will occure for most fish. If you have gold fish, then you can do a 50% every month....

Saltwater on the other hand have go into 1 month without changing water. The bigger the tank, the lesser you need to change the water. Saltwater systems have protein skimmers, these skimmers remove fish waste, and neutrients from the water, and deposits them in a small champer thats handy to remove for cleaning. This system allows the waste to seperate from the water from the main tank, and thus any bacteria or decay from the waste will not contaminate the main tank.

Saltwater fishes are by far the most expensive, they range from $5.99 to $1999 each. Blue tangs for example, the blue fish from the movie "Finding Nemo" ...the one that accompanies Nemo's dad on his trip to finding his son, yes that fish, that blue tang costs above $500 depending on size....

Anyways...With saltwater, maintainance is easier, you still need to do water changes, but not as frequently as the freshwater aquariums. Saltwater tanks require you to remove and clean(flush out with water) the collection chamber on the protein skimmer.

Aside from that, I favor saltwater as there is an ecosystem in there that balances everything just like the ocean. Also, saltwater fishes are mostly wild caught, and are more colorful and active. I would say that they show natural behaviors way better than freshwater fishes.

GOOD LUCK ON YOUR ADVENTURE!
Old 09-29-2008, 05:33 AM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

Hi,

thnx for guide, I tried to follow the guide but i have another problem... I bought 16 % nitro (before that i had run in nitro), I start my car, leave it for one minute to warm up, then i do couple of low speed runs to warm it up more. When cars go warmer I adjust throttle on my remote to lower RPM-s. When throttle is fully realest my car runs good on Idle. I leave it for about 30 sec on Idle to check if Idle is OK. Car is running OK. Then, when i apply Full throttle my car starts good, go to max. RPM-s then I hit the break and then it turns off. Because of that I cant set HSN and cannot find "Sweet spot". Temp of the motor is good. i spit on the motor and it takes 4-6 sec. for water to disappear. Maybe i'm running to rich? But i read somewhere that if HSN or LSN is set to lean that motor can turns off on higher RPM-s. So again, I'm not shure if I should lean the HSN or LSN or make it richer...

I'm runing Reely Leopard Pro: Technical details are here: http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...m=120308893326

Thnx for Helping!

Old 09-30-2008, 12:49 AM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

ORIGINAL: igor.tabak

When cars go warmer I adjust throttle on my remote to lower RPM-s.
How are you able to do that? The only why I can think of is to actually set the servo back to close the carb opening, but you have a low end screw that prevents it from quitting on a really really low idle right? If it does prevent you from doing that, then you probably have a rich low end. When you go into a high speed pass, you get alot of unburned fuel in the crack case, they are essentially ready to go! but because your low end is also rich, it tends to bog the engine down when the rpm is brought down(you chocked the air supply).

In short: if you close the carb opening, you let in less air and still have alot of unburnned fuel, this chokes the engine from being too rich, turn in your low end a bit more until you find that the engine continues to run after a high speed pass. Yes, it is a good idea to do this when the engine is at its operating temps.

Also, if you went too far, your engine will also die, but before that happens, your engine will seem to want to rev when you release the throttle to bring it down to idle rpm. This case, you have a lean low end, lean enough that the air to fuel misture is very efficient good for running at a faster rpm. But when it climbs in RPM, there wont be enough fuel and then the engines suddenly quits.

I've had a case of going through 1 glow plug per run from an ultra lean mixture, if you have the money, go for it! Trust me, you've never seen your engine do anything as crazy untill you've made a super lean mixture. I would say, there is at least a 20% increase performance compared to the normal mixtures we offer. But the down side is that you have to replace glow plug each run. And temps reach very very high. You would want to run it without the body.

Performance is better on cold days too!!!! Your engine will suddenly sound like its pissed off at the world....=D


Did you know, a goldfish will continue to swim after 30% of its body goes missing? I found that out one morning when I spotted a goldfish with a chunck of its body missing. The puffer fish oddly enough had a big buldge in its skin like stomach.....hm, I wonder.........
Old 09-30-2008, 06:41 AM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

Yes, I actually set the servo for more open carb so i can start my car, when my car warms up i "release throtthle" to default... (My manual says that car should be started with 1/4 carb opened, and it's truth, if it's not, i can't start my car...).

When U are saying low end screw U don't mean LSN or HSN? It's the third screw? Yes, I have it, and again, the manual says: Don't touch it, it's OK by default. Today I didn't touch it because I wasn't sure witch screw U were thinking at.

The answer U gave me is the same thing I was thinking, but today, i tried to lean LSN (not third screw) and I didn't get better results... My cars want to run without me and the same problem stays... Today I notice that when my cars go off, through my exhaust still goes the smoke for a 3 sec. And I think I have seen a little bit of liquid (nitro or oil) going out through my exhaust when car is on idle. When give him a 3/4 throttle, plenty of smoke goes out through the exhaust...

About super leaning my engine, I'm not sure I need more speed or PS, first, I need to tune my engine so I can run it without problem... By specs., my car should go about 120 km/h and that means it have plenty of power and I just need to release it having a good setup of the carb...

Greetings!
Old 10-03-2008, 11:52 PM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

could someone pm me on exacyly what heat cycling break in is it would be much apriciated and what is the best way to break in a engine for the longest life possible. thank you
Old 11-16-2008, 12:20 PM
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HI I HAVE A MASTER VH X5, IT'S BRAND NEW. ALL PIPES ECT ARE FITTED. I HAVE HEATED THE HEAD, AND CONNECTED THE BATTERY PACK THE GLOW PLUG. IT HAS PLENTY OF PETROL, AND THE GLOW PLUG IS GLOWING. STILL THE CAR WON'T TURN OVER. IT'S NOT EVEN ATTEMPTING TO FIRE. PLEASE CAN ANY1 HELP?
Old 11-16-2008, 10:59 PM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

lots of great info on here, i have read it righ from the start and may have learned a couple things, but my problem is my temps get up and over 300 if i am not careful, and it blows blue smoke, i have tried and tried to get the temps down. sealed the engine, not sure what else to do any help would be great
Old 11-28-2008, 07:56 PM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

Ok quick ?
My motor (Axial .28) will run great reving it up then you close the throttle and it with die. This is with the HSN all over the board factory/way lean/way rich. Also sometimes with it idling it will auto accel that is rev up with out opening the throttle up. Any Ideas?
Old 11-28-2008, 08:29 PM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

You got a carb leak[:@]Probley the mid range needle o-rings gone south,Try the soapy water trick on the whole carb to find the leak.
Old 11-28-2008, 09:17 PM
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How would I go about doing that?
Old 12-13-2008, 12:17 AM
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does anyone have any tips for installation of the pipe to the motor because the gasket is so tight on the engine block but i dont know how to get it on all the way
Old 12-13-2008, 12:26 AM
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That rubber piece that fits over the exhaust of the motor might be to big around and that is why the pipe will not fit.
Old 01-04-2009, 09:40 AM
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No questions...yet...just wanted to thank the guys/gals for the answers that I have been posted.
Tons of information that I did not make it to the owners manual.
Thanks!
Old 02-07-2009, 01:48 AM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

I have posted a similar tutorial on Squidoo. I have also provided a link back to this thread if you don't mind. You guys will like this Squidoo Lens I made. It's only going to get better as I update it frequently. Also, be sure to check out my other lenses on Squidoo.

Here's a link to the Nitro Engine Tuning Tutorial on Squidoo:

http://www.squidoo.com/nitro-engine-tuning

Enjoy!
Old 05-30-2009, 01:20 AM
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Default RE: Nitro Guide and FAQs

Im still using this guide for new comers
Old 06-17-2009, 12:23 PM
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How is this tuning guide I put together?

<font size="2">I’ve read a few tuning tips online, and I have to say that I have never seen a guide (Ron Paris guide might be an exception, but that only works for some engines) that says to tune the low speed needle (LSN) and idle first, then do the HSN. I’ve asked a few people at tracks to help tune my engine when I was clueless, and ALL five of them took off the box, put it on the starter box or car stand (anything that lifts the tires above the ground) and tune the LSN and idle first. One of the people who really helped me out was Adam Drake, I had a rich LSN and lean HSN and it just didn’t feel right. He did the method below and it helped me out a lot! So let me explain an easier method that works on almost all types of engines!</font> </p><div style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; LINE-HEIGHT: 115%">Start off by leaning the LSN, then counteract the idle by lowering the idle. What this does is when you lean the LSN, the idle gets higher, so you want to lower the idle with the idle <font color="#000000">screw</font>. Do this until the engine revs up slightly and dies within 4-5 seconds when doing the pinch test. To do the pinch test, follow these steps-run the car on the surface you will be running on for a few minutes. What I do is preheat with a heat gun until head temp gets to 250, so inside the engine gets to about 200. Fire the engine up and idle for a bit getting the RPM’s up to clear the engine out. Run it for a good 2-3 minutes then come back in. Temp should be between 200-250. Or better yet, don’t worry about temps now, just make sure the engine is warmed up. Come in and let the engine idle for 15 seconds, then pinch the line. Engine should rev up slightly then die in 4-5 seconds. If it dies immediately, richen LSN ¼ of a turn. If engine doesn’t idle at all, put idle up ½ turn and lean LSN 1/8 of a turn until idle is stable. Now you can continue leaning the LSN and lowering the idle <font color="#000000">screw</font>. Do this until you do the pinch test and get it at 4-5 seconds.  Now you have your LSN and idle perfectly tuned, you now tune your HSN. Before you do that, richen LSN 1/8-1/4 turn depending on how lean or rich the HSN was before (if it was at race tune, richen LSN 1/8, if at factory richen about 1/4) I do this because when you lean the HSN you also lean the LSN. Now you can basically call your temps and performance from the HSN. Once you got your engine running great with a "fair or small" amount of </span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; LINE-HEIGHT: 115%; TEXT-DECORATION: none; text-underline: none">smoke</span><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: black; LINE-HEIGHT: 115%">, check engine temp. Engine should be around 200-250. If lower, lean HSN and if higher, stop engine and richen HSN. If the engine is in between 200-250, recheck LSN with the pinch test. Your engine should idle low, tires shouldn’t spin if your tires are off the ground (well they could spin slowly but I would decrease the idle a bit more). NOW you have a perfectly tuned engine. After that, you really shouldn’t need to tune your LSN and idle much unless of big temperature or humidity changes. This way has worked out the best for me, rather than the HSN first, then LSN, then idle. That method never really made sense to me for some reason. This method might take a bit longer, but in my opinion it is a lot easier and your engine will produce more power! Hope this helps for anyone who wants to try something different or is lost in a tune.
</span></div>

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