zaintlouis

This is to start a new thread. there should be no unnecessary argument. This is just to learn the step by step procedure on how to dismantle an engine. No shortcuts. If one can provide photos will be very much appreciated.
After the step by step procedure we then discus the problems you encounter when dismantling the engine.


First warning statements would be given before starting to dismantle. Warning such that one should know the exact reasons when to start dismantling then we start the first step second step and so on and so forth.

If one could provide photos to show us, i would be very much be gratified. and many amongst us who have never have dismantle an engine before will easily understand what to do. thank you in advance to those who can provide us the information we needed.

Foxy

nevermind

fuzion18ss

You could check out http://hpiracing.com/walkthroughs/engrebuild.htm but i wouldn't use the pliers like they do.

HeLLsGoD

I dont think its very complicated dismantling a nitro engine, its not like its rocket science. The only complication i can think off is the sleeve wont come out of the crankcase which means you have to use zipties and replacing bearings.

Aslong as you have the manual for the engine, u know which part goes where.

SManMTB

Easy as pie.



1. Remove cooling head
2. Remove backplate
3. Remove liner. Put a piece of thick plastic or wood in the exhaust and push out the liner witht he piston if it's stuck. (leave flywheel on for this purpose)
4. Remove rod and piston assembly
5. Remove flyheel. A bearing puller is a useful tool for this.
6. Knock out crank shaft

No rocket science here.

saintlouis

@ foxy42

once you get over step 3, everything will be more easy. the ideal stick to use to push the piston out is the slim paint brush for charcoal drawing, paint or drum stick.

Foxy

nevermind

zaintlouis

Sman is right.....


EASY AS PIE

Anyway if theres anyone who still needs further explanation, pls don't hesitate to ask or pm me.

My advice in removing the screws specially on the cylinder head.

Use the proper tools or don't use any under size philips or screwdrivers when you start to unscrew or that would destroy the screw head whether philips or hexheads etc. The width of the screwdriver should be atleast equal or as big as the circumference of the screw head. Trust me.

magbarn

Another helpful hint on removing the cooling head screws is to use a hair dryer/heat gun to heat up the top part of the engine. Screws come out alot easier.

Foxy

Why are you posting as two different users...requesting advice then offering it...furthermore, I've never seen an engine with philips head screws holding the head on (If I did, I wouldn't touch it with a long stick), and I would think that even a ten year old would know not to use the wrong size tools to dismantle an engine. "At least equal or as big as the circumference of the screw head???", what, the handle? The shaft? A shaft can be any thickness and have the correct head to undo a screw with a head of much larger diameter. There's no rule about this. I don't think you know what you're talking about, which is why I've edited my posts and I'm getting out of this thread. No offense intended, I just don't think it's gonna be useful for me.

SManMTB

I wonder the same thing.

RBMike

Sman forgot the number one mistake people make when dis-assembling their motor. Before you pull the back plate off make sure the piston is at TDC. Many motors have a cut out in the back plate that the piston skirt enters when at the bottom of the stroke. If you pull on the back plate with the piston in the down position you will break your piston. I would also add that before you remove a single screw, you should clean the outside of the motor very carefully. Many people get dirt in their motors when they take them apart. Cleanlyness is the key to a long lasting motor. They should be clean enough to eat off of before you start. Also a clean work area is a must. I also never open a motor at the track, do it at home where it's clean.

SManMTB

Good point.

downunder

Stripping an engine is quite simple but there's one little trick to be aware of before you go too far. 99% of all engines have a conrod that's only designed to fit one way and unless you know what to look for then you've got a 50/50 chance of getting it back together the right way so make a mark on the back of the rod before you take it off the crankpin. Once you've got the rod off then you can look to see the difference. Inside the lower bush where it goes up against the crankweb there'll be a very small chamfer while the other end of the bush (the end you see when you take off the backplate) will be machined flat to the rod. The chamfer is cut into the bush to give a clearance for the tiny radius machined where the crankpin meets the crankweb. The radius is there to relieve any stresses and make the crankpin stronger.

If you're going to remove the rod from the piston then mark the piston as well unless it's obvious it can only go back in one way because of any machining on the skirt.

zaintlouis

I was on my other computer installing programs/downloading files in big sizes. i figure to browse the intenet is the best thing to do to burn time while waiting for things to be done. My other computer where i'm always log in with the zaintlouis account is being used by my 3 yo son playing computer games. This computer never shuts down. with or without me.

[quote]requesting advice then offering it[quote]

Obviously the requested information was given. so i learned and finished dismantling my engine. So i thought i might as well started helping other newbies here. coz i believe not all people are smart as you are. Just please don't think all hobbyist are as old as you and knows well as you.

i'm not implying it just on the cylinder head, it applies to all. maybe, the fact that this thread is about the engine is what made you think that i was pertaining only to the head.

(My advice in removing the screws specially on the cylinder head) - this statement alone means i'm not referring just on the cylinder head.

i disagree. not all kids or grown ups are talented as you are.Thats a fact. i even made a mistake myself. when taking off the screws on the head, i thought i could take it out with the screw driver the one below on the photo but it didn't. instead the screwdriver the one above took the job done. because it has a bigger tip (obviously not the handle)


yes, provided the screws are not TOO TIGHT! IF THEY ARE, forcing a smaller shaft with a smaller head which what you might have thought is the right screwdriver to undo a screw with a bigger head you're dead wrong. you will just destroy the screws on the cylinder and might end up to impossibly get the cylinder head off.

That's why i'm replacing my cylinder head screws with hex head this time. I do not need to explain further more coz you're a screw up. I hope others understand. for you and sman. i don't care.

Man, i thought you change. you're still the same person. screw you too.

SManMTB

zaintlouis - you're just a jerk you know that right.

Foxy

Fair enough on the two usernames thing, two PCs, fine, but you know you can log in multiple times with the same account? I often leave my home PC running all the time (it doubles as a webserver in some respects), and I use my regular account while I'm at work too. It's just that people often use 2 accounts to troll, so it automatically raises suspicions...

Anyway, I feel the need to say (I'm not the forum police or anything, so feel free to tell me to go to hell) be careful about giving advice on subjects that you are not sure of. I'm pretty confident I know more than you about dismantling engines and I consider myself far from being an expert, and would never consider offering advice in this topic, as I don't think my knowledge is sufficient. Since you are still learning too, may I suggest you restrict yourself to listening and learning. When someone only knows half the story it's pretty obvious, and you open yourself up for bad criticism, as well as potentially advising someone to do something that may be dangerous or incorrect. No hobby grade engine has any philips head screws in it. Period. You were talking about engines, and you showed your lack of knowledge in the process of trying to give advice. There're 2 sayings which I have learned in my 15 years in IT, which I feel are particularly relevant here...1) A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, and 2) Assumption is the mother of all screw ups. I'm sure you started this thread with the right intentions, but leave the advice to the experts...no hard feelings...see you around...

I hope I haven't come off as some kind of pratt here, I am just trying to help you to maintain a good rep on the forums.

zaintlouis

Oh men these Two Gurus think what i've said cannot help other people. I mostly couldn't express well in english but if you didn't understand what i'm trying to say perhaps it would be better if you two go to other threads and mesh things up there. What is learned from experience can be shared anytime. That just what i've trying to do. share and help. It doesn't mean that when i'm more experienced than these other newbie, i won't listen to him no more.. i could still learn from them. Do you think the old SMan knows everything. he even learned something from rbmike and down under. What i've shared is valid coz i based it on my experience. i didn't say my engine cylinder head has philips screw on it did I? Should i not share my experience? did you 2 understand what i'm trying to say?

i would certainly do this if i made arguments to a well verse GURUS. But i believe i didn't do anything like that. i was so happy rbmike & down under have step in to share their knowledge. but now the thread had become dirty again.

I apologize sir for whatever trouble i've cost to make this thread a little dirty. i hope it all ends up here. i am truly sorry. [&o]

Foxy

Yes, I do, and please don't take it like that, I'm not criticizing your intent to help with what you do know...but suggesting not to post about things you don't know. Your English is fine, and I respect that you are trying to communicate in a language that is not your first. Peace man.

AllAboutFunHobbies

Who gives a crap about all that stuff. Where can one go abotu getting a bearing puller for a nitro engine?

downunder

A puller can't be used on the bearings but if you mean a puller to remove maybe a flywheel or prop driver on a plane engine then look at a battery terminal puller from an auto parts store. The legs may need to be filed or ground a little to get a good grip.

As for philips head screws, they were almost universally used on older engines but allen (socket) head screws have thankfully replaced them lately. My Super Tigre G51 uses slotted head screws and I believe the OS LA engines still use philips head screws. Well, not entirely correct, they're similar to philips head but for the life of me I can never remember the exact term .

SManMTB

similar to philips - could be pozidrive

Looks like Phillips heads but with an extra smaller cross 45 deg to the big one.

RBMike

Offna makes a bearing puller for .12 & .21 RC engines, I've been using it for years & it cost about $60 (if i remember correctly)..It works pretty well. The best puller I have seen is made by RB but is very expensive. The RB puller is VERY VERY good, I tryied one out that a local shop (they did motor work). A puller is not ussually nessasary but does make life alot easier if you have a need for it. I do this work for good friends allot as well as my self & was sick of putting motor cases in the oven all the time to get the main bearing out. I also have a flywheel puller if that is what you were refering to, it was made by Kyosho & cost about $20.

zaintlouis

peace is very easy to accept. Peace to you too foxy.



yeh who cares about crap stuff (except my peace stuff with foxy ok?) let's stay focus on the subject if there's more to say.