rsieminski

Is there another way, like with a cordless drill maybe?

Argess

Here you go:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXNFS7&P=ML

You might be able to save a few $$$ if you buy only the backplate and use a cordless drill:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNFT8&P=Z

Edit: Oh,......and you'll need this with the drill:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXNFT7&P=Z

PS: Get your engine problem fixed yet?

rsieminski

Dude, you are the answer man. I replaced the fuel line, retorqued all the engine screws and found one of the head screws loose. I reassembled and started her up. While trying to dial in the new needle settings, i broke the pull starter for the 4th time. With that 1 way nut on the back of the crank case, I thought I might be able to get away with a socket on the drill somehow, or some other makeshift way. He'd like to run it this weekend. It looks like, I'll order what you've suggested, for next week, or after. I'll still try to think of a way to get it started tonight though.

Thanks,
Rick

Argess

I read recently that venetian blind cord is a great replacement pull-cord......mind you, wives have a habit of dissapproving of this sort of thing......

Of course, if the spring is broken.......

rsieminski

We ran it last night, and it ate 2 glow plugs. I can't believe I can't tune these things. A few yrs ago I was heavy into RC, and now I can't even figure out this little 2 stroke. I start it rich, slowly give it full throttle to burn up the excess in the crank case, then take the glow starter off, tune the HS needle for nearly peak, then adjust the low speed for transition. I use the pinch test to see if idle is too rich/lean. This is how I remember I used to do it. Is this anywhere close to how it should be done?

Argess

Is the original problem still there, or are you just re-tuning after fixing the issue?

I wouldn't leave the glow-starter on it after you start it. I leave it on for a second or two after it starts to help keep it going, but that's all.

Your method sounds right. Make sure when you tune your HSN, you ONLY observe top speed operation. Forget how it acclerates. Then go to the LSN and tune for acceleration. Pinch test isn't 100%, but it's a good rough check. I do it.

Sometimes people tune the HSN for all around best operation and wind up with a too lean top end, but good performance elsewhere. That can burn up glowplugs.

rsieminski

I can't even get it to transition to full throttle without stalling, despite adjusting the low speed needle both ways. Then there was plenty of smoke, and it seemed to choke like it was running too rich, so I leaned the HS needle, ...... back and forth all day!!!!! OMG I'm about done with it. They are in the garage on the shelf in their boxes. I might order the backplates, and let them sit till it comes in. Then break them down, clean everything, and reassemble with the new backplate.

rsieminski

Well, I got the gear box that you suggested, and the wand, but it's empty. I guess the gears don't come with it?? There's nothing inside.

Argess

Well......crap! I didn't look at it close enough. Just the case....never saw that before. You need the two gears as well.....they're linked at the bottom of the Tower page on the case.

I'm really sorry.......I do apologize.




ps: I was rereading this whole thread.....back up there when you said you were peaking the rpm with the HSN......no, don't do that...richen it at least 1/4 turn form peak.

rsieminski

Actually i was richening it up a bit, maybe not 1/4 turn though. I've been trying to tune this thing like a plane engine.

rsieminski

Ok, I finally got the parts together. Do you lube the gears with a little bearing grease or oil, or anything?

rendezvous944

I've never has a issue with the recoil starter.

rsieminski

Just lucky I guess.

BigGrump

Seal the engine correctly and use a MC 39 glow plug and you will be happy.

Dennis

rsieminski

I'm asking about the gear box that goes on the rear of the engine in place of that cheezy pull starter. What lubricant do you recommend?

Argess

You can use a very tiny amount of any kind of greaase on gears. The one-way bearing should be kept clean and dry. If you put too much grease on the gears, when the engine heats up, some may melt enough to get into the one-way bearsing, and then it won't work, just slip. You can geet away with no lube if you like, the gears should only turn when starting, after that they shouldn't move much, and even if they do, there's no load on them.

rsieminski

Thanks! Will do.