savagecommander

ok back to perameters-.... why would you raise exh timing only to keep peak HP at the same rpm?...... i think somebody is asking loaded questions... and i cant find a shifty eyed emote otherwise id use it....

savagecommander

well anybody who wants to get bang for the buck on a "crappy" rtr motor is solid gold real estate as far as im concerned..... besides, dont let him push your buttons, he's the engineer- its not in his job discription- [X(]

SLAYERDUDE

Someone a few pges back tole me that "Supertib" should have told me that my K5.9 was crap.
My XL begs to differ.
And I believe that Supertib said a Picco.28 will destroy a XL drivetrain so it's pointless...
And that my 5.9 XL was just fine as both Supertib and Budbud agreed that my 5.9 was tuned and ran good.
If you have a better engine in the XL and want to flaunt it,..
Bring it!!!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_9025847/tm.htm

PowerHouse RC Performance

My Feedback: (1)

Sorry guys, don't take this the wrong way but I have a life outside of this thread so I can't monitor and reply as often as some of you want meto. Alot of times I am at work responding from my phone which is a pain in the ass to begin with so some of you have accused me of back pedaling but when you are typing on a screen that is 2 inches big, have three lines to look at so you can't see what you have already said, you get crossed up a little. Plus throw in the fact that i am a Sheriff and when you get a call on the radio that you have to repond to, you forget where you left off when you return to typing so I again appologize for any confusion in some of my posts. Yes the thread was opened up more so for discussing my work, not bashing it but I am also pleased to see other forms of discussion taking place so as long as things can carry on in an adult manner, thats cool with me. When it gets to what it was before with taking childish cheap shots, then the mod will have to step in like he already has. There is no need for that and not too many people I know want to read 3 pages of grown men calling each other names. The only men I see that do that, end up arrested and hanging out with me watching me respond to this thread on my blackberry

As far as the crank goes, it is a work in progress but yes, it does work, no there isn't really any rebalancing that I need to do as I take out as evenly as I can and most of the cranks I do end up statically balanced better than stock. The rotational weight is moved inward towards the inner race and based on the consistant resukts of rods wearing slower is indicating to me that that theory is working. The blades are actually angled so as the crank rotates, they act as scoops and since I have them angled upward and tapered, they redirect the air, compress it a little and charge the ports. I know that answer will raise some questions, but my experience with building turbine engines for attack aircraft showed me a few things along the way that are in any text books and all you guys have to know is this works and works well. It may seem like it shouldn't but sometimes, certain things will surprise you.

jamminx269

I will say I love your work. I bought a modded os v spec speed tuned with the turbo mod from your factory sponsered racer and friend of mine Eathan from Arizona. I race with him @ the Nitro pit. I must say the results I found to be amazing. Temp never rose above 190 no matter how much I leaned it out and yes was still blowing smoke. Run time was amazing, almost 13 min in my x2 truggy. I just received 2 os v specs which I would like to have the turbo mod done to both. These have about 2 gals on them. Eathan told me to ask about a price. Heres my e-mail jammin [email protected]. Keep up the rocking work. Oh ya do you break these in after the mod is done or is that only neccesary on new engines?.

Thanks,

Steve from Chandler Az

gavin18t

I just want to say thanks to Mark for being available when I need it.  I'm new to RC Cars so its only obvious that i had lots of questions to ask.  I called PowerHouseRC and spoke to Mark about modding an engine and he answered the phone which was "rare" in the mod community.  He even returned a few of my calls which i find very helpful.   All my questions was answered and i felt good that i can reach someone who can help.  Anyway, I got a grp 28 Mod by Mark and i'm very pleased at the results...so far i got 61mph out of it with a novice tune.  I will be taking this car back to the track for more testing...and I'm hoping to see some real good mph out of thing thing....will report back the results...

lez1troubles

Hi Mark, would you consider coming over to Belgium to arrest me please so I can hang around a bit with you and maybe learn a bit more. I'll try and break a couple of laws if that helps, such as driving my buggy at top speed in a 30mph zone and execive noise middle in the night. Thanks.
That way I doent need to send one of my engines to you in the post, I'll just stick it in my pocket.:-)

supertib

That is a good MPH, but what kind of vehicle were you running ?

PowerHouse RC Performance

My Feedback: (1)

JamminX269- I will email you with the details but as as far as breakin, you will only need that if it is new or had the sleeve pinched. I have a break in service available but the cost of that is on top of the cost of the mods. Glad to hear you like that turboed speed I did for Ethan. Thanks for your interest in my services!!

Gavin18T- Glad to hear that GRP is working for you!! That is not bad for a 132ft. run but if you try the things we talked about, you will easily get 70+ in the same distance without sacraficing to much acceleration. I have a guy in florida with a GRP based Ninja .28 set up for speed running that went 68mph stock and now he is up around the 90mph mark. I can't remember what kind of car it is but I believe it was some kind of 2 speed type onroad car. All he keeps telling me is the car is to far away to see properly and it is still accelerating and itis scary fast when it comes by him on power. All I care about is that he is happy with it

lez1troubles- I would love to come to Belgium and it wouldn't be to arrest anyone. I have better things to do likechecking out all the gorgeous women over there and eating some delicious food!!

gavin18t

dm1 spec...

gavin18t

90mph is really fast, I don't want to go that fast but 70mph would be nice. I'll keep you informed on my progress...

supertib

Dm-1 is a big heavy car, its basically a truggy with buggy arms and a 2 speed..... They are relatively slow in comparison to other onroad cars.....They weigh 9lbs plus so they eat up alot of real estate getting up to speed, from everything I have seen the best we can hope for is low 70 MPH with about a 4-500' run.... I have hit 68 MPH with mine in 300', but the car eats up so much area getting to speed I ran out of room...... They are more of a basher car, not really a racer, and definitely no comparison to a true 1/8th racer.........

savagecommander

what gears are you running?

supertib

stock gearing..... no point in changing gearing, I don't have the room to top out the gearing I run, and there is no point in gearing down as I can't hook up the gearing I run.....

savagecommander

so youre hitting over 40K on what kind of motor?

PowerHouse RC Performance

My Feedback: (1)

It sounds like the motor is certainly doing its job if it already hits 61 in 132ft compared to 68 or 70 in 300+. Keep working on it and let us know what you come up with.

gavin18t

You know what you might be right on everything you just said about the dm1. However, its more fun taking a less capable car and making it go even faster and competing at a higher level! For me this is all in good fun and keeps me relaxed when i get stressed....

you ran 68mph in 300'? now what motor was that??

supertib

Maybe its the colder climate here, but I can't get the car to start tracking properly till at least 120 feet out, even then its sideways more then straight.....

62 MPH in 128 feet is very good, not only for motor, but for chassis setup as well..... myself I am barely into full trigger at 128 feet LOL

supertib

I was using a Picco 28.... had huge traction issues tho

not to hijack mark's thread, but here is a link to my car.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGSSyKE3MEE

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBQqxNXTSpw

supertib

I had a ton of fun with my DM-1.... its the first onroad car capable of running on our rough surfaces..... In my city we have brutal winters and very wet summers, so the concrete here takes a beating...so using normal onroads is just not an option...the DM-1 is big and sturdy and does pretty decent here, it has traction issues tho that we haven't quite solved....Maybe its the colder temps or the fact our concrete is made from river stone aggregate not crushed like most places..... Me and my buddies are not going to put mild 3 port offroad engines into ours to make them a little more driveable in the areas we have to work with... the big engines are fun, but we just can't seem to use them to their potential...

PowerHouse RC Performance

My Feedback: (1)

That looks like a pretty cool looking car to play with. If we can some sort of friendly parking lot cone racing somewhere, that would be something I would get into just to go drifting lol.

supertib

they are a blast to drive, but i find the chassis extremely easy to overpower....witht he way he had them this season cone racing is out of the question... we were barely able to drive them one at a time in the lots we have, 2 of us even had D-Box's just to keep them stable........ I am thinking a mild 3 port offroad engine will work well for us here, any more power and you can barely drive the thing....with the 28 i was running I was burning thru tires like crazy, which really sucked !

noginblue

when doing the englargment of exauhst or transfer ports how do you clean up or finish the crome, as you would have to cut into this to get the results you want, is it just dremel the ports and then make sure there are no burs on the chrome part of the linerm also i know it is a question that has lots of other bits to go with it but generally what port would you largen to make more power higher in the rpm range, eg widen the inlet ports/boost ports or exauhst, or move the top of the boost/inlet port up a mil

PowerHouse RC Performance

My Feedback: (1)

I use carbide tungsten high speed cutters for the rough cuts so the chrome doesn't flake and then I use a smooth diamond bit to chamfer the ports th remove all the burrs.

SManMTB

OK guys.

It didn't take long for the arguments to fall back into personal attacks and avoiding answering questions and discussing the topic.
I'm thinking about savagecommander and SLAYERDUDE for the personal stupid comments. PowerHouse never did but yet wasn't able to answer some pretty easy and valid questions.

The last guy here also asked a good direct question about what ports are being modified..... guess what.... yet another non-answer.

Good luck with your business PowerHouse. You have good skills with the dremel but I will not give you my business.