Mickstix

Hey all, Im having a heck of a time with my .18SH engine (Tornado S30) It ran great for about a gallon of fuel, but then started cutting off for no apparent reason. I did an air leak test, cleaned all the carb needles, and replaced the glowplug, put everything back to stock settings, and it still isnt right.. For one it wont idle properly. I have to set the idle rpm's prettyhigh justto keep it running. High enough to where it "creeps" along (If I lower the idle it'll die) and when I run it, it'll do good for a minute, but thenjust die randomly,when I let off the gas.. (Acts like a closed carb/idle screw, I know, but there's over 1mm gap when the brakes are applied, so its not that) Also, when it dies it takes forever to get restarted.. Oh, and it looks like raw fuel dripping from the exhaust pipe.. Note: When it was new the air cleaner fell off a few times while I was running it (on a FL golf course)so Im sure it's at least "tasted" sand before.. But anyway, dothese sound like symptoms ofa used up engine, or should I continue to look at tune or other issues? Thanks for your opinions!

absolutemayhem

those are common symptomns of a wore out motor...better start looking for a new one and save some fustration.

flyingmaniac

I would check the clutch first. You only have 1 gallon through it.... that is about the time you should expect some normal wear. I've seen the shoes worn so bad that the spring was worn through allowing the tooth to drag too soon. The high idle and creep is one clue, then as the engine warms up... it is so worn it doesn't disengage from the clutch bell to let you idle.

Just my two cents... may cost you $8 for a rebuild kit and some locktite

M

Mickstix

Thanks for the info! I'll definitely check the clutch when I pull the  motor.. Would that cause it to shut off randomly though? It'll be running near top end, I'll let of the throttle and it'll die as soon as the trigger is released. (while it's still coasting near top speed)  Thanks again! All opinions are welcome!!

absolutemayhem

if it was the clutch it would still idle at a full speed coast...if the clutch was toast it would not idle and be hard to start......good way to test it(with out taking the motor out) is to hold your car off the ground and try starting it. it the wheels are spinning as your trying to start it it most likley is the clutch.

Mickstix

Yea the clutch is fine, unfortunately.. I just pulled the engine.. Seems like it's got decent compression while its cold.. Once I get to the guts hopefully it'll give up it's secrets.. I'll some pix tomorrow evening, once I get it apart.. Thanks again for the help!

dittch

Most of my high mileage motors would exhibit tuning problems once heated, or simply die, so although your engine only has a gallon thru it, it sounds like it may be time for a replacement. You did mention it had sucked in some sand in the past. Low compression issues really show up when the engine gets hot. You may get a worn motor to start and run fine when cold, but it starts to heat up and things start to expand, then it reaches a point where the piston-sleeve fit isn't tight enough to create sufficient compression and it dies.

absolutemayhem

yeah, if it still has commpression when you just stoped it then you still got a good motor...my motor still got good commpression when it hot and its got 8 gallons on on it.

Mickstix

Well it has "some" compression when cold. Not a whole lot though? I got it tore down and dont see any major issues? Im going to seal it up and see what happens. If it's still a problem Im going to start the process of doing the motor exchange though redcat.. I think I can get a new one for like $50-55 bucks.. ANyway, here's the pix of the pinch. 1st image is where the piston first has resistance.. the 2nd is how far I can push it, w/o using excessive force.. What cha think? Thanks!

Chris_RC

Wow that thing has NO compression!

nitroexpress

The second picture doesn't mean too much because if the rod was connected to the crank, the stroke may not be as high as you show.

theRCreverend

If there is no resistance up to this position then you're in trouble. Get another one

The_Shark

hmm, ive had a .28 force engine run just like his, i gave up on it though.

i got a used jammin jpx .21 that claims it had 1/2 hour on it. well how tight should if feel when you turn the flywheel on the car? im used to .12 so this engines a bit different.

it runs fine and has a crap load of power, very seldomly (3times in 6 tanks) it will, after a high speed rev then a sudden idle (which is pretty normal) stall. but i dont think ive gotten it past 210F

Mickstix

I dont believe very seldom flame-outs mean its used up? Prolly just needsa 1/32 of a turn on one of the tuning needles or something? (Im just guessing really.. But I know on mine, it died every time after a minute or so of running..) It's been pretty cold here, and I didnt get a new gasket for the exhaust yet, so I havent found out if the "seal" job fixed it or not.. Someone said it looks like it has NO compression, and that's about right. Even cold I can turn the motor over fairly easily with my finger via the flywheel.. Im hoping for a miracle, but wont be surprised if its toast.. On the bright side, I did learn how to seal an engine properly, as well as take apart and put back together a nitro motor.. I dont know how guys can get the piston/rod back on the crank with the sleeve installed in the motor though? Mine didnt have enough play, side to side, to let that happen. I had to intall the piston w/o the sleeve first, get it reconnected to the pin on the crank, then slide the sleeve down ontop of the piston.. (I have 10 thumbs though, as well)

theRCreverend

you need a new motor, if you can turn it over easily by hand you're done, and that picture above showing where resistance is first felt supports that more

absolutemayhem

thats no good...that space left showing is where the head botton sits, so that p/s is done.

Mickstix

Uh Oh.. Another vote for "toast".. It should get warm enough to fire up and see here in a day to so.. I'll be sure and post the results!!

xjqkz

You must know the course attendant for him to let you run a nitro powered car on a golf course!!

Mickstix

Nah, the course goes through my back yard though, so I dont have to walk past the clubhouse or anything to get there.. Plus Im only out there about 15 minutes before dusk, so I usually dont see anyone and on the rare occasion that someon's still golfing, I make sure to stay in "my" yard.. One evening a guy came over (on a golf cart) to check it out, and said they were seeding the greens and not to run on em', but I dont run on the greens anyway.. I said "If ya leave a rake out here in the bunker I'll rake it when Im done" and he said dont worry about it, they have a machine that does the bunkers every morning.. So, Im good to go.. There's some big mounds and stuff about 50 yards or so up the fairway, off to the side.. Once I get the Monsoon broke in that's prolly where Im gonna check out. Just need to make sure the airfilter is up to the task.. The stock one on my Tornado kept falling off when I first got it, and Im sure that's why the pinch is already gone in it.. There's sand everywhere around here and being a newbie to Nitro, I didnt know just how illergic these motors are to sand.. But I know now!!

xjqkz

put a ziptie on the air filter and it won't come off, you'll have to cut off the zip tie to get it off

theRCreverend.

if you can freely push the piston as high as you show in the picture then you're done, time for another motor. It should never go that high with no resistance.

vpower

well it could be the fuel your running i also have a redcat its the tornado bb 2speed and it has a sh .18 engine on it and ive already ran 5 gallons trough it and it still runs fine. i first started to use maxy's fuel then switched to oddonel because oddonel were i buy it is only 23 dollars (plus tax) the only ting i seen wrong is that the motor tends to be very low on power. it is super slow only 55mph and looses every time in drag racing[]

Mickstix

Yea, someone mentioned the piston is all the way at the top of the sleeve, that the button on the head fits down inside the sleeve the few mm's that are left.. So it's prolly toast.. Still too cold to take it out and find out for sure.. To the poster about the fuel, I've only tried Traxxas 20% but I dont think that's the problem. As I said before, when I first got it the air filter fell numberous time, and there's sand everywhere around here, so it had some sand go through it Im sure. My tuning was always on the conservative side, since I was only bashing and noone to race with.. Seemed plenty fast though, while it was healthy? Didnt get a clock on it, but it was fast enough that I couldnt control it very well.. If it starts cutting off again, Im going to do the motor exchange with Redcat.. I believe it's only $50-55 and my old motor, for a brand new one.. Cant beat that! (As long as this doesnt become the norm.. I didnt even get a full gallon through it..)

vpower

when you get a chance to run it try a good oddonnel 20% fuel

Mickstix

I ran it yesterday.. Fired right up, idled fine, excellerated a little slow (needed tuning) got it tuned and did one full pull down the driveway and it cut off.. Pulled and pulled and finally got it restarted, did another pass and it shut off again.. So, it's toast.. Let this be a reminder to any newbies who just get into nitro.. Make darn sure the aircleaner is secured to the carb, and if you happen to notice it has falled off, stop the motor immediately!! I ran mine on a golf course here in FL, and the aircleaner used to fall off under the body, and I wouldnt be able to see it.. I'd run in the sand traps and apparently it ingested some sand and as a result, the pinch is gone with not even a full gallon of fuel run through it.. So, be careful in sand or harsh environments, keep your air filter cleanandoiled properly, and again make sure the aircleaner housingis properly secured to the carb!!