kregan

To cut through the balsa sheeting. The side frame is at an
angle 4degree +/-. Once the sheeting is glued on you need to
align the side fram to the motor box and cut the hole in the
balsa at 4 degree.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

I see. You were losing me there for a minute.

kregan

Got a lot of little stuff done in preparation of
assembling the motor box to the fuse sides.

I plugged the motor box holes with balsa around
the pipe tunnel. I trimmed and sanded the side
frames after the sheeting was complete, cut out
the rudder servo locations and the dowel hole
location for the stabs.

Now this is were it got a little ugly.... The first
hole I drilled in the sheeting for the wing tube
ripped up the balsa pretty good on one side.
I had to cut out and scab in a piece of balsa
to repair the hole.

On the next side I upped the speed and basically
burned my way through the sheeting to make a
nice hole.

I am just about ready to start gluing the fuse sides
in place.

kregan

One modification before I glue the side frames to the motor box.

Adjustable incidence....

It has been in the back of my mind since the start of the build.
Pattern planes have it on all 4 wings and I see no reason why
our planes shouldn't do the same thing at least for the big wings
in the front.

I have used Dave's idea of a 3/8" x 1/2" birch anti rotation pin
on his main wing and designed the simple adjuster to fit that.

It weighs .8 oz. ready to mount. 3/8" square birch rails with
a machined piece of HDPE, 6/32" adjustment screw and a music
wire guide/anti rotation bar.

The mounting bolt holes for the main wing will be slotted just
enough to allow the main wing to rotate +/- a degree or 2.

kregan

Change of plans... Fully adjustable incidence
on all 4 wings!

After looking over the plans and and the fuse
sides I can fit a pair of the adjusters in the
rear if I reduced the size of the adjusters a
little.

The adjustment screw for the rear stab will be
accessible from the optional lower hatch cover
shown on the plans.

After drawing the adjuster in CAD I did a little
production run. The adjusters are now smaller,
the music wire guide post was replaced with 1/8"
aluminum rod, and the overall weight is now .6 oz.

Mark786

Kelly,
Cool idea. I thought you had your wing attachment bolt pads in a little early.
I am in the process tonight of setting incidence and cutting the ply pads into the wing root.
I have decided to use (2) 3/8" dowels for alignment just fore and aft the existing wing bolts.
Mark

DMichael

My Feedback: (5)

Hey Kelly- great idea.

as722

My Feedback: (1)

I've been thinking about this and even drew up some ideas but have not done it yet. Great idea, it should work great.


Albert

kregan

I finished building the incidence adjusters, added some extra
3/8" x 3/8" square balsa were needed and glued them in place.

I then cut all the 3/8" parts and pinned them to the plan. One
thing I was not real clear on was how to measure and cut the
cross bracing on the bottom of the truss sides, (bottom is up
in the pictures) so I made duplicate cross bracing when I cut
the lower ones that are pinned to the plan.

I plan on clamping a straight edge to each side of the truss sides
before gluing the cross bracing in place.

Then I did it, pulled the trigger and epoxied the motor box to truss
sides and glued all the upper cross bracing.

DMichael

My Feedback: (5)

Lookin' good.

If I might make an observation- I really like the wing adjusters. I would have preferred to see them mounted flush with the rest of the 3/8" square truss assembly so that it's as close to the wing/stab as possible.

Dave

kregan

The ones for the stabs are in the same location the
plywood ring would be glued in right ?

The main wing... I thought about gluing it to the
sheeting but it would have been more dificult to
repair or replace hardware that way in the future
if need be.

Do you think 3/8" x 1/2" birch will flex over a 3/8"
span? Or do you think the extra 3/8" leverage will
make the dowel move inside the foam wing?

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Hard to say if it will flex. If your careful with the drill, maybe you could drill a hole into the center of the anti rotation blocks, into the foam and then add a piece of solid, round carbon fiber. That would stiffen it right up and would be easy to do. Love them adjusters. You should maybe make some extras and sell them to us.

DMichael

My Feedback: (5)

You are right about the stabs. I'm not saying that your setup will be a problem- I just would rather see it as close as possible to eliminate any potential flexing. The square hardwood won't bend- but it may place some additional forces on the foam.

Also- don't forget that since my wing bolts don't move, the wing bolts are also taking the load and supporting the wing from rotating.

I don't forsee that your setup will be a problem- perhaps just not optimum- the wing and stab hold on bolts are a backup anyway- even if they do move a little, it won't cause any kind of situation where the plane won't fly.

Again- I'm not sounding any alarms on this- just making an observation.

kregan

First fuse is off the table.

DrDeath

My Feedback: (3)

So, is this Kurts, Yours or mine

DrDeath

My Feedback: (3)

Forgot to tell you, Dave let me fly his Radiocraft. It was pretty windy last Sunday, but, Me like, Me LIKE!!!!! Who wants to buy a slightly used Aeroworks Extra 260 with a BME 50 in it?

DD

kregan

Money shots!

First one is Kurt's, Second one is DrDeath's.

kregan

Now let me back up and answer some posts...

MrBigg:
I will post the cad drawings for you, it is really simple
to make.

Dave, or should I call you alarmist?
How deep did you go into the main wing with your
dowel?

Just an FYI for everyone:

I don't plan on hogging out the wing mounting holes to
allow the wings to move up and down the entire range
of the incidence adjusters.

My idea is to set the initial incidence at 0-0 and then mount
the wings (drill the guide holes) like everyone else. Only
after trim flights would I slot the mounting bolt holes (just
a tad) if the incidence needed some slight adjustment.

Mark786:
I thought I was supposed to glue the wing attachment pads
during the side truss construction, then drill the holes when
the wing was set up ? Was I supposed to wait?

Everyone:
Eliminating the balsa strips under the top and bottom deck.

I read in a lot of build threads that people were leaving the 1/16"
balsa strips off the bottom of the sheeted foam part to eliminate a
joint/seam on the fuse side. I also read a lot of post saying they
don't understand why it is on the plan to begin with.

I almost did the same thing but something told me Denis from
Carden would not have added this in the plan for no reason.

Today while cutting the 1/16" plywood gussets it dawned on me
why these strips are important.

You will notice that around the canopy area people have added the
plywood gussets for strength (pictures in my next post). O.K., but
what about the rest of the joints on the top and bottom of the fuse?
No gussets, why?

The strips of balsa on the foam.... they tie all the cross bracing
together just like adding a gusset. By eliminating that strips of
balsa on the upper and lower deck you have eliminated all the
gussets. Now the foam forms the the gusset's on all those joints.

I am not saying anyone has done anything wrong, I am just giving
my opinion as to why those strips are included on the plan and why
I think they should be included.

BTW
I glued the balsa strips on first and then sheet the foam, this eliminates
the extra joint on the fuse side.

kregan

Pictures...

Money shot - wing tubes, plywood gusset's the easy
way and preparing the second motor box.

I remove the cented drill from a hole saw and
cut 1/16" plywood circles. Devide the circle in the
center. Cut them in half and cut out the 3/8" slot.

as722

My Feedback: (1)

Kelly you are correct about the 1/16" bottom "cap" on the turtle deck. I actually glue them on first before sheeting the turtle deck to eliminate the extra seam.

Albert

DMichael

My Feedback: (5)

Kelly- The square anti-rotation piece extended approximately 4" or so into the wing root- and that's probably overkill. Most of the force is taken up near the root.

rc4flying

My Feedback: (21)

I also do what Albert has said here. Other then a wood grain appearance difference, you can't see a joint. I also glue 1/8" balsa on the edge grain cut balsa that is used on the vertical stab seat. This allows for a sanding finish that once again leaves no tale-tale sign of an edge grain. Gives a very smooth finished look.

If you look close at rudder being mounted you can see the balsa strip glued to the edge grain seat.

BBW Walt

My Feedback: (11)

I also do what Albert has said here. Other then a wood grain appearance difference, you can't see a joint. I also glue 1/8" balsa on the edge grain cut balsa that is used on the vertical stab seat. This allows for a sanding finish that once again leaves no tale-tale sign of an edge grain. Gives a very smooth finished look.

If you look close at rudder being mounted you can see the balsa strip glued to the edge grain seat.

Hey Joe: Well I'm an old dog that just learned a new trick. You and I gotta set back and talk building sometime, execellent idea, thanks, Walt

kpm

Kelly,

Lots of reading for me to catch up on in here. It is nice of you to document your work so carefully. It is very informative to actually see all that goes into to building one of these. Thanks

Mark786

Kelly,
The wing bolt pads are some of the small detail I spent a lot of time worrying about. Wanting to make sure I didn't get something in the wrong order. (I worry about the small stuff)
It won't matter since your using adjusters but the instructions say to get the square pads in the root rib and then bolt the pads in place while setting the incidence. That allows you to move them to the perfect location before glueing. The only enlarged hole would be in the sheeting. In your and my case since we will have ovaled or enlarged holes it won't matter so much.
Mark