as722

My Feedback: (1)

I use a scroll saw to cut all the lighning holes, tape the two sides together and cut both of them at the same time. As for the spinner. I would leave a 1/4" gap from the back plate of the spinner to the cowl. Keep in mind that because of the right thrust the propeller can hit the right side of the cowl if not spaced right. If you haven't glued the firewall yet you can build in the right thrust in to it.


Albert

DMichael

My Feedback: (5)

I'm enjoying seeing this go together. Way back when, when Carden first started selling this plane, one of the guys at my field built one with a D&B 3.7. JR 4131 servos. It was only like my 2nd year of flying and I couldn't stop drooling over it. Guy was a first rate builder- just an awesome, awesome plane. He let me fly it one day and I couldn't believe how good it flew. Up til then I had never flown such a large plane. I was hooked. My next build was a 1/3 scale laser scratch built from Ulery plans- and I've had three Cardens over the years.

I remember him saying that he would be upgrading to the 4721's that were just coming out. I thought he was crazy to put so much money into servos.

hmalcom

Doug,
Looks like you are "into" building the Carden. I appreciate the updates. I bought mine (30 % Extra) used and it quite heavy but, it flies very good. Landings are a challenge for me because it is heavy. All the lightening you can do will pay off.

Moving the wing up will give a bit of strengthening to the wing tube mounting. I've had to reinforce this area on the low wing version.

Something else to look out for is the firewall mounting scheme. I'm building a new one from scratch and trying to lighten and strengthen, but my tendency is to add something that probably isn't needed.

Keep up the good work,

Harry

80stars

A scroll saw eh, I guess that brand new saw my father-in-law got two years ago (that is still sitting in its box) will find a new home in my shop. I haven't glued the firewall yet so I will take your advice with setting the thrust, it has always work well on my other models, thanks Albert. Here is a dumb question, on all of my nitro models the back of the spinner and thrust plate of the engine were basiclly the same point. This is my first gasser, does the back plate of the spinner on a gas engine align in the same maner?

Thanks guys for your help, please check back often I will have more questions.

I had to do it, I couldn't wait. So I dry fitted the fuse to see how my new location for the wing tube would align. Just the way I wanted, all square and all level, whew! After having a cold beverage and admiring the fit I pulled it apart, cut some lightening holes in the gear plate, and glued it in with cross trusses. By tomorrow the main box of the fuse should be solid and square and I can work on moving aft with the cross trussing. By the way, NO those are not extra wing tube holes throughout the airframe, my forstner bit just makes the perfect clean holes for lightening.

Doug

80stars

Thanks Harry, I am having fun.

80stars

-17 temps last night and only warming to 1 above today will give reason for anyone to want to stay in and build. I dry fitted the truss stress plates and wing stress plates again to be satisfied with fit and then epoxied them all together. After checking all was square and level, left it to dry (how many clamps can you count?).

The instructions want me to fit the turtle deck before installing cross trussing from F5 back to the tail. That means I need to start some sheeting and set the fuse aside for a few days. I plan on installing balsa caps on foam edges prior to sheeting to give a nice seamless finish.

Doug

80stars

More pictures

80stars

Couple more, I need to change the res on my camera.

80stars

Hmmmmmmmmm.............

as722

My Feedback: (1)

This brings back memories, the first one of these kits I built was in 1991 just after I graduated from high school. If I was to do it today it would have a 50cc engine and the lighest accesoriesI could find, it would be great at 18 pounds or less.


Albert

as722

My Feedback: (1)

How are you planning on finishing the side of the fuse where the wing would've went, balsa sheet ?


Albert

zzw26n

My Feedback: (45)

Great job Doug .......... looking real good!

Neilbo4

any idea where I could buy one of these 30% Carden 300's these days?

E2 Hobbies

My Feedback: (2)

Hi, I'm looking for users who are Tower Hobbies Members. I lost my Members only flyer which had the discount codes for December/January. Tower pulled the pdf from their website yesterday and replaced it with a new one, and took the codes away. The codes are olny valid for few more hours and I am hoping someone out there can help me out and pass these along to me.

Thanks for your help,
Eric

as722

My Feedback: (1)

Right here, would you like one covered in the patty scheme and ready for paint never flown or would you like a kit with the invoice from 1991 still in the box ?


Albert

zzw26n

My Feedback: (45)

Neil,

Get one of Alberts, he'll make you a deal.

Neilbo4

Hey Albert,

It's funny we talk on both flying sites...I would like the kit from 1991 still in the box. How much do you want for it?

as722

My Feedback: (1)

I'll send you a PM.

Albert

80stars

Good question. Nothing goes on the inner truss side as per plans and I beleive the truss stress plate will now make a good plate for the root to butt up against. As far as the outer skin side, I am looking at a semi complex job of making the balsa clam shell sheeting accomodate the new root location. I think what I will do is just edge full sheets of 1/16 balsa for both sides where the clam shell covers from F2A back to F5A, then locate the new wing root. If I use the precut clam shell side that has the root profile as a template then cutting and matching should [:@] go OK.

My big hang up right now is deciding what will make the cleanest way to incorporate a single removeable hatch. The clam shell side uses the floor of the perment cockpit fooring as an adhering edge and support. And due to a difference in height between F3A and F4A making a clean single line for the hatch is a challenge. In addition to that, the clam shell side and stringer/truss side below the aft portion of the canopy might make for an ugly place for hatch mount tabs and screw.

I was thinking I would extend the side rails for the canopy through and into the forward hatch. I was expecting to glass the canopy and hatch together anyway so this would strengthen this join nicely. If I install a couple of hard points in the lower front edge of the trutle deck with cutouts, then I could continue the side rails into it acting as tabs. Doing that method would allow me to keep the single hold down screw located through the top of the front hatch. I could then retain F4A which is the cockpit floor for shape, but remove most of the center material to lighten.

If you have been down this path with a good solution I am all ears

80stars

ARF

Now if I could just keep those pesky house elfs away from my work.

Doug

as722

My Feedback: (1)

I would get rid off the plywood plate used on the hatch now and build it like the current 40% 300 with a 3/8 square frame. You can place the foam front piece on top of the frame work and install a 1/4 " balsa former behind the foam top piece for the canopy to sit on.

Here's some pictures of my 300, hope this helps.


Albert

80stars

Albert,

Funny, I just finished downloading the same photos from your 300 build thread. Great stuff, I will do it. Question, did you cut the canopy rail back so the canopy would sit flush with the sides? or just build with smaller stock for offset?

80stars

Albert,

If I set the foam front hatch on top of my frame then I will be 3/8 high to my cowl. Would you suggest I terminate the frame rail into the foam hatch instead or possibly remove 3/8 along the outside edge prior to sheeting and then sheet right over the 3/8 rail to hide.

Doug

as722

My Feedback: (1)

I would run the rail the whole length. You can use the router attachment for a dremel tool and cut some of the foam out to allow for the rails.

as722

My Feedback: (1)

The easiest way to do it is to pin the rails to the fuse using a scrap piece of the canopy as a gauge and attach the mounting tabs to the rails while the rails are on the fuse for a perfect fit.

Albert