Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

New here and to RC cars. Bought a new Matrix and I'm having some problems.

1. Got the car running and started driving around slow on pavement. The car started stalling at about 1/4 throttle.......it would just shut off like you had hit a kill button. The car did this several times. I assumed it was a problem with the plug. Checked plug....looked good..... but I put in a new one anyway. Same problems with stalling occured. The car became harder and harder to start a which time I realized I had run my igniter down ending my day. VERY FRUSTRATING!
Any ideas?

2. What should the needles be set at for break-in? The manual (if you could call it that) doesn't have this info...or much else for that matter. It doesn't even tell you which of the 4 srews on the carb do what. CENs website has a general FAQ but nothing specific. VERY FRUSTRATING!

3. With the engine not running and the radio on, my throttle servo keeps twitching. Is this normal? Can I fix it?

4. I noticed air bubbles going through the fuel line. Is this normal or does this mean I have a leak somewhere? Maybe causing the stalling?

I've had this car for a month and it's only run 1 minute. I first had to order connectors to make the battery....reciever.....and charger match. All three were different. Now the troubles with stalling. Again you guessed it...VERY FRUSTRATING.

Any help you folks can give would be much appreciated. Thanks.

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

While I don't have a Matrix, I do have a Nemesis. Should be not air bubbles in the fuel line. When I got my Nemesis it had the same problem, air in the fuel line. I replaced all lines, fuel and pressure line, and haven't had this problem since. The low speed needle is the one on the carb slide. Right where the serve pulls open the throttle. The high speed needle is right next to where the fuel line enters the carb. Not sure if this is exactly the same on the Matrix, but most carbs are like this. Not sure about the break in positions. On the servo twitch, they should not twitch with the motor off, or on. Try setting the trim on the transmitter. Also check the end-point adjustments, as you don't want the servo constantly tugging on the linkage when the throttle slide, brake, etc. is already open all the way. Hope this helps. Let me know if you have more questions. I'm fairly new to this stuff also, but learning very quickly.

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

Thanks Ing. I checked the fuel lines and saw that the line that goes into the tank had maybe a small hole near the end. I don't know if it was big enough to pull air but I trimmed off that part anyway. We'll see how things go tommorow......I'm going to try to get in some break-in runs.

I tried to adjust the trim on my radio both directions but it still twitches......not sure why.

My slow needle came from the factory at about 2 turns out from full in. Again I have no idea if this is right. Hey CEN RACING how 'bout a little help here.

I'm assuming that the slow needle adjusts like the fast needle and that going IN will LEAN the mixture. Is this right?

Thanks.

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

Yes, in will make it leaner. High speed needle affects the whole range of running, so high speed needle must be adjusted first, then low speed needle. Which ever servo is twitching, try setting you trim to the middle of the range, and then take the screw out of the servo (the one that holds the arm to the servo) and place it back on with no load on it. Pull the arm off, then set trim so it does not twitch, then replace arm and center screw. There is a link to a new CEN sponsored website in one of the recent post. I've had better luck getting answers on there. Try giving them a call. Very friendly and responsive. Plus you've got their undivided attention. Hope this helps.

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

Utah,

The cars are suppose to come from CEN with the break in settings in place, not sure if thats true or not. You will have stalling during the break in, but no to the extreme that you have described. Try giving CEN a phone call, or PM them here.

Thanks
Tiny

www.webshoponline.us
Access code: guest

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

i had the same stalling issues during my breakin also. this continued until the engine was at or above 200* until breakin was complete. i wasn't able to get around it by leaning or richening the settings, i just had to deal with it. i'm sure it has alot to do with the pinch and rich settings needed to lube the engine during breakin. i also had to leave my ignighter on the car until the temps were around 200*. are you pulling off the ignighter once the engine starts? if so, then the plug is most likely getting cooled off by the incoming full and your seeing what is called flame out.

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

***UPDATE*** O.K. First off my beef with CEN. I left them a message saying I was having problems with my new car. That was friday morning. They haven't called me. NOT COOL!!

Today I took my car to a hobby shop 1 hour from here, the closest one. They helped me for about an hour for free, even though I have never bought anything from them. VERY COOL!

Their resident car guy tried to program the twitching out of my throttle servo. While it seemed to help a little, the servo still twitches all over the place.....like it has a mind of it's own. It now goes to full throttle for about 10 seconds when you first turn on the reciever....then settles down a little. One of the reasons I bought this car was because the magazines raved about the servos and I was glad I wouldn't have to replace them soon. I think CEN should send me a new servo........what do you think?

I got the car started and decided to try tashpop's suggestion of leaving the glow heater on. That cured the stalling and I was able to run about a tank through. I'm wondering if this will damage the glow starter. It's a Dubro EZ-GLO.

Stll looking for the stock or break-in needle settings...........anyone?

I'm going to take my car to a school parking lot tommorow to see if I can get 3 or 4 tanks through.

Thanks everyone for your help........and keep any suggestions coming.

~~~~~~~NATE~~~~~~~~~~

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

hey,just a tid-bit of info. if you dont want your matrix to end up in the wall, dont run it until you get the servo issue taken care of. we bought our martix and the servo twitched just like that. after about six tanks of break in, the throttle servo went to wide open and smashed us into a wooden fence! after that, the servo would go to wide open every time you turned the truck on. we replaced it with a jr that i had in my box and no more servo trouble.

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

rcberetta I agree. Someone from CEN contacted me today and told me to send in the servo for repair. I'll give them a chance to fix it first before I buy another servo.


~~~NATE~~~

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

Utah:

Sorry about the late reply. HEre is the operating instruction . As far as the servos, send it in and we will send you a new one :)

Matrix Starting Instructions
Please read carefully before operating.

Contents of Matrix RTR 1/8 Buggy
· 1x 1/8th scale Matrix RTR 1/8 Buggy
· 1x Airtronics MX3 FM Transmitter
· 1x Painted and Decaled Body
· 4x Hex Wrenches, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm 3mm
· 1x Instruction Manuel
· 1x Packet of Optional Pistons
· 1x Packet of Shock Preload Spacers

Required Equipment to enjoy your new CEN Matrix nitro 1/8 Buggy:
1. High quality Nitro fuel with nitro 20-30% percentage
2. 12 alkaline AA batteries (8 for transmitter, 4 for receiver pack)
3. Flat head screw driver to make carburetor adjustments.
4. 1x 1800 mAh Glow Ignitor w/Charger
5. 1x 6 Way Glow Plug Wrench
6. 1x 500cc Fuel Bottle

Please follow the steps below to prepare, start and break-in your nitro engine. If you have any questions at any time please give your local CEN authorized retailers a call or E-mail us at [email protected] for technical support.

Step 1. Charge Glow Ignitor
The nitro engine requires a glow ignitor to light the glow plug when starting the engine. The ignitor takes approximately 12 hours to fully charge. You should always make sure the ignitor is fully charged when starting your engine.
Step 2. Install 12 AA Batteries
The transmitter and receiver pack both need to have batteries installed into them before doing anything else to the buggy, eight batteries in the transmitter and four batteries in the buggy. If you start the buggy before installing the batteries, it may run away from you. You may use NiMh or NiCd in addition to alkaline batteries. Be sure to completely charge rechargeable batteries before installing.
Step 3. Check your Fuel
Make sure you are using proper high quality fuel with the correct nitro percentage (20-30% Nitro). Fuel that is left in an open bottle will go bad quickly. Always keep fuel in an airtight container.
Step 4. Install your Air Filter
Some models may already have the air filter installed. If yours has not, find it in the box and install it onto the carburetor. It comes with a zip tie to use to secure it to the engine.


Step 5. Standing your Antenna Up
Insert the antenna wire through the antenna mount, through the antenna tube, then insert into tube mount. The antenna wire may be longer then the tubes, if so, DO NOT cut the wire. Let excess wire hang freely
Step 6. Turning on your Transmitter
ALWAYS turn on the transmitter first, followed by the receiver. Never turn off the transmitter or the reciever while the engine is running. Always turn off engine first then the receiver, followed by the radio.
· Remember… You should always turn the transmitter on first and turn it off last.
Step 7. Check for Proper Operation of Servos
With the transmitter and receiver all turned on (engine not running), make sure your steering, throttle and forward/reverse servos are working correctly. Make sure when you turn the wheel on the transmitter left the wheels turn left, and then check the right side. When you pull the throttle trigger the carburetor should open, when you push the trigger back the brakes should be applied. If your servos are moving / responding slowly, you need to check for weak batteries.
Step 8. Checking the Transmitters Range
Before driving your buggy, test the range of your radio system. Walk away from the buggy to equal the furthest distance you plan to drive your buggy. Make sure all the servos operate correctly. Do not operate the buggy if you notice any transmitter problems.
Step 9. Filling the Fuel Tank Up with Fuel
Using your fuel bottle, squeeze the bottle and insert it into your container of fuel, Let go of it and the suction will suck the fuel into your fuel bottle. Next lift the cap on the tank and fill of up with fuel.
Step 10. Prime the Engine with Fuel
To prime the fuel system, put your finger over the exhaust outlet on the exhaust pipe. Pull the pull cord a few times and watch for the fuel to fill the fuel line. Stop once the fuel reaches the carburetor. * If you notice the fuel line is not priming, you may need to open the carburetor to allow the fuel to flow through.
Step 11. Starting the Engine
Do not start the engine until you have read and understood all the directions. By starting the engine you have indicated that you have checked the transmitter and servos ECT. for proper operation. With transmitter and receiver all turned on, attach your fully charged glow ignitor onto the glow plug. With one hand holding the glow heater, use your other hand to give the pull starter quick short pulls. (Pulling the pull start cord too far will brake the spring inside and void the warranty) The engine will start much easier if you hold ¼ throttle on the transmitter.
Step 12. Keeps the Engine Running
A new engine may not idle smoothly until it’s correctly broken in
(Break-in procedures found in step 14). Use the transmitter to keep the engine reved up just enough to keep it running. If the engine stalls you may need to raise the idle slightly.
Step 13. Proper engine break-in is very important to achieve the highest possible performance and reliability
Allow yourself some time to properly break-in the engine. This is one of the most important steps to follow so take your time. Do not run the engine at high RPMs until it is completely broken in. It is usual for the engine to stall, run inconsistently, and even foul glow plugs during the first couple of tanks. If this is happening to yours, don’t worry about it too much. It is a normal step in running any nitro powered R/C car. All of this will go-away after your engine is broken in.

Step 14. Break-in Procedures
To begin break in procedures for your new engine, simply idle 3 tanks of fuel. Allow the engine to cool down completely between tanks. On the 4th and 5th tank start driving the buggy around slowly. On the 6th tank start leaning it out and making final tuning adjustments. After the engine is broken in, good starting carburetor settings are:
Top End – 3 & 1/3 turns out
Mid – ½ in from flush
Bottom- 3 ½ - 4 turns in from flush

* These settings are approximate due to the differences in climate, fuel nitro %, and fuel oil %.

Step 15. Running the First Tanks in the Buggy
By now you should have fully broken in your engine. Hopefully you took your time and broke the engine in correctly. When driving the buggy drive it on flat smooth surface like the street first. Make sure that your steering trim is adjusted correctly and that the buggy tracks straight. There is also a dual rate adjustment for the steering. This will adjust how much steering throw you have. (How much the wheels actually turn)
Step 16. Engine Tuning (adjusting the high-end needle)
Now your buggy and engine should be up and running well. The overall performance of the engine is determined by how lean you run the engine. The “leaner” the engine, the faster it will go, and the hotter it will run. You want to find the point where it’s running very well with lots of power, but not running too hot. If you don’t see a light stream of blue smoke from the exhaust it may be to lean. You then need to richen up the top end. (Screw with brass sleeve around it) All of the engine adjustments listed above is not certain because of variations in type of fuel, brand, %nitro, humidity, elevation, ECT. Engine life is varies on the operating temperate. Preferred engine temperature is around 220-240’F.

Step 17. Fine Tuning low-speed Mixture and Idle screw.
The low-end needle should be close to correct setting at 1 ½ turns in from flush. The best way to check the bottom end adjustment is by listening to the way the engine idles. If the engine idle rises the bottom end is lean, if the engine idle drops its too rich. When making any needle adjustments make sure you do it in small adjustments.

Step 18. Installing the Body Clips
Align the holes in the body with the body mounts. Then install the pins through the holes in the mounts. You may adjust the height of the body by lowering body clips.

Step 19. This is the most important step of all
Drive your new CEN Matrix. Have fun and drive safely. Show your model the same respect as you would driving your full size vehicle.

Steps to follow after operating.

Step 1. Burn all the fuel out of the engine by keep the engine running until the engine will not start.
Step 2. Take the glow plug out and put a few drops of after run oil into the engine. After run oil is available at most hobby shops.

Precautions that Must be Taken
· Because there are electrical components on the buggy it should not be ran through water, wet grass, mud or anything else that may get water inside the electronics.
· Avoid leaving the glow heater on the glow plug any longer then needed to start. The heater will burn the glow plug out if left on too long.
· Do not drive the buggy when your radio is showing low battery voltage.
· Do not drive your buggy at night, on public streets, or in large crowds.
· Do not drive if the servos are slow or unresponsive, this usually means your batteries are low, replace with new
· Always use common sense when driving your Matrix 1/8 Buggy. Abusive driving will only result in poor performance and many broken parts.
· User accepts full responsibility for the use of this product.

Most common mistakes made by beginners:
1. Most beginners pull the pull starts out too far and bend the spring. Pull the cord no more then 8 inches out. If you get to the end of the cord you will bend the spring and it will not recoil correctly.
2. Avoid pulling the pull starter if you engine is flooded. You know your engine is flooded when the cord becomes very difficult to pull. To get excess fuel out of the engine simply remove the glow plug and turn the engine upside down. Give the pull starter a couple of pulls and excess fuel will come out.
3. If you leave your glow heater on you glow plug when you not trying to start it the glow plug will burn out very quickly. Only put the heater on when you’re ready to start the engine.
4. Make sure you unbundled the antenna wire and stand it up using the supplied antenna straw.

General information

High-end Mixture Controls the fuel mixture at high R.P.Ms

Low-End Mixture Controls the fuel mixture at low R.P.M.s

Lean This term is used to describe the amount of fuel entering the carburetor. Lean means less fuel. Turn carburetor needles clockwise for a leaner setting. Running too lean will damage your engine.

Rich Setting This term is used to describe the amount of fuel entering the carburetor. Rich means more fuel. Turn the carburetor needles counter-clockwise for a richer setting.

Glow plugs CEN engines come standard with a CEN G70429 glow plug. You may also use most standard or short glow plugs. Always make sure you are using the copper washer that is supplied with each glow plug.

Air Filter The air filter is very important to an engines life. Keeping it clean and oiled will increase performance and engine life.

Pull Starter When removing the pull starter be careful with the spool, which is spring loaded. Use a small screwdriver to gently push the spool off the output shaft.

Roto-Tech Starter CEN Racing offers a Roto-Tech Starter (G70358) for the NX.26 engine. CEN recommends you don’t install the starter until you have properly broken in the engine.

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

Thanks for the reply CEN Racing.

"Bottom- 3 ½ - 4 turns in from flush"
"The low-end needle should be close to correct setting at 1 ½ turns in from flush"

These two statements don't really agree with each other? Which is it?

I think it would also make more sense to give the low speed setting in "Turns Out" from lightly seated as with the other needles.

Just for reference my car came from the factory with the low-speed needle at 1.5 turns out from full in.......which is about 7 turns in from flush.

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

The reason you don't want to use the seated measurement for the low end needle is. The seated distance changes when the idle setting is changed. If the idle is set higher the needle is further away from the seat. This is my opinion.

RE: Help a noob out with Matrix?
 

Hmmmm maybe. When you screw the slow adjustment all the way in till it stops I don't think what you are feeling is the idle screw though.

All that aside I still don't find the "flush" method very accurate......seems like everyone would have a different idea of what "flush" looks like.

I guess this all could have been avoided if my needles would have been correct from the factory. As they were it seems that they were lean enough to cook the engine. Guess my anal retentiveness comes in handy once in awile.

Nate