Junk Room Desk - Current State... Pics now...
 

Ok - I was gonna save it. But its got too boring in here recently.

Wheres all the dremel frenzy modding gone? Cmon guys - pull a finger out!

Azzman had a surplus of OS engines, so I gave him a hand sorting that problem out. Thanks mate, no complaints so far - how small is the P/S??? - and hey if Id remembered to actually pay customrccars, then maybe theyd have posted the other tranny parts to me too... on their way now... doh.

I found a complete centre diff from a Hyper 7, with a spider diff, brakes and linkage for a good price - US not UK, so gonna be a bit before it gets here. But it looks nice.

Ive gone for the cen steel 47 & 44t spurs from customrccars and the 14/17 steel bell. I want the hpi 11/14, but ebay is hopeless, as are my fairly lhs`s...

Could do with cens 1st gear alloy hub, Im really struggling on this one, so any help is appreciated here. Part number is G84302-04. Ill email customrc and see if they can get one or two for me. Only other things I need are a savage header and a decent pipe (ie 2060) to compliment the motor. ;)

The purple chassis is the centre diff, as u know, and is up and running, albeit a bit manic.

Bollox - cant upload pics...:eek:

Aha - now I can...

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hey PJ.... I see a clean spot just to the right of the lamp..... looks like you can fit another engine or tranny there to work on....I can't leave my work area until its spotless or the wife will have a fit... I won't send any pics because you'll think I'm a neat freak, which I am not.... Anyway, I love what you are doing with the cars and I have used alot of ideas from you and the rest of the guys.... last night I finally put in the aluminum clutch for the mt2... t-maxx ones work great and rebuilt the diffs... I also had to replace the left rear t-maxx modified axle which twisted from the "stress" of the os 18.... took about 10 minutes from start to finish on that... eyeballed everything including drilling new pins in... will run thursday or sunday... found a new paved parking lot... should be good... My custom rccars order came in today, so I now have plenty of fresh gears and pinions.... :D

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LOL PJ that desk looks a lot like mine...

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Its all gonna get moved to a room above the garage as soon as I get my act together/finish the kitchen/front room/sitting room/bathroom... etc etc who invented houses anyway? Bleeders.

Gutted i forgot to pay customrc - damned drunk purchases. I wanted the bits asap, lets see how they get on with postage - I only paid them tonight tho...

Anyone heard any good reports on tuned pipes other than the OS 2060 for the OS.30?

Im determined to break it properly this time round.

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You will have to get yourself a firemans pole to slide between CEN and Honda. I will have a little hunt around and see what pipes are recommended for the .30. Are you looking for top end or acceleration?

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Hey PJ, Nice mess!!!!
I'll give you $200.00 to pack it up and another $20.00 the send it to......ME!!!!!!:D:):D:)

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HA HA thats funny right there..................... 205 and 21:)

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keep going guys...

cheers Scouser, i guess going for a high rpm/hp pipe is best as ill have a long manifold, whatever way i do it. maybe the pipe will compensate a little for that... maybe not, but i cant see the point of spending the extra on an os 2060 if i cant have a sensible manifold length to start with... im keeping an eye on ebay, theres a few interesting bits there for peanuts. bits need to be cheap - 60k service is due on the crx. doh.

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Keep your eyes peeled for an RB TM01 pipe. They come as silencer only and won't cost the earth. It was designed to bring the best out of the RB TM728 engine. I have one on the Savage and I am using it with the K4.6 engine. Seems to be pretty good so far. There is also a new pipe from Hong Nor, I think it is called the 094. The only problem with that one is that it comes as pipe and manifold, so you would be paying extra for something useless.

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cheers mate - manifolds are fine if theres a chance i can use it or part of it, especially if its cheap enough. ive seen a couple of the 094 pipes too.

ive still got the pipe off the 28, but its a bit worse for wear - ahem - but its something to gauge the engine by i suppose.

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The space to the right of the lamp is for the beverage of choice.

Have you looked at the Ofna pipes? So far I haven't been dissapointed with them.
http://www.ofna.com/pipes-18.html


rolland

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lol, funny thing is... ur absolutely right rolland!

i have been looking at those pipes too, they look nics and substantial, which is good... but i dont want to spend a lot on something that wont perform well due to the long header.

i mean, im unsure just how much performance is lost/moved in the powerband, but the layout is less than ideal for top performance, so is there any point in buying pricey performance bits? (ahem...os30...ahem...doh, whoops... ahem)

ill just keep a lookout for a good deal on something used/ebayed i reckon.

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sorry mate - missed ur post.

thats just no excuse at all - lets see the cleanliness and the flaming can begin! lol, would like to see ur tmaxx shaft setup and whatnot, as i remember thats a very clean and tidy truck u have there - show it off mate!

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I'll try and take some new pics tonight as well as the axle shaft setup for the mt2.... currently I have broken the left rear cvd pin 2X... I put a hardened pin from a hex driver in there.. its a little tight but should free up.... I have twisted two axles so far, but they are easy and cheap to replace... says alot for the os18..... much more power than the stock 2.5r t-maxx motor... In all fairness to the axles... they were both donated from a t-maxx by my neighbor who runs full mip cvd's now...

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that the thing with the plastic shafts, mate - they save a bit of wear down the line in the drivetrain due to their flexiness. but once in a while the tyre grips hard or whatever and u get a twisted shaft. it still works, but its not right, and for peanuts, u can have a pair off ebay. cool for the price eh? [8D]

gotta say tho - i want to try out ofnas hyper 7 hubs and shafts on a mt, as they look identical to a swift setup as rolland fitted to his truck. it would give me some much needed space to soften the front end up. its too stiff depite real soft springs and fluid, due to the angle of my shocks... more space for the shafts and shocks on full lock would give me some more options.

anyone able to try the ofna shafts and hubs? or shall i be the test dummy again? :) swift parts are a little hard to come by, and if the ofnas fit, then we are laughing.

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It is kind of hard to find Ofna parts in the LHS's around here but from what I have seen they should work. I believe the Kyosho parts will work also. I know that the CVD's for the Ofna and the Kyosho are the same as the Swifts but I haven't seen the diff cups and the knuckles.
From what I have seen there isn't that much of a parts difference in the 1/8 scale buggy's with the pillow ball suspension.

Schumacher makes the Swift now. Their site is down at the moment but here is there address,
Schumacher Racing Products Ltd. 71-73 Tenter Road, Moulton Park, Northampton, NN3 6AX, England
http://www.racing-cars.com/


rolland

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cheers rolland mate, u are the man!

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I actually have the MUgen CVDs and hubs. I haven't fitted them yet but i think they should be fine.
As rolland said most buggies use more-or-less the same pivot hubs and CVD lengths.
BUT the pivot ball is a problem. Ofna and Mugen use a 6mm thread on the arms. CEN can only take 5mm so the Swift pivot balls are the answer (same ball diameter but only 5mm thread).

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nice one thanks for that. especially re the pillow balls.

ive been looking at the buggy stuff and they do seem pretty generic. just didnt want to have to buy some to see if they fit.

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I used T-Maxx pivot balls in my conversion. I had to do some creative shimming but it works fine.



rolland

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Ditto. just used some spare shock piston ends and all is good!

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i thought about that after i posted, as im using tmaxx pillow balls, obviously, with the tmaxx hubs... cool, so thats one less thing on the list!

thanks guys

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Just make sure that when you modify the buggy diff cups you take it slow. It is really easy to take to much off. Modifying the cups is the hardest part of the swap the rest is straight bolt on stuff.


rolland

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will do, cheers.

still gonna be a little while before its sorted and running again - too much on at the mo im afraid. still, im tinkering whenever i get the chance.

i was hoping to use an ARO chassis for a .30 centre diff setup, but i dont think poor Tony realised just what he was in for with a newborn - poor lad. give him a decade or so and he may be able to find the time and money to continue - kids, whod have em...?

meanwhile... ofna spider diff, mounts, linkages and brakes are here now, still no 2 speed tranny bits from customrccars tho. struggling for space on the chassis layout too. going to have to go back to a single tank, i have room for something larger than what i have, so will have to go looking around for something suitable if im going to stick with a centre diff in this one that is. im leaving my options open at the moment tho - if the 2 speed bits where here, i would have built it back up... nevermind, im sure theyre on the way.

wont let me upload pics again, so had to [img][/img] link to it im afraid.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-...24(Medium).JPG

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The new baby is taking up quite abit of time but he is working on it as much as he can.
All he has to do is finalize the design and start cutting so don't hack up the JT chassis yet, try to save it for your rally or you might want to use Tony's chassis for the rally. I have a rally waiting for the chassis myself.
Judging by the work he did on the towers it will be worth the wait.



rolland

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Figure Id best keep updating to avoid any hijack issues - all RCU memberships should be carried in a clear plastic bag please guys...

Steel 47/44 spurs turned up with a 14/17 steel Cen bell. Spurs are not as light as Id like, but feel lighter than the Genesis setup, but not much.

Waiting on an email back for the ebay fun - its a Schumacher Swift, Ive been offered it for a good price, so long as he didnt relist it while I was at work today, jobs a good un... Hoping to use the relevant parts for the shaft conversion, check out the shocks etc. If the MT and the .30 destroy themselves, at least I got a cheap buggy. Equally if it does work out ok, then I can part it out and recoup most, if not all my money. Cant lose... :eek: Buggy is complete btw, minus radio gear but it is brand new. :D

Ill take the spurs and bell to work tomorrow and do a hardness test on them, see how they compare to the other bits I tested out.

Savage header is on its way also. I might have put a bid on an alloy pipe too... not sure, will check... damn beer...

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I am using Swift shocks on my MT2. If you do the shaft mod you will need to limit the down travel on the suspension or it will bind on the larger diff cups.

By the time you scavenge all of the cool parts off of it, it might not be worth selling. You might want to try running it first before you part it out. I don't know if you have ever driven an 1/8 scale buggy but you should try it out while it is still in one piece.

What were the results of the hardness tests?

rolland

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Its my intention to run the .30 in on the buggy, and see how I like it before butchering it. Going by the way the FF drives with 1/8 buggy wheels, this could well be the car for me. Or it would be if the ebay seller would send me the photos he has promised. Nevermind, Im looking at a lightly used Ofna Ultra PBS instead, hopefully most relevant parts are generic... fingers crossed!

No hardness meter at work! Ive been through the vans, checked all round the workshop, stores, offices, and I cant find it anywhere. The mechanical one that we have isnt working right either, so its on hold til someone gives the working meter back Im afraid. Most annoying - I wanted this up and running with minimal casualties... It is starting to look pretty though with these new bits and whatnot, Ill bung some more pics up when I get them bolted on.

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Will have the hardness meter tomorrow...

Couple of pics of what fiddling Ive done. Gone for some bracing on the chassis and following on from the top plate to the brake seat. Took me the whole of a half hour. Its only thin 10x10 aluminium angle, but hoping for the "strength in form" thing to work. That and a bit of 8mm round alloy bar across the shock towers should do it.

Getting a bit frustrated with the header tho. I simply wanted a straight, .21+ sized header. Just 1.25" long will do - but no, they all bend off one way or another, yes, Ive looked at hundreds of em. You can see what I mean in one of the pics that shows where the savage header needs to go to meet up with a shortish OS pipe thats on its way. Pipe will be mounted "backwards", obviously, but it gives a much shorter header length than my last Heath Robinson effort.

Oh - the Ofna tank that digout used on his truck - I cant find it anywhere online. The part number is 17067 and is listed as an Ofna 90cc fuel tank. Its that long skinny one, maybe from the Pirate(?), was called a "Racing Tank" by digout if that helps... Any help is much appreciated on this one, pretty please.

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he fooled you... It's 75cc

http://www.ehobbies.com/ItemDetail.d...NNO=B0006O7PK8

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Cheers, just been rummaging the net - man, how pants is Google? Rubbish it is.

Anyway, thats the fella alright Dustin - Ofna 17067 or HoBao HT067. I just ordered one from evolutionhobbies.co.uk or something... only place I could find with them in stock.

Just the header to sort then... looks like Im gonna have to cut the flange off my .28s header and stick that to a bit of pipe.

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I remember trying to find it before because I was going to get one. Then I found out it was only 75cc, so I never did get one.

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The ofna pirate 10 tank is 90cc that came with a hyper 21 engine. The older style one for the small blocks were 75cc and is shown in the dustin attachment. Ofna sometimes upgrades but kepts the old part numbers. I have included a pic of my latest Cen Magnum truck with a big block mod (.21 Vertec). The original battery box was reconfigured for slide linkage clearance and an Ofna Monster Pirate tank was installed. Check out the new Red Cat wheels and tires. 1/8 scale tires on 12mm hub wheels that are lightweight and inexpensive comparatively.

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NICE!

Could you please let me know what it is you did to get your battery box like that?

I struggled with figureing out the slide linkage for a long time and ended up with a little cramped tmaxx reciever box and a rear mount batt box...

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Looks like a cut n shut job on the battery box.

Thats a point... battery box? Pah! Have zip ties, will use em!

Nice looking truck digout, good to see you didnt hang about with that Magnum. How are you getting along with the driveshafts? I presume you have done the diff cup mod too?

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annnnnnd.... I completely forgot.

Took a few bits for comparison.


Hardness readings:

New Funfactor 47T steel spur - 380HB
New Funfactor 44T steel gear - 320HB
Genesis spur 39T - 600HB
Ofna centre diff spur 46T - 500HB
Funfactor heavy duty diff gear 1 - 580HB
Funfactor stock 13T diff gear - 400HB


Here are the readings pasted in from the last time I took some bits in.

Cen Genesis Spur Gear (43t) - 540
Cen FF Heavy Duty Diff Gear (43t) - 600
Cen Genesis Pinion (21t) - 340
Cen FF CVD (Outer part) - 520

Ofna Ultra 2 speed Pinion (15t) - 500
Ofna Hyper 10 Pinion (15t) - 400

Stock Tmaxx CVD (outer steel part - not the plastic part!) - 400


So, if I can get the one way bearing out (and back in again) I will try to get the Funfactor spurs treated so they are as hard as the Genesis spurs, and run them on the HPI 11/14 bells which are yet to arrive.

And yes I know it looks like a load of nonsense and overkill, but if you had spent as much as me on spurs and pinions... jesus, it doesnt bare thinking about.

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The battery box was made by just cutting off the top as shown and gluing in a piece of flat plastic the same size of the cutout. Dill new holes for the switch. Yes, it could have been done by a cut/fold/shut work with a little extra skill. An alternate way to allow space for a slide carb linkage is to use the pirate 10 receiver/battery box. Also attached is a comparison picture of the two ofna pirate (75 vs 90cc) tanks. I have not done the diff cup mod yet since they have never broken. When they finally do break, i will use the SS thin tubing for the fix. Hopefully the new Magnum designs are as strong as Cen claims.

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I would have thought that they would have been around the same hardness as the Genesis spurs. That is a disappointment.

What method of hardening are you going to use?

Please keep us informed of the results.



rolland

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Bummer eh Rolland?

I will speak to our mechanical testing guy re the hardening, but I expect he will just say to quench them. Same goes for the hpi pinions when they arrive - Im aiming for 5-600 for both the pinions and the spurs - maybe a little softer on the pinions.

Nice pics Digout. Man, I hope theyve sent me the later tank...

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I had figured that if they spent the time to CNC machine them that they would have been alot harder than they are. But since they only sell alloy pinions and really soft steel pinions I suppose that they didn't feel the need.

You will want the pinions a little softer than the spurs. One of the two are going to wear and it is cheaper and easier to replace a clutch bell.

Let us know what the testing guy says, I have access to quenching and surface hardening materials and supplies. So either or both is a possibility.

This is the fuel tank that I am using and it is just a little bit longer than stock.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBM24&P=7



rolland