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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

Old 07-16-2002, 08:15 PM
  #26  
Kirk-RCU
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Default MISHAP ----------- OUCH.....

When I moved on to the next step, I had trouble understanding the instructions on pages 14 & 15. I'll be posting that as soon as I get in my NEW parts!!!

YEP, you guessed it, I messed up some parts!!!

When I started working on the lower frame, the instructions are confusing!!! IT just does not seem LOGICAL to do it the way the instructions say?? (I'll be posting a copy of that page when I get the new parts in and finish the page).

PLUS, the instruction say to take the RIGHT side (R), I would assume the (R) means there is a R stamped somewhere on the Right side frame??? But there isn't!! WELL not that I could find???

So I picked up what I though was the Right side and started working one it. WELL, it was not the Right side, it was the LEFT side and when it came to putting in the Fuel Tank, I forced it and as a result, BUSTED a hole in the tank.

So I called Helicopter World and ordered a new Tank. IT should be in Thursday!! (along with my servos!!) So if you do not see me posting for the next few days, that is why!!

See Photo.

Any Questions???

Yours,

Kirk Voclain
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Old 07-16-2002, 11:20 PM
  #27  
optech
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

Damn!!! You should have said something earlier! I have a few extra tanks. I'd have sen't you one for free.

Mike

Btw.... Someone said that the "main shaft thrust bearing" upgrade replaces the the radial bearing in the side frames.... WRONG!!!! the thrust bearing assembly rides in same spot, and replaces, the current mast stopper underneath the radial bearing. It augments the radial bearing as the thrust bearing will not support the main shaft in side-to-side loads by itself like when doing a roll or a back flip.
Old 07-17-2002, 12:04 AM
  #28  
Trace
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Default POST #25

Kirk,

You need to back up a couple of steps. Take a real close look at the upper bearing block and the large diameter washer. The upper mast stopper is riding on the washer not the inner race of the bearing in the bearing housing so any lifting force on the main shaft is pinching the mast stopper against the washer against the outside of the bearing housing. The reason the fellows earlier were stating put the washer on top of the bearing, is because the washer is actually a bearing SPACER and goes in the bearing seat with the bearing, placing the bearing in the bottom of the bearing cup in the frame. That way, the neck of the mast stopper reaches up through the lower hole to physically contact the inner race of the upper bearing without touching the housing at all. That is how the vertical thrust load is transmitted from the main shaft into the side frames.

Hope this helps.

Great review, keep up the good work.
Old 07-17-2002, 12:58 AM
  #29  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

Correct me if I'm wrong but I seem to remember that the washer in question has a very large inside diameter. So much so that I thought at first is was an O-ring. The shank on the mast stopper is pretty tall and will fit through the washer to contact the bearing inner race. So, I don't think it matters where you put the washer as long as its in there.

Mike

PS... I went back and looked at your pic with everything sitting in the upper frame half. It kinda lookes like you have the washer sitting on the mast stopper which is butted up next to the bearing cage. If I recall, the washer needs to be IN the bearing cage with the bearing. Its a tight fit but it keeps the upper bearing tight in the cage. What I really don't understand is why Century doesn't just retool the mold to eliminate the need for the washer in the first place???
Old 07-17-2002, 01:06 AM
  #30  
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Default Be careful, the tail links are 2mm not 2.3

Kirk
Be careful, Isaac reversed the control rod diameters. The t/r control rod is 2mm, the others are 2.2 or 2.3mm.

The t/r control rod comes with its own weird long soft ball links. Use them on the t/r rod. You will know them because they're the only ones made of this weirder softer plastic.

The other ones all are of a different type with the 2.3mm holes.

Picked all these tips up and more at runryder.com on the century forum (they've actually busted us out from the combined electric, bergen , etc category).

Good luck!
Nick
Old 07-17-2002, 01:17 AM
  #31  
Isaac F
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

Be careful, Isaac reversed the control rod diameters. The t/r control rod is 2mm, the others are 2.2 or 2.3mm.

This is what I post:

The Falcon Tail Rotor Control Rod is 2mm and the others Rods are all 2.3mm.

I dont know were is my mistake

Isaac
Old 07-17-2002, 01:27 AM
  #32  
ncostes
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Default Washer goes above the bearing

Oldfart on runryder (Phil) made it clear the washer goes ontop of the bearing, not under it (this was in response to me asking the same question). Also -that's the way my first hawk IV arf was assembled - that tipped me off for my 2nd kit. You may want to double check that as it seems you currently have it below the bearing.

-----------------------------------

The instructions say for me to put it above the Mast Stoper. But as you can see in the photo (GREEN ARROW), the picture shows the washer above the bearing.

But I did as the instructions said (RED ARROW), I put it above the Mast Stoper.

----------------------------------
Old 07-17-2002, 01:30 AM
  #33  
ncostes
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

You told him the ones with the Century logo were 2mm and the ones without the logo were 2.3. It is the other way around.

Originally posted by Isaac F



I dont know were is my mistake

Isaac
Old 07-17-2002, 01:42 AM
  #34  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

ncostes

Be careful, Isaac reversed the control rod diameters. The t/r control rod is 2mm, the others are 2.2 or 2.3mm.
In your post you talk about the ROD............You never mention BALL LINK

Isaac
Old 07-17-2002, 02:09 AM
  #35  
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Default Washer Issue -- This is strange!!

OK I'm posting a copy of the the page where this "Washer" issue is discussed.

YOU will notice (circled area) that it clearly say for me to put the washer on top of the mast stopper and below the bearing.

BUT the picture show it going on top of the bearing.

I certainly do appreciate everyone clearing up this issue for me, but it is a bit strange to me that the company does not change this in the instruction book???

I guess most people don't actually READ the instruction book, but just look at the pictures

OH well, from now on I'll take the advice of the pictures instead of the printed instructions.

Any questions???

Yours,

Kirk Voclain
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Old 07-17-2002, 04:27 AM
  #36  
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Default washer

Like OPTECH said above it really shouldn't matter whether the big washer is on top or on bottom as long as the mast stopper doesn't touch anything but the bearing race and the main shaft. The point that matters is that the washer goes in the bearing seat or cup with the bearing sandwiched between the frames otherwise the drag created between the washer and the mast stopper during an autorotation could make for a real interesting landing.

Phil Noel is a Century rep in Canada and he informed most of us that the washer is supposed to go on top that's why we are saying it.

Good luck,

Trace
Old 07-17-2002, 01:57 PM
  #37  
Philip
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

Old 07-17-2002, 03:59 PM
  #38  
syclic
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Default Falcon SEV2 Assembly

Hi Kirk,

A few more comments.
1) Spacer - As in my first post, I said its location above or below was not critical but suggested that you follow the diagram and put it on top of the bearing. This will insure the mast stopper flange pressures the inner race of the bearing. I failed to mention (as pointed out by Optech and Trace) that it has to be inside the molded upper bearing seat with the upper mainmast bearing.

2) You mentioned in one of your steps that your starter shaft was binding a bit. Once you have both upper frames together you can adjust the two start shaft bearing blocks for a very smooth operation by loosening the four screws that attach these blocks and moving the shaft and blocks until the shaft smoothly disengages from the down possition. Then tighten the four screws to keep it in place.

3) Lower frame assembly - Generally in all helicopter instructions "right" or "left" means relative to the pilot if he would be sitting facing forward in the cockpit.

4) Tail rotor pushrod ball links - The ones with no Century logo an them are for the 2mm T/R pushrods. The ones with the Century logo on them are for all the other control rods.

Keep up the good work - well done.
Old 07-17-2002, 04:06 PM
  #39  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

Syclic!!!!

Thanks for those post!!! I've re-installed the washer in the correct place and NOW the mail gear turns sooooooo much smoother.

MY tank will be tomorrow, so I'll begin the project again.

Thanks everyone, I can't imagine doing this without a resource like this.

Yours,

Kirk Voclain
Old 07-19-2002, 03:02 PM
  #40  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT -- Page 14-15 -- Engine, Fuel Tank, & Lower Frame

OK, I got my tank in yesterday, and last night I finally got the lower frame finished.

At first I was upset that I had ripped a hole in my gas tank and had to order another one, but now that I look back on the situation, it was the best thing that happened. WHY??? WELL because it gave everyone time to view where I was in this project, and post some of the mistakes I had made. Such as the washer issue that I just discussed.

OK, page 14 was a breeze!! Basically all I did was assemble the fan, and then stick it on.

The instruction and the pictures on page 14 clearly show me removing everything from the front of the engine except for the washer that rides over the bearing. But when I went to tighten down the fan assembly, it stopped where the engine shaft widens. But it did not take me long to figure out that it stopped only because it's such a great fit.

BEING I had to order another fuel tank, I went ahead and ordered the optional CN2154 Machined Throttle Extension. Ohhhhh it's pretty!!!

Here's the link to page 14: CLICK HERE

There were no errors, or mistakes on this page.

OK on to page 15 which is where I ran into trouble the last time. THIS time I said to myself: "...SELF (that's what I call myself), DON'T force anything!!"

I'm a step one, step two, step three kind of guy!! And on page 15, this is where I ran into trouble. The instructions tell you to do a whole bunch of things, then it mentions to install the muffler, then the tank and based upon the pictures, I figured I was supposed to do all this as one big step.

For example: IT tells me to attache the Right lower side to the upper frame, attach the engine shroud, and then attach the engine to the right side. All the while telling me to use thread lock. WELL if you do that, then the fuel tank doesn't fit, so you have to take the engine off to get the fuel tank in. Once you do that, it then tell you to attach the muffler. But to get the muffler screws into the engine, you once again have to take the engine off of the lower side frame.

Anyway, I did get it all together, it took some patience, but I got it. OH, that ENGINE SHROUD is a real bear to get on too. TAKE your time and don't force it, but at the same time you will need to put a little pressure on it.

The only thing missing from the kit so far were 4 M3x7 washers that I am suppose to use to attach the lower frame to the upper frame. It was not big deal, I just went to Lowe's and for .97 cents I got 6!!! That left me 2 extra!! Oh by the way, they are for sale so if you want to make me an offer I'm selling the 2 washers for only .10 cents a piece, but don't forget to add the shipping cost <GRIN>

Any Questions????

Yours,

Kirk Voclain
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Old 07-19-2002, 07:41 PM
  #41  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT -- Page 16-18--Servos, Landing Gear, Rotor Head.

Finally, FINALLY!! This thing is starting to look more and more like a helicopter!!!

The next few pages were a breeze!! EASY, EASY, EASY!!! I almost let my little girl do it for me (ALMOST).

The only thing that was a little strange is that there were NO instruction to tell me to put together the Anti-rotation Bar, JUST A PICTURE.

So, I has taken me a while, but I'm starting to learn you have to LOOK AT THE PICTURES BEFORE YOU READ!!! It's no big deal, just that I'm used to doing it the other way.

NEXT comes the tail rotor!!!

I'm moving right along. But this weekend, I need to get some flying in, SO it's looking like I'm not going to be making another post till Monday.

Happy flying this weekend.

I will be checking my email, so if you have any questions or comments, PLEASE POST THEM!!!!

ONE MORE THING, I'm starting to understand the concept of "NO SLOP" now that the Swash Plate and Wash OUT is in place. When you TWIST on the Swash Plate, it doesn't move, it's solid as a rock!!!! AGAIN, unlike the NEXUS that moves when you breath heavy on it.

Any Questions???

Yours,

Kirk Voclain
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Old 07-20-2002, 06:50 AM
  #42  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

Kirk,

From talking to Century, it was explained to me that in step 15, the M3X7 washers (refered to in the text, but not in the pictures) are missing because they are not required. I was informed that the the next revision of the instructions will not have them in the text. I understand that they are a leftover from the Hawk instructions which have a plastic lower frame and require them. As the Falcon has a metal lower frame they are not required.
Old 07-20-2002, 03:47 PM
  #43  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

rotordoc:

I thought about that, but being the instructions, and the picture told me to use the m3x7 washer, I figured it was necessary.

Thanks so much for clearing that up.

Yours,

Kirk Voclain
Old 07-22-2002, 05:12 PM
  #44  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT -- Page 18-23 -- Tail Rotor

I hope everyone had a great weekend of flying???? I know I did.

So on with the project.

Page 18 ends with me putting the landing gear on, and begins with the assembly of the tail rotor. I found that the tail rotor was super easy to do!! NO errors anywhere in the instruction book on these pages.

Step 28 had me JB weld a locking ring to the back of the Tail Pitch Plate Assembly; I thought this was a nice touch to make sure this piece does not come apart.

Again, the instruction book is for both the Hawk and the Falcon, thus many of the steps on these pages I simply skipped over because they were for the hawk.

When it came to putting the Tail Rotor Grips together, once again I pulled out my gram scale. EACH Tail Rotor Grip weighed in at exactly 3.5 grams each. I also weighed the Tail Rotor Blades, the ball bearing, then nuts and the screws!! EVERYTHING was the same except for one tail rotor. IT WAS only .1 gram off from the other. I took some fine sand paper and scrapped off some of the excess plastic from around the rotor blade, and then I weighed them again. This time they were perfectly the same.

In step 31, when it came time to put the grips, thrust bearing, and blades (step 32) on, before I attached the Steel Tail Rotor Hub to the Tail Rotor Drive Shaft, I put the completed assembly on a blade balancer (airplane type), and it was perfectly balanced right down the center.

Step 34B was a little tricky, getting the Torque Tube Drive Shaft put into the exact spot, but I took my time and it went together perfectly. Don't neglect to use a little soft soap to help push it through like the instructions suggest.

Finally, I'm most impressed with the Bell-crank Assembly. EVEN this moving part has 2 ball bearing on it. AGAIN, my Nexus has plastic rubbing against plastic.

Any Questions????

Yours,

Kirk Voclain
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Old 07-23-2002, 09:06 PM
  #45  
Jerry Sigur
 
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

Hey Kirk,
You probably already know this but
there's an online manual for your heli at
http://www.centuryheli.com/manuals/h...nSE/index.html
cya at the field,
Jerry
Old 07-23-2002, 09:11 PM
  #46  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

JERRY!!!!!!!!!!!!

Gang let me introduce you to the best flyer I know!!!

Jerry, I did know that, that is were I've been getting the images for the instruction book. I've just been shrinking them and adding pictures to the side and making it fit RCU specs.

Yours,

Kirk Voclain

PS: Jerry is NOT one of the OLD FARTS at our flying field that I have been talking about.....HE one of the GOOD FARTS.
Old 07-24-2002, 05:50 PM
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT -- Page 24-31 -- Putting it all together!!

Well I'm almost done!! On the following pages I found no errors, and it was very simple and basic to follow.

BASICALLY, all I did was put it all together.

Myself personally, I don't really care for the sticker pattern on the canopy, but I did it like the instructions suggested. IT'S NOT THAT bad, but then again, it's a good reason to get a fiberglass canopy and have it custom painted!!!

IF you will notice in the picture, I went with the tail rotor servo on the tail. I also has an extra carbon push rod, so I put that on instead of the one in the instruction book.

Tomorrow, I have the day off, and I'm going to do some really cool pictures of it once I get the RX installed and it's ready to fly.

Flying pixs probably will not come till this weekend when I can give you a report on how it flys.

I ALMOST CAN'T WAIT!!!!!!

Any Questions???

Yours,

Kirk Voclain
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Old 07-24-2002, 07:17 PM
  #48  
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Default Lookin Good

Kirk,
Looks like it's coming along. Question:

I have the KSJ Universal Boom mount setup for the tail rotor servo. It sits the servo up higher to the boom than the one you have. Did you have any problems with the CF pushrod clearing the boom supports like I did?
Old 07-24-2002, 07:23 PM
  #49  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

IF it would have been 1 MM higher, I would have had a problem. But as it sits, the CF pushrod does not touch anything and moves freely.

The Boom Mount is the one I bought from Helicopter World, part No. CN 2239C

Yours,
Kirk
Old 07-24-2002, 08:00 PM
  #50  
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Default Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project

Can I fly it Kirk?
J/K
:-)

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