Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project
07-12-2002, 07:09 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project
Well first off I would like to once again take my hats off to Helicopter World for doing EXACTLY what they said they would do.
I got an email from them with the tracking numbers and just like they said, I would get it today, I did get it today!!!
IT came packed very well and nothing I ordered was backordered or missing. I have not inspected the kit yet, so I can't tell you if anything is missing from the kit yet???
When I opened the box, I noticed that everything was packed up nicely in 3 big boxes. And in each box was a sealed bag with a number on it. 1-7 numbers!!! VERY nice and organized.
JUST flipping through the instruction book, I've noticed that there are a lot of pictures, this I like. AGAIN, beyond flipping, I can't tell you anything else.
Here a picture of what I got today.
Any questions???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
I got an email from them with the tracking numbers and just like they said, I would get it today, I did get it today!!!
IT came packed very well and nothing I ordered was backordered or missing. I have not inspected the kit yet, so I can't tell you if anything is missing from the kit yet???
When I opened the box, I noticed that everything was packed up nicely in 3 big boxes. And in each box was a sealed bag with a number on it. 1-7 numbers!!! VERY nice and organized.
JUST flipping through the instruction book, I've noticed that there are a lot of pictures, this I like. AGAIN, beyond flipping, I can't tell you anything else.
Here a picture of what I got today.
Any questions???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-12-2002, 08:23 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project
I've got the OS 50, and I bought a crash kit that came with some woody blades. I plan to use the woodies for the first few flights, then I'll put the Figer Glass one's that came with it on.
Servos??? I'm not sure yet???
I only have the digital one for the tail that matches up with the 502 gyro.
BEYONE that, I'm looking for suggestions.
Kirk
Servos??? I'm not sure yet???
I only have the digital one for the tail that matches up with the 502 gyro.
BEYONE that, I'm looking for suggestions.
Kirk
07-14-2002, 12:55 AM
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The Falcon SE II-- Finished Page 4
OK, the project has begun!! I started by reading all the TIPS and Tricks that the Mfg. puts at the beginning of the instruction book.
I FOUND some of the tips basic, but some of them were very Handy, and GREAT SUGGESTIONS!! So I strongly suggest you read them if you build this kit.
AS I opened bag No. 1, I noticed that there were bags within bags, and the within those bags were more bags.
This seemed strange to me until I started reading the instructions. I noticed that if you opened a plastic bag, and pulled out a part, all of the parts that pertained to that area of the instructions were inside separate bags.
I found this to be EXTREMELY helpful!! I did not have parts all over the place wondering, "...is this a 3x7 ball bearing???" or "is this a 3x6 screw??" ETC.
With that in mind, I STRONGLY suggest you purchase a set of calipers. MEASURING those tine bearing to make sure you have the correct one sure was easier with a set of calipers.
Next I found the instructions on page 4 very easy to follow, and also well written.
The only thing that seams a little strange is the the instructions are for both the Falcon SE II and the HAWK SE II. Thus you will notice on the institution picture that I attached, there are some instructions for both.
I'm sure the Mfg. does this because it saves them time and trouble.
ONE Error I found (highlighted) is that the bearing cup does not have to be secured into the offset plate. This item is all one METAL part now (SEE ACTUAL PHOTO ATTACHED). YOU still have to insert the bearing, but the cup and the plate are all in one.
NOW, this again my be different for the HAWK??? But then again, I'm building the Falcon.
Enjoy the pics.
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
I FOUND some of the tips basic, but some of them were very Handy, and GREAT SUGGESTIONS!! So I strongly suggest you read them if you build this kit.
AS I opened bag No. 1, I noticed that there were bags within bags, and the within those bags were more bags.
This seemed strange to me until I started reading the instructions. I noticed that if you opened a plastic bag, and pulled out a part, all of the parts that pertained to that area of the instructions were inside separate bags.
I found this to be EXTREMELY helpful!! I did not have parts all over the place wondering, "...is this a 3x7 ball bearing???" or "is this a 3x6 screw??" ETC.
With that in mind, I STRONGLY suggest you purchase a set of calipers. MEASURING those tine bearing to make sure you have the correct one sure was easier with a set of calipers.
Next I found the instructions on page 4 very easy to follow, and also well written.
The only thing that seams a little strange is the the instructions are for both the Falcon SE II and the HAWK SE II. Thus you will notice on the institution picture that I attached, there are some instructions for both.
I'm sure the Mfg. does this because it saves them time and trouble.
ONE Error I found (highlighted) is that the bearing cup does not have to be secured into the offset plate. This item is all one METAL part now (SEE ACTUAL PHOTO ATTACHED). YOU still have to insert the bearing, but the cup and the plate are all in one.
NOW, this again my be different for the HAWK??? But then again, I'm building the Falcon.
Enjoy the pics.
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-14-2002, 07:29 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT -- Page 5 -- Main Grip, Feathering Spindle.
OK, on with the project!!!
I've never built an RC Helicopter before, an besides the Falcon, the only other helicopter I've ever owned was a NEXUS.
WELL the FALCON is NO NEXUS!! I am continually impressed with the precision of this helicopter. IF there is a moving part, there is a bearing on it helping it to move more smoothly.
I have a gram scale and I decided that I would weigh everything that pertains to the rotary head, esp. were there are two things like Blade Grips. The Main Blade Grips weighed in at precisely 20.8 grams each. This impressed me that they were EXACTLY the same. I was prepared to have to do some shaving to get them to weigh the same, but I did not.
As far as errors on Page 5, there were only 2 minor errors. The 8x13mm washer was actually a 9x13mm washer (no big deal). And the instruction book referred me to page 30 when actually I should have been referred to page 26.
The only problem I ran into is highlighted with RED ARROWS (see photo). When I installed the 3x16 Socket Cap Screw into the Bell Mixer Arm and into the Blade Grips, the Socked Screw came out the back of the Blade grip a little.
When I installed the Blade grips onto the Feathering Spindle, the Cap Screw that was sticking out caused a little binding at the extreme top and bottom ends of movements.
So to solve this problem, I used my Drimel Tool to grind down the Cap Screws till they were flush with the back end of the Brade Grips. I then re-checked the weight of each Blade Grip Assembly and they were still perfectly even and the same.
Also, I was most impressed with the fact that when it came time for me to install the Thrust Bearings into the Blade Grips, I noticed that they were tied together with a little string. This saved me from wondering, "...which way does the Thrust Bearing face?" And I'm sure it saved me from some excessive wear because of possible installing it wrong.
Any questions???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
I've never built an RC Helicopter before, an besides the Falcon, the only other helicopter I've ever owned was a NEXUS.
WELL the FALCON is NO NEXUS!! I am continually impressed with the precision of this helicopter. IF there is a moving part, there is a bearing on it helping it to move more smoothly.
I have a gram scale and I decided that I would weigh everything that pertains to the rotary head, esp. were there are two things like Blade Grips. The Main Blade Grips weighed in at precisely 20.8 grams each. This impressed me that they were EXACTLY the same. I was prepared to have to do some shaving to get them to weigh the same, but I did not.
As far as errors on Page 5, there were only 2 minor errors. The 8x13mm washer was actually a 9x13mm washer (no big deal). And the instruction book referred me to page 30 when actually I should have been referred to page 26.
The only problem I ran into is highlighted with RED ARROWS (see photo). When I installed the 3x16 Socket Cap Screw into the Bell Mixer Arm and into the Blade Grips, the Socked Screw came out the back of the Blade grip a little.
When I installed the Blade grips onto the Feathering Spindle, the Cap Screw that was sticking out caused a little binding at the extreme top and bottom ends of movements.
So to solve this problem, I used my Drimel Tool to grind down the Cap Screws till they were flush with the back end of the Brade Grips. I then re-checked the weight of each Blade Grip Assembly and they were still perfectly even and the same.
Also, I was most impressed with the fact that when it came time for me to install the Thrust Bearings into the Blade Grips, I noticed that they were tied together with a little string. This saved me from wondering, "...which way does the Thrust Bearing face?" And I'm sure it saved me from some excessive wear because of possible installing it wrong.
Any questions???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-14-2002, 07:40 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT -- Page 6 -- Flybar and Control Arm
I was up late last night playing with my helicopter!!! MAN is this fun!!!!
The only error on page 6 was again I was referred to page 30 when actually I should have been refered to page 26 (again, no big deal).
I found the instruction in STEP 5 a little hard to understand. I completed the step, but only after reading it several times over and over and over. This MOST PROBABLE was because it was about 12 AM at the time, but I still found it a little difficult.
But the difficulty of that step was greatly rewarded by the next step.
I weighed the fly bar paddles and weights. The paddles were 21.6 grams each, and the weights were 6.7 grams. ONCE again, they matched each other perfectly.
(SEE PHOTO) I was also pleased to find a NOTCH in the fly bar itself (see red arrows). This notch is where the 3x3 set Screw comes down. The notch will prevent the fly bar from twisting. Another nice feature that the Nexus did not have.
Well, now my rotary head is complete. I showed it to my wife this morning and she was not impressed. She pretended to be impressed, but I knew better!!! On the other hand, I am very impressed.
Any Questions before I go into the next steps???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
The only error on page 6 was again I was referred to page 30 when actually I should have been refered to page 26 (again, no big deal).
I found the instruction in STEP 5 a little hard to understand. I completed the step, but only after reading it several times over and over and over. This MOST PROBABLE was because it was about 12 AM at the time, but I still found it a little difficult.
But the difficulty of that step was greatly rewarded by the next step.
I weighed the fly bar paddles and weights. The paddles were 21.6 grams each, and the weights were 6.7 grams. ONCE again, they matched each other perfectly.
(SEE PHOTO) I was also pleased to find a NOTCH in the fly bar itself (see red arrows). This notch is where the 3x3 set Screw comes down. The notch will prevent the fly bar from twisting. Another nice feature that the Nexus did not have.
Well, now my rotary head is complete. I showed it to my wife this morning and she was not impressed. She pretended to be impressed, but I knew better!!! On the other hand, I am very impressed.
Any Questions before I go into the next steps???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-14-2002, 10:23 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project
SOME ADVISE FOR YOU
Hey Kirk. you are doing a nice job. I just want to give some advise for your Falcon asembly:
The Falcon Tail Rotor Control Rod is 2mm and the others Rods are all 2.3mm.
BECAREFUL not to put one 2.3mm ball links on the 2mm Tail Rotor control rod.
If you put a 2.3mm one on the 2mm Rod it going to come loose and popped out and you will loose tail control.
I think the 2mm Ball Link has the Century logo and the 2.3mm Ball link has NO logo. I have read on other forum thats some people have encounter with this problem.........The 2.3mm and the 2mm Ball Links are in the same bag so make shure you find the correct ones for the T/R Rod.
Also check that in Step 28 they mention that you have to use JB Weld glue on the T/R pitch plate. Make shure NOT to skip this procedure. If not the star spring washer come of and you will loose tail rotor control.
Good luck,
Isaac
Hey Kirk. you are doing a nice job. I just want to give some advise for your Falcon asembly:
The Falcon Tail Rotor Control Rod is 2mm and the others Rods are all 2.3mm.
BECAREFUL not to put one 2.3mm ball links on the 2mm Tail Rotor control rod.
If you put a 2.3mm one on the 2mm Rod it going to come loose and popped out and you will loose tail control.
I think the 2mm Ball Link has the Century logo and the 2.3mm Ball link has NO logo. I have read on other forum thats some people have encounter with this problem.........The 2.3mm and the 2mm Ball Links are in the same bag so make shure you find the correct ones for the T/R Rod.
Also check that in Step 28 they mention that you have to use JB Weld glue on the T/R pitch plate. Make shure NOT to skip this procedure. If not the star spring washer come of and you will loose tail rotor control.
Good luck,
Isaac
07-15-2002, 04:07 PM
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Isaac.......
I printed out your instructions!! THANKS!! It's little tips like that, that will make this assembly a success!!
WOW, the more I think about your advice as I'm typing here the more I'm thankful!!!
A small little thing like swapping the 2.3 for the 2 could clearly make a HUGE difference!!!
Again, I am most thankful.
And if there is anything I can ever do your you, just let me know.
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
WOW, the more I think about your advice as I'm typing here the more I'm thankful!!!
A small little thing like swapping the 2.3 for the 2 could clearly make a HUGE difference!!!
Again, I am most thankful.
And if there is anything I can ever do your you, just let me know.
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-15-2002, 04:51 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT -- Page 7 -- Swash Plate
The Swash Plate not only appears to be a very functional device, IT truly is a work of art (see Photo).
I'm again impressed with all the metal parts on this kit. The Ball links for example are wonderful. There is a slight error in the opening pages of the instructions book about the ball links.
IT says: "...when tightening the steel ball, use an open ended metric 5 wrench which will match the hex exactly and not damage the ball."
Well the ball now use a 2mm hex key in the top, not the 5mm wrench.
Any questions???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
I'm again impressed with all the metal parts on this kit. The Ball links for example are wonderful. There is a slight error in the opening pages of the instructions book about the ball links.
IT says: "...when tightening the steel ball, use an open ended metric 5 wrench which will match the hex exactly and not damage the ball."
Well the ball now use a 2mm hex key in the top, not the 5mm wrench.
Any questions???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-15-2002, 05:09 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT -- Page 8-11 -- Main Gear, Tail Gear, Counter Gear.
If you would like to see the pages of the instruction book for this section, go to:
http://centuryheli.com/manuals/hawkn...al_step7_9.pdf
http://centuryheli.com/manuals/hawkn...step10_11A.pdf
http://centuryheli.com/manuals/hawkn...step11B_12.pdf
http://centuryheli.com/manuals/hawkn..._step15_16.pdf
To begin, I'm having so much fun I could bust!!
I found no error on any of these pages. But in the picture on page 11, it shows the 14x19 Washer going on top of the 10x19 Ball Bearing. But in the instructions, it says to put the Washer under the Ball Bearing???
I chose to follow the instruction and not the picture because it made more since for the washer to be between the Mast Stopper and the frame than it did for it to be on top of the Bearing. NOT to mention, if it sat on top of the bearing, it would then NOT fit in the frame, so the Washer would just be sitting up there loose.
Everything tracks nicely, and is smooth. Again I'm impressed at the number of Bearing in this kit. I've said it before, but it should be said again, if it moves, there is a bearing on it to make it move more smoothly.
EVEN my wife was impressed at this stage. She took the side frame from me and started turning the Counter gear and she said, "...NOW this impresses me!!!"
MY little girl (8 years old) only said, "...that's COOL daddy!!"
I do find at this point that the Starter Shaft is binding. I put some oil on it like it suggested, but I'm assuming it is binding because the other half of the frame is not installed yet. I'm hoping the starter shaft will move up and down more freely when the other half is installed.
When putting together the Counter Assembly, the Drive Shaft has a notch in it where the Drive Gear's Hex Key should sit. HOWEVER, when properly spaced, the hex key does not seat exactly in the notch. IT is secure, and it is tight, but I found the spacing of the notch to be a little off.
Well that's about it. ANY questions????
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
http://centuryheli.com/manuals/hawkn...al_step7_9.pdf
http://centuryheli.com/manuals/hawkn...step10_11A.pdf
http://centuryheli.com/manuals/hawkn...step11B_12.pdf
http://centuryheli.com/manuals/hawkn..._step15_16.pdf
To begin, I'm having so much fun I could bust!!
I found no error on any of these pages. But in the picture on page 11, it shows the 14x19 Washer going on top of the 10x19 Ball Bearing. But in the instructions, it says to put the Washer under the Ball Bearing???
I chose to follow the instruction and not the picture because it made more since for the washer to be between the Mast Stopper and the frame than it did for it to be on top of the Bearing. NOT to mention, if it sat on top of the bearing, it would then NOT fit in the frame, so the Washer would just be sitting up there loose.
Everything tracks nicely, and is smooth. Again I'm impressed at the number of Bearing in this kit. I've said it before, but it should be said again, if it moves, there is a bearing on it to make it move more smoothly.
EVEN my wife was impressed at this stage. She took the side frame from me and started turning the Counter gear and she said, "...NOW this impresses me!!!"
MY little girl (8 years old) only said, "...that's COOL daddy!!"
I do find at this point that the Starter Shaft is binding. I put some oil on it like it suggested, but I'm assuming it is binding because the other half of the frame is not installed yet. I'm hoping the starter shaft will move up and down more freely when the other half is installed.
When putting together the Counter Assembly, the Drive Shaft has a notch in it where the Drive Gear's Hex Key should sit. HOWEVER, when properly spaced, the hex key does not seat exactly in the notch. IT is secure, and it is tight, but I found the spacing of the notch to be a little off.
Well that's about it. ANY questions????
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-16-2002, 07:51 AM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project
Kirk,
I would have thought that by now Century would have fixed the counter gear shaft problem. This is one of those little things that Century keeps overlooking but never saying anything to anybody and I'm tired of calling them about it. If I were you I would call them and find out if they have an updated shaft. More likely than not you will get some kind of run around.
You NEED to file the flat lower a few mm to make sure the set screw has some purchase. Usually what happens is that the set screw only engages the shaft right at the edge of the flat. While it seems like its tight now, It could slip and come loose under loads and vibration. When this happens, all power to the rotor head is lost. I've seen the result. The engine RPM goes through the roof and if your not ready for it, the heli crashes.
One other thing, When you get the upper frames built, temporarily bolt on the lower frames. Turn the assembly upside down and sight along the bottom frame rails. Both side frames should be parrallel to each other. If not, you may have to enlarge one of the four lower frame mounting holes to jimmy them. I kinda doubt Century has redone the upper plastic frame molds and I've seen a few of them that have the holes on the lower frame mounting bosses not lined up. If your frames do not line up look at the mounting holes in the upper frame bosses and try to determine which one is not centered and causing the problem. That is the hole in the cooresponding lower frame that you will need to enlarge or slot. If you don't do this, it is possible to mis-align the engine when everything is bolted up tight. This will set-up stresses that will cause vibration and premature wear. I've also seen start shaft alignment problems.
Hope this helps,
Mike
I would have thought that by now Century would have fixed the counter gear shaft problem. This is one of those little things that Century keeps overlooking but never saying anything to anybody and I'm tired of calling them about it. If I were you I would call them and find out if they have an updated shaft. More likely than not you will get some kind of run around.
You NEED to file the flat lower a few mm to make sure the set screw has some purchase. Usually what happens is that the set screw only engages the shaft right at the edge of the flat. While it seems like its tight now, It could slip and come loose under loads and vibration. When this happens, all power to the rotor head is lost. I've seen the result. The engine RPM goes through the roof and if your not ready for it, the heli crashes.
One other thing, When you get the upper frames built, temporarily bolt on the lower frames. Turn the assembly upside down and sight along the bottom frame rails. Both side frames should be parrallel to each other. If not, you may have to enlarge one of the four lower frame mounting holes to jimmy them. I kinda doubt Century has redone the upper plastic frame molds and I've seen a few of them that have the holes on the lower frame mounting bosses not lined up. If your frames do not line up look at the mounting holes in the upper frame bosses and try to determine which one is not centered and causing the problem. That is the hole in the cooresponding lower frame that you will need to enlarge or slot. If you don't do this, it is possible to mis-align the engine when everything is bolted up tight. This will set-up stresses that will cause vibration and premature wear. I've also seen start shaft alignment problems.
Hope this helps,
Mike
07-16-2002, 11:54 AM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project
MIKE!!!!!
You are wonderful!!! Thanks for the tips and tricks!! I had my first mishape in building last night. I'll be posting the problems I ran into later.
This tip you just posted is wonderful!! I'm sure YOU TOO have saved me a crash.
Thanks!!
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
You are wonderful!!! Thanks for the tips and tricks!! I had my first mishape in building last night. I'll be posting the problems I ran into later.
This tip you just posted is wonderful!! I'm sure YOU TOO have saved me a crash.
Thanks!!
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-16-2002, 12:55 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Slipper Unit
OK, I've tightened this "Slipper" Unit 3 times and every time it still seams to "SLIP"!!
If I'm understanding the principle correctly, the "Slipper" Unit will keep the tail rotor spinning on an Auto Rotation. I understand that it binds the Main Gear using a rubber O ring.
But what I don't understand is that the instructions say to GREASE that O ring. SO I did and now it "SLIPS", it does not bind.
Does anyone know if all this will change when the main rotors are spinning at 1000+ RPM??
Does anyone have one of these things and does it work???
I smashed the O ring like the instructions said, but it just does not make since to me.
YOUR help is GREATLY appreciated!!
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
If I'm understanding the principle correctly, the "Slipper" Unit will keep the tail rotor spinning on an Auto Rotation. I understand that it binds the Main Gear using a rubber O ring.
But what I don't understand is that the instructions say to GREASE that O ring. SO I did and now it "SLIPS", it does not bind.
Does anyone know if all this will change when the main rotors are spinning at 1000+ RPM??
Does anyone have one of these things and does it work???
I smashed the O ring like the instructions said, but it just does not make since to me.
YOUR help is GREATLY appreciated!!
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-16-2002, 01:43 PM
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Time for me to jump in....
Kirk,
I built my Falcon SE II 4 weeks ago. So I am fresh on this kit.
Let me back up a step. When building the counter gear assembly it is VITAL that there be no play. I cannot say this enough. You will have to extend the flat on the counter gear shaft so that you can compress the spur gear down and tighten it up as Optec mentioned. For that matter make sure that the tail output shaft has NO endplay as well.
Now, the Falcon SE has a different upper frame layout than previous models. It aligns great with the lower frames. You shouldn't have a problem there. Just be sure to tighten the upper frame bolts up till the halves meet nicely.
Regarding the slipper, let me advise you to be sure that you follow the digram to the T!
Slipper Diagram
I accidentally placed the thin washer/o-ring/thick washer during assembly. This caused the O-Ring to ride out from under the slipper hub and nearly cut the O-Ring in half. So, be sure that you remove the upper snap ring, place the thin 12x18x.28 washer, then the thick 12X18X.5 washer, then the O-Ring followed by the Slipper hub. Get it as tight as you physically can. I did it according to the manual and the tail would not hold in my autos. So, I eventually had to get an additional set of hands to press down while I tightened. You want it tight enough that it is slightly difficult to slip. Not rigid! But slightly difficult. If it is not right you can always adjust it while in the frames. I do it all the time.
Keep up the good work. Be honest about your findings. I am sure that Century will peak in at this thread. I do think they need to make some adjustments here and there to the kit. But unless you are building a Fury, Vigor, Futura/Mille then this kit is as well designed as any thing out there. All kits have their issues.
I built my Falcon SE II 4 weeks ago. So I am fresh on this kit.
Let me back up a step. When building the counter gear assembly it is VITAL that there be no play. I cannot say this enough. You will have to extend the flat on the counter gear shaft so that you can compress the spur gear down and tighten it up as Optec mentioned. For that matter make sure that the tail output shaft has NO endplay as well.
Now, the Falcon SE has a different upper frame layout than previous models. It aligns great with the lower frames. You shouldn't have a problem there. Just be sure to tighten the upper frame bolts up till the halves meet nicely.
Regarding the slipper, let me advise you to be sure that you follow the digram to the T!
Slipper Diagram
I accidentally placed the thin washer/o-ring/thick washer during assembly. This caused the O-Ring to ride out from under the slipper hub and nearly cut the O-Ring in half. So, be sure that you remove the upper snap ring, place the thin 12x18x.28 washer, then the thick 12X18X.5 washer, then the O-Ring followed by the Slipper hub. Get it as tight as you physically can. I did it according to the manual and the tail would not hold in my autos. So, I eventually had to get an additional set of hands to press down while I tightened. You want it tight enough that it is slightly difficult to slip. Not rigid! But slightly difficult. If it is not right you can always adjust it while in the frames. I do it all the time.
Keep up the good work. Be honest about your findings. I am sure that Century will peak in at this thread. I do think they need to make some adjustments here and there to the kit. But unless you are building a Fury, Vigor, Futura/Mille then this kit is as well designed as any thing out there. All kits have their issues.
07-16-2002, 01:56 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project
Payton!!
Thanks buddy!! I have some grips that I bought from Lowes, they look like big claws and as you squeeze the trigger, it tightens down.
This is what I used to squeeze the slipper unit together.
When I turn the Main Shaft, it does turn the main gear. But if I hold the Main Shaft, I can make it slip. IT appears to be tight, but I guess there's no way to really know if it's going to work or not till I get it all together and flip that AUTO switch!!
Thanks for the suggestions!!!
OH, and I've already done it on the Counter Gear. I opened up the halves, pulled out the Counter Gear, pulled off the problem and sure enough, IT was tightening down NOT in the slot, but on top of the shaft.
I took my Drimmel tool (love using that tool!!!) and grounded the slot a little longer and put it all back together.
ONCE again!! Thanks for all of your help and suggestions.
FINALLY, I'll back up what Payton said. I attached the lower frame like Mike said to do and it appears to line up perfectly.
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
Thanks buddy!! I have some grips that I bought from Lowes, they look like big claws and as you squeeze the trigger, it tightens down.
This is what I used to squeeze the slipper unit together.
When I turn the Main Shaft, it does turn the main gear. But if I hold the Main Shaft, I can make it slip. IT appears to be tight, but I guess there's no way to really know if it's going to work or not till I get it all together and flip that AUTO switch!!
Thanks for the suggestions!!!
OH, and I've already done it on the Counter Gear. I opened up the halves, pulled out the Counter Gear, pulled off the problem and sure enough, IT was tightening down NOT in the slot, but on top of the shaft.
I took my Drimmel tool (love using that tool!!!) and grounded the slot a little longer and put it all back together.
ONCE again!! Thanks for all of your help and suggestions.
FINALLY, I'll back up what Payton said. I attached the lower frame like Mike said to do and it appears to line up perfectly.
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-16-2002, 01:56 PM
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Upper Frame design
For those of you that are following this thread and are wondering what all the fuss about the new Falcon is about I want to point out a couple of things in the upper frame that are nice IMO.
One, notice how far apart the upper and lower bearing blocks are on the main shaft. This make and extremely rigid layout that will discourage stipped gears and flex. Also, Century has a Thrust Bearing package that you can install in the bearing blocks in place of the radial bearings. I have not tried them but I would assume that it would really reduce some drag.
Also, notice the counter gear driving the main gear instead of a conventional system using a spur gear on the clutch bell directly to the main gear. I believe this provides more luxury in engine placement within the heli. Which in turn allows for the fuel tank to be mounted VERY closely to the mainshaft as well. Also, the gear noise is actually very quiet and smooth.
These things are not necessarily new to the Falcon. They have been around on the kits for quite awhile. But many people that have entered the hobby in the last 2 years have not seen the Century frame design due to the popularity of the other helis. So, I thought I would point out some differences.
One, notice how far apart the upper and lower bearing blocks are on the main shaft. This make and extremely rigid layout that will discourage stipped gears and flex. Also, Century has a Thrust Bearing package that you can install in the bearing blocks in place of the radial bearings. I have not tried them but I would assume that it would really reduce some drag.
Also, notice the counter gear driving the main gear instead of a conventional system using a spur gear on the clutch bell directly to the main gear. I believe this provides more luxury in engine placement within the heli. Which in turn allows for the fuel tank to be mounted VERY closely to the mainshaft as well. Also, the gear noise is actually very quiet and smooth.
These things are not necessarily new to the Falcon. They have been around on the kits for quite awhile. But many people that have entered the hobby in the last 2 years have not seen the Century frame design due to the popularity of the other helis. So, I thought I would point out some differences.
07-16-2002, 02:03 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- Red Lock Tight vs. Blue Lock Tight
In several places in the instructions book, I have been told to use Blue Lock Tight, and in other places I've been told to use Red.
When you buy Lock-tight from a store like Lowes, or Home Depot, the BLUE is stronger than the RED!! At least that's what I'm reading?? They also make a GREEN that from what I hear is impossible to remove unless you heat it up.
OK, with that said, I bought some lock tight from Century/Helicopter World when I bought this model. IT came is such a bigger bottle that I decided it would be more practical.
BUT,,,I'm noticing that in places where you should NEVER have to undo something such as the Counter Gear, I was told to use RED LOCK-TIGHT!!
NOW the RED is suppose to be less strength than the BLUE. But this morning when I had to take apart the Counter Gear to re-do that slot that we talked about above, I almost had to heat it up to get it apart!!
SO I'm wondering in all YA'LLS vast experience, maybe you know something I don't know, LIKE that the RED when purchased from a hobby shop, it actually the strongest, and the blue is the weakest???
Could someone verify all that for me???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
When you buy Lock-tight from a store like Lowes, or Home Depot, the BLUE is stronger than the RED!! At least that's what I'm reading?? They also make a GREEN that from what I hear is impossible to remove unless you heat it up.
OK, with that said, I bought some lock tight from Century/Helicopter World when I bought this model. IT came is such a bigger bottle that I decided it would be more practical.
BUT,,,I'm noticing that in places where you should NEVER have to undo something such as the Counter Gear, I was told to use RED LOCK-TIGHT!!
NOW the RED is suppose to be less strength than the BLUE. But this morning when I had to take apart the Counter Gear to re-do that slot that we talked about above, I almost had to heat it up to get it apart!!
SO I'm wondering in all YA'LLS vast experience, maybe you know something I don't know, LIKE that the RED when purchased from a hobby shop, it actually the strongest, and the blue is the weakest???
Could someone verify all that for me???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-16-2002, 02:15 PM
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RE:locktite question
Kirk,
First post here, I am new to heli's, but have been around R/C for 10 years. I am reading through your buildup report of the Falcon with great attention as I am currently trying to determine what to purchase for my first machine.
Anyway regarding the locktite, you have it backwards. BLUE is WEAKER than RED!! RED is used in places where you really shouldn't be pulling things apart. I think what has confused you is that sometimes you can buy BLUE colored locktite in a RED bottle!! What a dirty marketing trick. For as long as I have known RED locktite normally requires LOTS of force and usually some heat to remove, while fasteners locktited with BLUE can be removed using hand tools and some force.
Here is a page I found with a chart from Locktite on what the different colors and codes are used for. When purchasing locktite to make sure you are getting what you want just check what number it is..IE Locktite 242 is the BLUE, Locktite 271 is the RED..etc. http://www.humvee.net/hid/misc/locktite.html
Now get back to building your kit so I can use your experiences to help me decide on what I want!!
Dynomite
First post here, I am new to heli's, but have been around R/C for 10 years. I am reading through your buildup report of the Falcon with great attention as I am currently trying to determine what to purchase for my first machine.
Anyway regarding the locktite, you have it backwards. BLUE is WEAKER than RED!! RED is used in places where you really shouldn't be pulling things apart. I think what has confused you is that sometimes you can buy BLUE colored locktite in a RED bottle!! What a dirty marketing trick. For as long as I have known RED locktite normally requires LOTS of force and usually some heat to remove, while fasteners locktited with BLUE can be removed using hand tools and some force.
Here is a page I found with a chart from Locktite on what the different colors and codes are used for. When purchasing locktite to make sure you are getting what you want just check what number it is..IE Locktite 242 is the BLUE, Locktite 271 is the RED..etc. http://www.humvee.net/hid/misc/locktite.html
Now get back to building your kit so I can use your experiences to help me decide on what I want!!
Dynomite
07-16-2002, 02:27 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project
Dynomite:
Ahhhhhh......I feel better now!!! I could not imagine that I was told to put WEAKER lock-tight in the place where the instructions had told me to do it!!!
OK, I'm back on track!!!! I have a few portrait sessions today (work), so I will not be able to post till later this afternoon. But at that time I'll be posting my little MISHAP that has resulted in me having to call helicopter world and order some more part!!!
CRAP!!!!! I hate it when I make mistakes!!!
Kirk Voclain
Ahhhhhh......I feel better now!!! I could not imagine that I was told to put WEAKER lock-tight in the place where the instructions had told me to do it!!!
OK, I'm back on track!!!! I have a few portrait sessions today (work), so I will not be able to post till later this afternoon. But at that time I'll be posting my little MISHAP that has resulted in me having to call helicopter world and order some more part!!!
CRAP!!!!! I hate it when I make mistakes!!!
Kirk Voclain
07-16-2002, 02:36 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project
I prefer tu use the green Loctite instead of the red one. The green one liquid is more thiner and penetrate the small treads of the allen screw. Also sometines you need to use heat to take the parts apart. What I use to heat those tiny winy allen screw is a Electronic Soldering Pen.........Just put the tip of the soldering pen over the screw for 5 minutes and thats all........But some times even that you has remove the screw is dificult to remove the parts because the green loctite has glue the parts himself...........So you has to put more heat.
The Kyosho Concept has a identical counter gear to drive the tail as the Falcon and I has use there the green loctite there without any problem.
Good luck
Isaac
The Kyosho Concept has a identical counter gear to drive the tail as the Falcon and I has use there the green loctite there without any problem.
Good luck
Isaac
07-16-2002, 04:40 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT-- The Building Project
Hi Kirk,
Well done....very interesting!
Just a few notes:
a) Ball joints: Century used to use ball joints that had a 5mm type nut at their base for tightening (similar to the ones used by X-Cell), this is why the intro refers to it. As some builders did not have a 5mm spanner they probably tried to use pliers (eeeek!!) and sometimes would damage the balls. As Century seems to always be looking for ways to improve their kits, they have replaced these with the new ones that are much easier to use. Simply screw them in with a 2mm hex driver as the head of the ball is molded with the 2mm hex insert. I guess they thought that it was a relative no-brainer for anyone assembling the kits to figure out the tool needed for installing these so they did not print an adendum. The next addition of the instructions will probably have the changes made to the intro.
b) The picture is correct, but it is not critical. The 14 x 19 washer that you refer to in step 15 should go on top. This will ensure that the raised portion of the mast stopper will ride directly against the inner race of the bearing.
c) Counter gear fitment (step 12): An easy alternative to making the flat spot longer on the shaft is to add an M5 washer of about 1mm thickness on TOP of the two M5 X 7 units provide. (I used one of the M5 x 10 washers that come with the feathering spindle of the Hawk IV).
D) Slipper clutch: As its name implies, it is designed to slip, that is why it can be lubricated. In an auto there is no torque to counter so it does not take that much tail rotor power to control the tail in the standard auto, even a 180 or 360 degree one. The tighter it is the more it will engage the t/r which in turn will take more energy from the blade to drive. So you can set it looser or tighter, depending on how little or how much power you want from the T/R during your auto. For training I would suggest that you set it just tight enough to hold the maingear in place. As you get better and start some crosswind type of autos (you must fly crosswind through some parts of the 180 and 360 degree autos) then you can tighten it down. Later for pirouetting type of autos and backward autos you can replace it with the new CN2263 Constant Driven Tail unit.
Keep up the good work, your posts are very interesting....even for us who have been flying Falcon SE's going back to the initial V1's with the nut tightened balls.
Well done....very interesting!
Just a few notes:
a) Ball joints: Century used to use ball joints that had a 5mm type nut at their base for tightening (similar to the ones used by X-Cell), this is why the intro refers to it. As some builders did not have a 5mm spanner they probably tried to use pliers (eeeek!!) and sometimes would damage the balls. As Century seems to always be looking for ways to improve their kits, they have replaced these with the new ones that are much easier to use. Simply screw them in with a 2mm hex driver as the head of the ball is molded with the 2mm hex insert. I guess they thought that it was a relative no-brainer for anyone assembling the kits to figure out the tool needed for installing these so they did not print an adendum. The next addition of the instructions will probably have the changes made to the intro.
b) The picture is correct, but it is not critical. The 14 x 19 washer that you refer to in step 15 should go on top. This will ensure that the raised portion of the mast stopper will ride directly against the inner race of the bearing.
c) Counter gear fitment (step 12): An easy alternative to making the flat spot longer on the shaft is to add an M5 washer of about 1mm thickness on TOP of the two M5 X 7 units provide. (I used one of the M5 x 10 washers that come with the feathering spindle of the Hawk IV).
D) Slipper clutch: As its name implies, it is designed to slip, that is why it can be lubricated. In an auto there is no torque to counter so it does not take that much tail rotor power to control the tail in the standard auto, even a 180 or 360 degree one. The tighter it is the more it will engage the t/r which in turn will take more energy from the blade to drive. So you can set it looser or tighter, depending on how little or how much power you want from the T/R during your auto. For training I would suggest that you set it just tight enough to hold the maingear in place. As you get better and start some crosswind type of autos (you must fly crosswind through some parts of the 180 and 360 degree autos) then you can tighten it down. Later for pirouetting type of autos and backward autos you can replace it with the new CN2263 Constant Driven Tail unit.
Keep up the good work, your posts are very interesting....even for us who have been flying Falcon SE's going back to the initial V1's with the nut tightened balls.
07-16-2002, 04:56 PM
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WASHER Question......
Syclic.....
I'm posting a picture so we can fully understand this washer problem.
The instructions say for me to put it above the Mast Stoper. But as you can see in the photo (GREEN ARROW), the picture shows the washer above the bearing.
But I did as the instructions said (RED ARROW), I put it above the Mast Stoper.
WHICH is CORRECT?????
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
I'm posting a picture so we can fully understand this washer problem.
The instructions say for me to put it above the Mast Stoper. But as you can see in the photo (GREEN ARROW), the picture shows the washer above the bearing.
But I did as the instructions said (RED ARROW), I put it above the Mast Stoper.
WHICH is CORRECT?????
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
07-16-2002, 08:07 PM
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Falcon 50 SE II REPORT -- Page 12-13 -- Side Frames, Eleron, Collective Assembly
I've done this 2 times so far because I had to go back and grind down a notch for the Counter Gear.
But it's not that bad. There are Bearing for the collective arm to ride on. At this point, I'm not sure how all of this is going to come together. IT looks rather confusing to me at this point. MAINLY because the NEXUS is so simple in it's design. I do find it nice that everything is tight and that when I turn the Main Gear everything is smooth.
Again, no errors at this point in the instructions. Everything is coming together nicely.
The bearing all seated nicely in the side frames when I put the 2 halves together.
See Photo.
Any questions???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain
But it's not that bad. There are Bearing for the collective arm to ride on. At this point, I'm not sure how all of this is going to come together. IT looks rather confusing to me at this point. MAINLY because the NEXUS is so simple in it's design. I do find it nice that everything is tight and that when I turn the Main Gear everything is smooth.
Again, no errors at this point in the instructions. Everything is coming together nicely.
The bearing all seated nicely in the side frames when I put the 2 halves together.
See Photo.
Any questions???
Yours,
Kirk Voclain