Dirty Birdy build
04-15-2013, 08:24 AM
#30
RE: Dirty Birdy build
Thanks Computermonkey.
We'll be in your area next week, I wish it were ready but then again my wife would want to know why I'm bringing a plane on vacation...hmmm, doesn't everyone.
Wind has kept me from painting since my paint booth consists of a canopy with plastic around it. However, I'm fixing all the small stuff that I was going to let slide.
We'll be in your area next week, I wish it were ready but then again my wife would want to know why I'm bringing a plane on vacation...hmmm, doesn't everyone.
Wind has kept me from painting since my paint booth consists of a canopy with plastic around it. However, I'm fixing all the small stuff that I was going to let slide.
04-22-2013, 08:28 PM
#35
RE: Dirty Birdy build
Thanks guys. I really wish I had done this sooner in life but I'm here now so let's enjoy.
I've got to say Klasskote is awesome! It's like a hard coating (primer) but it sands off to a powder. It's a texture that's hard to describe.
Here's my mistakes so far. I read somewhere to mix 6 parts primer/hardener to 1 part thinner to start...wrong! I should have listened to everyone and it wouldn't have the goose pimples. Mix 1 part of hardener, 1 part of primer, 1 part of thinner.
I bought their thinner but I read about using Klean Strip Lacquer thinner and it works good so far. I bought a gallon because you use it to wipe the model down before painting too. They have it at Walmart.
While you're there got to the kitchen area and get some glass measuring cups. This stuff will eat most plastics I've tried and wax or paper bowls may absorb some of the chemicals or release wax.
The gray primer takes 20 minutes to 'kick off' but the white primer doesn't. As soon as you mix A and B you can then add the thinner. With the gray (and maybe the paint - not sure yet) you have to wait 20 minutes then add the thinner and then pour it in you gun.
Not sure about the final sanding on the primer. It's at 150 grit now but some have said they use 400. The primer went on so well I hope the paint is the same but I'm sure it's a bit thinner, not as high build.
First SPA contest is this weekend so I don't think I'll finish this week so maybe in a couple more weeks.
Oh, almost forgot. Don't follow my wing servo install. Pattern planes don't need much throw and mechanical advantage is important especially if you have servos that skip steps (don't center well). If you set it up correctly your connecting rod will be close to the servo center and further out on the control horn so you get full motion in the servo and doesn't give a great deal of deflection on the controls. Well, this 'sweet spot' is buried in my wing [:@] I figured this out looking at Robert's Vertigo build. I thought why did you do such a beautiful build and put the servo top outside the wing...doh! I figured out a way around this but it's going to add to the complexity. Pics later.
Tim
I've got to say Klasskote is awesome! It's like a hard coating (primer) but it sands off to a powder. It's a texture that's hard to describe.
Here's my mistakes so far. I read somewhere to mix 6 parts primer/hardener to 1 part thinner to start...wrong! I should have listened to everyone and it wouldn't have the goose pimples. Mix 1 part of hardener, 1 part of primer, 1 part of thinner.
I bought their thinner but I read about using Klean Strip Lacquer thinner and it works good so far. I bought a gallon because you use it to wipe the model down before painting too. They have it at Walmart.
While you're there got to the kitchen area and get some glass measuring cups. This stuff will eat most plastics I've tried and wax or paper bowls may absorb some of the chemicals or release wax.
The gray primer takes 20 minutes to 'kick off' but the white primer doesn't. As soon as you mix A and B you can then add the thinner. With the gray (and maybe the paint - not sure yet) you have to wait 20 minutes then add the thinner and then pour it in you gun.
Not sure about the final sanding on the primer. It's at 150 grit now but some have said they use 400. The primer went on so well I hope the paint is the same but I'm sure it's a bit thinner, not as high build.
First SPA contest is this weekend so I don't think I'll finish this week so maybe in a couple more weeks.
Oh, almost forgot. Don't follow my wing servo install. Pattern planes don't need much throw and mechanical advantage is important especially if you have servos that skip steps (don't center well). If you set it up correctly your connecting rod will be close to the servo center and further out on the control horn so you get full motion in the servo and doesn't give a great deal of deflection on the controls. Well, this 'sweet spot' is buried in my wing [:@] I figured this out looking at Robert's Vertigo build. I thought why did you do such a beautiful build and put the servo top outside the wing...doh! I figured out a way around this but it's going to add to the complexity. Pics later.
Tim
04-22-2013, 08:46 PM
#36
RE: Dirty Birdy build
I'm a little worried about some of the weave. When I painted these I was using the 6/1 ratio for the primer and thinner. I may have to go back and shoot some more primer. Otherwise I'll have to sand the paint and paint again.
I like the way the hinge covers worked out. Not gaps to put tape over.
Tim
I like the way the hinge covers worked out. Not gaps to put tape over.
Tim
04-22-2013, 09:02 PM
#37
RE: Dirty Birdy build
Almost forgot. The original one I posted a picture of is no more. He crashed it somehow. My buddy built another one and I got to fly it a little bit and eventhough he had a servo failure I could tell it will perform beautiful. My S Kaos is good but nothing like the more 'modern' birds.
We debated using a separate servo for each elevator half and just before he handed me the controls he commented it seemed to be climbing. When I adjusted the trim it started banking right and I said you've lost an elvator half. Well, he's glad he put two servos on the elevator. 1 week before contest he would have had to scrap his good plane and fly the standby.
We debated using a separate servo for each elevator half and just before he handed me the controls he commented it seemed to be climbing. When I adjusted the trim it started banking right and I said you've lost an elvator half. Well, he's glad he put two servos on the elevator. 1 week before contest he would have had to scrap his good plane and fly the standby.
05-10-2013, 03:46 PM
#39
RE: Dirty Birdy build
Weather came a calling so I laid up some new fuselages instead of painting (man, I need a paint booth!). I am using a new bulker material (it's like using balsa sandwich construction) and I came up with two fuselages at 12.8 oz and 13.8 oz that are ballistic strong. Forward of the wing is a bit softer but it still has a bulkhead in front of the wing and the firewall which should stiffen it up.
Tim
Tim
06-13-2013, 06:04 PM
#40
RE: Dirty Birdy build
Painting is going slow (ok, I confess, I've been playing with the Vertigo too much. You can see in the background all scraps from the foam wings I've been cutting. "MUST CLEAN TONIGHT" ). I have to block off each color and paint individually because you would have to sand between coats if you laid them on top of each other. Plus it would build up weight.
I have the fuselage (gray) done and tonight I shot some of the white. I'm getting the hang of it so tomorrow I'll try to get the red done. Hopefully I'll be ready for the CPA event Frank is hosting.
I have the fuselage (gray) done and tonight I shot some of the white. I'm getting the hang of it so tomorrow I'll try to get the red done. Hopefully I'll be ready for the CPA event Frank is hosting.
06-15-2013, 02:49 PM
#44
RE: Dirty Birdy build
Me too, can't wait. I'd post pictures but my wife (also a modeler who also helps me in the shop) wants it to be a surprise. 
The only thing I accomplished today was to fix an oops. There are two 'stripes' on the horizontal stab and I masked off the white and forgot to move the masking tape over when I did the red so I got a big blank bar between the two. I sanded it at the edge of the red and shot more on. Probably enough that it would have ran on a vertical surface. So now I have to let that extra thick paint dry before I remove the tape. It's still going to show a bit but se la vie.
Next I'll mask off the wing tomorrow and start getting it ready.
Here's some things I've learned...don't use blue masking tape, it leaves a horrible residue. The green Frog tape works good for large areas. 3M masking tape - get the 1/8" and 1/4"...they work great with no bleeding and no residue.
Last is use the plastic drop cloth material from Home Depot or Lowes to bag the sections not getting paint at them moment. Don't paint outside without setting up your paint 'tent'. I painted this outside because it was a quicky and you can see some trash...lesson learned; however, a razor will make it go a way if you cut it level.
Later, Tim
The only thing I accomplished today was to fix an oops. There are two 'stripes' on the horizontal stab and I masked off the white and forgot to move the masking tape over when I did the red so I got a big blank bar between the two. I sanded it at the edge of the red and shot more on. Probably enough that it would have ran on a vertical surface. So now I have to let that extra thick paint dry before I remove the tape. It's still going to show a bit but se la vie.
Next I'll mask off the wing tomorrow and start getting it ready.
Here's some things I've learned...don't use blue masking tape, it leaves a horrible residue. The green Frog tape works good for large areas. 3M masking tape - get the 1/8" and 1/4"...they work great with no bleeding and no residue.
Last is use the plastic drop cloth material from Home Depot or Lowes to bag the sections not getting paint at them moment. Don't paint outside without setting up your paint 'tent'. I painted this outside because it was a quicky and you can see some trash...lesson learned; however, a razor will make it go a way if you cut it level.
Later, Tim
06-15-2013, 03:07 PM
#45
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RE: Dirty Birdy build
Tim,
Is this KlassKote? If not, I was going to suggest skipping the "knife". Wet sand the smithereens out of it. It will go all dull on you but that's good - it will give you an ideal and light base coat for a final acrylic urethane top coat. That one, you really don't want junk on!
David
Is this KlassKote? If not, I was going to suggest skipping the "knife". Wet sand the smithereens out of it. It will go all dull on you but that's good - it will give you an ideal and light base coat for a final acrylic urethane top coat. That one, you really don't want junk on!
David
06-15-2013, 06:42 PM
#47
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RE: Dirty Birdy build
Tim,
I don't think one can sand KK without loosing its fuel proofness. It would be good to check with the KK experts. But..., you can always sand it all down smooth, uniform and thin and then clear it. Weight would be the same or likely lighter.
Just an idea,
David
I don't think one can sand KK without loosing its fuel proofness. It would be good to check with the KK experts. But..., you can always sand it all down smooth, uniform and thin and then clear it. Weight would be the same or likely lighter.
Just an idea,
David
06-17-2013, 12:12 AM
#49
RE: Dirty Birdy build
ORIGINAL: Timthetoolman1
I agree but I would never use KK clear over white because I've heard the clear has a slight auburn tent.
I agree but I would never use KK clear over white because I've heard the clear has a slight auburn tent.
Works great and never yellows....ever.
Just wet sand the color with 600 black paper....nothing finer......take the shine off.......then shoot the clear overall.
I usually use some gold powder in the clear for some slight bling. See the PPG dealer for this stuff.
Thin it water thin and use a syphon gun...not an HVLP gun....take it easy....make a lot of overspray looking passes until it looks like you want....then stop!
If you forget to stop...the tires will go flat!
Dave
06-17-2013, 07:55 AM
#50
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RE: Dirty Birdy build
Tim,
What Dave said. Whenever possible, always use urethane for CC. KK epoxy clear is not meant for top coating and if it is, it shouldn't. The advantage of an acrylic urethane top coat is that it should reduce the rate of UV degradation of the color coats - a common problem with epoxy based pigments - especially white.
We've all seen what happens to Hobbypoxy and K&B epoxy finishes after 10-20 years... White fuses then are I'll beige today.
BTW, be covered hair to toe when shooting isocynates (acrylic urethane). You will absorb the overspray otherwise and we don't want to discuss that...
David
PS DuPont and Sherwin Williams also have equivalent products. Probably the most expensive paint you'll use on a model.
What Dave said. Whenever possible, always use urethane for CC. KK epoxy clear is not meant for top coating and if it is, it shouldn't. The advantage of an acrylic urethane top coat is that it should reduce the rate of UV degradation of the color coats - a common problem with epoxy based pigments - especially white.
We've all seen what happens to Hobbypoxy and K&B epoxy finishes after 10-20 years... White fuses then are I'll beige today.
BTW, be covered hair to toe when shooting isocynates (acrylic urethane). You will absorb the overspray otherwise and we don't want to discuss that...
David
PS DuPont and Sherwin Williams also have equivalent products. Probably the most expensive paint you'll use on a model.
