dhal22

Mike, how often do you fly your BA?

Deadstik

My Feedback: (8)

8178,

Thanks very much for that kind offer... think I'll take you up on that. Just to get my contact info straight for everyone...

Carolina Custom Aircraft can be reached via : [email protected]

Been very busy between the "real:" job and the planes.... but... gotta pay the bills. Wonder if I could declare that Carolina Aircraft needs a bailout??? Not much.. couple of million would do nicely....ROFL..

anyway.... anyone needs anything, just get in touch. Thanks everyone for all the kind support. My wife and I really appreciate it.

Dan
Carolina Custom Aircraft
Rougemont, NC

8178

My Feedback: (17)

8178

My Feedback: (17)

Free Bird

8178 - just a quick question. Several times in your build thread, you mention that you use microballons mixed with I believe epoxy. Or are you using polyester resin? If you're using epoxy, what flavor? 30 minute? and to what consistancy? As you know, I have a BA airframe and I REALLY have enjoyed your BA build and modeling techniques and hope to do justice to my BA. TIA!

FB

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

FB,

sorry for piping in as I'm not 8178. I use that cocktail frequently. In fact, I've only very rarely used MB without epoxy but some use it as a weave filler for FG applied in preparation for paint on a wood frame (Mike might have). Others like to use talc or even dilute HobbyLite filler.

For fillet type work however (wing fillets, empennage fillets, etc.), I typically use 30 min epoxy (but 45 is better if you have it), mix it and then add the MB into it until I have a fairly white paste which isn't thick to the point where you can't stir it anymore (add the MB far away from you as they become airborne easily - you don't want that stuff in your lungs!). I then add denatured alcohol (an epoxy thinner if you will) in small amounts until it reaches a consistency that will allow it to be spread without it running - a paste of sorts. I believe this approach uses the least amount of epoxy and gives you maximum volume for creating the desired fillets. The trick, of course, is to use as much MB as you can as that is the light stuff while the epoxy is heavy. You can usually thin out the mixture further and add more MB to reduce the epoxy ratio even further - it really depends how stiff a fillet you desire.

Having said that, there are other fillers which are lighter and depending on the work you're doing, they might be preferable. The nice thing about the epoxy (or poly resin - doesn't really matter) and MB is that you can sculpt it nicely into shape with the aid of a finger dipped in alcohol. When you do, be careful not to leave wet areas (of alcohol) too far from the desired area as when it dries it will carry residue of epoxy and is hard to sand and/or remove. Masking the area often helps to avoid contaminating the adjacent wood (I should listen to my advice more often on that front...). Be sure to remove the masking tape before the glue sets - you will end up with a nice straight line and the epoxy will pool down to the surface at the mask line.

I'm sorry if this is completely off topic - I thought it might be what you were looking for.

David.

Free Bird

No problem on the post David, as I appreciate the info. I've used the same technique in the past, however I've never thinned the mixture down with alcohol after it was mixed. Never thought of that if the mixture was too thick.

FB

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I’ve used micro balloons with epoxy and also with polyester resin. It all depends if I’m applying them on epoxy or polyester resin. I used polyester resin to glass the Blue Angel so I used resin with the micro balloons. One exception was the bonding of the canopy and I used epoxy on that.

dhal22

one day this thread will hit 100,000 views. [X(]

8178

My Feedback: (17)

That would take some doing, over 7000 views to get to 100K. We would need to start big discussion about how Yoshioka did some special unpublished thing to the tail and then find someone that disagreed and then another group that agreed, etc.

doxilia

My Feedback: (3)

... or we could just roundup 7000 classic pattern guys and tell them they should really check out Mike's BA thread - it would be taken care of in a few days!

I was actually just browsing some ideas back on page 15...

David.

dhal22

oh, i'm sure it will get there someday.

Free Bird

8178,

Do you have contact info for the guy (Dan) that did the graphics for your BA? I'm starting to gather the materials needed and the lettering is high on my list. Thanks for the help!

FB

dhal22

FB, mine isn't to far from needing paint either, i am interested in this myself.

Taurus Flyer

8178, first, nice plane. Congrads but.

In the other BA thread I was triggered about the way you switch the main power of the radio.

My planes did survive mid air collisions in the past (gliders in the mountains) but cannot show you pictures of that, for that I do show some example pictures of a friend of me, Berusty.

This plane did survive, but, I think when something like this happens with your plane the tilt switch will prevent you to have to repair any damage.

First I am afraid the mass of the wire can give extra wear as result of vibrations of the engine or even, the friction forces (different coëfficients of friction of movements and static!! {again an example of my coal english}) the switch can be switched off during flight!!

Second it is possible the radio is switched off in case of a mid air collision as result of G-forces depending of the direction, or the cable is hit.

BTW,
This message is completely my personnal idea, I always try to create most security (double poled switch, hide for any impact) but
when the radio seller did show you this method the switch is prepared for that.
I think Berusty reads this post and he will react!!

I wish you many happy flights with this beautiful plane.



Cees

dhal22

while this thread is back i might as well refresh this question.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

I used his RCU ID (deltron) to PM him.

Aurora_60

My Feedback: (1)

Fromeco make one of the best "active" switches available. They are usually used in high dollar airframes, but I don't understand why there not in all planes. The price is the same as a heavy duty passive swith from the likes of JR and Futaba @ about $35. The active part of the switch makes it fail in the closed position and they also have switches that have no sliding toggle so g forces wouldn't do anything to them. By far the best and most secure switch I have seen yet.
Years ago I never ran switches. I would make the reciever easily accesable and would remove the batt. plug. In the 80s I saw a beautiful scale plane demolished from a bad switch and never trusted them since... until I saw the Fromeco


http://www.fromeco.org/Categories/Switches/


DM

Taurus Flyer

DM,

I did take a look in the documentation of your link of Fromeco and show you the description of the USD 35,00 range. There instruction note:



The Badger Switch is a Solid State switch designed for powering flight control systems in small and giant scale aircraft.
Badger's come in 2 different colors, Silver Aluminum, and Blue anodized Aluminum. Badger's can also have several different types of wiring installed, although the Deans in and Deans out, and the Futaba in and JR out are the most sold versions.
The Badger utilizes a Solid State design which is also often called a "Soft Switch" and is also associated with the moniker "Fail Safe". Fromeco generally does not approve of the saying "Fail Safe", because there are instances where a "Fail Safe", type unit can fail. Badger Switches do use a very small amount of power when the off position, 80microamps which is a minuscule amount of power.

The Badger line of switches also incorporates a blue Power on LED, this allows pilots to see if they have left a switch in the "ON" position when placed in a darker area, such as a garage with lights off, or in the back of a Vehicle when night fall has arrived. The Feature is import to help pilots who inadvertently leave their switches "ON" catch the problem to save their Lithium Ion or Lithium Phosphate battery packs from being over discharged.

Benefits:
• Badger Switches utilize and Open Frame design to save weight on the overall switch.
• Badger Switches have minimal voltage loss due to the fact that main current flow is not going through a set of switch Contacts.
• Badger Switches Rated for 13amps of current, most mechanical switches are only rated for 5amps.
• Power "ON" LED indicator.
• Mechanical switch incorporates a Ridged Paddle design which requires force for the detent to pass, this in turn gives a positive feel for switching ON and prevents the switch from vibrating into the OFF position.




Last note is my point I was thinking about.
Mechanical switch incorporates a Ridged Paddle design which requires force for the detent to pass, this in turn gives a positive feel for switching ON and prevents the switch from vibrating into the OFF position.

When the HOLD force in off direction is exceeded by the multiplication of the mass of the steel wire (and other extras) and the G-forces in off direction your radio is off if there is no mechanical lock.

Important point is, this is a build thread and less experienced modelers do copy the principle without knowing the risks when use a wrong switch and or combined with too much mass.
It would be interesting to know about this! Guarantee of Badger switches also the same switch!



Fromeco Scale Avionics LLC® warrants that at the time of shipment and for a period of ninety (90) days thereafter the Product (Fromeco Scale Avionics LLC® Regulators and Switches) shall conform to the functional description contained herein, and shall be free from defects in workmanship. If any defect within this warranty appears, the Purchaser shall notify FROMECO immediately. Buyer’s sole and exclusive remedy in the event of a defect is expressly limited to (at Fromeco Scale Avionics LLC® sole election) correction of the defect by replace¬ment or issuance of credit in the amount of the price of the Product, for any Product which proves defective within the above warranty. The foregoing warranties are the sole and exclusive warranties made by Fromeco Scale Avionics LLC®. THESE WARRANTIES ARE IN LIEU OF ALL OTHER WARRANTIES, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. In no event shall Fromeco Scale Avionics LLC® be liable to Purchaser, end user, or any other party or individual for any incidental, special or consequential damages of any nature that are or could be attributable to the product. Fromeco Scale Avionics LLC® maximum liability shall not exceed the purchase price of the Product under this agreement. Use of the Product by Purchaser shall constitute Purchaser’s acceptance of these terms.


What will happen when you claim damage on your plane (or worse!!!!!) and they see you did drill a hole in that Ridged Paddle?
I normally only accept answers when I see a hole in that paddle and a description of the seller how to use, but, that's my way of doing these things because also when I see bended pieces of wire in the othre thread how can this results i"n: this in turn gives a positive feel for switching ON

Note:

I use two switches to switchover my airspeed controller from “auto throttle ” to “manual throttle ” on moment of touch down when I did make the preselection for that.(so not for touch and go). This is to prevent the engine will be rev up by the controller to maintain air speed.
The "windgradiënt" results always in a windspeed on pitot tube level of nearly zero knots /sec so the plane accelerates when the controller isn't switched over to manual trottle.
That's why I use for safety reasons two different principles, one switch on a maingear leg, the other switch is a simple G-force switch in the fuselage.
Of course the calibration of this switch is much lighter to detect the moment but the principle is the same, a standard switch with a mass coupled with the paddle.

I am happy with a principle that works and do not want to fly with a plane with a switch of which I have to think please don't (switch off!)

Philips, sense and simplicity.

Please do not let it be a problem that I show this message black / white, because it is about safety!
Better do take a look what you can find about "cause and effect" and the "Ishikawa diagram"




Cees

Aurora_60

My Feedback: (1)

Cees,
Fromeco also offers a a pinned switches. Insert pin for off, remove for on. Nothing to move while airborne. They offer this add-on to regulators for running LiPo or the new 123 batt. and for the badger. I have heard of problems with the pin being too sensitive w/ the Badger switch. Those cases, the switch would not turn off. Again this is all preference. I still would take a no-switch install (remove batt. plug from rec.) over any switch for reliability. Unfortunately, that isn't always practical.

Heres the pinned switch add-on.
http://www.readyheli.com/Fromeco_Ari...frcpfj-634.htm

Taurus Flyer

Aurora_60,

This is an interesting subject and started with an observation of me in the other BA thread.

I do not know the brand and types of the switches they use, and that's not too important.
I only want to give a sign that the mainswitch is most important and any modification has risks and not anybody does know these details.

I do not have problems to show the switches on the outside of the plane, hidden in the surface.
Only gliders I mount them in the inside of the canopy, my electroglider does has a switchless installation as you do!

Orion as an example:

Mainswitch always ON direction the rearside, most foreign object come from the frontside. I did have bird collision too!
Load and Voltage check possible without removing the wing.
Input for the REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT plug to disconnect the servo of the retracts I remove the plug before take of.
Last push button to check the fuel level, indication by slow duty cycle LED in the canopy, cycle time about 0,5 sec, continue on 100 % fuel, off 0 %.

More I cannot say about this subject, there are no rules for that I think.
I think it is important as a checkpoint for new airplanes.
BTW a switch that does not switch is also very dangerous.
I look for good quality switches and always double pole.

Cees

dhal22

mike, i have been unable to find deltron here on RCU. any tips or an address for him? no hurry please.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

My Bad, try "SPLIT S"

dhal22

thx, will do.

8178

My Feedback: (17)

He must have changed his logon ID to Split S because I was correct the first time. His name is Dan.