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Rom air retracts manual requested

Old 03-22-2009, 12:25 PM
  #26  
degray
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

Ron, Thanks for sharing the photo...having this, along with a copy of the Rhom manual, if I can't figure it out then I need to take up another hobby. Don
Old 03-23-2009, 04:43 AM
  #27  
Johnkpap
 
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

Thankyou FB for the post of the manual !!!

It has answered a few of my questions and hopefully solve this one

Are these retracts ROM or another brand I have posted two photos they took hours to clean up and work very well, I think they date from the early 1970's or late 60's I have never seen another set the same.

Thanks

Johnkpap
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Old 03-23-2009, 08:47 AM
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NM2K
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

I don't remember Roms being made in red anodization, but they sure look like Roms otherwise. My bet is that they are Roms.


Ed Cregger
Old 03-23-2009, 10:54 AM
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

No problem guys, just trying to help the cause.....

FB
Old 03-23-2009, 04:23 PM
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

Johnkpap
Very interesting retracts, they are very similar but different from Rhoms. Will you let us know if you find out what they are. I bet you can use the Rhom manual because the design seems to be identical but the execution is different.
Old 03-23-2009, 05:31 PM
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degray
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

Ron, I tried your method for removing the end of the cylinder and it worked fine...Thanks. The nose-wheel cylinder is leaking air between the square end of the cylinder and the rod that connects to the piston and gear. the O-rings appear ok and I cleaned and applied silcon grease to both. The leak is only when the gear is in the down position, which make sense since that is when the high pressure is on the rod side. I does not appear that there is a seal or sleve between the end place and the rod...strange. Have you run across this before? Any advise from anyone will be appreciated. Don
Old 03-23-2009, 07:01 PM
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

degray, it's funny because that rod seal is the one spot I worried about the most and I never had a leak there. I did keep the rod as clean as possible. The retracts in my Phoenix 7 were used hard during the 1976 and 77 season (averaged 5 gallons of fuel a week and quite a few cans of freon. I only took the retracts apart over the winter for cleaning and oiling. Spring of 78 I quit RC and the Phoenix sat for over 30 years. I took the retracts apart and cleaned them and replaced the valve and tank and the darn things are good as new.
Oh yeah, I put a NIB OS 60 SR with flow through muffler (same motor I used in 70's) and DX7 in the Phoenix, it will rise from the ashes very soon. (I have a very sick smile on my face right now)
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Old 03-23-2009, 07:24 PM
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degray
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

Beautiful Phoenix. Did you use acrylic or Super Poxy paint? Guess I may have to come up with some type of seal for my nose gear. Any thoughts? Don
Old 03-23-2009, 10:05 PM
  #34  
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

I used catalyzed acrylic enamel, each color is one thin coat. The plane weighs 7 3/4 Lbs dry. I have no idea what that seal looks like inside, well now I do, I took one apart and seems use a packed seal. How to repack the gland is the question. With magnifier I could not see if the threaded portion would screw off or not, so I wrapped it with leather and used pliers and nothing came loose. Looks like the threaded portion and the block is one piece and the gland is pressed in. If I have a leak at the gland I would unscrew the rod from the (crank?) end and pull it through the block. I would cut Teflon tape about 1" long by 1/8" wide and like building a ship in a bottle try to get one turn around the inside of the gland. May work. Got to get back to painting my Yak.
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Old 03-23-2009, 10:46 PM
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

Thanks for the interest in my Early Red Retacts, I thought thay might be just be early Rhom but
I have been since told that they may be early Byron sold for ducted fan or eary Jet Models ones :- maybe
not as old as first thought.

Thanks

Johnkpap

Old 03-25-2009, 02:33 PM
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degray
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

Thanks for sharing the photo and the suggestion on using teflon tape. Been having some problems with my email server and just got back online. Don
Old 03-26-2009, 05:58 AM
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

Having problems with old Rhom retracts I put into a new Bluejay Utter Chaos. Guessing these things are in the 15-20 year old range. The bird they came out of was stored for about 15 years and then they layed in my storage another 3-4 years. Anyway the system is leaking. Can't tell if it is at the wheel cylinder or somewhere else. Pump up the system to 120 PSA, according to gage on small compressor, they cycle ok, but will not recycle without repumping up the system. Sound like air leaking around the control valve but it is new Robart and don't know how to check for a leak. Also replaced the old fill valve with new a Robart. Air tank is small Rhom and back behind wings where it is impossible to get to with out cutting into fuse decking. Cant tell if air coming from there. Really doesn't sound like leak coming from wheel cycinders, more in the area in the fuse around the control/fill valves. Anyone have any idesa?
Old 03-26-2009, 03:21 PM
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

I have a similar system...original Rom gears and cylinders with new Robart air kit (188VR) consisting of variable rate control valve, filler valve, small (14 1/2 ci) air tank and tubing. I also had a problem with the size of the air tank that comes with this kit. I was able to open up the fuselage behind the wing and fit it in. They call it "small" but is actually their middle size. The original Rom tank (4.625"x1.25" dia.) had about 4.7 ci and is about the size of Robart's X-small tank. This size tank, per discussions with Robart, would only last about 1 or 2 gear cycles. Since their variable rate control valve exhausts air from the system during each up/down cycle, the larger "small" tank is needed in order to get an acceptable number of gear cycles between air tank refills.
The best way to check for air leaks is to pump up the system and use soapy water or Windex (as someone else suggested) around all locations where there are O-rings as well as areas such as air line joints, etc. I have a leak also and it turns out to be around the nose-gear ram where it exits the air cylinder. Found it by spraying Windex. The noise you may be hearing from the control valve area could be the exhaust air or a leak at one of the line junctions. Try turning both of the rate needle valves clockwise until they close and test again. Don't over tighten. Good luck.
Old 03-27-2009, 05:56 AM
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

Just listening there is what sounds like a large air leak in the nose gear. This is a belly mount and I can't determine hos to remove the cylinder from the mounting bracket. I have given up on these and ordered three Spring air replacements. According to Bill at Spring Air they are same size as Rhoms and will fit the installation holes. I am anxious to get this thing in the air, but weather has been forbidding. Spring is a comin.
Old 04-10-2009, 08:22 AM
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Default RE: Rom air retracts manual requested

For anyone who might be interested the leak in these Rhoms turned out to be one of the air lines coming loose from crossing T in the wing. I finally connected the lines with the wing off and activating the retract kept hearing rush of air one way but not the other. Originally thought air was coming from the nose gear. The end of line for the mains was just below the sheeting so was not immediately visable. I finally saw the open end of the T but at first could not figure why I had a T connection there. I then replaced the T with a straight connection but only one side would operate. Finally, saw the small end of the line just below the sheeting. For the last two weeks I have cussed these things, ordered new spring airs, which finally arrived without a steering connection for nose, ordered a Robart nose gear but it hasn't arrived yet. When all along the problem was a disconnected air line. To justify my stupidity, all other times the wing was connected to the fuse so could not see the connections and the fact these Rhoms are very old I just naturally assumed they were faulty. Actually, they now work GREAT.
Old 08-11-2020, 05:45 PM
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i hate to resurrect an old thread but you deserve a big thank you...iim trying to set the pull pull steering and i knew the manual had info on that...happy landings

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