My T2A
04-07-2008, 11:20 AM
#51
RE: My T2A
Thanks Jeff, I use both 1/64 tape for the panel lines (easy to pull up if you make a mistake, and I have made several) and a .10 ZIG pen to make panel doors. Wing Mfg. just brought out the Pheonix V just before the show and havn't updated thier catalog yet. I just about have this bird done and am itching for it to come in. I was a little put off when he said no wood is included, but I use contest balsa on my sheeting and blocks anyway so why pay for something you don't use. You will have to make your own formers, but he has the templates in full size. It does come with a prenotched bellypan for the nose gear retract. It will be up to you how you mount the wing. I am planning to use three bolts like all my other pattern birds.
03-27-2010, 11:55 AM
#56
RE: My T2A
I like the clear canopy and pilots. I have to remember this paint scheme for my model. I have a Bob Smith T2A-40 in garage. Fibreglass fuselage with veneerskinned foam wings.
Jim
Jim
09-04-2012, 01:18 PM
#57
RE: My T2A
I'm just fishing this up tonight. Going to weigh and balance it. Hoping for good weather this weekend. I was a little off on how long it would take to finish. I still have my Deception to finish, I have a build thread on it also. I will post final pics later.
09-04-2012, 03:17 PM
#58
Senior Member
RE: My T2A
I had the Bobby Smith "PB Products" T2-A...one of the first batch he shipped back around 1972-73. I painted it with the Air Force Thunderbird paint scheme with K&B Superpoxy. The engine was a Webra Speed .61 and it had Kraft electric retracts. Snoopy was in the front seat and Woodstock was in the back. It was my first 'all-out' pattern plane and it flew really well....but unfortunately...not for long. Around 25 flights. I let the airspeed get too low and just stalled it as I turned final. Snoopy and Woodstock didn't even have time to punch-out. The only bad habit the T2-A had was rudder coupling on point rolls and knife-edge. Perhaps that was corrected in the later kits. Best of luck with yours.
JC AMA3042
JC AMA3042
09-09-2012, 10:52 AM
#61
RE: My T2A
It Flies
Flew it today and it took very minor trim and the CG is spot on. I had only one flight as the engine was a touch lean and angry clouds rolled in again. I did a few four point rolls and it didn't lose heading or altitude. Can't wait to get it back out and work with it. Ill go over it to make sure everything is still nice and tight.
David,
The Deception is next to be finished glassing. I have to finish up my pattern birds as I want to get into turbines next year.
Flew it today and it took very minor trim and the CG is spot on. I had only one flight as the engine was a touch lean and angry clouds rolled in again. I did a few four point rolls and it didn't lose heading or altitude. Can't wait to get it back out and work with it. Ill go over it to make sure everything is still nice and tight.
David,
The Deception is next to be finished glassing. I have to finish up my pattern birds as I want to get into turbines next year.
09-22-2012, 09:34 AM
#62
RE: My T2A
Well, I had to do some surgery to fit the Mac's Black Pipe. The stock muffler wouldn't supply enough muffler pressure when I was inverted. There is nothing like taking a Dremel to a painted fuselage. It works, now I can fly inverted and do negative manoevers.
09-23-2012, 05:53 AM
#64
RE: My T2A
edp that is just a gorgeous rendition of the T2A! You do excellent work. I would keep that in my stable forever. Get someone to video a good flight for us to see! Jon
10-18-2012, 05:54 PM
#68
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RE: My T2A
EDP - that's a fantastic looking T2-A. Absolutely perfect color scheme for that airframe, and extremely well executed. Great photos of her in action -kudo's to Lisa Z. Very nice to see pictures of these old school pattern planes in the air, especially when they look as nice as yours.
10-19-2012, 05:48 AM
#69
RE: My T2A
Cmgtech1
Thanks, It is put away untill Spring. Building season is underway now.
My Deception is in primer and I will be building a Illusion this winter. It will have a Rossi .61. E-flight retracts and Futaba Radio. I may be building a Tiporare 750 at the same time for Rick who's spray booth I'm using. I'll be getting them from Frequent Flier. I'll do a duel build thread.
I have decided to pass on turbines. I can build several pattern birds to the cost of just one jet.
I do have my Deception build as a thread also. I like doing them so I can relive the fun/horror of my builds. I hope they give someone new ideas as I have learned alot from other's threads.
Thanks, It is put away untill Spring. Building season is underway now.
My Deception is in primer and I will be building a Illusion this winter. It will have a Rossi .61. E-flight retracts and Futaba Radio. I may be building a Tiporare 750 at the same time for Rick who's spray booth I'm using. I'll be getting them from Frequent Flier. I'll do a duel build thread.
I have decided to pass on turbines. I can build several pattern birds to the cost of just one jet.
I do have my Deception build as a thread also. I like doing them so I can relive the fun/horror of my builds. I hope they give someone new ideas as I have learned alot from other's threads.
11-28-2012, 07:09 AM
#71
RE: My T2A
B&D retracts are alive and well!
I had Leo from Klass Kote help me with a replacment main mount. I had one leak when a side load was placed on it during taxi. This made for one, two wheel Bob Hoover landing. It did pop and lock just as I touched down This was on a new set I bought years ago at Toledo. After a few emails, I have a new mount at a fair price. I thought I was SOL, but they picked them up. I hope they will stock them at the Toledo Show again.
I had Leo from Klass Kote help me with a replacment main mount. I had one leak when a side load was placed on it during taxi. This made for one, two wheel Bob Hoover landing. It did pop and lock just as I touched down This was on a new set I bought years ago at Toledo. After a few emails, I have a new mount at a fair price. I thought I was SOL, but they picked them up. I hope they will stock them at the Toledo Show again.
11-28-2012, 09:26 PM
#73
RE: My T2A
I used and love K & B Super Poxy paints and primer. When they stopped manufacturing it if searched for a substitute for the White Super Poxy Primer and I found it here:
http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/kirker/primers.html
But instead of being white, it buff, or a light beige color and instead of mixing it 1:1 like Super Poxy it mixed 4:1 (4 parts primer to 1 part hardener) . It has to be reduced since it is only mixed 4:1 and is rather thicker than the old Super Poxy Primer. It fills and sands very easily. Another good thing is, remember the price of Super Poxy was between $4 and $5 per 2 oz cans, and it took 2 cans of primer to do one pattern plane. If you were able to buy a gallon it would have cost $160 where as this is $58.00 a gallon.
The catalyst is better now and only takes 1/4 as much as it did with Super Poxy. That's why it mixed 4 parts of primer to 1 part of catalyst.
This is exactly the same stuff as K & B Super Poxy Primer.
Frank
http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/kirker/primers.html
- [*]PERFECT PRIME is a two-component urethane primer designed for overall jobs that fills well and sands easily. It also gives excellent color holdout for all topcoats. Mix one gallon of Perfect Prime with one quart of UPC73 activator (4:1). [*]This two-component primer may be applied over old paint and body filler, and is ideal for block sanding. If using on bare metal or new metal, a self etching primer is recommended to be used before hand.[*]PERFECT PRIME may be tinted with any of Kirker’s ULTRA-GLO acrylic urethane enamel colors. Add 1 oz. of activated ULTRA-GLO color per quart of PERFECT PRIME, (or 4 oz. of activated color per gallon).[*]Mix Ratio 4 parts primer to 1 part catalyst 4 : 1[*]If mixed 4:1:1 with urethane reducer this will work as a wet on wet sealer[/list]
But instead of being white, it buff, or a light beige color and instead of mixing it 1:1 like Super Poxy it mixed 4:1 (4 parts primer to 1 part hardener) . It has to be reduced since it is only mixed 4:1 and is rather thicker than the old Super Poxy Primer. It fills and sands very easily. Another good thing is, remember the price of Super Poxy was between $4 and $5 per 2 oz cans, and it took 2 cans of primer to do one pattern plane. If you were able to buy a gallon it would have cost $160 where as this is $58.00 a gallon.
The catalyst is better now and only takes 1/4 as much as it did with Super Poxy. That's why it mixed 4 parts of primer to 1 part of catalyst.
This is exactly the same stuff as K & B Super Poxy Primer.
Frank
12-07-2014, 09:14 AM
#74
Finally I'm in the mood to repair my T2A. I had to avoid a full scale plane that took off w/o radioing ANYONE back in 2013. We have spotters along w/ a radio set to the airport. i dumped it in high weeds. No damage to the wings but the tail feathers another story.
There is no glass that crossed the seems aft toward the stab. Also none in the fin/fillet.
In the stab area, it looks tike only the epoxy/filler popped out.
I cut/ground out the tail post that wasn't very good in the first place.
I have cab-a-fill to mix w/ epoxy. What is the best way to add glass cloth and what weight? I have 3/4 oz and 6 oz.
12-07-2014, 04:59 PM
#75
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Here's what I would do.
For the bottom I would use several layers of 6oz cloth or better yet use 2 to 2.5 inch fiberglass tape usually 8.9oz, laying up the first layer with at least 1inch of overlap from the inside out folding over so that you have a surface to build up on.
The fiber glass tape has weaved edges that won't fray making the repair easer. Once that is done you can use the regular process of feathering the fiberglass on the outside than use varying patches that get smaller and smaller until built up enough that you can sand back to the original shape.
After the outside is back to shape you can trim/sand the excess off the inside if to heavy.
For the top if it's to thin to for you to to do an inside layup Cab-O-Sil is the right filler to use. I'd make up a mixture the consistency of peanut butter or icing then place if in a Ziploc baggie to use a cakebag. At the corner of the baggie cut it so you have a 1/16 to 1/8in hole then squish it into the gap along the top. You won't need a lot maybe at the most 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch deep into the crack.
Use strips of masking tap to hold if together with the last strip covering the entire length of the upper crack.
You can get the peal and stick sand paper and stick a peace to one side of a 1 or 2 inch putty knife to rough up the inside of the fuse enough to get a good bond when applying the epoxy layup on the bottom and on top so the Cab-O-Sil mixture will have a good surface to stick too.
There's no loss of structural strength with Cab-O-Sil, there is loss of structural strength with microballoons.
Show pics of the repair as you progress.
Regards
Bryan
For the bottom I would use several layers of 6oz cloth or better yet use 2 to 2.5 inch fiberglass tape usually 8.9oz, laying up the first layer with at least 1inch of overlap from the inside out folding over so that you have a surface to build up on.
The fiber glass tape has weaved edges that won't fray making the repair easer. Once that is done you can use the regular process of feathering the fiberglass on the outside than use varying patches that get smaller and smaller until built up enough that you can sand back to the original shape.
After the outside is back to shape you can trim/sand the excess off the inside if to heavy.
For the top if it's to thin to for you to to do an inside layup Cab-O-Sil is the right filler to use. I'd make up a mixture the consistency of peanut butter or icing then place if in a Ziploc baggie to use a cakebag. At the corner of the baggie cut it so you have a 1/16 to 1/8in hole then squish it into the gap along the top. You won't need a lot maybe at the most 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch deep into the crack.
Use strips of masking tap to hold if together with the last strip covering the entire length of the upper crack.
You can get the peal and stick sand paper and stick a peace to one side of a 1 or 2 inch putty knife to rough up the inside of the fuse enough to get a good bond when applying the epoxy layup on the bottom and on top so the Cab-O-Sil mixture will have a good surface to stick too.
There's no loss of structural strength with Cab-O-Sil, there is loss of structural strength with microballoons.
Show pics of the repair as you progress.
Regards
Bryan
Last edited by Roguedog; 12-07-2014 at 05:10 PM.