MK Wild Beat
#27

Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tokomaru, NEW ZEALAND
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Hello David
When I was last in Singapore I saw a wild beat kit and was considering buying it. In the end I decided it was too similar to the beetle so opted for the Dash5.
I would be interested in a scan of the wild beat plan if you get a chance to get one so I could compare the beetle to the wild beat side by side.
I have some suggestions for the build order and the adjustable tail section if you would like to hear them.
Cheers
Tarquin
When I was last in Singapore I saw a wild beat kit and was considering buying it. In the end I decided it was too similar to the beetle so opted for the Dash5.
I would be interested in a scan of the wild beat plan if you get a chance to get one so I could compare the beetle to the wild beat side by side.
I have some suggestions for the build order and the adjustable tail section if you would like to hear them.
Cheers
Tarquin
#28

Thread Starter

thanks Tarquin, those are probably the 2 areas i would have questions about. i haven't started yet due to needing a build a bigger table so, please, feel free to post here or via pm.
cheers to you too.
cheers to you too.
#29

Thread Starter

i finally got a temporary table big enough to lay the WB plans on and not have them hang over the edge. i saw where someone had put prebuilt kitchen cabinet bases under their work table. that is the plan here also. i sorted through the dozens and dozens of numbered pieces looking for a place to start. i was able to find enough nose pieces to do some fitting. simply amazing fit. this should be a pleasure to build. but i won't glue anything until i get a jig built.
#31

Thread Starter

i had to make a bigger jig for this plane. nothing permanent yet, i'm just fitting the pieces together. i'm not even sure if the jig will work. definitely a much bigger plane.
#32

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ORIGINAL: dhal22
more photos. i don't know why the previous photos are so blurry.
more photos. i don't know why the previous photos are so blurry.
nice start! I look forward to this one.
I've discovered that it is important to set the camera to Macro (look for the flower icon) mode when shooting up close. Also allow the camera to autofocus before shooting the picture. On my camera I basically hold down the shutter button, let it focus, and then press more to store the image on to the flash card. Making sure the white balance is set to the right type of lighting (fluorescent, incandescent) also helps to get proper color and contrast. Finally, you have to set the camera to the right sensitivity (ISO). I find that 200 works well for indoor lighting in the shop but sometimes I crank it up to 400. Higher than that and you probably don't have enough light and the picture will be grainy. Lower than 200 usually requires daylight.
When shot well, sharp close ups look great and the background goes nicely out of focus as desired - very cinematic!
David.
#33

Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tokomaru, NEW ZEALAND
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Hello David
Now that I look at the picture of the plan on the wall I see that the outline of fuselage is quite different to the beetle. I am sure that the build sequence will be similar still.
I would suggest that you ensure your chosen engine will fit the engine rails before gluing too much of the front end. I would also drill the rails while it is still easy to get in there.
You can follow the build procedure if there is one on the plan up until you get to the fin. Build the fin but dont glue it on. There are bits that need to gon in that you need for the adjustable tail.
It would be wise to make some kind of jig for the fin since it is a pain to hold straight. I didn't have one and wished I did.
About now you may want to switch to building the horizontal stab. It is really important to get the sweep angles right and that everything is square on the tail. The beetle structure is really flimsy until the sheeting is on.
I found I had to trim the plastic pivot boss to get the boss within the fuselage. It is important to get the adjuster to thread on square.
At this point you need to put all that asside and frame up the wings and this is where I went wrong. If you fit the tail adjuster and the fin to finish the fuselage then you have to try and match the wings to the tail. On all the other kits, scratch builds and ARF's I have always mounted the wings then the tail but on the beetle I followed the pictures on the plan without thinking ahead enough. It is obvious now but at the time it didn't even cross my mind.
That pretty much brings you up to what I know. If I think of anything else I will add it in.
Cheers
Tarquin
Now that I look at the picture of the plan on the wall I see that the outline of fuselage is quite different to the beetle. I am sure that the build sequence will be similar still.
I would suggest that you ensure your chosen engine will fit the engine rails before gluing too much of the front end. I would also drill the rails while it is still easy to get in there.
You can follow the build procedure if there is one on the plan up until you get to the fin. Build the fin but dont glue it on. There are bits that need to gon in that you need for the adjustable tail.
It would be wise to make some kind of jig for the fin since it is a pain to hold straight. I didn't have one and wished I did.
About now you may want to switch to building the horizontal stab. It is really important to get the sweep angles right and that everything is square on the tail. The beetle structure is really flimsy until the sheeting is on.
I found I had to trim the plastic pivot boss to get the boss within the fuselage. It is important to get the adjuster to thread on square.
At this point you need to put all that asside and frame up the wings and this is where I went wrong. If you fit the tail adjuster and the fin to finish the fuselage then you have to try and match the wings to the tail. On all the other kits, scratch builds and ARF's I have always mounted the wings then the tail but on the beetle I followed the pictures on the plan without thinking ahead enough. It is obvious now but at the time it didn't even cross my mind.
That pretty much brings you up to what I know. If I think of anything else I will add it in.
Cheers
Tarquin
#35

Thread Starter

thx guys. great tips. i will use them all. the camera advice sounds like we have the same camera. and i'm not ready to buy an engine for this project yet so i will switch to the stab/wing etc.
#38

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David,
Sounds like you might be looking at a 1.2 AX for a two stroke. Or perhaps a Webra?
I was thinking of building a 6' bird this winter but would like to keep it at 9 lbs AUW if possible. I was thinking of a piped .90 FX as an option.
David.
Sounds like you might be looking at a 1.2 AX for a two stroke. Or perhaps a Webra?
I was thinking of building a 6' bird this winter but would like to keep it at 9 lbs AUW if possible. I was thinking of a piped .90 FX as an option.
David.
#40

Thread Starter

david, i was thinking about looking at rear exhaust webras. arch, thx for the advice also. i was not aware the 1.40 was rear exhaust. cool, great option.
#41
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ORIGINAL: dhal22
Although retractable mains would throw them for a loop over there.
Although retractable mains would throw them for a loop over there.

#43

Thread Starter

ORIGINAL: mjfrederick
For what it's worth, I won the Advanced class at a contest last weekend with my retract-equipped plane!
ORIGINAL: dhal22
Although retractable mains would throw them for a loop over there.
Although retractable mains would throw them for a loop over there.

Ha! i love a retract equipped plane. it looks so much better. and the 1.40 OS might be the engine. thx again.
#44

My Feedback: (121)

Better hurry up and buy one (OS 1.40RX) if that's your choice. OS isn't making them anymore. They aren't shown anywhere in the 2010 Tower catalog, but the website indicates they have some (supplies are limited). Personally, I love the OS 140RX. The Webra is a very good engine also, but who is the US distributor??
Happy shopping,
Will
Happy shopping,
Will
#45

Thread Starter

yeah, i saw it. pricey, and the pipe ain't cheap either. plus a header. yikes! maybe i will wait for a used one to come up for sale.[sm=teeth_smile.gif]
#46

The North American distributor of Webra Engines is:
Cliff Swartz
SWIFT ELECTRONICS
735 Park Blvd.S.
WINNIPEG, MB, R3P 1B7
CANADA
Phone: 001 204 885 1860
Fax: 001 204 944 0170
Email: [email protected]
Cliff Swartz
SWIFT ELECTRONICS
735 Park Blvd.S.
WINNIPEG, MB, R3P 1B7
CANADA
Phone: 001 204 885 1860
Fax: 001 204 944 0170
Email: [email protected]
ORIGINAL: flywilly
Better hurry up and buy one (OS 1.40RX) if that's your choice. OS isn't making them anymore. They aren't shown anywhere in the 2010 Tower catalog, but the website indicates they have some (supplies are limited). Personally, I love the OS 140RX. The Webra is a very good engine also, but who is the US distributor??
Happy shopping,
Will
Better hurry up and buy one (OS 1.40RX) if that's your choice. OS isn't making them anymore. They aren't shown anywhere in the 2010 Tower catalog, but the website indicates they have some (supplies are limited). Personally, I love the OS 140RX. The Webra is a very good engine also, but who is the US distributor??
Happy shopping,
Will
#50

My Feedback: (121)

The OS 120AX and YS 115S are nowhere near enough power, but perfect options for your Silent ST (the new OS 110 Alpha would also be a good choice).
As for the OS 140RX - be patient and keep your eyes open for pattern fliers moving on to electric or YS DZ as they will be funding their new power options by selling off their old equipment. I just bought a used, very good 140RX, CF pipe and Mueller header for $350 from the gentleman selling his second 140 in RCU right now.
-Will
As for the OS 140RX - be patient and keep your eyes open for pattern fliers moving on to electric or YS DZ as they will be funding their new power options by selling off their old equipment. I just bought a used, very good 140RX, CF pipe and Mueller header for $350 from the gentleman selling his second 140 in RCU right now.
-Will