MK Wild Beat
#51

Thread Starter

i know. i'm in no hurry. i like Tarquin's advice about drilling the engine mount holes while the area is still open but the wing and stabs will keep me busy for awhile. plus i've got some painting to do once i get some primer.

#53

My Feedback: (121)

Webra is a great engine, too. And I much prefer the high speed needle on the carb. I ran a Bully 1.20 RE which was basically a Webra for 1100 flights and only replaced the glo-plug periodically (actually had a 2-plug head). How much is a new Webra 145 these days?
-Will
-Will
#55

Thread Starter

i decided to switch to other areas of the Wild Beat and put off purchasing an engine as long as possible. Tarquin, who is building a somewhat similar plane, the MK Beetle, recommended fitting the engine and drilling the mounting holes before too much work was completed on the fuse. here i'm doing the best i can to interpret the stab construction. i'm glad there are pictures to accompany the japanese writing. The WB has an adjustable stab (like the Beetle) and requires a little more work than a regular built up version.
#59

David,
I am not such a bad gay some people think, I am only not happy the way you use your measuring tools!
When I see your picture and the red circle I have to think about CHARLES WINTER!
Success.
Nice plane
Cees
I am not such a bad gay some people think, I am only not happy the way you use your measuring tools!
When I see your picture and the red circle I have to think about CHARLES WINTER!
Success.
Nice plane
Cees
#61

ORIGINAL: dhal22
ha, i'm caught using various items out of my tool box! some big sockets and that heavy brass coupling is what you are seeing.
ha, i'm caught using various items out of my tool box! some big sockets and that heavy brass coupling is what you are seeing.

I was thinking maybe CHARLES could use that heavy brass coupling to make a better ram-air intake for his twin. Have you two of them?
Cees
#63

Thread Starter

has anyone ever sheeted their built up wings by pregluing the skins and then ironing them on after the glue dries? it seems to work, in the last photo the joint stayed intact and the balsa failed around it. the wood was barely cool. i suspect it would be stronger after it cooled a bit more.
#65

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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Montreal,
QC, CANADA
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David,
What adhesive are you using? CA?
It sounds complicated to control the glue flow as there is no joint to bond until the parts are placed together. It seems to me that you'd also have to add considerable adhesive to make sure you have a bond everywhere you want one.
Any reason you don't just flow the adhesive at the joints with the sheeting pre-tacked and/or pinned? CA is great that way.
David.
What adhesive are you using? CA?
It sounds complicated to control the glue flow as there is no joint to bond until the parts are placed together. It seems to me that you'd also have to add considerable adhesive to make sure you have a bond everywhere you want one.
Any reason you don't just flow the adhesive at the joints with the sheeting pre-tacked and/or pinned? CA is great that way.
David.
#66

Thread Starter

whoops, i intended to mention the glue also. it is titebond 2 or any yellow wood glue. i rarely use CA. anyway the technique is for gluing the 2nd skin where you can't see the bond. preglue the ribs and skin, some have recommended a little food coloring to help see that you have good coverage, let the glue dry and then iron the skin to the ribs. that was a test i did and the joints are very strong. i've just never used the technique.
#68

Thread Starter

i've seen the technique used many times here on rcu but a search didn't bring up exact step by step instructions. so i did a test and asked for opinions. i don't think the glue reflows. the heat just fuses the it.
#70

Thread Starter

i learned of this due to guys using it specifically for bonding the 2nd side wingskin to a built up wing. i just tested/destroyed the remainder of my test piece and the bond held everywhere. the balsa failed at every joint.
#71

Thread Starter

i've got the stab almost finished. the 2 aluminum tubes are part of the future adjustable stab mechanics. the tubes are gorilla glued on one side and will be removable from the other side via screws in the blocks (from the bottom).