Very good idea! I was going to use 1/8" music wire

adios

A single push rod works just fine.

Alignment is important to have a model that flies "true" in pulls and pushes.

Sharpened carbon rods are taped to elevator, lots of epoxy is forced into music wire "u" connecting the elevator halves.

Good luck!

Rusty Dose
Team Futaba

Iflyg450. Sorry you had to endure all thet to get your answer, but it was funny as hell. It was like an old Abbott and Costello routine. Now whats the problem? You want to controll two elevator halves with 3 servos?..........stir stir.

Are you meaning to say that you want to use a single pushrod on two elevators...!@?

Never heard of it before. It must not be possible.



David.

I don't even remember the question. [] No I got it all sorted out thank you. Mark this date on your calander and remember where you were, because today I invented the one pushrod two eleavator system and they say theirs nothing left to invent I was thinking next I would create this device its a stick with a rubber hose over it, it would be used to start a model airplane engine. I think I'll call it a chicken stick. So what have you invented latley

I always make the bends at least 1 1/2 inches past the ele. half end this way it allows some room for glassing I will also drill the hole in the ele. bigger then the rod this allows for adjustment before the epoxy dries and also makes for a "hard pocket" so the wire will not poke through the balsa at some time. also sand the heck out of the wire with at least 120 grit sandpaper this makes for a rough surface so the epoxy can grip. Hope this helps.

You sure did get loads of replies to your ? Many where not even what you asked, interesting. I have built many many planes over past 60 years, now a young 84. Have done elevators in every way possible and have not found anything wrong with using the joiner wire other then getting both halves aligned. Go for it.

Agree I have never had problems with the joing wire, my question was just how wide. I did like the idea of drilling the hole a tad bit larger to get more glue, I normally used a Hysol product we use on our Gulfstream biz jets. We call in liquad shime. I could glue your car to the road with it. It hardens so much that you can chuck in a lathe and machine it.

I sandwich mine in a laminate of plywood, 1/64th for a bearing on the side, 1/8th for the wire up and down bearing and then another 1/64th. Have to figure where the wire is going to be on the surface and then whack it in two and build up this laminate. This makes 'em hold up to thousands of flight on C/Liners. That glue sounds like some real tough stuff.
Chris...

Next to the "which oil is best in my gas engine?" topic I really enjoyed this thread. :-) Seriously, glad you got it figured out.

I'm outta here.
Crank

Nice set up

But its to late to do that. To get the rod supports in the plane I have now, I had to cut a section of the fiberglass fuelage out then build a bulk head in three sections in the tube. Kind of like building a ship in a bottle. To do that now I would have to ruine a VERY BEAUTIFUL PAINT JOB.

What Crank is showing you is a non supportive system.

It basically floats in your fuse with three (3) contact points .

The two (2) horns on the elevator halves and one (1) the servo arm. It’s not supported in the fuse.

It has been used in FG fuses with great success during this era of patternships.

You wouldn’t need to cut your FG fuse in any way , except for making another slot on the other side of the fuse for the second rod.

Dave Brown offers a kit to make this Y configuration. Great Planes makes nice covers for the slots to give a streamlined cover and some alignment, and support for the rods.

Just a little more info and clarification.

iflyg450

For a scratch builder it is no problem to mount a prefabricated pushrod in a fuselage after we are ready with the paint job even we use small drillholes.
Experience is most important to win the game but you have to keep on learning.

Picture of the Wester Taurus, feedtrough of the rudder pushrod.

Cees

.......</p>

I'm outta' here.

I am not saying you are wasting my time. I don't know how mant time I need to say your idea is great. So I guess you have never flown a plane that used a joining wire?
Will someone please tell me how to make a time machine so I can go back and remove this stupid post. What was I thinking asking a simple question.


who ever is in charge please remove this thread!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I have fished rods by inserting nyrod outersfrom the rear to the front until it comes out far enough to see. Then I put the ends in the nyrod outersand use them as aguideto make the rods come out the holes. LOTS faster than poke and pray!

.......</p>

No its not a conversation it was a question. The conversation whould started with the tittle "What ido you guys think is the besy way to set up an elavator control system" The question was ELEAVATOR JOINING WIRE QUESTION. I came here looking for a simple answer, instead I have been told that my way is wrong and your way is better. The best way to have gone about this would have been. "The joiner wire works just fine make it this wide ____, if you want on the next plane you build think about this set up. Good luck great looking plane." Then I would of replied "Thats a great system will do it on the next one I build, Thanks for your time."



DA 20 as in diamond star correct? Thats a very fine aircraft. I have never had a chance to fly one. I do more then Fly G450 please don't think I am a snob, just very passionate about gulfstream products. I am not just some pilot. I turned a wrench on them for 6 years. I still turn wrenches on many types of warbirds on the side.

iflyg450,
Only solutions are simple, leaving away as much as possible.
My chicken stick

Cees

What's an elevator???????????????????

Tcat

Your joiner wire will work just fine. If you notch the leading edge of each elevator for your wire, then you won't need a hinge at the fuse end of each elevator. What I like to do is add two small brass tubes to the wire, align the elevator to the stab, and then glue the small brass tubes to the fuse sides, one on each side of the fuse. This will give you a bearing for the wire to turn in on each side of the fuse. I have raced Formular 1 racing planes with fiberglass fuse and this is how I did them. Never had a flutter in a elevator. Those planes would do 175MPH in the straight away. Good luck......

Larry

Go for it IFly, keep the bit through the fuselage as short as you can, less possible torsional twist that way, keep the hinge and horn close together, even bolt the horn through the inner hinge if you can, don't use piano wire, I prefer the sort of wire they use to hang suspended ceilings, quite soft so you can align the elevators if you get the thing slightly out of line, but way stiff enough for any flying you might do without tearing the elevators while you are twisting them. Just slot the leading edge of the elevators to bury the wire, epoxy them together then wrap a bit of film around the leading edges of the elevator to keep the epoxy off the tailplane as it's curing and seal it down after to keep the oil out of the wood. So long as you have a big enough hole through the fuselage so it won't bind it is the simplest and most reliable method around. You only need tricky two pushrod/'Y' setups when the elevator hinge lines are not in a straight line, one side to 'tother.
Evan, WB #12.