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K&B paint on plugs?

Old 07-08-2006, 11:51 PM
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myersflyers
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Default K&B paint on plugs?

Need a little advise on what's the best method to prep a couple of epoxy coated plugs for creating molds.

The plugs are finished with K&B paint and I'm trying to decide on the best way to polish the
plugs to a mirror finish in preparation for molding with Fiberglast 1099 tooling resin.

Also, anyone know if putting WEST SYSTEMS Graphite powder in the tooling resin before adding
the hardener is ok? I don't have any black pigment for the 1099 tooling resin and would like to use
WEST SYSTEMS Graphite powder to just get it to a nice gray color.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
Old 07-09-2006, 01:39 AM
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davidfee
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Default RE: K&B paint on plugs?

I've had very good luck using automotive polishing products on my plugs. If you have a lot of orange peel, start with wet sanding.

WEST graphite powder will work fine in your tooling resin.

-David
Old 07-09-2006, 02:20 AM
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XJet
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Default RE: K&B paint on plugs?

Yes, graphite powder works very well and makes it much less likely that you'll get a layup sticking to tbe mold later.

The only downside of graphite is that it becomes much more difficult to fix small chips or holes in the mold because new resin won't stick to it at all well.

Mind you, they turn out so slipery (with the graphite) that molds made like this last a very long time anyway.
Old 07-09-2006, 12:41 PM
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myersflyers
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Default RE: K&B paint on plugs?

Thanks alot for the reply guys. I'm off to the races.

David, Can you recommend any specific polishing compound for epoxy paints or will any
decent auto polishing compound work?

Thanks,
Keith
Old 07-10-2006, 08:22 AM
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davidfee
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Default RE: K&B paint on plugs?

Well, I've used a variety of products... all from the auto parts store. I've used No 7 White Polishing Compound, followed by a clearcoat-safe compound from 3M.

HTH,
-David
Old 07-10-2006, 08:33 PM
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hoofty
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Default RE: K&B paint on plugs?

The type of paint and methods used are not as important as the finish. If your unsure, keep buffing!

I have used everything from Krylon rattle cans to aircraft grade epoxy primers, to high gloss automotive paint. all worked well. Just never try to use LusterKote, it peeled right off when I tried to buff it. Even after 12 hours post curing in the 100 degree Texas sun. The most important things are the glossy finish, a good quality wax (several coats), and a quality release agent (like PVA).
Old 07-11-2006, 01:14 PM
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myersflyers
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Default RE: K&B paint on plugs?

Thanks David and Hoofty.

David, I picked up the White Polishing Compound and the clearcoat-safe compound and used them
seems to work pretty well.

Hoofty that Lustrekote is a unique paint. I like it, but I don't like it. Goes on nicely, nice color match,
but too soft and doesn't polish well. I use it only as a finish kote, sanded with 1000 and clear coated
with PPG.

One more question for anyone reading. This is my first time using Dolphin wax. No instruction on
the can or with the order. What the best application method for this wax (i.e. temperature, coats,
removal timing, etc.) Just thought I'd ask before contacting H&M Racing.

Thanx,
Keith
Old 07-11-2006, 10:48 PM
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davidfee
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Default RE: K&B paint on plugs?

On Dolphin wax: Yes, it's a nice wax. Is it the end-all, be-all? I don't know. You'll read lots of praises... but my first part made with the stuff stuck in the mold. It was an old mold... with dozens of parts having previously been pulled from it. I didn't clean the mold first with acetone or anything... just applied the dolphin wax over the existing wax. Anyway, I learned something from that experience.

When I first got my dolphin wax, it was very soft... with lots of solvent smell. It has since gotten a lot stiffer, since the lid doesn't seal air-tight and the solvents have slowly evaporated. The instructions I was given stated that it should be wiped on and wiped off... without allowing it to dry on the mold surface. In other words, don't wait for a haze to form (it will be very hard to buff out). Because of the relatively high initial solvent content, it is my feeling that I basically wiped the wax clean off the mold surface in the area that stuck (it was a raised portion of the mold).

Now that I've terrified you:
Dolphin wax works just fine, and it does work as advertized. I would suggest that each application be allowed to "dry" for 30 minutes or so before going back for the next application. You should apply 8-10 coats on any new plug or mold... I don't care what you hear elsewhere... I don't want to hear that your plug stuck in the mold when you got in a hurry and gave up after only applying "one or two coats" of wax. Let the wax "dry" for at least a couple hours before painting. It's good to let the solvents outgas... and it probably ensures a better barrier.

I apply the wax with torn up strips of old t-shirts. I also wipe/buff with clean strips of old t-shirts. It works for me.

Good luck,
-David

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