Hye Flyer

I decided to build this particular plane because it was the only plane my dad and I build together in the 70’s (I believe it was in ‘76 or ‘77). It took me quite awhile to even find the name since the OZ didn’t have it (I must have looked though every C/L plane on that site). I finally found it on eBay and was happy…. At first. The guy selling was good enough to send me a scale PDF rather than paper. After importing this into the drawing program, thats when it became apparent it was ‘near scale’ and not a scale set of plans. A few 1000 hours later (LOL) I have everything needed to fulfill the dream of reliving my youth. :-)

I call this scratch built because I redrew all the parts in CAD before I cut them out with the laser. I even cleaned up the plans (not available on OZ yet) as they were not to scale as advertised. Now they are and with a few improvements over the original Brave. First off all those fuselage tabs were eliminated save for the inner doublers and front two plywood formers. I also adjusted the ribs for a standard 3/4” leading edge and 1/4 x 1 trailing edge (both get notched). The wing is 1/4” wider than the slot in the Fuse so that was also adjusted to fit. The plans I had (supposedly redrawn to scale) still had the cutout for the older wing with that huge leading edge. On this build, i had already cut the fuselage sides before noticing since it became obvious when I test-fitted the wing in the fuselage. And speaking of the fuselage, the F3 on these plans I purchased have the F3, F5 & 6 the wrong widths… the F3 as I cut it per the plans didn’t even set on the inside of the doublers it was so narrow. Fixed all that too so when I offer the plans on OZ, they will be ready with hopefully less guessing and massaging needed.

What is nice about cnc laser cutting is things fit correctly. For example i made sure the 1/4” spar fit in the notch on the rib… with minimal sanding necessary.. stuff like that. Not perfect, but more better. (Pubic school attendee)

Hope you enjoy the build as much as I enjoyed creating the parts and now doing the build.









Here is an example of what I meant by having to fix stuff on the ‘scale’ plans.. note the Formers, Especially F3

GREG DOE

I believe the Veco Warrior plans are readily available on OZ. The Brave is the same airplane less the flaps.

rgburrill

Looks to me like F3 is the same width as F5. And F5 is narrower than F4. Wouldn't be the first time the front cockpit is narrower than the back one.

Hye Flyer

When measuring the fuselage formers in the top view, F3 - F6 are same width

Hye Flyer

yes, it is suppose to be the same plane w/o the flaps. Found that out after I got these…. Thought I’d work of what was suppose to be the original scale plans. LoL

rgburrill

The top view looks like it was added to the manufacturer's drawing. Looking at the manufacturer's drawing of the front of the bulkheads they are definitely NOT the same width. You really need to look at F5 to the firewall.

Hye Flyer

My mystery solved: I just happen to have a kit (for sale on eBay) and I measured the formers. F3 through F5 are the same width. 2.2”
F6 Measure 2.08”. F2 Measured 2.08” & F1 measured 2.01”

I will leave my F1 through F5 at 2.2” and redeaw F6 at 2.0”. I will also address this in the CAD plans before posting them.

Hye Flyer

Finished the wing… and the fuselage mocked-up well after resizing the formers… should go smoothly from here on out
















I also reinforced the formers with some cross-grain support as a couple formers bowed when under pressure from Fuselage taper.

Hye Flyer

Obviously scratch builds lack the hardware kits…. Lol.
















We don’t need no stinkin’ hardware kits.





Also began gluing up the fuselage








And then i decided to cut a template out of 1/8” ply for my McCoy 35 RedHead… makes it easy to locate the mounting holes. I think I will make a template for each engine I have.

Hye Flyer

While waiting for the braided lead outs to arrive, I drew some CAD images and printed them out on weatherproof self-adhesive vinyl..
















I used the Brave character off both the older and the later set of plans… love choices. I do plan on making more on clear vinyl rather than the white for the nose art




I’ve used KlassKote high gloss clear to fuel proof them. Works great.

Hye Flyer

Did a bit more on the Brave

Leadouts came in





Testing the length of the control linkage


while looking at the plane sitting on my vacuum forming machine… i decided to see if i could successfully draw and laser cut the cockpit openings in the 1/8” sheeting…


Using Velcro straps I let the balsa dry in place

donnyman

This is my second one I built my first in the 1950's

Built from the kit. been hanging there a long time.
Enjoy your build.

Hye Flyer

Nice Donny… i wish I had put flaps on now that I see yours…. Next build. LOL.

donnyman

I envy your ability to cut parts all my cutting is done manually, scratch building is my favored method of building. just as I was drawing up the parts for a f-14 I switched to the Linux op system and could not run the Autocad program on it. I have a lot of balsa and ply stocked up but age and my health has slowed me down quite a bit ........ anyway if you need plans or whatever check with me I may be able to save you some time and cost.

I have a blog on RC groups, check it out to see some of my work, .......................... stay in touch!


one corner of my shop

Hye Flyer

Would be happy to trade out stuff for cutting any parts you need….

Hye Flyer

Almost ready too cover wing and begin final stages of finish… then I got sidetracked drawing from scratch a profile PT 19 that is in the .15 to .19 engine range… then got sidetracked once again when a fellow flyer wanted some .049 Japanese warbirds (the Kawasaki “Tony”, & Nakajima “Kate” and “Jill” - all short kits now available on eBay). So now we’re traveling for Christmas and then vacation over New Years…. Won’t be back to begin to finish my tribute Brave until end of January…. I’m already eager for vacation to be over and we haven’t even left yet. LOL

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all
Pete
VintagePlaneKits



Veco Brave Scratch Build ready for finish




Laying out the fuselage on the new PT19 profile scratch design

Wing is 90% finished… had to alter the wingtips a bit as I forgot to allow for the 1/4” sq leading edge when drawing them.



and my final THREE diversion from the brave. LOL



This is the KATE laid out - test fitting

The Tony… was fund to draw and cut

I did the Jill too and I almost forgot about the 1955 Pirate a customer ask me to draw and cut…



Had to redraw much as this was only ‘near’ scale but that is the beauty of the scratch build… close is close enough. LOL

donnyman

I have been lurking and am jealous of the metal top table with the magnet setup, If I ever get back into shape a metal table top with magnets is planned.

Have you advanced with your bird?

Hye Flyer

I might even get around to covering this Veco Brave… I have built and cut kits for folks, now I am setting aside time for myself. LOL

will document the rest of the build and not so much “other info” . I get sidetracked fairly easily.

Hye Flyer

so I think the moisture in the air caused the mdf to warp… i will now have to build a small torsion box table top then either bolt down or glue down the mdf flat. The contact cement i used was professional grade and it isn’t gonna let that nice sheet of steel loose… bummer… so if you are wanting to do similar, I would recommend going to a door shop and having them make you a hollow core door (torsion box type setup) and use that as flat surface to glue steel down to…. It would be nice and flat and lighter to boot.

donnyman

Over thirty years ago I bought hollow core doors and they still serve me well I haven't even flipped them over. one has a cheap but thick glass surface and I want to try magnets so steel is in my future. I don't think I will screw it down.

Hye Flyer

use high quality contact cement on both surface of steel sheet and door. I used a roller to ensure it was even (no lumps) then stood wood on edge, then steel on edge and scooted the bottoms together holding the the tops apart then slowly pushed together from bottom up evenly. It is definitely a one and done application. LOL

donnyman

I often move my tables for my convenience, a permanent topping would hinder this, therefore I will use metal of sufficient thickness to negate unevenness yet retain it's flatness.

Hye Flyer

I am finally covering The Brave. (Had a few more projects creep in…. Like knocking out a Big Otto).











And of course that which slowed me down (or one of the things )

Hye Flyer

I just need to add the decals and fly it…. So basically I need to focus on The Brave.. now waiting for its second coat of clear dope on the silk.

Hye Flyer

So after three coats of tautening nitrate dope on real silk, i still have many wrinkles (which were not there before doping). I know I put the silk on nice and tight. Don’t remember it being so wrinkly back in the day when doping real silk. Gonna give it a few days to completely cure in the heated office room and see where I’m at. Might just be the need to us tautening butyrate dope (which takes even longer to cure. Lol)