Trouble with a Nobler ARF
#1

Couple weeks ago I picked up a Nobler arf at a swapmeet. The elevator has twice the up as down. The flaps on the other hand are fine.
I took the two screws out to remove the wing but that only gave me 3/4 inch gap between the wing and fuselage. The elevator linkage wouldn’t allow the wing to move down anymore than that. The dowel in the LE of the wing wouldn’t allow me lift up the front of the wing to access the clevis’s I need to get to. I used a dremel tool to shorten the dowel hoping to be able to clear the hole in the bulkhead. No luck.
I will attempt to upload some photos.
Ive looked for assembly instructions for this model and for builds but haven’t found anything yet. Hoping someone else has been there.
Any help appreciated.



I took the two screws out to remove the wing but that only gave me 3/4 inch gap between the wing and fuselage. The elevator linkage wouldn’t allow the wing to move down anymore than that. The dowel in the LE of the wing wouldn’t allow me lift up the front of the wing to access the clevis’s I need to get to. I used a dremel tool to shorten the dowel hoping to be able to clear the hole in the bulkhead. No luck.
I will attempt to upload some photos.
Ive looked for assembly instructions for this model and for builds but haven’t found anything yet. Hoping someone else has been there.
Any help appreciated.



#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)

It looks like the flap control horn is not perpendicular to the flaps...?
If so then I suspect that is a failed silver solder joint.
Worse case..... you will have to decide where to knife in to the turtle deck to gain access to the control linkage.
The control horns are supposed to be silver soldered [some pewople call it silver brazing] to the torsion rod..this means lots of heat.
I've made these linkage pieces with a propane / mapp gas torch....on a work bench.but never would attempt it while installed on a plane.
Well I'm making these assumptions based on a photo that I'm not 100% sure what I am actually seeing.
Good luck and hopefully someone will chime in with one of those "been there, done that" solutions.
If so then I suspect that is a failed silver solder joint.
Worse case..... you will have to decide where to knife in to the turtle deck to gain access to the control linkage.
The control horns are supposed to be silver soldered [some pewople call it silver brazing] to the torsion rod..this means lots of heat.
I've made these linkage pieces with a propane / mapp gas torch....on a work bench.but never would attempt it while installed on a plane.
Well I'm making these assumptions based on a photo that I'm not 100% sure what I am actually seeing.
Good luck and hopefully someone will chime in with one of those "been there, done that" solutions.
#3

Cut the wing dowel to get access to the clevis that will allow the wing to come off the fuselage.
found the flap wire to be loose, not soldered properly and also at an odd angle. I’ve removed all the flap hinges which were fairly old anyway. Planning to replace the wire assembly.
Im planning to replace the wing dowel and also cut a vertical slot in the fuselage former just aft of the wing so I’ll have more “wiggle room “ to close the flap horn clevis when I reassemble.


found the flap wire to be loose, not soldered properly and also at an odd angle. I’ve removed all the flap hinges which were fairly old anyway. Planning to replace the wire assembly.
Im planning to replace the wing dowel and also cut a vertical slot in the fuselage former just aft of the wing so I’ll have more “wiggle room “ to close the flap horn clevis when I reassemble.


#5


Just so you know that lead/tin solder will not hold. If you can't locate a new horn yours must be brazed, or silver soldered. If you repair yours, and don't have, or want to invest in the torch and the materials find a good plumber, or air conditioning technician.
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cyclops2 (01-01-2023)