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Trouble with a Nobler ARF

Old 12-23-2022, 07:28 AM
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Default Trouble with a Nobler ARF

Couple weeks ago I picked up a Nobler arf at a swapmeet. The elevator has twice the up as down. The flaps on the other hand are fine.
I took the two screws out to remove the wing but that only gave me 3/4 inch gap between the wing and fuselage. The elevator linkage wouldn’t allow the wing to move down anymore than that. The dowel in the LE of the wing wouldn’t allow me lift up the front of the wing to access the clevis’s I need to get to. I used a dremel tool to shorten the dowel hoping to be able to clear the hole in the bulkhead. No luck.
I will attempt to upload some photos.
Ive looked for assembly instructions for this model and for builds but haven’t found anything yet. Hoping someone else has been there.
Any help appreciated.




Old 12-24-2022, 07:37 PM
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It looks like the flap control horn is not perpendicular to the flaps...?
If so then I suspect that is a failed silver solder joint.
Worse case..... you will have to decide where to knife in to the turtle deck to gain access to the control linkage.
The control horns are supposed to be silver soldered [some pewople call it silver brazing] to the torsion rod..this means lots of heat.
I've made these linkage pieces with a propane / mapp gas torch....on a work bench.but never would attempt it while installed on a plane.
Well I'm making these assumptions based on a photo that I'm not 100% sure what I am actually seeing.
Good luck and hopefully someone will chime in with one of those "been there, done that" solutions.
Old 12-25-2022, 03:43 PM
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Default Cut the wing dowel

Cut the wing dowel to get access to the clevis that will allow the wing to come off the fuselage.
found the flap wire to be loose, not soldered properly and also at an odd angle. I’ve removed all the flap hinges which were fairly old anyway. Planning to replace the wire assembly.
Im planning to replace the wing dowel and also cut a vertical slot in the fuselage former just aft of the wing so I’ll have more “wiggle room “ to close the flap horn clevis when I reassemble.



Old 12-31-2022, 06:33 PM
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Mystery Solved!
Found the access I needed under the canopy, under the Pilot.

Old 01-01-2023, 05:11 PM
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Just so you know that lead/tin solder will not hold. If you can't locate a new horn yours must be brazed, or silver soldered. If you repair yours, and don't have, or want to invest in the torch and the materials find a good plumber, or air conditioning technician.
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Old 08-11-2023, 06:32 AM
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As have been said above ...sweet solder does not hold!! And the gap between wing and flap seems to be a little bit too large.
Old 10-10-2023, 05:51 PM
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I’ve been reading this post I bought the Nobler Top Flight ARF? The hobby shop was going out of business. Sold it for $125.00+tax. I have not started the kit. So I will check them control horns, great heads up, looking st the photos my bet is that control rod that goes from the flap to the elevator is bent. My Veco Warrior had an issue like your explaining it was bent up and hit a fuselage former. I messed up the z bend and the rod was too thin. Should have done a 90 degree bend like I did at the flap. Great postAJ.
Old 10-22-2023, 03:11 PM
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I was reading your post again about this ARF top flight Nobler. I NOTICED something where your bell crank attaches to your flap control its on the top hole of the control horn that should be going to the elevator and the flap on the lower. Position my control horns have 4 holes. You can adjust the control throw by selecting different holes
between the flaps and the elevator. Maybe the PO was experimenting a little.AJ
Old 10-30-2023, 06:37 AM
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I have been looking into starting a build on the Nobler or the Suoer Ringmaster. Been looking at both kits The Nobler is the TopFlight ARF and the Super Ringmaster Is a laser cut kit, looks like it was Modeled after the Sterling kit. But Laser cut. Your right the Flap is attached to the top hole my mistake, did you ever get that used Nobler Flying? AJ.
Old 11-04-2023, 08:14 AM
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When I was deciding which plane to start building. I looked at the Top Flight Nobler and decided to build the Super Ringmaster. I did look at the ARF Nobler and seen several issues. Cut the Mona Cote away so I could see the bell crank and trimmed a little wood. The mounts was wood kinda thin I thought but was glued on each corner and you could move the bell crank up and down not high enough to hit the wing rib but it was sure close. The fuselage covered the trimmed area so I cut away some more covering and Balsa to see the nut arrange ment on the bell crank no glue was on the wood mount only the top was glued. Any way to my way of thinking that part gets more abuse and pressure applied including the control surfaces. AJ
Old 12-20-2023, 07:47 AM
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Well I looked at the Top Flight ARF Nobler again the flap and elevator actuator rods are not soldiered correctly. Only one side. And the Bellcrank was lose I changed the bell crank mount used thicker ply, the old mount really came out easily. Number 11 exacto blade. Not good. I wonder how many ARF Noblers have failed. And not reported. Life expectancy on an ARF is in the area of one hour of flight, wonder how true this is? AJ
Old 01-02-2024, 05:53 AM
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This is crazy. I bought a borescope from harbor freight. And trying to use it or learn how to use it, read the directions several times and it works. Thru my IPad. That ARF Top Flight Nobler. I found two rear formers had no glue that I could see. And the entire plane had only spots of clear glue. May
be they used CA. Hard to tell. Any way I was very surprised and that borescope is really nice. Some parts had shiny spots probably CA.AJ

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