Wing tip weight? Also, anyone flying c\l in northwest Ohio?
 

I am building a 1\2a profile cl with a 26" flat sheet wing. The plans say to add wingtip weight but does not say how much. Any ideas fellows?

What I do is balance the lead outs. More weight doesn't do much.

The idea I use is to start by balancing half the weight of the flying lines.

Since we "carry" half the weight of the lines, at least in level flight, the model "carries" the other half, at the tip leadout guides.

No fancy laboratory scales needed. Just balance the model on its fuselage centerline - usually that will be with it upside down on a flat surface. Get an empty reel like the one your lines are on.

Lay the reel with lines halfway from the fuse center to the leadout guides - inboard panel, obviously...

Put the empty reel the same distance out from the fuse centerline on the outboard panel. Add tipweight until the model is balanced, or VERY slightly outboard-heavy.

At least, this will be close - not too much which has its own problems, nor too little, which might cause the model to roll in toward the center, lose pull, and crash.

The reason for the empty reel on the outboard wing is to cancel the weight of the other reel, so you just counterbalance half the line weight. Same weight at half distance acts like half the weight at full distance. The old see-saw heavy kid / light kid situation.

I would just put the lines and handle on the plane, both the handle and line suspended off the ground, balance model at centerline by adding tip weight just until the outboard wingtip falls.

Any starting point in grams or oz for a 1\2a cl plane?

I think I used two nickels once.

Why the handle?

Kurt

You wouldn't need the handle but the handle gives you something to clip the lines onto. I've done this method on several planes and it works fine. What you want is the plane flying with wing in line with the flying lines when it's flying. If you don't put any weight, the outboard wing can lift and the plane can fly in on you. Too much weight and the outboard wing dips to the outside and you're not flying clean. So that's why I like to just go out to the field and figure out how much I need with the lines on, balancing the plane on the centerline.

There pennies should be about right. Remove one if too much.

Half A's used a couple of pennies way back in the day. But that was before they changed from copper to the lighter metal used today. So three should be about right.

I recall something like that when I was about 13 got the plane bug at an early age. And did my first flying with a Cox Thimble Drone PT 19. My first plane I built was the profile Ring master used Fox 35 Stunt. And flew at the McCord AFB in Washington. An AF Tsgt seen my Ringmaster was flying left wing low. I only added 2 Oz fuel in my 4 Oz tank.It was the last bit of fuel I-had brought. He asked me if I added weight to the outboard wing. I said what? I had my instructions and never read the part about adding 1 Oz of weight to balance my lines. They were 55 feet from the bell crank. That part I read. The Sgt I cannot recall his name,but we were and became good friends he was my mentor. A flight engineer-on a 124 Globemaster. I even got a tour At McCord. When I got older I became flight engineer on the 727 and DC-8. I was a bit confused about the way you determined the added wing weight. But it’s all about the line weight and length. So I understand adding the reel with the line on the left wing and adding just an empty reel on the right wing then adding weight until the plane balances wing tip to wing tip. That is sure an easy way to do it. Now my next question. I plan on building my second bi-plane a larger version of the Flying fool. A Pat Treedle design. It’s larger and calls for a 40 to 50 size UC engine. I assume I would add the weight to the upper wing, is that correct?AJ.

Been brain storming this counter weight issue concerning a Bi Plane. The Flying fool. The upper wing placing upside down according to this theory placing the reel loaded with thimbles half way on my upper wing. Taking the plane vertical tail down and the prop hub I assume is setting with the plane level. And placing an empty plastic reel half way on the right wing! I am getting two different readings by doing the same on the bottom wing (adding more weight)Than I did with the inverted top wing. It’s much shorter than the top wing on the Flying Fool. I built the original Flying Fool back in the late 60s and crashed it when the top wing came off and took the left strut which held the control leadouts. I was doing an out side figure eight when that happened. It busted the prop when the top wing hit it resulting in a totaled Flying Fool. What surprised me it did not hurt my Fox Stunt 35. Just some sand and dirt in the Venturi and the cylinder head,no muffler on my very early fox. I attached the wing weight to the right strut. On the out side. I felt that was my mistake should have attached the weight on the inside of the strut. I never found the weights after it crashed. Only the white tape from one weight. I was stationed in Hawaii with the Army. AJ.