rivas8409

My Feedback: (1)

I have a Pulse XT40 with a Power 46, 60 AMPESC, and the biggest battery I run it with is a 4S 5000mAh Turnigy LiPo. I also use 2 4S 2200mAh LiPo's in parallel on it. Currently everything is EC3. Well this past weekend at the field flying the 2 4S's in parallel the connector on the ESC side started to melt and actually fused with the battery end. None-the-less, I was able to pull them apart and didn't put the Pulse back in the air the rest of the day. Now that I have to replace both connectors I'm wondering if I should change them all to EC5. Any opinions? I'm thining EC5 for 40+ size and the EC3 forsmaller models.Another question- does anyone know what size battery HK starts using 10 guagewire?

dribbe

Probably a bad solder joint on the back side of the connector.... The connectors themselves run cool as resistance is very low.... Did you ever notice the connectors being hot under normal use?
We run the EC3's in Sixty size Hangar nine warbirds, and 600 size heli's all the time... no issue. I have seen a result similar to what you decribe once or twice... due to shallow/high resistance/incomplete poor soldering.

Have Fun,
David

rivas8409

My Feedback: (1)

I never noticed anything getting hot after a flight.Thingswould be a little warm, but not any more than would be expected after a 10-12 minute flight. I really like the EC3's, and I use them on all my planes. I guess after thinking about it a bit, my biggest concern is the size of the wire from the battery. The more I'm flying single 4S battery packs the more I'm finding that the wires are barely fitting the connector. HK, at least Turnigy, uses 10 guage wire onall their 4000+mAh packs thati'm shopping for.Have you run into thisissuesince you use EC3's onmodels bigger than mine?

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

The larger gauge wire shouldn't be a problem if you have adequate soldering equipment. May be old hat to you, but a 40 watt minimum solder pen and not a solder gun.
Good quality solder and flux. Making sure everything is clean before soldering. And tinning both parts first will get you a good solder every time.

In addition couple of items I do when dealing with the 10 gauge wires. I tin them last, right before making the solder connection as this way the wire is already good and hot, so it won't take as much heat on the connector to get transfer.

Also setting up before hand so that once the solder joint is made, nothing moves. If something moves as the solder hardens there is a really good chance you will have a cold solder joint.

And as mentioned before, a CLEAN large chisel tipped solder pen will heat up your connections a lot quicker/better then a needle point one will.

Lastly, what I've done in cases where the wire diameter was larger then the connector hole. I make a double cut on the wire, first cut removes a couple of strands of the wire(just enough so when it's tinned it will fit), then a second cut just behind that that only removes the insulation so that I have a step on the wire diameter. When it's installed and soldered the step edge bonds to the connector on it's edge giving me a nice looking connection.



Oh and just wait, I've got some HK packs that came with 8 gauge wires on em. [X(]

Dr_Chuckie

I have about 90 flights on a H9 Stick using a E-Flite 46, Turnigy 85 amp ESC and Turnigy 4S 5000mAh batteries. I use the EC3 connectors and have never had a issue.