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BCX2 Did they fix it?

Old 01-09-2007, 09:14 PM
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samtech
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Default BCX2 Did they fix it?

Hi Guys,
Ok, I have an old CX that I fly around the house and every now and then fly outside. My problem is not a new one.... happens to everyone that has a CX....Blade strikes. Throw it around too hard and it crashes into itself..... I know I can get hop up parts from bladeCXpro and fix it. Longer shafts, shorter flybar, etc.
My question for all of you is did E-flight fix it with the BCX2 and will the shafts, flybar and head fit the old CX? Or is it the same old story.... push it hard and watch it take itself apart.... ah, the cladder of death.
Old 01-09-2007, 09:59 PM
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Default RE: BCX2 Did they fix it?


ORIGINAL: samtech

Hi Guys,
Ok, I have an old CX that I fly around the house and every now and then fly outside. My problem is not a new one.... happens to everyone that has a CX....Blade strikes. Throw it around too hard and it crashes into itself..... I know I can get hop up parts from bladeCXpro and fix it. Longer shafts, shorter flybar, etc.
My question for all of you is did E-flight fix it with the BCX2 and will the shafts, flybar and head fit the old CX? Or is it the same old story.... push it hard and watch it take itself apart.... ah, the cladder of death.
I've read a bunch of posts with the same problem. First, I don't know if the problem still exists with the CX2. But I've posted this a couple of times and the guys who have tried this NEVER clack their blades. If you are interested, here ya go. The parts needed are two pair of locking collars from the hobby shop. I paid less that 2 bucks for a set of 4. Anyhow, I'll just paste my old information here and you can do with it what you want. But this is my setup and I can invert my heli. Of course it doesn't fly that way, but it is capable of getting pretty nuts.

First, you might slow down the stick action a little so you don't clack the blades. That seems to be the common term for the common occurrence you are seeing. There are several ways to make things better. Everyone has their favorite, so I'll throw my ideas out there and others can do the same.
To start with, mod the flybar weights. If you are able to get a good hover, you don't need that much flybar weight. Stick a tiny screw driver or wire down between the brass weight and the rubber boot in the flybar end weight. Pop the brass thing out. Don't loose it. Try to hover. If you're OK with it that way, you should see far less blade damage.

Then, if all goes well, get more serious. I believe the flybar weights from the factory are about 5.5 grams for the pair. I fly with 1.6 gram weights (again, for the pair).
With the weights out of the rubber things, slide the rubbers up onto the flybar and cut the flybar ends off. A dremmel works great for that. Slide the rubber things off the ends of the flybar rods.
Go to the local hobby shop and get a set of locking collars. They are about 3/16 in diameter, about a quarter inch long with a hole in the center for a 1/16 inch wire. And they have a set screw to lock them on.
I started with two weights on each end. That worked well so I went to one at the end and one in the middle of each flybar rod. When I got good enough to hover that way, I went to just one collar on each flybar rod, located at about 1 1/2 inch from the outboard end on each side. That's pretty light weight and it's a handfull, but it rocks.

Because my flybar is so light, I don't think that it can force the blades to clack. You will find that the hover is just a bit more work and the heli is a bit less stable with a very light flybar, but I'm OK with it and I'm not a very good pilot. If you go a step at a time, you'll find a place where you are comfortable. The lighter the flybar the less it fights the heli. That seems to be a good thing.

And here's another major tip. With the lightweight flybar, you may get more TBE. A large part of the TBE is caused by the balls on the upper blade where the linkage connects. From the factory there is often a ring of 'flash' plastic around the ball. When you snap the linkage onto the ball there is just a bit of resistance. GET RID OF THAT FLASH. Use a knife and scrape it or sand it or whatever, but ANY resistance in the flybar linkage will cause TBE. And the less the flybar weighs, the worse it is. With clean balls you get no Toilet Bowl Effect. Even with the light weight flybar.

With the light flybar you will also get faster vertical response and better directional stability because the upper rotor is so much lighter it accelerates faster and actually keeps up with the lower rotor.
Whew!
So for what it's worth, there ya go. Start now and you'll be done in 20 minutes or less.
Old 01-09-2007, 10:17 PM
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Default RE: BCX2 Did they fix it?

the CX2s only difference is the electronics and body
Old 01-09-2007, 10:32 PM
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samtech
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Default RE: BCX2 Did they fix it?

Soloboss,
Hey thanks man! I'll do that. Just need to hit the LHS for some more blades.... again. Pretty sure I can handle the loss of stability. Matter of fact that's one of the things I can't stand about the CX, it's too stable. My Trex is a little shaky but I've grow to enjoy it, now I find the CX a little boring and far too tame.
You can actuelly get yours to roll over? It seems that mine won't really roll at all or nose up/down. At full stick forward/roll it seems to have a limit, it gets there and thats it. As fast as it will go regardless of how long you hold it there.
I am so looking forward to applying this mod. Make it handle more like a helicopter and less like a cement truck.
I agree about slowing stick inputs... I know better.... But then again.... I knew better than to fly my trex in the house.... and I certainly knew better than to try and land it on the ceiling inverted too!
Old 01-10-2007, 06:41 PM
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Default RE: BCX2 Did they fix it?


ORIGINAL: samtech

Soloboss,
Hey thanks man! I'll do that. Just need to hit the LHS for some more blades.... again. Pretty sure I can handle the loss of stability. Matter of fact that's one of the things I can't stand about the CX, it's too stable. My Trex is a little shaky but I've grow to enjoy it, now I find the CX a little boring and far too tame.
You can actuelly get yours to roll over? It seems that mine won't really roll at all or nose up/down. At full stick forward/roll it seems to have a limit, it gets there and thats it. As fast as it will go regardless of how long you hold it there.
I am so looking forward to applying this mod. Make it handle more like a helicopter and less like a cement truck.
I agree about slowing stick inputs... I know better.... But then again.... I knew better than to fly my trex in the house.... and I certainly knew better than to try and land it on the ceiling inverted too!
Here's something to test your ability.
Outside, when you have a calm spell, try this. Hover the heli at a couple of feet off the ground with the nose pointed in the direction you want to go. Then shove the right stick and the throttle stick forward to the max and watch the little bird rip across the yard. When you have gone far enough, bring BOTH sticks back to center - gently. Your heli should have gained about 20 feet of altitude for every hundred feet it flew away. If all is well, land the heli and shut down the power and let it sit for a few seconds to catch its breath - honestly, the battery will see a significant improvement even if you don't disconnect the battery connector. Now repeat the flight described above, and when it's out about 70 feet and 20 feet up, steer into a LEFT turn with the left (rudder) stick and she'll make a wonderful long arc turn-around. Bring the left stick (rudder) back to straight - then reduce the forward and throttle to mid-range. It's pretty dramatic and will make you look like a pro. And I think that part of the trick is to turn left while accelerating. It's a gyroscopic thing. I don't know that I've ever tried the same thing while turning right. Somebody go try it and let me know.
NOTICE: If you get nervous as it takes off in fast forward, don't just cut the throttle back or it will stick its nose into the dirt. And if you maintain full throttle and cut the forward stick it will go nose straight up, then fall out of the sky. Once you figure out the balance, you can hold the right stick full forward and control the altitude and direction with the throttle stick.
REMEMBER - Left Stick =Throttle = Altitude (and direction the nose points); Right Stick =Pitch (direction the heli flies) & Ground Speed .

I've written a number of articles about my experiments and things that I believed at one time to be true. And sometimes I was wrong. The guys in this forum have always been enthusiastic about my discoveries and polite about my errors. And we all learn.

For the record, the heli that I am flying to do the moves described above is a stock battery, stock motor, stock body (with the rear little horizontal wing removed). I have cut the body and the 4 in 1 case for ventilation and I have the aluminum motor heat sink and aluminum flybar hub / center shaft. My flybar is about 3/8ths inch shorter than stock ON EACH END. My weights are simply 3/16 outside diameter collars from the hobby shop. I use 2 on each end of the flybar and tighten the setscrew in the collars securely. I've flown outside with only one collar on each end but I need more room to maneuver as the performance is increased but the stability is not as good. And I'm still not a very good pilot.
I've worked with this maneuver a bunch and the body on my poor heli shows it. More tape than plastic! Those heavy weights slow the response some, but she'll still surprise you. The secret is to add a bunch of throttle when you push that right stick. The gyroscopic effect seems to be nullified when you change the rpm of the flybar / upper rotor.

I'll gladly accept any input from anyone else on this subject. I know what works for me and I'm still working on the performance aspects of this little heli with only minor revisions to the original design. Yesterday I did what I described above and I went into a long left rudder turn, then added too much left aileron (right stick) and I actually inverted the heli. I have the scratches on the top cover of the aluminum flybar holder to prove it. No, it was not a good landing, but it hit the flybar hub so perfectly inverted that it knocked the outer shaft collar (below the swashplate) out of adjustment and didn't break any blades!
Old 01-10-2007, 08:27 PM
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Default RE: BCX2 Did they fix it?

I have been flying the CX2 for a few weeks pretty aggressivly and have not had one single blade strike like happens on the CX. The reason it does not happen on the CX2 is because of the mounting oposition of the servo push rods. I'm pretty sure they come from the factory on the CX in hole #, where the [email protected] has them mounted in hole #1. This makes every bit of difference in that respect. There are tons of people on here talking about this, and I have heard the common solution for the CX is to mount the push rods in hole #3.
Old 01-10-2007, 08:58 PM
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Default RE: BCX2 Did they fix it?

I've had one blade clash on my CX-2... very low, and not going fast... Smack, and it fell down!
Old 01-10-2007, 10:06 PM
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Default RE: BCX2 Did they fix it?

Soloboss,
Oh yeah, Works real good. I followed your instructions and it was good. However, I have a couple of old flybars laying around and some piano wire.... I ended up taking about 5/8" off either side of the flybar and am running only one collar per side. I also made a new inner shaft about 5/16" longer then the stock one and used another 2mm collar to space out the flybar head from the bearing. Major, major differance. flys like a helicopter. Zero TBE! One thing I noticed right off is that I had to re-trim my 4 in 1 yaw pot. There is so much less mass flying about that I had it full trim to the left on my Tx and it was still yawing out. Befor it was full right on the pot and full right on my Tx and it still pulled. Now.....blissfully balanced. Thank you so much for the good advise.
Old 01-11-2007, 05:39 PM
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Default RE: BCX2 Did they fix it?


ORIGINAL: samtech

Soloboss,
Oh yeah, Works real good. I followed your instructions and it was good. However, I have a couple of old flybars laying around and some piano wire.... I ended up taking about 5/8" off either side of the flybar and am running only one collar per side. I also made a new inner shaft about 5/16" longer then the stock one and used another 2mm collar to space out the flybar head from the bearing. Major, major differance. flys like a helicopter. Zero TBE! One thing I noticed right off is that I had to re-trim my 4 in 1 yaw pot. There is so much less mass flying about that I had it full trim to the left on my Tx and it was still yawing out. Befor it was full right on the pot and full right on my Tx and it still pulled. Now.....blissfully balanced. Thank you so much for the good advise.
When I read about these guys talking about being bored with the CX, it's sort of a shame. I certainly agree that there are areas that only a 'real' heli can explore, but for those days when you just want to goof around, these little CX's are just so cool. And they'll rock if you remove the anchor!
It made my day to hear that you had success with my changes.
So with just one collar on each end of the flybar, how's your hover?
That weight reduction is a HUGE change isn't it? The way these things accelerate is amazing. I've pushed the right stick fully forward as it sat on the ground, then slapped the throttle to the max. You better be ready 'cause these things rip. It's just like having a new heli and the cost is about $2. How cool is that
Thanks again for the reply.
Soloboss
Old 01-11-2007, 08:08 PM
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samtech
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Default RE: BCX2 Did they fix it?

Soloboss,
Hovers great! The only real difference in the hover is that I have to actuelly be awake Before it was just too stable.... Couldn't crash it if I tried. Crashed it's self plenty... all adding to the frustration.
Your absolutley right about a new heli for two bucks. I was really bored with mine..... Mahahaa IT'S ALIVE "evil laugh"
It's a fun little heli again! It's no Trex but then again.... I don't need white knuckle flying everyday.

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