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Which model would you consider the most stable outdoor E-flite chopper
#1
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From: Louisville,
KY
I bought the CP Pro2 without a thought about the heli's stablility and "nervousness". I'm starting to think I bought the most twitchy model as my intro to collective pitch. That has me thinking about what I'd get next. I'd like to spring for a 400, but I'm not a money tree and don't want to make another blind purchase. So I figured I'd ask you guys. What is the most stable out of the box heli they offer? How does it compare to other manufacturer's helis? Feel free to elaborate and branch off into topics relating to capability, tunability, abilalility, etc.
Plus, I needed to do a poll to satisfy my other voices in my head.....
Plus, I needed to do a poll to satisfy my other voices in my head.....
#2
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From: San Diego,
CA
SR is promoted as the "next step" intro to CP helis. But it sounds like it's basically just tuned down in the radio. The 400 will be more stable because it's larger and can be tamed in the radio and with flybar weights, the tail will be more solid because it's belt driven, not motorized, and it will give you more room to grow.
CP helis are more difficult to fly and you can learn on the Pro2. You can replace the TX with a DX6 or 7 and program the controls to your liking, that makes a big difference. Also, if you haven't already put flybar weights on all the way out, that will help stabilize it.
CP helis are more difficult to fly and you can learn on the Pro2. You can replace the TX with a DX6 or 7 and program the controls to your liking, that makes a big difference. Also, if you haven't already put flybar weights on all the way out, that will help stabilize it.
#3
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From: Gatineau,
QC, CANADA
I have tamed down my CP Pro 2 settings on my Spektrum DX7 (I can even hover in the livingroom). I can fly it much better outside now, and it is as stable as my 2 HK450.
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From: Gatineau,
QC, CANADA
Here are my settings for the Spektrum DX7 and the <font color="#000000">CP Pro</font> 2 (CPP2):
Swash Type : 3 servos / 120 degrees
Reversing SW : 1-N, 2-R, 3-N, 4-R, 5-N, 6-N, 7-N
Sub Trim : (adjust to your heli)
Travel Adjust : ELEV D-90% U-90%
Swash Mix : AILE +45%, ELEV -45%, PIT. -20%
Throttle Hold : -7% SW:RUDD D/R
Throttle Curve : NORM: 0%, 35%, 60.5%, 90%, 100% EXP:ON
Pitch Curve : NORM: 0%, 35%, 60.5%, 90%, 100% EXP:ON
Revo Mix : 0%...
Swash Type : 3 servos / 120 degrees
Reversing SW : 1-N, 2-R, 3-N, 4-R, 5-N, 6-N, 7-N
Sub Trim : (adjust to your heli)
Travel Adjust : ELEV D-90% U-90%
Swash Mix : AILE +45%, ELEV -45%, PIT. -20%
Throttle Hold : -7% SW:RUDD D/R
Throttle Curve : NORM: 0%, 35%, 60.5%, 90%, 100% EXP:ON
Pitch Curve : NORM: 0%, 35%, 60.5%, 90%, 100% EXP:ON
Revo Mix : 0%...
#6

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Hi there,
Going from a CPP2 to a 400, 500, or 600 class heli is really nite and day in terms of stability, maneuvering, handling, etc. Size does matter with heli's, and equally important is the quality of the electronics you put into them. The gyro, tail servo, motor, ESC, and cyclic servo's really do make up a good part of the heli. Skimping in these area's does create a handicap from the start, esp when you start crashing a heli b/c a particular cyclic servo goes bad in flight, or some other similar electrical failure.
Please don't get me wrong with this next statement but Eflight is great for the beginner heli pilot. They offer relatively ready to fly heli's for a catchy price. However, many of those components in the heli need upgrading before too long and so that low price does go up eventually. One idea is to move away from the ready to fly heli's and into the kit heli's. One way is to get a barebones frame kit clone (such as HK, EXI, or Tarot) and then add your own electronics to finish. This gives a heli that has the electronics you want, not what a particular manufacture decides on. It also gives the pilot the experience of building and setting up their own heli, from the ground up, so to speak.
Well, just wanted to add my 2 or 3 cents to the discussion.
Mark
Going from a CPP2 to a 400, 500, or 600 class heli is really nite and day in terms of stability, maneuvering, handling, etc. Size does matter with heli's, and equally important is the quality of the electronics you put into them. The gyro, tail servo, motor, ESC, and cyclic servo's really do make up a good part of the heli. Skimping in these area's does create a handicap from the start, esp when you start crashing a heli b/c a particular cyclic servo goes bad in flight, or some other similar electrical failure.
Please don't get me wrong with this next statement but Eflight is great for the beginner heli pilot. They offer relatively ready to fly heli's for a catchy price. However, many of those components in the heli need upgrading before too long and so that low price does go up eventually. One idea is to move away from the ready to fly heli's and into the kit heli's. One way is to get a barebones frame kit clone (such as HK, EXI, or Tarot) and then add your own electronics to finish. This gives a heli that has the electronics you want, not what a particular manufacture decides on. It also gives the pilot the experience of building and setting up their own heli, from the ground up, so to speak.
Well, just wanted to add my 2 or 3 cents to the discussion.

Mark
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From: Louisville,
KY
I need a few more cents.
Will my DX6i have enough channels for a larger heli or should I have bought a DX7?
Will my DX6i have enough channels for a larger heli or should I have bought a DX7?
#8
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From: Red Oak, TX
ORIGINAL: patryn
I need a few more cents.
Will my DX6i have enough channels for a larger heli or should I have bought a DX7?
I need a few more cents.
Will my DX6i have enough channels for a larger heli or should I have bought a DX7?
Ken
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#9
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From: Louisville,
KY
I'm thinking of building a 400 or 500 now and doing that. Speaking I've managed to send both the mSR and CPPro2 sailing at full uncontrolled throttle in my apt, I've found they aren't near dangerous enough. Hhahaha. Now I just need to decide on what and the budget associated. I definately want something stable and with an aluminum head. Now more plastic parts. Just easily broken cheap blades to save the head unit. I've learned I'd prefer to have the blades be the "fuse" rather than rebuild the head. Just stock up on blades and flybars.


















