papajeff

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PROJET RQ-11 Raven brushless RC UAV Drone ARF kit

Nitroplanes has recently introduced another unusual UAV model. PROJET, the maker
of the famous MQ-9 Reaper RC model, has just produced the RQ-11 Raven. This model
is composed of an extremely well-made composite fuselage which is easy to build and with
it's electric power, enjoyable to fly. The Raven will certainly draw a lot of attention at the
flying field.

In real life, the RQ-11 Raven is a small, hand-launched, remote-controlled, unmanned aerial
vehicle (or SUAV) developed for the U.S. military, but now adopted by the military forces of
many other countries. The RQ-11 Raven was originally introduced as the FQM-151 in 1999,
but in 2002 developed into it's current form. The craft is launched by hand and powered by
an electric motor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RQ-11_Ravenand
http://www.afsoc.af.mil/library/fact...et.asp?id=9112

papajeff

Specifications of the NitroplanesPROJET Raven:SALEPRICE - $89.95

[*]Wingspan: 1300mm(51")[*]Length: 1660mm (65")[*]Weight: 900~1000g (2.2 lbs.)[*]Wing Area: 30 dm^2[*]Wing Loading: 30~34g dm^2[*]Radio Control: 3 ch / 2 servoscontrol rudder & elevator[*]Motors: 2835~3035 brushless outrunner from 250w - 550w[*]ESC: 20 - 60A depending on motor size[/list]NOTE: Camera not included

papajeff

General Characteristics of the actual RAVEN:

Primary Function: Day/night reconnaissance and surveillance with low altitude operation
Contractor: Aerovironment
Power Plant: Electric Motor, rechargeable lithium ion batteries
Wingspan: 4.5 ft (1.37 meters)
Weight: 4.2 lbs (1.9 kilograms)
GCU weight: 17 lbs (7.7 kilograms)
Speed: 30-60 mph (26-52 knots)
Range: 8-12 km (4.9-7.45 miles)
Endurance: 60-90 minutes
Operating Altitude: Altitude: 12,500 ft Normal Ops: 100-500 ftAir Ground Level (AGL)
System Cost: $ ~173,000 (2004 dollars)
Payload: High resolution, day / night camera and thermal imager

Notice the system price of the real Raven? Yes, $173,000.00 in 2004, soooooo........let's see, with
inflation and our depressed economy........today the cost should be just about $250,000.00............
right? WOW, that sure makes Nitro's price of $89.95 a real good deal! LOL...LOL.......

papajeff

Nitro Tony has produced three videos which give an excellent overview of the PROJET Raven.
http://www.nitroplanes.com/projet-003-rq11.html

I will try to highlight the basic build steps as the kit is composed of just a few parts;
1. main fuselage - all composite
2. tail boom - CF
3. three part build up wing -right, left & middle section
4. elevator
5. rudder
6. hardware and small parts

The package arrived in a double carton box with no damage at all, as there were internal
cardboard separators and each piece was wrapped in foam sealed in it's own plastic bag.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Nice Jeff, can't wait to see the build.
Already have some questions and ideas for an inside mount camera system. Would clean up the look and be pretty trick.
Will wait till I hear about the inside of the fuse.

papajeff

Glacier,

Nice to hear from you and be sure to add any of your ideas for cameramounts as I think that this UAV
will be the perfectplatform for aerial photography. The manual is typical of the previous ProJet models
and is basically just photos of the recommended build steps.

papajeff

It seemed logical to start with the hinging of the rudder and elevator. The provided hinges were the normal
CA type, but they were a circle shapeand worked just fine. I used thin ZAP CAand the hinging was completed
with no issues.

The elevator and rudder are configured as a pull-pull system and thus there are two control horns on each
side of the moving surfaces (elevator & rudder). The manual suggested to cut off the top most hole of each
horn to give a greater deflection and I did so, as it seemed to make sense to me.

papajeff

Next, I epoxyed the rudder and the elevator to the tail boom which already had the slots
pre-cut.I used 30 minuteZ-poxy mixed with micro balloons to make the epoxy a little thicker.
The 30 minute cure time gave me theopportunity to make sure that the rudder was exactly
90 degrees to the elevator and then taped the correctposition till the epoxy cured.

I made just one little mod to the CF tail boom which was to epoxy two short lengths (@1")
of nylon pull-pull cable housing into the pre-cut slots in the tail boom. This was done as the
slots were rough cut and I did not want to take the chance that the cable wire could be
frayed from constant use.

NOTE: Yes, I did paint the CF tail boom light grayto match the fuselage.

papajeff

NextI decided toinstall the servos, one for the rudder and one for the elevator. I used two 16g
MG digital servos from Nitroplanes as I felt the need for a stronger than 9g servo with the pull-pull
system. I always like to center the servos before installing them in the servo trays because
it is much easier. I use the MPI Servo Driver Pro as it is simple and effective.

papajeff

Now, setting up the pull-pull system wires wasnext and I decided not to use the wire that was
included (blue wire on top in first photo) because it was not as flexable as I like. I found a very
strong, plastic coated, strandedwire at a craft store (Michaels, Joann's, AC Moore) which is
used for beading bracelets and necklaces. Idid use the clevis's and rigging couplers that
wereincluded and they worked out well.

TexasWillis

i have been following your forum for the RQ-1 Predator 63" for a couple of years. I have to say you come up with some really good mods. What exactly did you use for the tubing for the cable guides? I'm more interested in the details on the tubes diameter, wall thickness, and possibly where you bought it?

papajeff

Texas Willis,

Thank you for your comment. That Predator thread has really surprised me and it seems to have
taken on a life of it's own. In the past few years within the RC Hobby, a sort of sub-culture has
developed with a focus on UAV, SRPA, UAS, and any other type of Drone aircraft.

With respect to your question, you can find the control rod nylon cable housing at any local hobby
shop in your area. Sullivan Products is one of many brands that makes various sizes and lengths.
Also, you can use any of those little plastic coffee stirrers that are actually a straw. I used some
of these straws to hold down the antenna of the Spektrum receiver in this build. The nylon tube
that I used for the Raven was about 1.35mm in diametercut to about 1" and the nylon coated
stainless stringing wire, with a diameter of .61, was a perfect fit. I hope that this helps.

papajeff

The four cables were cut to 750mm in length and I attached the included rigging couplers and clevis's to
only one end, which was then connected to the control horns of the rudder and elevator. Then I threaded
the loose ends thru the CF tube.Now,the tail boom tubeis epoxyed into the fuselage leaving 440mm
exposed as shown in the manual.

papajeff

Now, with the loose cable ends in position within the servo tray compartment, I thought it would give more
room to work for attaching the rigging couplers and clevis's to thepull-pull wires. Well, I was almost right!
With my meaty hands and a touch of arthritis.........I found that I had to remove the servo control horn first,
attach the clevis to eachend, and thenre-attach the horn to the servo.

IMPORTANTNOTE: Here is the correct order to do this properly with less grief!!!
1. screw clevis half way on the rigging coupler threads.
2. start with rudder, as it will have shorter length wires, and measure both wires to theoutermost
hole in the horn and mark the wirewith a magic marker.
3. now, compensate for the length of the "rigged" coupler and the loop necessary for the crimp.
4. loop wire thru coupler and crimp as shown in manual.
5.remove the servo horn, attach the clevis's, re-attach the horn to the servo.
6. do the same procedure for the elevator.
7. if any of the wires are too loose, just remove that clevis and adjust it on the coupler threads.
8. when completed, both moving surfaces of the rudder and elevator should be at center/neutral.

Yeah, this is the pain of pull-pull setups, but just go slow and it will be worth it!!!!!

papajeff

On to the motor setup. I decided to use the Nitroplanes Monster Power 25 outrunner with specs of;
- 870Kv
- 550W @ max 45A
- 3S to 4S Li-Po
In addition, it was the perfect size (48mm X 35mm) to fit in the cowl.

The 53mm provided plywood mount was drilled with four pilot holes that matched the pattern of the
motor's mounting holes. I placed a drop of Pacer Z-42 thread locker on each mounting bolt before
tightening.

papajeff

I always like a little wiggle room with mating a motor with an ESC. So, with a burst current of 45A,
I choose a Castle Phoenix 60A ESC with it's internal 3A BEC as there were only two servos.

Hesco Racing

On mounting the motor to the plate you used countersunk screw, would a pan head screw not have been better. Would the countersunk not tend to want to split the wood after a while due to how it grips?
Looking neat as usual


Cobus

TexasWillis

Papajeff,

I have been rubbing my hands together patiently waiting to hear what you suggest. I ordered and I'm waiting on a Hacker A30-12L V2 Brushless Outrunner RC Motor, 143g, 500W, 1000 RPM/Volt with the Hacker X-40 SB Pro Brushless Motor Speed Controller ESC 40A to power my Raven. I tried to figure out what I needed to get this baby off the ground. What size propeller are you using? I have tried to crunch the numbers and I believe a 9x6 prop pitchspeed is 27 MPH and would run for around 30 minutes. A 9x7.5 prop pitchspeed would be around 33mph and run for a few minutes less. Are these the best props to use or can I bump it up to a 10x? proppeller? I know we are limited on propeller size due to the black tail boom.

papajeff

With the mounting bolts, I used the ones that came with the motor because they are mated by the manufacturer
to the internal threadson the motor. Since the 53mm diameter,plywood circle mount seemed to be aircraft
quality and very sturdy, I did not mind that the phillips headbolt had a tapered shoulder. Also, I used the supplied
screws to mount the plate, with motor attached, to the"cowl" which was reinforced with two layers of plywood
behind the fiberglass exterior opening.

I always drill pilot holes first and then screw in the bolt or screw. Then I remove the bolt or screw and apply a drop
of thin CA into each hole and when it dries, your threaded hole had been strengthened substantially. Give it a try.

papajeff

Texas,

Your power combo sounds real good to me! With respect to prop size, I think that you are correct
with your thought of a 9X6 or 9X7.5. I plan to test both props with my watt meterto see what the
results will be. I don't think that a 10" prop could avoid hitting the tail boom.

Again, watts per pound will be the important number and I believe that my Raven should have a
flying weight of around 3 to 3 1/2 pounds with camera's, so if I get 550watts that puts me over
150w/lb. and that should fly the Raven just fine with power to spare.

erec11

Hello to all of you, i have been searching this and other forum to see if i have anny idea on how to put ailerons on this bird, so if anny of you have some please tell us! I just received mine and i´m gonna build it to fly with an auto-pilot, camera, video tx etc, so ailerons are REALLY needed!

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Fairly simple to add ailerons if you have any building experience.
Cut off the section to be the location for the ailerons. Box in the wing ribs and new ailerons. Hinge the two back together, repair covering. Add control horns, make up servo pockets and hatches in the wings.

You can also use solid aileron blanks in place of the section you cut off.

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

Jeff how bout something like this for an "eye in the sky" set up.

papajeff

ILIKEIT!!!!!!!!!! I was thinking about cutting an opening on the flat of the belly, just behind the
curveof the nose, infront of the mains, but I like your idea better. Hey, how's the weather down
in Lakeland? We are freezing our cookies off up here NY. Take a lookatthis monster outrunner
test that we did a few days ago. Turnigy Motor Test 2 (16meg)

Glacier Girl

My Feedback: (4)

DAAAAAAAAAAAAG!!!!!!!!!! Now that's a motor. Now you gotta find a bird to fit it. Make a heck of a Slow Stick set up.[X(]


Weather has been brutal down here too. Today was 70 and 2-4 winds. Brutal as in finding time to fly.