Nitro Planes CMP P28 Piper Arrow ARF
#27

You don't need it to be super thick.
Something like this will do fine and you may be able to get away with something smaller.
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJDP7&P=ML]Click me![/link]
Something like this will do fine and you may be able to get away with something smaller.
[link=http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJDP7&P=ML]Click me![/link]
#28

BTW: another thing I would recommend doing....
The cowl is pretty thin IMHO...
I used some light fiberglass cloth to re-inforce it.
I cut the cloth into 1-2" strips.
I prepared the work area by putting down wax paper ( epoxy doesn't stick to wax paper when it dries! ).
I mixed up 30 minute epoxy and added and mixed in an addition 40% by volume isoprophyl alcohol to thin it out.
I lightly coated the inside of the cowl with the mixture and laid the strips on the inside.
I then again applied the thin mix until the strips seemed to disappear on the cowl. It is OK if the strips cover the openings... you'll remove the excess later. The strips should also extend up to or very slightly beyond the edges of the cowl.
I carefully removed any excess epoxy with pure alcohol and a clean towel.
I let this dry overnight.
Once it was hard and dry I used a small Dremel sanding drum to remove any excess fiberglass from the edges and openings.
The cowl becomes much harder this way and far less prone to cracking during a mishap.
BTW: I did the same thing for the floor of the canopy area, but in retrospect you don't really need it there and it can interfer with the removal of the canopy to get at the batteries.
The cowl is pretty thin IMHO...
I used some light fiberglass cloth to re-inforce it.
I cut the cloth into 1-2" strips.
I prepared the work area by putting down wax paper ( epoxy doesn't stick to wax paper when it dries! ).
I mixed up 30 minute epoxy and added and mixed in an addition 40% by volume isoprophyl alcohol to thin it out.
I lightly coated the inside of the cowl with the mixture and laid the strips on the inside.
I then again applied the thin mix until the strips seemed to disappear on the cowl. It is OK if the strips cover the openings... you'll remove the excess later. The strips should also extend up to or very slightly beyond the edges of the cowl.
I carefully removed any excess epoxy with pure alcohol and a clean towel.
I let this dry overnight.
Once it was hard and dry I used a small Dremel sanding drum to remove any excess fiberglass from the edges and openings.
The cowl becomes much harder this way and far less prone to cracking during a mishap.
BTW: I did the same thing for the floor of the canopy area, but in retrospect you don't really need it there and it can interfer with the removal of the canopy to get at the batteries.
#29
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I did notice how thin the cowl is, I've used that method to repair cowls after a crash and I've read about builders breaking it during the build so I will definitely be doing that. I hope you're available when I actually start to build, (it'll be a fun winter project)
New question: How many servo extentions will I need and at what legnths?
Thanks for the CF link.
New question: How many servo extentions will I need and at what legnths?
Thanks for the CF link.
#30

Let's see...
You'll need two longer extensions for the tail servos... I think I used 14 or 16" ones for that.
You'll need short 8-10" extensions for the aileron servos.
A 10" extension for the ESC ( mounted in the nose ).
I did not use extensions for the flaps, nor for the retracts... however to make it easy to remove and re-install the wing, I used short 2" extensions so that I could keep the 2" extension plugged into the receiver and merely disconnect the aileron, center retract and flaps at the extension plug.
I was considering grouping all of the wires with sticky tape between the plugs so that I could remove and insert them all at once.... but I never got around to it, since I end up only removing the wing when I am servicing the plane. I take it out to the field intact.
You'll need two longer extensions for the tail servos... I think I used 14 or 16" ones for that.
You'll need short 8-10" extensions for the aileron servos.
A 10" extension for the ESC ( mounted in the nose ).
I did not use extensions for the flaps, nor for the retracts... however to make it easy to remove and re-install the wing, I used short 2" extensions so that I could keep the 2" extension plugged into the receiver and merely disconnect the aileron, center retract and flaps at the extension plug.
I was considering grouping all of the wires with sticky tape between the plugs so that I could remove and insert them all at once.... but I never got around to it, since I end up only removing the wing when I am servicing the plane. I take it out to the field intact.
#31
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I have a question on the area where the servos for the Flaps go. I'm using a HS-645MG Standard Servo but I notice that it sits a bit to high and because of this I can't use the 2 mm plywood that goes over the top of the servo (it doesn't sit flush with the servo). I wanted to use the "single arm" on the servo but again it sits to high. Also the two pieces of plywood are really flimsy and might need to be changed. What mods. need to be done especially in the area of the flaps? Photos of this area would help. Thanks.
#32
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I haven't started building mine yet but I did see many posts recommending you coat the the flimsy servo trays with CE to add strength. Opjose has a lot of great advice that will be my alternate building plans. Good luck with your build.
#33
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Hi Opjose, remember me? I've started building my Piper Arrow and you've given me so much valuable information, (which I really appreciate) and I'm hoping you can help me some more. I'm stuck already with the flaps servo set up. I will reply to you on the forum so other new builders can benifit from your wisdom. I hope you are willing to help me with your expert knowledge on this particular plane.
Question: I'm setting up the flap servos and when I activate the flaps the servos move in the same direction but since they are faceing eachother they move in oppoisit directions.Do I need to somehowreverse one of them? Thanks in advance for your time.
Thanks,
~bobby
[email protected]
Question: I'm setting up the flap servos and when I activate the flaps the servos move in the same direction but since they are faceing eachother they move in oppoisit directions.Do I need to somehowreverse one of them? Thanks in advance for your time.
Thanks,
~bobby
[email protected]
#34

If I recall correctly to avoid having to use a servo reverser or a TX mix, I made both servos face the same direction.
That means I had to slightly offset one servo a bit when I installed it in the wing, so as to better center the pushrods.
That means I had to slightly offset one servo a bit when I installed it in the wing, so as to better center the pushrods.
#35
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Thanks so much for your help! I tried turning the servo but there's a rib in the way and theconnecting rod didn't line upbut after reading your response I took another look and realized that if I put the linkage stopper (as they call it) on the other side of the servo horn, I can make it work. You rock! I'm so glad to know you are still there! Thanks again!
Cheers,
~bobby
Cheers,
~bobby
#36

Yeah I did something like that.
You just have to get the end point set up before you put the servo in place, since you cannot let the control horn move beyond a given point, because of the stopper.
You just have to get the end point set up before you put the servo in place, since you cannot let the control horn move beyond a given point, because of the stopper.
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OK thanks, so glad I decided to test the flaps before starting to mount them, super glad to have your feedback...
#38
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I was wondering how to avoid accidentally hitting the Flap switch in the wrong direction which would definitely do damage. Any ideas? Maybe I should get retract servos?
New Question: did you change the connecting rods that go to the retracts? I've read that people felt they're too flimsey so they put heaveyer wire, also if and when the wings are glued together can you ever get back into the wing to replace a servo?
Question #2, I'm not even close to mounting the motor but on my other planes I've noticedthe motor is tipped down, should I be doing that with this mount also, regardingthe stand offs you added to the mount, is that just to give clearence for the wires?
Thanks again for helping me build this puppy.
~bobby
.
New Question: did you change the connecting rods that go to the retracts? I've read that people felt they're too flimsey so they put heaveyer wire, also if and when the wings are glued together can you ever get back into the wing to replace a servo?
Question #2, I'm not even close to mounting the motor but on my other planes I've noticedthe motor is tipped down, should I be doing that with this mount also, regardingthe stand offs you added to the mount, is that just to give clearence for the wires?
Thanks again for helping me build this puppy.
~bobby
.
ORIGINAL: opjose
Yeah I did something like that.
You just have to get the end point set up before you put the servo in place, since you cannot let the control horn move beyond a given point, because of the stopper.
Yeah I did something like that.
You just have to get the end point set up before you put the servo in place, since you cannot let the control horn move beyond a given point, because of the stopper.
#39

Hey. This thread is long dead, but I was just sold one of these NIB but unfortunately the cowl was unknowingly missing.
Anyone have a spare? Or are willing to sell theirs off their plane? Willing to pay a significant fee.
Anyone have a spare? Or are willing to sell theirs off their plane? Willing to pay a significant fee.
#40
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I have one..maybe two.. Offer me something plus shipping and it's yours.
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~b
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