guapoman2000

Okay good people,

Besides Rocketsled666 who I know is going to say NOT to install any more additional items to make the Retracts work better because one is adding more stuff to fail (failure points), I am wondering what the REST of you OUT there have experienced with these Electric Retracts by E-Flite?

WHY?

Because at the start of initial activation of my Model the Main Retracts will NOT come DOWN so, I can taxi this large & heavy model. Yes, I store this model with GEAR-UP. I would have to disconnect the NOSE Wheel Retract in order to get the MAINS DOWN and then, Disconnect the MAINS and reconnect the NOSE retract so, ALL gears would be in the GEAR-DOWN position.

Not only is this a Hassle but, unnerving from a stand point of flying this model and placing the Retracts in GEAR-UP position as I am NOT certain if they will come back down????:censored:

I have the NOSE Retract and the Mains in a Y-Connector and the Output plug towards the Receiver so, NO separate Battery configuration as of yet.

My QUESTION "IS" does anyone have experienced this issue and if so, how did you solve it?

A Video that I recorded today but, as you can see ALL Operated like it should!

TIA!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHhC...ature=youtu.be

Harvey Mushman

My Feedback: (10)

Cutting the red BEC wire and using a separate 4S 4.8V NiMH for receiver and retracts extended the life of the retracts, but only by a few flights. The retracts don't burn out after doing that, but they stop working after a while. My T-28 has had soft smooth landings every time, never a hard landing. Not so much my flying skill, but mostly due to the plane being very easy to fly. I was getting tired of replacing at least one retract after every 2 or 3 flights. I contacted Horizon again and they would no longer send me replacement retracts. They said the retracts had been improved so I ordered and paid for a complete replacement set. On 4.8V one was dead right out of the bag and one stopped working the very first day I flew. I have been through 7 replacement retracts including the 3 new versions, which look identical to the originals. I gave up after that and ordered a set of Electron ER-30 retracts. Minor mods to get them to fit, but well worth it. Yes, they are expensive, but I was fed up and now I have dozens of flights on my T-28 with no problems at all. Just smooth fast retraction and extension every time. Some people have had better luck than I with their stock T-28 retracts. For others with similar retract issues like I have had I hear the E-Flite retracts work better than the stock retracts and cost less than Electrons. I'm just sharing my experience and wish all the best for Carbon Z T-28 owners as it really is a great flying airplane.

paladin

My Feedback: (9)

TIA, I think we've talked at the other place. if I remember correctly you are using the switching that comes with the retract. that has a idiosyncrasy in that if the gear does not trip the switch on the other side of the motion it still is looking to go that way. so if the nose gear is bent enough the wheel hits the top of the wheel well and it shuts down without tripping the switch. my test for this is to pop the gear out if one does not come out I push the wheel into the well from the strut as close to the wheel as I can get a finger. if this is the problem the push will trip the switch and the gear will start to come out under its own power.

at my field we are almost always cross wind, and always from the same direction. so I always have a little side movement when I touch down which eventually bends the mains so the plane is leaning to one side. while my t-28 is not showing any of this yet when it does I will bend them back or the strut that gets bent in will go up and not come down, then when I push on it will come right out.

hope this helps

Joe

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Pretty excited, mine will be here tomorrow, Im late to the party, been wanting one for a long time.

guapoman2000

John,

I am excited for you and hope you don't have any issues with those factory supplied retracts.

Enjoy!

JohnVH

My Feedback: (38)

Same here

dweb4

My Feedback: (1)

I purchased one of the first round of big T-28's and had issues right out of the box with the stock retracts. All three had issues with the limiting switches, either not going fully up or down. Or one of them continuingly running the motor after the retract was up or down. I burnt up two motors on them. I did a few times get free replacements from Horizon, but they all ended doing the same thing again. The answer to fix the problem was cutting out the signal wire to the switch and adding a JP Retract Controller. There is a thread a guy posted on how to make the modifications. It's easy and I got the retract controller from eBay for about $25. After the modification, no more retract problems, been running this setup for about 2 years now.

dweb4

My Feedback: (1)

Here is the page link for the thread that has the retract modification. It's about half-way down.

FMS 1700mm retract mod (stock and all metal upgrade) - RC Groups

rossmick

Thanks for the information. I have a new batch of the gear for my T-28 purchased just in case, but I really don't trust them. I have ordered several of the 120 controllers and will play around with them once they show up. I have had other over current controllers for other electric gear, and I can't say they were all that reliable either. Seems the slightest drag would cause an over current and the gear would just hang up. Hopefully, this controller has a higher threshold for the cut off. For $50 it's worth it to give it a try. I wish it had more specks, but time testing will tell the story. I found on the other controllers if you cycled the gear too rapidly you would overheat the circuit and the gear would just not work at all. You stated you have used the 120 for several years and that gives me some confidence that this will fix the problem.

rossmick

Being that I am a 30-year Air Force fighter pilot I couldn't let the T-28 continue as a Navy plane. I checked, and sure enough the Air Force did use the T-28 in a fighter squadron. After filling all the dings and creases in the foam, there were way more than what you would have thought, I glassed the foam with 1/2 oz glass (too light, should have used 3/4 oz). Then I used Flite Metal applying it per a scale drawing. Then the hours long process of doing all the rivets poked in to the Flite Metal. Got graphics from Callie for the Air Force squadron colors. I also upgraded the motor to an E-flite 110, upped the esc to a Castle 100 to drive it powered by 2 8S 5500 LIPO batteries wired in series. Next, I added the Mr. RC Sound system to give it some actual noise. By the way, the other flyers hate it when I turn it on, but it sounds great on start and in the air. Here are some photos, and I should say that the plane flies great, but it is definitely heavier and needs power on landing.


Air Force version of T-28

Upgraded to an E-Flite 110 motor

Callie graphics

Castle 100 esc

Receiver is a JR RG831B with Smart Fly Power expander Sport to isolate the servos from the receiver and keep it at a constant 5.0 volts. Isolation is Important here with the somewhat flaky electric gear. If one gear should short, it is dropped from the system and the receiver is unaffected.

Better shot of receiver setup. I use a JR 28X radio, so I have lots of options and a very solid system.

Mr. RC sound system

One of the two speakers used for the sound. They are actually transducers and work very well.

Tay3

Very nice!

I like!