Timmahh

anyone have this kit? how is its quality... i just picked one up off of ebay for a decent price complete with engine i just need to build/put in servos/rec/batts and fly, i got this to play with a corsair while i build a TF .60 Corsair. gimme something to inspire my build..
any comments thoughts mods upgrades are appreciated.
thanx
Tim

Matt Kirsch

My Feedback: (21)

Typical GWS, which means not perfect, but acceptable for what they cost. Remember that it's coffee-cup foam, so it's not inedestructable. The aileron linkages are a little wonky if you choose to use a single aileron servo, due to the bends made to follow the gull-wing.

Check the parkflyers forum for more info.

L0stS0ul

There is a lot to read:

Part 1:
[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=344133]GWS Corsair build. Any tricks I should know? [/link]
Part 2:
[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=449966]Mini-Review - GWS corsair build take 2:[/link]

It's a wonderful plane. Flies very well on the Balsa Products BP-12 or BP-21 and a 3 cell lipo. Flies ok on the stock 400 setup with a 3 cell lipo. I've not flown the other versions.

I'm currently running the [link=http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V814870&pid=U422859]BP-21[/link] brushless outrunner on a GWS 8040 HD Prop. I use thunderpower 1320mAh 11.1v prolite lipos. Performance is very good.

I used to run the [link=http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V814870&pid=U635171]BP-12[/link] brushless outrunner on a GWS 9050 HD Prop and I loved that setup as well. A little slower than my current setup but about 5 ounces more of thrust.

[link=http://www.rcgroups.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=24751&sort=1&cat=500&page=1]Heres a video of mine on the BP-12[/link]

Basic tips:
1. Make sure you make room for the battery you are going to use BEFORE you put the 2 halves together.
2. The single servo aileron setup is a pain. Read up on it before you attempt to do it. I gave up on it and put 2 servos in the wing for ailerons.
3. Keep the elevator throws at the minimum recommended in the manual. This plane is very pitch sensitive
4. The CG is good around 53-54mm from the leading edge of the wing.
5. If you are building the brushed version KEEP IT LIGHT. The brushed version does not like weight at all. You definitally want to try to keep it at 15 ounces or lighter.
6. Both brushless setups I posted above can handle a 20 ounce plane no problem. Mine now comes in around 19 ounces after crash repairs.

A lot more tips in the 2 threads I posted above.

Enjoy. it's a great plane.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I have the stock 370 version and have been flying it for almost 3yrs. Everything LS said is good advice[sm=thumbup.gif].

Timmahh

k got the plane in. seems pretty simple, came with the 400 motor assembly, whats a good upgraded motor for this plane? also have any of you tried to apply balsa sheeting to the foam for a better finish when done? what do you use to glue the balso to the styro?
thanx
Tim

Flypaper 2

I wouldn't cover it with balsa as it flies well as it is. The extra weight will drop the performance drastically. The motors mentioned above work very well. Have fun.

L0stS0ul

As I wrote in my original post. The BP motors are great motors for GWS planes and they are only $20 to boot.

If your going to do anything at all to strengthen the foam you do what's called glassing. Tons of posts on how to do that. Read those two threads I posted earlier. Tell you everything you want to know.

Timmahh

ok great. i thought about glass but i dont want to put that much work into an electric flier. i might do glass on the 60size TF F4U red box i m starting sometime this yr. thanx much, i lll look for the motor. anything else i need with the motor to make it work? can any of you suggest a decent esc and servos to use.
Tim

L0stS0ul

I've been running these 2 setups on my corsair and both are great:

BP-12 Brushless outrunner - http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V814870&pid=U635171
CC ThunderBird 18 Speed Controller - http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=A0780192&pid=V063046
GWS 9050 HD Prop - http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V...id=EP9050Black
GWS Naro Servos - http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=A0780194&pid=T071943
Hitec Receiver - http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V533839&pid=U815461
ThunderPower 1320mAh 11.1v Prolite lipo - http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ID=THP13203SPL

I've also been very happy with the BP-21 on the corsair:

BP-21 Brushless Outrunner - http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V450327&pid=U422859
CC ThunderBird 18 Speed Controller - http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=A0780192&pid=V063046
GWS 8040 HD Prop - http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V...id=EP8040Black

(servos and receiver the same. I've also used the BMS-371 Micro Servos and find them very nice as well: http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V443293&pid=T557857

Balsa Products also sells the BP motors with the Thunderbird speed controllers in a discounted combo so you can get them for under $50:
http://www.balsapr.com/view.asp?id=V672768

I've been very happy with balsa products and order from the regularly. Great company.

The motor comes with everything you need to mount it and also mount the prop. You will need to buy bullet connectors but that's about it.

Timmahh

THANX much LS, your replys have been VERY informitive. i m new to the electrics so i need all the shoves in the right direction one can take..heh.
thanx again.
will post progress. going to start tomorrow, not sure about glassing it though. maybe. i ve folled some of the mods in the links you posted, i like the carbon tube to strenthen the fuse... good idea. will be re reading the thread as i start the build.
Tim

RickAvery

Timmahh,
Another power system which works well with the GWS warbirds is the HiMaxx outrunners. i.e. 2812-1080 They are a bit more pricey than the BP motors already mentioned. BUT, They have one really good attribute. A 4mm hardened output shaft. The BP motors come with I believe a 2mm non hardened shaft. I'm not bagging on BP motors, as I have two and they are plenty powerful and a great value for the price. I only mention this because if you drop the plane on its front end from anything higher than 18", you will bend the BP output shaft. Replacements are readily avaliable, cheap & not to difficult to change out. Just something to think about. Also as already mentioned, choose your battery and trim out the battery bay before you put the fuse together. What I did with my GWS war birds is to assemble the major components i.e. wings & ailerons, servos, horiz stab, pushrods ect... before mating the fuse halves, and basiclly tape the rest of the plane together i.e. ESC, Rx, motor, all the wireing & all of the other pieces and check the CoG. You can then see where you need to put the battery in order to get the right balance without having to add ballast. (Or having to add the least amount). If need be, you can also move the electronics around to aid in balancing. The corsair needs the battery to be pushed forward. Good luck. The corsair is a great flyer especially with a brushless, 3cell LiPo power system.
Rick

Timmahh

great, thanx for the options Rick, i knew there were other options..... i started the plane the other night and followed the directions, right up to and past the point of joining the fuse together, no matter im a wiz with a dremel and sandpaper, i can get a battery pack in where it needs to be for balance... im not going to paint the plane until i have it ready to fly. without the canopy of course.... i have a fair amount done, but i m hung up in one part... the directions shows 3 hinges for eacj wing flaps, 2 for each tail flap and 2 for the rudder... in the platic pieces provided, i see zero flaps let alone 10 of them... i have nothing that appears to be hinges, with the exception of 4 1/2 x 1/2 pieces of cardboard...... can someone guide me thru this hurdle,, i thing GWS did a HORRIBLE job lableing the plastic pieces and Proper identificaion. i literally see NOTHING that appears to be a hinge as shown in the 3/4 x 3/4 300 yard away picture in the manual, and certainly dont see 10 apparent hinges, maybe they are the new invisable hinges from hasbro... i hear they really hard to find.....maybe i dropped them on the carpet, oh great I dropped invisable hinges on the carpet. no one vaccuum....lol

thanx for the help and input, so far, im pleased with the progress, except to no hinges.... your advise and help are appreciated.
Tim

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Tim,
The hinges are the little white paper looking things. I just use dubro hinges anymore. Also save the time and weight if you go brushless leave the rudder off. Since I am using the original 370 can motor I am limited to how much steam I can lose in turns so having the rudder for co-ordinated turns is handy but if you usually fly with the bank and yank method save a servo.

Timmahh

oh is THAT what those are!!! lmao.. i would of NEVER guessed those were hinges.. lol i ll use an oleo dish and cut up the lids into stronger hinges than that paper crap..lol
Thanx for the input, i NEVER thought about them as hinges, i figured the were patches you glued on to cover overs opps'.
Tim

L0stS0ul

Actually that paper crap works quite well

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

They do work fine, I had them in my P-51. I just like having real hinges I don't use ca hinges on balsa either.

Timmahh

i grabbed on expecting it to tear in half fairly easily... but it didnt only stretched a bit. im impresses with how strong they actually are.... i thought it was just a laminated piece of paper, but after closer inspection i see its actaully a high strength light mill platic. hmm, whod a thunk it... lol i ll go ahead and use the "lil pieces of crap" afterall..lol
No if i can only get my mouth wide enough to get the heel of my foot past the roof of my mouth all will be dandy..lmao

Timmahh

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Don't worry about it man. Just have fun[8D]

RickAvery

I did exactly the same thing only i didn't try to tear one until I had already hinged it with a different method. I now I use them and they do work great. HAve fun.
Rick

midvaguy9

I've got the corsair and the 350 c stock system using nimh for power. The lil plane flies on rails and does any of the manuvers that the full size can do and sum that the full size cant. I picked up a brushless system from rchotdeals.com and plan to upgrade once i get bored with the corsair's stock power system. The bm-2409-18 brushless motor should make this lil plane a reno racer, I may have to change the color scheme..lol.You can get the same brushless system with esc for about 39.00. Good luck with your corsair, and happy landings.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Lotsa Racing schemes to pick from. Go to Wally World and get water based acrylic paint for a buck a color. Airbrush away. It even goes thru the goofy Testors arisol sprayer ok.[sm=thumbup.gif][sm=wink_smile.gif]

pd1

Vicman, I like the racing paint job on your Corsair. A more personal touch.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

Thanks. I get tired of all military birds. Many of them were raced after the war, and its nice for a diversion.

[8D]

pd1

Vicman, Here's another racing scheme.

Spitfiremk1x

pd1, I like your paint job, is it your design? I am really interested in your landing gears. Am planning on ordering me a F4U asap and prefer to equip mine with the same type. The GWS version doesn't look like they would hold up as well. The modification should keep me occupied during the cold spell after Christmas. Keep up the good work! John