Greg Covey

I let the actuator assembly dry for an hour and then cut the carbon rod to length. Since I knew where the carbon rod was positioned over the elevator, it was easy to mount my thin plastic control horn and make a metal clevis from the supplied solid wire. The metal wire was attached to the carbon rod with a selected piece of insulation from my wire pile. The snug fit allowed me to fine tune the elevator alignment and I didn't need to get a heat shrink gun near my delicate foam fuselage.

The resultant linkage is very light and very invisible to the eye since it runs under the plane and inside the fuselage.

Hotshot87

Which servo inserts where you refering to in this statment? "The servo inserts, in my feeling, really make those nasty magnetic actuators workable."

The GH Servo System for Push-rod mounting or BS Servo Inserts for Push-rod Mounting ?

Charlie2

Greg,
Can I use the Cirrus micro-joule system with this plane?

Charlie

Greg Covey

While either servo insert will work fine, I'm using the [link=http://www.slowfly.com/cgi-bin/shop.cgi?store=%2312192&view=%238658]GH Servo System for Push-rod mounting[/link].

I think that the single cell Cirrus MJ system would work on the P-38. The 2-cell version works great in my 3oz Hobbico Classic Bipe.

Greg Covey

I mounted both rudders using the same technique as the elevator. I am undecided about whether or not to use both rudders by connecting them together with a thin carbon linkage. I may initially try using just the right rudder to eliminate the complexity and weight of connecting both rudders.

My experience has been that the rudder on these little planes usually is very effective so just using the right rudder may work fine. Let's hear what Dan Hurd and others have to say about this issue.

dhurd

Greg,
Although I have never tried it with only one rudder you can try it and if one rudder is not enough you can easily add linkage to utilize both rudders. One method I have used to link both rudders is to us a two piece linkage with heat shrink in the middle to allow for adjustments. Then attach the CF Rod to the rudders by using a small piece of rubber. The rubber allows the link between the rod and rudder to flex. Don't make the peice of rubber too long though or it becomes too flexible.

WarpdSpazm

Dan,

I'm trying to follow your description for the rudder link. Do you think when you get a chance, you might be able to drop a photo on here of it? I'm not sure how your making the CF rod/rubber/rudder connection. Thanks.

Greg Covey

My rudder linkage was similar to the elevator linkage using a right angle bend in the end of the carbon rod that connected to the actuator. The other end used a thin metal wire with a "Z" bend in one and connected with a small piece of wire insulation. So far, I have not connected the rudders together.

I started mimicking the Lockheed P-38E for my finished look and created a nose rod from a wooden toothpick. It simply pulls out for safety when flying. I'll make a trip to my LHS soon to get some small stars-n-bars decals for the wing and fuselage.

Next, after I position the Lithium cell, i'll take some weight and current measurements.

dhurd

Ray,
Here is an image that may shed some light on it. The assembly would span between the two rudders and the rubber hinge material would be attached to each rudder.
Let me know if you need more clarification.

Cyberflexx

Greg,

Could you use this P38 with those cheap 2 channel planes, you know the ones that only use the propeller to turn and thrust to climb?
like this one.. http://www.raidentech.com/susomirecorc.html I might have to modify the battery to handle the bigger motors. (but they may be the same size)

I have one of those planes, and it flies very well and alot of fun. Just had an idea of putting its electronics in the p38, so I wouldnt have to invest in more RC equipment as I think my GWS flight pack will be too heavy.

Anyone, please let me know what you think of this conversion idea.


Thanks in advance..

Greg Covey

It should work ok. Remember that you only have on/off control of the motor and the rudder has left/off/right control so it will likely only be an outdoor flyer.

Greg Covey

I cut a channel into the inside of the fuselage and pushed the Lithium cell into the front area so that it just meets with the push-on nose. A channel needs to be cut in both the top and bottom for the cell to slide up front.

The extra actuator wire was wrapped in a circle and held down with a small wedge of Depron foam.

The bottom hatch simply presses on and seems to stay put.

Greg Covey

The plane balanced on the rear third of the plastic wing strut. This was a good starting place to try the maiden flight.

Greg Covey

The weekend's blizzard prevented me from getting to my LHS for military decals. I measured 0.89amps at full throttle with my micro watt meter using a single 250mAh Lithium cell. The micro watt meter used a receiver battery to stay functioning at this low voltage.

My Micro P-38 was RTF at 1.9oz including the 0.2oz DU 250mAh Lithium cell.

Greg Covey

I decided that the current Winter weather would not likely allow me to test fly the micro P38 outside before our next indoor flying event. To provide the best turning capability in a small gym-size area, I connected both rudders together using a thin carbon rod and two small pieces of rubber band from the DU actuator kit.

Since I could easily measure the distance needed between the rudders, I decided to use only a single carbon rod. The rod was attached to the rubber "hinge" pieces using CA and kicker. I cut a small section of the rubber piece away so that the carbon bar could fit within the width of the rubberband.

Next, I cut a foam wedge out of the rear on each rudder and test fit the bar before gluing. Be certain to cut the wedges high enough so that the carbon bar does not interfere with the elevator movement.

I used a small amount of UHU Por glue to attach the rubber hinges (and bar) to the rudders because it sets very fast. Once I insured that the rudders were aligned, I knew it would not move while I let it dry for a few hours.

The two rudders can now turn in unison without binding.

WarpdSpazm

OK, I'm finally seeing this... (I know.. I'm slow on the uptake sometimes). You just glue the rod to a small piece of a rubber band? and then glue the other side of the band into/onto the surface? Wow, it's so simple, I'd never have thought of that.

Hotshot87

I just got my two P-38 kits the other day...
I noticed that on the wing, there is tape on the leading edge as well as down the middle.
Is there any reason to leave this on?


Second note...
I notice there has been some talk about adding ailerons to this kit...
I may have a solution that would only add the weight of two CF pushrods.
Will let DWE and this site know how is works out

Tim Wolff

My Feedback: (4)

What are your thoughts about adding alierons??
Have you noticed a bowing of the elevator?
There should now be a few of us working on these now. I'm eyeballing hinging the rudders below the stab in addition to those above. It would also be very easy to couple the alierons and rudder mechanically. Some rudder mix may be needed with alierons.

Mike Taylor

My Feedback: (1)

There is an easy way to add ailerons. I use .030" CF rod as the torque rod and as a surface stiffener, and 1/32" aluminum tubing for the bearings for the torque rod. In the picture below, the Al tubing penetrates the fuselage, the CF rod extends into the fuse, and the 1.64" plywood horns are CA'd to the rod. There is another Al tube at the wing tip. The aileron is CA's to the torque rod (foam-safe CA, of course). The same thing could work on the P-38 with another tube passing through the booms. Two bearings work fine in the plane pictured, three MAY cause some binding if the wing flexs a lot during high spped manuvers. If you go this route, make sure that the controls are still free moving when you hold the plane by just the wing tips which should make the wing flex about as much as it is going to...

Hotshot87

My idea was very similar to mikes... But after seeing the pic he posted, I have re-thought it.
The push rod to torque rod idea looks better. But it seems to me this is not a modification to do AFTER the p-38 has been built. I would do it while building it.

Tim Wolff

My Feedback: (4)

Someone else reported that he was able to remove the clear tape on the wings w/o damage. I just painted over mine. Acrylic craft paint dosen't adhere to the tape very well. It goes on the bare foam great.

I agree that alierons would be best done during construction. The Scale outlines look rather small as do the rudders. Prob. fairly accurate, but they "look" too small. I'm hinging the rudders right now. I cut the rudders free 7mm ahead of the scale outline to make them bigger. Similar to the rudders in the pic on the kit box. The portion only above the stab. I have 8mm of defection on the one that is finished. I will couple both rudders. Anyone think that I should have more? Not planning on adding alierons to this one.

Tim Wolff

My Feedback: (4)

What lipo cell are you using Greg? A 210 mAh just squishes in corner to corner on the diagonal w/o removing any material on mine.

Greg Covey

Tim,

I'm using the 250mAh cell from Dynamics Unlimited. It must be slightly larger than your cell.

Tim Wolff

My Feedback: (4)

The 250 mAh e-tec cell is larger. Did you remove some foam from inside the nose to fit it? I'm just curious because it appears that it is well forward and setting vertical. The 210 mAh cell is a nice snug fit w/o any modification.

Greg Covey

Yes, I stated it above that I cut channels into the front pod.

Be sure that your cell can sustain the current needed for both motors. I think I posted about 1 amp somewhere above.