Neurotex

I've started converting my Tempo over to an aircraft simular
to that of the Beechcraft 2000 Starship. I've got one RX left
from another plane but it's from an AA Bipe 2005. I'm thinking
of using the AA jet motors from 2006.
micro, do you believe the 05 RX would be safe handling the
06 jet motors?

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

i dont think they changed anything on the RXs from 05 to 06, other than possible the coding, so the Jet motors should work ok.

is that a WIG/Ekranoplan on your avatar? it looks very cool, and fast!

Neurotex

ok- thanks!
I should be done with the Starship by the middle of the week.
I seen on the history channel where they're going to crush and
burn all of the remaining Starship 2000's. They're carbon fiber
so they're no good for scrap aluminum.
One man bought some for parts for one of the few remaining.

The avatar is the West German RFB X-114

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

i saw that show too, and i have a 3 view of the starship saved on my computer. it seemed like a perfect match for the AAs electronics, but i havent gotten around to building one. it is a very cool plane though, anything that Burt Rutan builds is a step ahead of anyone else, thats for sure (when the starship came out, it was way ahead of its time, especially the electronics). are you building a full fuselage for it, or will it be a profile type?

nick

Neurotex

It's partially full fuselage and carbon fiber. The wing will plug in
the back.
The motors are mounted to the canard which moves up & down
on a spring depending on thrust from the props. When gliding
the canard centers itself.

Neurotex

After looking through some books I ran across a pic of an
ARES combat aircraft so I made up a wing from that. Very
simular to the Beechcraft.
Most of these wing styles have no dihedral. micro, how much
dihedral would you add to the wing? If any.
The wing now is taped in place for the pic.

For some reason my camera makes the framing look fat-
the stringers are only 3/32"

Neurotex

[link=http://adamone.rchomepage.com/cg_canard.htm]canard CG[/link]
[link=http://adamone.rchomepage.com/cg2_canard.htm]canard CG 2 panel wing[/link]

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

i'd shoot for an inch of dihedral on each wing. canard winged planes have a more forward CG than a normal plane, but it makes it pretty stable. if an inch of dihedral looks like its too much, you could probably get away with a little less. if you glue it in place and find you want more dihedral, you could try breaking the glue joint and shimming the wing. it looks good so far though, nice link too, that will probably come in handy at some point.

trim it out like a free flight plane and she should fly well under power.

nick

Neurotex

Thanks again! I'll try an inch on the dihedral.
I entered in all the data into the Canard CG Calculator and found
that the CG is 2" from the LE of the rear wing. What the...?
Could that be right?
That makes me really nose heavy. Just the opposite of what usually
happens to me... being too tail heavy.
I may have to cut down the bottom of the fuselage in front and build
a small RX box in back. Also might have to mount the motors in the
rear like the original Beechcraft.
This be different![sm=stupid.gif]

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

you'd be surprised at how forward the CG might need to be. try taping a penny to the nose and get the CG at 2 inches and give it a light toss, you'll know whether its the right place or not. the canard generates enough lift that the CG has to be placed pretty close to the wing itself. with the CG and the canard wing so close, it makes it more stable, and glides should be nice. you could build a smaller, simpler test plane, just some sheet balsa and find the CG on that without risking the real one.

nick

Neurotex

I've got some 1/2 scale foam & straw planes in the works.
I had to make some changes to lose some weight and get the CG right.
The motors, and the lipo too, will have to be at the trailing edge of the wing.

The original canard idea in this case was sunk but it still can be adjusted
up or down, as will be the wing, by hinging it on a carbon rod.
Next to dope the wing.

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

looks good, Neurotex, i like the look of the main wing, looks sharp you know, you should start some threads for these planes of yours, i think they're more than deserving of some RCUs bandwidth.

nick

MegaByte-2

neurotex;

That is sharp. I like the the moveable canard wing idea. You do need to post some plans of your designs. Unless you plan to kit them.
The 05 Rx's are the same as 06. They used the same BV4,BV5 transistors on the outputs. Even the jets.

I've followed Burt Rutan's designs since the late 70's in Popular Science magazine. A true forerunner. He won the space contract. 2 flights with the same aircraft in 2 weeks.
Great show on tv.

Later,

Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html

Edit: Contacted my ISP. They decided to filter email without notification. Seems they thought even PayPay was to dangerous to pass. All filters have been removed.

Neurotex

Thanks!
I'm now trying to put that spring idea into the wing by hinging
the leading edge. Motor thrust should be able to move it up & down
maybe cutting down on porpoising. Sort'a like a shock absorber.

MegaByte-2

6" F 16C Rudder Actuator AeroAce Gear

A new one for my getting smaller group.
You'll probably have to watch the vid more than once to catch some of the rolls!

AUW - 8.75gm
Thrust - 6.75gm
Stock AA Motor & Prop(balanced)
Lipo - 90ma Etech
Modified Receiver & Actuator - ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
2mm Depron

The vid
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=556283

Check out the new IRLML6401 Mosfet Module at our site!

Enjoy,

Tony
ARS Software & Innovative Solutions
http://www.falcon1.net/~ars/rcmodels.html

Neurotex

Really sharp!
Amazing what you're doing with the AA works.

I sent out my RX to you- should be getting it in a few days.
Hopefully there's still some life in it.

monstermaker13

bump
keeping thread alive

monstermaker13

do you guys think aa jet electronics could fly this plane?
it feels very light
maybe 5-12 grams

ukdave

[sm=shades_smile.gif]Hi this is my first post on the forum hope somone can help me out how do i change the transmitter from channel C to channel A.
I know how to change channel on the reciever so thats not a problem.

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

UKdave, check the aeroace mods thread it's in the links. Tim

xenonrc

okay im building a micro airplane
im using foam core and a little bit of bamboo for struts
its gonna be like 18 cm long when im done
and i have a desine for a 10 cm plane
and a 10 cm heli
but what size engine do i need?
and where are u guys finding the reciever parts and props for these?
cause i have no idea
i was thinking to get the reciever parts from a mini rc car
and the prop from a toy model plane but ive never done this befor so i dont know

micro_builder

My Feedback: (1)

the size of motor and size of wing/plane you'll want will depend on how much everything weighs. bamboo is very strong, but not exactly light weight. the reciever from the mini car you mentioned in another thread is a bit large too. overall weight doesnt really matter though to get a slow controllable plane, all you need is enough wing area to keep things sane.

here's an example: lets say your RX, motor, actuator and battery all come in at 25 grams, and the empty plane comes in at 10 grams. you'll have an All Up Weight of 35 grams. this is a very acceptable weight for a lot of micros. to make sure the plane is slow enough to be controllable though, you'll want to make your wing have a bare minimum of 35 square inches of wing area (i.e. a 10x3.5 inch wing would do). 35 square inches of wing area for 35 grams of weight will be pleanty to stay airborn, but it'll be quicker than if you were to double the wing area to around 100 square inches, then she would start slowing down nicely.

the tricky part about using the mini car parts like the RX, is that sometimes those RXs dont provide enough power or enough range. sometimes it takes a bit of soldering and tinkering to get them to work at their best. plus, you'll need to either make an actuator or rig up the actuator/motor that comes in the car to provide steering. this can also prove difficult for someone new to the hobby. i'm certainly not saying it cant be done though, there's a massive thread over on RCG about using bit cars for airplanes - they've been used for years quite well as a very cheap alternative to the hobby grade stuff.

another much easier way to start would be to use the AeroAce parts. no actuator to deal with, already has the power it needs, pleanty of range, comes with a lipo, and its all in one package that makes mounting everything a lot easier. for an AeroAce powered plane, you can build just about anything. i've built tiny P-38s with 7 or 8 inch wingspans all the way up to a 2 foot long glider. as long as your weight stays around 20 grams or less it'll stand a good chance of flying (the AA parts come in at around 10 grams - if you can build your plane at 10 grams or less, you'll be on a good start).

as for where to get motors, props, and RXs, the motors can be found in a lot of cheap electrical devices, or you can buy them online. same with the props, but they're more easily found online unless you've got a few micro RTFs sitting around already. as for the RX, most here use the AA gear, since its so handy. but there's a handfull of high quality hobby grade RX/ESC combos, but they're more expensive

nick

xenonrc

yea but i want to make somthin a little more old style
its a one wing plane using one engine
and rudders for the climb and steering
i was gonna us some tiny zip zap engines to run the rudder gear
i have plenty of engines should i need them
but i need to get a 3 chanel reciever from some micro rc object
and i dont know of a micro rc that requires 3 chanels

ukdave

Hi Tim thanks for pointing me in the right direction for the AreoAce channel change thread,got it ,done it,piece of cake if it wasnt for guys like you i dare say some of us would never get started in this micro stuff.
Oh by the way i did break the antena wire of when i removed the reciever but ive fitted a new one now its better than ever im sure channel A respond better than channel C.
I own two silverlit AreoAce biplanes they were channel B and channel C but now C has become A they cost me 15uk pounds from tesco supermarket what a buy!
Just finished building Delta wing model its called KANTE its not my design its one i found on the net at www.modellbauvideos.de
Put a bit of lead on the nose to get cg and tried it as a chukie boy does it go cant wait to gut one of the AAs.
[img][/img][img][/img]
Have tried to upload a couple of image files of the two BIPES and of the KANTE cannot see them at the moment so may have not done it right new to this net stuff.
Thanks again TIM
ukdave

FERNDALE AIR FORCE

[link=http://www.flyingtoys.com]flyingtoys.com[/link]Dave, next month you will have the oppotunity to purchase just the gear, without the surrounding plane. Some of the gear should be beefed up as they are selling a 4 motor rig.
Check out ^^^^^, why did it do that?

Thank you for your kind words,

Tim