crazychris46dividedby2

ok so this is going to be one long post. for those of you that are interested in my work on the reflex helicopter, here is the infromation you've been waiting for.


REFLEX MODS LIST V 0.1

specs:

removal of stock fuselage and replaced with custom trimmed blade cx-2 canopy.
antenna tail boom
aero ace props and motors
removal of prop gaurds
removal of skids cross braces
removal of non esential plastic for less weight


how to remove the stock fuselage. you will need the following tools:

exacto knife or razor blade
guitar pic, (or something thin with a smooth unsharpend end)
small tipped screw driver

approx. time: 30 min.

step one-locate the pins on the landing skid, these are located on the inside of the skid. using the small tipped screw driver, press firmly on the tip of the pin until there is enough of the pin on the outer edge expose to grab onto. then simply pull the pin out. repeat for the opposite side. then pull the skid off.
step two-use the razor blade to cut the tail sticker along the seam. be careful not to cut in too deep as the antenna is inside the tail.
step three-use the guitar pic and slowly and gentle push it into the seam to split the 2 halves of the fuselage. each time you get it into the seam, try twisting it just slightly to help split the 2. do this all the way around the seam of the helicopter. once you have it seperated gently push up on the arms for the pusher props and wiggle each side of the body out and down off the skid arms.

prop guard removal.

all that is needed is a safety pin for removing these.

step one-remove the props.
step two-using the safety pin locate and pry up on the clip part of the motor covers. once its up over the clip on the prop guard simply wiggle it backwards until its clear of the clip for the motor cover. there is only 2 clips per side.


antenna tail boom mod!!!

requires removal of stock fuselage

tools:
wire cutters
wire strippers
pliers

materials:
a small sized spare antenna
super glue

step one-locate the clear tubing on the back of the heli used to hold the antenna. peel off the tape that holding the antenna wire to it and extend the wire out towards the back. then carefully wiggle and pull the tubing back and out of the frame.
step two-using the wire cutters, cut off the spare antenna at the base of the second sliding section from the top between the second and third sections. the diameter of this section should be the size of the tubing removed for a better fit. the cut point will be slightly crushed so use a pair of pliers to reshape it the best you can. now test fit it into the hole on the frame where the tubing was. if it fits in but the antenna wiggles, then use the pliers and very gently squeeze the end of the antenna until it fits snuggly without much play. your going to want it to slide in until it hits the rotor shaft casing. once its in place and your happy with the fit and look use a drop or two of super glue on the front and back sides of the peice that the antenna is slide through.
step three- take your antenna wire and strip about half an inch off of the end of it. this is to allow contact with the antenna for greater reception. next wrap the wire around the antenna from front to back, and when you reach the end twist the bare wire onto the tip for the connection.

variation-if you dont like the look of the wire being wrapped around the antenna, then you could easily strip about an inch or two off the end of the wire and ball it up and slide the wire inside the antenna. this would have to be done before the antenna is glued to the frame.

aero ace motor mod:

tools:
wire cutters

materials:
electrical tape
double sided foam tape
2 aero ace motors

step one- remove the motor covers.
step two-use the wire cutters and cut the wires to the motor off right at the motor end. strip off about a 1/4 inch of tubing. then slide the wires through the circular holders on the motor arms so that you have enough free play to connect the new motors.
step three-strip the wires on the ends on the aero ace motors equal to the amount of the wire striped from the heli. connect the motor wires to the heli wires and using the prop for the side being connected turn on and test the motor to see that forward work as forward. if not then switch the wire connection. then re test. if it works properly then use a 1/4 inch by 1/4 piece of double sided foam tape and wrap the bare end of the wires so that no bare wire is exposed. repeat for the opposite side.
step four-using the wire cutters make a cut in each the circular wire holders. then push the wires back into the holders. you might need to use pliers to re close the holders enough to keep the wires from popping out.
step five-take the foam cover ends of the wires and move them up and onto the rotor shaft casing as seen in my pics and stick them to the casing. then take a peice of electrical tape about 3 inches long, and cut it in half length wise so that it half as wide. then use it to secure the wire to the casing as shown in the pics. or if you dont have enough wire length to reach this spot or dont like it this way mount them wherever. the key is to keep them awat from any moving objects and to ensure that the bare wires are sealed from contacting each other or ant other electrical parts on the heli.

cx-2 custom trimmed canopy.

tools:
scissors

materials:
blade cx-2 canopy.

step one- i used scissors to cut the canopy of the cx-2 just behind the red line across the center of the window so that im only using the front half of the canopy. then i cut slits on the sides to allow it to slide over the skid arms. just above these slits i drilled holes and put the rubber gromets into the holes just as it is normally on the canopy. then i took the carbon fiber shaft and slide it through a spot on the frame between the rotor shaft casing and the top half of the lower frame where there is a slight angled opening. once its in place i took the ends of the "cf" shaft and slide them onto the gromets as it normally mounts.

lighter blades:

simply remove the stickers from the blades, then re-balance them using the dynamic balancing guide i posted. adds a lil more stability to it.

waterboy

Looks great Chris! How does it fly? Range has been an issue with both of my reflex's. The longer antenna looks like the range issue is solved. Did you mod the tx. I have read that the thruster stick can be made 360 deg by removing something on the inside. I want to try that but... so far no nerve! Oops , maybe it was you that talked about the tx mod? Guess I should look for a suitable fuslage before I cut mine up. The cx2 canopy looks great! It will be tough to actually reduce weight by changing the fuselage since the styro is ugly but fairly light. Thanks for the detail & the pics. AWESOME!

crazychris46dividedby2

yes i did the tx mod. if you take apart the tc the circuit board is screwed to the controller housing. unscrew it and there is the thruster stick, you'll see a silver metal pin on the base of the thruster stick. slide off the plastic ball base and then use wire cutters to cut the metal pin off. it does allow the stick to move 360, but it wont change the controls. the reason for this is that once you have the circuit board off you'll notice that the control input for the thrusters have little rubber buttons, these arent proportional. if it were proportional then it would make a difference. but all it really does is allow you to give quicker control imputs. it is a plus, but not a worth while mod for the begginer. im looking into finding a way to allow steering trim, which i think air hogs should have done from the get go.

also i want to add that doing the antenna tail boom does increase range. and on the plus side if you want a little more forwad drift from the heli all you need to do is simply slide the antenna in as if you were closing it when done flying. what this does is change the leverage on the tail, decreasing the length gives it more forward movement, increasing the length decreases the forward movement.

to answer your question waterboy, this thing has incredible forward movement, however the force that the flybar puts on the heli will act against the thrust from the props. if you give it a few short burst of forward thrust then this effect doesnt really cause an opposite reaction. but if you give it full forward thrust for a longer period of time then it does try togo back in the direction that it came. im working to try to find a way to dampen the effect of the flybar at the moment. so as soon as i find something this thread will be the first place that i post it. good luck with your modding guys, chris

cx2cp+

hmmm...you've halfway made a coaxial-bladed cheyenne! - cool !

The Cheyenne was, to say the least, a rather exotic-looking aircraft. The forward end of its long and narrow fuselage was dominated by an outsized segmented canopy covering a tandem, two-seat cockpit, while the tailboom supported a large ventral fin, a conventional anti-torque tail rotor, and a decidedly unconventional pusher propeller. A pair of small, low-set stub wings fixed to the fuselage sides contributed to the Cheyenne's hybrid look, as did its retractable, wheeled main landing gear. The AH-56A's ungainly appearance was deceptive, however, for in flight the craft was amazingly agile and extremely fast. The Cheyenne's impressive performance was the product of an innovative propulsion system built around a 3435shp General Electric shaft turbine engine. This powerplant drove a rigid, four-bladed, gyro-stabilized main rotor, the tail-mounted anti-torque rotor, and the pusher propeller at the extreme end of the tailboom. During vertical and hovering flight all power was applied to the main and anti-torque rotors, while during forward flight all but about 700shp was shafted to the pusher propeller. In forward flight lift was generated by the stub wings and windmilling main rotor, and in absolutely 'clean' configuration the AH-56A was capable of sea-level speeds in excess of 400kph. - http://www.aviastar.org/helicopters_...k_cheyenne.php


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