BJCraft Episode
#626

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For me there are a couple of things to look for on the size of the stab fences. One is a spin entry. If the model will not stay on heading through the stall entry before you kick the rudder you need more or larger fences. Usually this is more prevalent with an upright spin entry. Models will usually stay stable in an inverted entry. The other thing is inside corners. If the model seems to track well in large inside maneuvers but is inconsistent during inside corners, you need more area. Most models will track well through outside loops and corners but if they are shy on fin area and it's placement they will seem to wander during insides.
When you get this right the model will feel more locked in at all times and it will also improve in turbulence.
When you get this right the model will feel more locked in at all times and it will also improve in turbulence.
#628
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Hi,
The characteristics of my Episode for contra drive are weird.
1.5° upthrust in relation with the stab.
-0.7° inc wing in relation with thrustline.
It seems there is a problem with the angle of the front of fuse.
Does anybody have the same problem ?
Vincent
The characteristics of my Episode for contra drive are weird.
1.5° upthrust in relation with the stab.
-0.7° inc wing in relation with thrustline.
It seems there is a problem with the angle of the front of fuse.
Does anybody have the same problem ?
Vincent
#629

Vincent,
Yes, I had the same problem. My Episode was supposed to be one of the first Contra versions produced by BJ.
I purchased it 2 years ago and my airframe is #C44.
I assembled the plane as stock and installed the Contra flush to the nosering. I almost lost the airplane on the test flight because I could not go higher than 1/2 throttle without running out of down elevator.
When I returned to the shop and measured incidences with digital incidence meter, I discovered the following...
Using the canalizer as zero reference...
...the motor/nosering was almost 3 degrees upthrust.
...the wing was 0.8 degrees down
...the stab was also slightly positive
I think that the difference between yours and mine is how we measured.
Since this was totally unacceptable, I rebuilt the plane and re-set the stab zero to the canalizer, the wing at +0.5 degrees to the canalizer, and the motor at -0.25 degrees to the canalizer. During the trimming process, I have changed the wing very slightly, and increased downthrust of the motor to -0.5 degrees.
Also, I had to use a 1-meter stick bolted to the Contra unit and a string to equalize left/right distance to top of vertical stab...to set the motor side thrust to zero because the nosering was 0.5 degrees left, and the fuselage was concave/curved on the left side, causing the plane to yaw in the pulls. This adjustment is extremely critical with the Contra.
I was told that my Episode was the only specimen with these problems. I have not seen other Contra Episodes...only single-blade planes, so I cannot verify.
My Episode looks very odd, with the gap between the top of spinner and nosering at almost 7mm.
However, with all these adjustments, the plane flies very well.
I advise that you do NOT fly it without making the changes first.
If you would like more details, I can email separately, and I speak French as well.
Regards,
John
Yes, I had the same problem. My Episode was supposed to be one of the first Contra versions produced by BJ.
I purchased it 2 years ago and my airframe is #C44.
I assembled the plane as stock and installed the Contra flush to the nosering. I almost lost the airplane on the test flight because I could not go higher than 1/2 throttle without running out of down elevator.
When I returned to the shop and measured incidences with digital incidence meter, I discovered the following...
Using the canalizer as zero reference...
...the motor/nosering was almost 3 degrees upthrust.
...the wing was 0.8 degrees down
...the stab was also slightly positive
I think that the difference between yours and mine is how we measured.
Since this was totally unacceptable, I rebuilt the plane and re-set the stab zero to the canalizer, the wing at +0.5 degrees to the canalizer, and the motor at -0.25 degrees to the canalizer. During the trimming process, I have changed the wing very slightly, and increased downthrust of the motor to -0.5 degrees.
Also, I had to use a 1-meter stick bolted to the Contra unit and a string to equalize left/right distance to top of vertical stab...to set the motor side thrust to zero because the nosering was 0.5 degrees left, and the fuselage was concave/curved on the left side, causing the plane to yaw in the pulls. This adjustment is extremely critical with the Contra.
I was told that my Episode was the only specimen with these problems. I have not seen other Contra Episodes...only single-blade planes, so I cannot verify.
My Episode looks very odd, with the gap between the top of spinner and nosering at almost 7mm.
However, with all these adjustments, the plane flies very well.
I advise that you do NOT fly it without making the changes first.
If you would like more details, I can email separately, and I speak French as well.
Regards,
John
Last edited by Astropattern; 02-26-2015 at 05:47 AM.
#630
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Hi John
Thank you for your reply.
Apparently your plane has even more problems than mine.
Have you contacted BJ craft to report them?
They should certainly be aware of the problem. If the mold has a problem BJ craft is realized this and they must know who they distributed these aircraft.
Anyway I'm happy to see that bad news brings good and know that you speak French and delighted to communicate by email with you.
My email is: [email protected]
Regards,
Vincent
Thank you for your reply.
Apparently your plane has even more problems than mine.
Have you contacted BJ craft to report them?
They should certainly be aware of the problem. If the mold has a problem BJ craft is realized this and they must know who they distributed these aircraft.
Anyway I'm happy to see that bad news brings good and know that you speak French and delighted to communicate by email with you.
My email is: [email protected]
Regards,
Vincent
#632

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An update to my posts of several months ago regarding a tendency to drop a wing prematurely in spin approaches. I experimented with a couple type of wing fences. I initially thought they were helpful, but later concluded that I couldn't see a consistent improvement.
What did help was keeping the motor/props spinning in the approach: not much thrust, but it helped a lot!
As a disclaimer: my plane has a contra and I am flying at 5500ft altitude, so your results may not match mine
Dan
What did help was keeping the motor/props spinning in the approach: not much thrust, but it helped a lot!
As a disclaimer: my plane has a contra and I am flying at 5500ft altitude, so your results may not match mine

Dan
#633

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Guys I have a closeout special on the remaining stock of Episodes ARC and Tony Scheme.
You can get a great savings on them as they are all on a deep discount sale. The ARC's are now under $1000
I only have a few left.
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/bj-craft-tony-episode-arf
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/bj-craft-episode-arc
Have a great day! Mike
You can get a great savings on them as they are all on a deep discount sale. The ARC's are now under $1000
I only have a few left.
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/bj-craft-tony-episode-arf
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/bj-craft-episode-arc
Have a great day! Mike
#635

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I just got a new partially assembled Episode.
One of the hatch latch base broke off.
What kind of glue is best to attach this back? Since there is no way for me to see inside from bottom, I am not sure how to align it with pin.
Any idea?
Also, does anyone have the plywood jig for stab fence attachment?
I believe there are 2 different angle for the the stab fences.
If anyone have one that are not being used, please let me know.
Thanks,
Ihncheol
One of the hatch latch base broke off.
What kind of glue is best to attach this back? Since there is no way for me to see inside from bottom, I am not sure how to align it with pin.
Any idea?
Also, does anyone have the plywood jig for stab fence attachment?
I believe there are 2 different angle for the the stab fences.
If anyone have one that are not being used, please let me know.
Thanks,
Ihncheol
#636

Join Date: Nov 2007
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Hello from Idaho,
I just purchased the ARK version Episode from F3A. Tracking tells me it is supposed to be here Tuesday...whoohoo!
Trying to figure out what color and color scheme I will be making it.
As to the hatch latch reattachment question. As far as lining it up, perhaps you could substitute in a same size pin/dowel rather than the hatch itself for alignment purposes. That way you could see where to apply the glue.
Kerry
I just purchased the ARK version Episode from F3A. Tracking tells me it is supposed to be here Tuesday...whoohoo!
Trying to figure out what color and color scheme I will be making it.
As to the hatch latch reattachment question. As far as lining it up, perhaps you could substitute in a same size pin/dowel rather than the hatch itself for alignment purposes. That way you could see where to apply the glue.
Kerry
#637

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Hi modelers,
I recently purchased the ARC version of the Episode from F3A Unlimited. It was delivered today and I am excited to begin the assembly and applying coloring scheme.
So I have a question about the Episode...actually several questions and will probably have several more in the future.
Anyway, in reading this forum I see that the "H" stab is preset set to "zero" incidence. My question is this;
Does the airframe canopy flange also measure to this same "zero"? and,
Does the zero incidence of the stab equate to the zero datum line of the airframe?
Thanks in advance,
Kerry
I recently purchased the ARC version of the Episode from F3A Unlimited. It was delivered today and I am excited to begin the assembly and applying coloring scheme.
So I have a question about the Episode...actually several questions and will probably have several more in the future.
Anyway, in reading this forum I see that the "H" stab is preset set to "zero" incidence. My question is this;
Does the airframe canopy flange also measure to this same "zero"? and,
Does the zero incidence of the stab equate to the zero datum line of the airframe?
Thanks in advance,
Kerry
#638

Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Sugar Land, Tx
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Hi modelers,
I recently purchased the ARC version of the Episode from F3A Unlimited. It was delivered today and I am excited to begin the assembly and applying coloring scheme.
So I have a question about the Episode...actually several questions and will probably have several more in the future.
Anyway, in reading this forum I see that the "H" stab is preset set to "zero" incidence. My question is this;
Does the airframe canopy flange also measure to this same "zero"? and,
Does the zero incidence of the stab equate to the zero datum line of the airframe?
Thanks in advance,
Kerry
I recently purchased the ARC version of the Episode from F3A Unlimited. It was delivered today and I am excited to begin the assembly and applying coloring scheme.
So I have a question about the Episode...actually several questions and will probably have several more in the future.
Anyway, in reading this forum I see that the "H" stab is preset set to "zero" incidence. My question is this;
Does the airframe canopy flange also measure to this same "zero"? and,
Does the zero incidence of the stab equate to the zero datum line of the airframe?
Thanks in advance,
Kerry
Sheldon
#639

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Sheldon,
Thank you for the quick reply.
I have read several of Brian's articles and found him to be a wealth of knowledge. He explains things in a way I can understand and I like that. I will look for Earls articles as well and read up on what he has to say.
I know the Episode is not the latest in Pattern ship design or evolution, but it is still leaps and bounds beyond my abilities at this time and should get me through several years as I improve my abilities. I just want to have it set up as perfect as I can.
Thanks again,
Kerry
Thank you for the quick reply.
I have read several of Brian's articles and found him to be a wealth of knowledge. He explains things in a way I can understand and I like that. I will look for Earls articles as well and read up on what he has to say.
I know the Episode is not the latest in Pattern ship design or evolution, but it is still leaps and bounds beyond my abilities at this time and should get me through several years as I improve my abilities. I just want to have it set up as perfect as I can.
Thanks again,
Kerry
#640

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you will find the Episode to be very responsive airplane. The rudder is incrediably sensitive and effective and you will find you have to slow the rate of movement to avoid too much correction. I fly intermediate and the airplane flys much better than my abilities. The only other thing is on landing the step taper wings tend to give up flying quickly and suddenly if your approach to landing is too slow. Use some caution and come in a little hotter than you think you need too or put in a landing mix that throws a little spoileron (about 15 degrees) into your final approach to touchdown. That way you will be able to maintain a little throttle until you are completely down. Earl started using a pair of Nuance wings on his Episode and could not see any difference in the snap maneuvers. I modified my wings and added a false leading edge that straightened out the taper and it made landing a lot easier and more predictable with no loss in maneuver performance that I can see. Have fun.
Sheldon
Sheldon
#641

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Okay, next question.
I am using the Himax 6330-210 Pro motor. I received the template for the back mounted motor mount from Mike at F3AU. It says Prolog on it but I am told that both the Prolog and Episode fuselages are very similar if not the same shape up front. My problem is it is not even very close to fitting inside the fuselage. Is there anyone still reading this thread that used this motor/mount assy that could shed some light on it for me. A photo or two of your mount. Are the two fuselages actually the same?
I have now made a cardboard template off of the template from F3A Unlimited that Mike sent me and am in the process of trimming it to make it fit, from there I will make a balsa replica of it and then the actual ply mount. Just wondering if anyone has some helpful tips or hints.
Kerry
I am using the Himax 6330-210 Pro motor. I received the template for the back mounted motor mount from Mike at F3AU. It says Prolog on it but I am told that both the Prolog and Episode fuselages are very similar if not the same shape up front. My problem is it is not even very close to fitting inside the fuselage. Is there anyone still reading this thread that used this motor/mount assy that could shed some light on it for me. A photo or two of your mount. Are the two fuselages actually the same?
I have now made a cardboard template off of the template from F3A Unlimited that Mike sent me and am in the process of trimming it to make it fit, from there I will make a balsa replica of it and then the actual ply mount. Just wondering if anyone has some helpful tips or hints.
Kerry
#642

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Someone can inform me about the motor side thrust and down thrust non contra Episode have originaly? From the thread I found is 2,5 degrees right but nothing about down thrust. Many increase both, but not information about original degrees or after adjust. Please remember I am asking for a non contra Episode. For contra there is many information in the thread.Thanks in advance.
#643

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Mine is zero down, 2.5 to the right.
Next week the plane should be finished; all we need now is some decent weather for first flight!
Setup is straight forward with Pletty Advance, YGE-90, BLS for aileron/elevator, JR8411DS for rudder. Mezlik 3 blade 20x13 EL for prop.
Next week the plane should be finished; all we need now is some decent weather for first flight!
Setup is straight forward with Pletty Advance, YGE-90, BLS for aileron/elevator, JR8411DS for rudder. Mezlik 3 blade 20x13 EL for prop.
Last edited by wagen017; 02-20-2016 at 07:53 AM.
#644

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Wagen017,
Looking forward to hearing the results of your maiden flight. Would love to see a picture of your plane. Did you build the ARF or the ARC?
I built the ARC and love the way it flies now. Initially, I was pretty disappointed in it's performance, but by following advise from those on this thread, I've got it dialed in now. Good luck.
Kevin
Looking forward to hearing the results of your maiden flight. Would love to see a picture of your plane. Did you build the ARF or the ARC?
I built the ARC and love the way it flies now. Initially, I was pretty disappointed in it's performance, but by following advise from those on this thread, I've got it dialed in now. Good luck.
Kevin
#648

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#649

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So I know the Episode is a couple of generations back in the BJ Craft line of pattern planes. However, now three years after I purchased mine, I finally finished it and took it up for it's maiden flight yesterday. So here is a quick recap of the last three years.
I purchased the last ARC version that Mike at F3A had at what I thought was a killer price. When I received it I found upon opening up the box that the fuselage had extensive damaged. The bulkheads were crushed, the sides of the fuselage was cracked in several places and the belly was warped, dented and dinged. I informed Mike of the situation and showed him some photos. He said I could send it back at his cost and get something else. Because I like to tinker and build, albeit at a slow pace, I asked if there were any other options. A deal was struck that I could keep it at even a greater discounted price.
So after three years in between other projects of glassing sanding, straitening, filling, sanding glassing sanding, more sanding, and eventually painting and covering, I finished it up and as I said it flew for the first time yesterday. As I was the only one at the field I didn't get any in flight photos but I took these photos to help remember the day.
After all my work It ended up weighing 11.18 lbs. with my heavy 5400mha packs. I think with my 4600 packs I'll be under the 11 lbs. It has the Hacker Q80/13 motor with a Jeti Spin Pro 99 ESC and JR servos.
The last time I flew was last September at the D8/D7 shootout in Medford. So needless to say I was a bit nervous for this to be my first flight. Everything went great and she lives to fly another day. It fly's much different than my Integral. Now I just need to get as much stick time as I can and lots more tuning to do as I get used to this new to me airplane. Here are a few photos.
Kerry
I purchased the last ARC version that Mike at F3A had at what I thought was a killer price. When I received it I found upon opening up the box that the fuselage had extensive damaged. The bulkheads were crushed, the sides of the fuselage was cracked in several places and the belly was warped, dented and dinged. I informed Mike of the situation and showed him some photos. He said I could send it back at his cost and get something else. Because I like to tinker and build, albeit at a slow pace, I asked if there were any other options. A deal was struck that I could keep it at even a greater discounted price.
So after three years in between other projects of glassing sanding, straitening, filling, sanding glassing sanding, more sanding, and eventually painting and covering, I finished it up and as I said it flew for the first time yesterday. As I was the only one at the field I didn't get any in flight photos but I took these photos to help remember the day.
After all my work It ended up weighing 11.18 lbs. with my heavy 5400mha packs. I think with my 4600 packs I'll be under the 11 lbs. It has the Hacker Q80/13 motor with a Jeti Spin Pro 99 ESC and JR servos.
The last time I flew was last September at the D8/D7 shootout in Medford. So needless to say I was a bit nervous for this to be my first flight. Everything went great and she lives to fly another day. It fly's much different than my Integral. Now I just need to get as much stick time as I can and lots more tuning to do as I get used to this new to me airplane. Here are a few photos.
Kerry