Nuance
#251

Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Galway, IRELAND
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Hey Tony, sounds like you had a superb first secession with your Nuance. The front of my battery is a little forward of the undercarriage mount ( the centre of the battery is exactly at the rear of the mount). Which means my final Cg is at approx 270mm from trailing edge. Obviously the main battery position depends on where the rest of the components are positioned.
Did you do an actual reading of the motor temp or are you judging by feel? Mine is running at approx 55 deg C (130 F) . I think this is within the recommended spec.
Did you do an actual reading of the motor temp or are you judging by feel? Mine is running at approx 55 deg C (130 F) . I think this is within the recommended spec.
#252

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I measured mine after a flight and it was at 148. But that was on a 95 degree day. And in F not C. I think it should be cooler so I'll do some baffling.
I did get the correct ratio and props on it for today so I'll see how that works.
I did get the correct ratio and props on it for today so I'll see how that works.
#254

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Steve Neu says between 120 to 140 F (49 to 60 C) is normal for an F3A plane, so more airflow is the answer. A baffle to bring air to the rear of the motor is working for me with larger opening in the front of the fus.
#255

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Mike, I just got the good scale from Mike Greear. The complete airframe minus the motor battery is 3,622 grams. This is including the 730mAh RC battery. I am currently using E-Flite 5,000mAh packs which are a little on the heavy side at 1,367 grams for the complete pack. So that makes it 4989 RTF. The Neu packs I used at the Nats last year weigh 1199 grams, so with those it's 4821 grams.
I got 4 flights in today before the wind and the heat (100 degrees) became more then I wanted to stay. I checked the gear ratio I had in it and I am using the 10.15. I put a 22" pitch cut to 21" dia. on the rear and a 20" pitch cut to 21.5" dia, along with shaping the tips like an APC. I was pretty happy with the pace and the power in the wind. Made a few more changes to throws and expos and I'm liking it more and more.
Just one thing, really watch leaving it in a vehicle on a hot day! When I pulled it out of the van later in the day the fuse had dimpled in the back where it had been resting in my cradle. I was able to get it out with some careful heat from a heat gun, then hitting it with a water soaked rag. But the fuse is very light so be careful!
I got 4 flights in today before the wind and the heat (100 degrees) became more then I wanted to stay. I checked the gear ratio I had in it and I am using the 10.15. I put a 22" pitch cut to 21" dia. on the rear and a 20" pitch cut to 21.5" dia, along with shaping the tips like an APC. I was pretty happy with the pace and the power in the wind. Made a few more changes to throws and expos and I'm liking it more and more.
Just one thing, really watch leaving it in a vehicle on a hot day! When I pulled it out of the van later in the day the fuse had dimpled in the back where it had been resting in my cradle. I was able to get it out with some careful heat from a heat gun, then hitting it with a water soaked rag. But the fuse is very light so be careful!
#256
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Anybody opting for a CG outside of the 265-270mm (from TE) "sweet spot" mentioned above in this thread? I think I got the last one from F3AU and have started my build with the Advance. With a few parts on the way in this week, any flight report and/or build updates most appreciated! Thanks.
#258
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Got it. Right now, my plan is to forgo the stock gear and install replacement gear from the start. Hoping that less rake will solve the problem. Thoughts?
#262


I tried to remove the blemish from the clearcoat caused by the shipping bag....I tried Windex....almost everything I could think of other than clearcoat rubbing compound.
Then I tried methanol....this really works.
Get a paper towel sloppy wet and start rubbing the area....then before it dries wipe with a soft paper towel...I like VIVA because it actually absorbs instead of just pushing around whatever you are wiping.
I have a large stock from soaking up oil....kaff...
Anyway.....the blemishes go away and stay gone.
I didnt bother to do the white areas because they dont show the marks...the colored areas clean up nicely and seem to shine more too.
I'm using an Advance motor so I cut a piece of FR4 for the front mount and the rear mounting tabs.
I used Hysol to hold it all together.
I used Hysol once before on a Partner and it worked very well.....this stuff won't pop off like hobby epoxies.
I dorked my E-Valiant and the firewall came out of the nose clean.....the epoxy just popped off the side of the fuse even after I had sanded it and cleaned with acetone before gluing.
I had used a very popular 30 minuite epoxy sold in hobby shops.
Anyway.....I'm using Hysol from here on in.
If anyone needs the details on where to get this stuff at an affordable price....shoot me a PM.
I ground out the hatch latch......and installed a "Best" latch.
Usually F3A/U has these but is out of stock now.....I got a couple last week from Atlanta Hobby.
This works slick....got one on the Gaudius too.
If anyone wants an undamaged set of Valiant wings, stabs, rudder, gear, canopy and pants....lemme know.....I have everything except the fuse.....arrrgh
Then I tried methanol....this really works.
Get a paper towel sloppy wet and start rubbing the area....then before it dries wipe with a soft paper towel...I like VIVA because it actually absorbs instead of just pushing around whatever you are wiping.
I have a large stock from soaking up oil....kaff...
Anyway.....the blemishes go away and stay gone.
I didnt bother to do the white areas because they dont show the marks...the colored areas clean up nicely and seem to shine more too.
I'm using an Advance motor so I cut a piece of FR4 for the front mount and the rear mounting tabs.
I used Hysol to hold it all together.
I used Hysol once before on a Partner and it worked very well.....this stuff won't pop off like hobby epoxies.
I dorked my E-Valiant and the firewall came out of the nose clean.....the epoxy just popped off the side of the fuse even after I had sanded it and cleaned with acetone before gluing.
I had used a very popular 30 minuite epoxy sold in hobby shops.
Anyway.....I'm using Hysol from here on in.
If anyone needs the details on where to get this stuff at an affordable price....shoot me a PM.
I ground out the hatch latch......and installed a "Best" latch.
Usually F3A/U has these but is out of stock now.....I got a couple last week from Atlanta Hobby.
This works slick....got one on the Gaudius too.
If anyone wants an undamaged set of Valiant wings, stabs, rudder, gear, canopy and pants....lemme know.....I have everything except the fuse.....arrrgh
#263

My Feedback: (41)

ORIGINAL: Dave Harmon
I tried to remove the blemish from the clearcoat caused by the shipping bag....I tried Windex....almost everything I could think of other than clearcoat rubbing compound.
Then I tried methanol....this really works.
Get a paper towel sloppy wet and start rubbing the area....then before it dries wipe with a soft paper towel...I like VIVA because it actually absorbs instead of just pushing around whatever you are wiping.
I have a large stock from soaking up oil....kaff...
Anyway.....the blemishes go away and stay gone.
I didnt bother to do the white areas because they dont show the marks...the colored areas clean up nicely and seem to shine more too.
I'm using an Advance motor so I cut a piece of FR4 for the front mount and the rear mounting tabs.
I used Hysol to hold it all together.
I used Hysol once before on a Partner and it worked very well.....this stuff won't pop off like hobby epoxies.
I dorked my E-Valiant and the firewall came out of the nose clean.....the epoxy just popped off the side of the fuse even after I had sanded it and cleaned with acetone before gluing.
I had used a very popular 30 minuite epoxy sold in hobby shops.
Anyway.....I'm using Hysol from here on in.
If anyone needs the details on where to get this stuff at an affordable price....shoot me a PM.
I ground out the hatch latch......and installed a "Best" latch.
Usually F3A/U has these but is out of stock now.....I got a couple last week from Atlanta Hobby.
This works slick....got one on the Gaudius too.
If anyone wants an undamaged set of Valiant wings, stabs, rudder, gear, canopy and pants....lemme know.....I have everything except the fuse.....arrrgh
I tried to remove the blemish from the clearcoat caused by the shipping bag....I tried Windex....almost everything I could think of other than clearcoat rubbing compound.
Then I tried methanol....this really works.
Get a paper towel sloppy wet and start rubbing the area....then before it dries wipe with a soft paper towel...I like VIVA because it actually absorbs instead of just pushing around whatever you are wiping.
I have a large stock from soaking up oil....kaff...
Anyway.....the blemishes go away and stay gone.
I didnt bother to do the white areas because they dont show the marks...the colored areas clean up nicely and seem to shine more too.
I'm using an Advance motor so I cut a piece of FR4 for the front mount and the rear mounting tabs.
I used Hysol to hold it all together.
I used Hysol once before on a Partner and it worked very well.....this stuff won't pop off like hobby epoxies.
I dorked my E-Valiant and the firewall came out of the nose clean.....the epoxy just popped off the side of the fuse even after I had sanded it and cleaned with acetone before gluing.
I had used a very popular 30 minuite epoxy sold in hobby shops.
Anyway.....I'm using Hysol from here on in.
If anyone needs the details on where to get this stuff at an affordable price....shoot me a PM.
I ground out the hatch latch......and installed a "Best" latch.
Usually F3A/U has these but is out of stock now.....I got a couple last week from Atlanta Hobby.
This works slick....got one on the Gaudius too.
If anyone wants an undamaged set of Valiant wings, stabs, rudder, gear, canopy and pants....lemme know.....I have everything except the fuse.....arrrgh
#264

ORIGINAL: mups53
Dave is isopropyl alcohol and methanal the same thing?
Dave is isopropyl alcohol and methanal the same thing?
This is methyl alcohol (methanol):
http://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=67-56-1
This is Isopropyl Alcohol:
http://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=67630
#265


ORIGINAL: Silent-AV8R
Methanol and Isopropyl alcohol are NOT the same thing.
This is methyl alcohol (methanol):
http://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=67-56-1
This is Isopropyl Alcohol:
http://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=67630
ORIGINAL: mups53
Dave is isopropyl alcohol and methanal the same thing?
Dave is isopropyl alcohol and methanal the same thing?
This is methyl alcohol (methanol):
http://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=67-56-1
This is Isopropyl Alcohol:
http://webbook.nist.gov/cgi/cbook.cgi?ID=67630
Don't put mixed fuel on the fuselage though.....that fuel has nitro and oil in it.
I don't think the paint on the Nuance is nitro proof...at least the base coat/clear coat I have use before is not fuel proof.
You might try denatured alcohol if you cant find any methanol.
Speed shops and perhaps some hobby shops might have straight methanol if they mix fuel.
If you have any FAI fuel you could try that....it is supposed to have only oil and methanol in it...nothing else....
#266

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What are guys using for wheels? The skinny little plastic-hub wheels that came with my plane look like they'll stand up to 1 takeoff and maybe 1 good landing.
All the other wheels I have in my stash are a bit wider and will probably rub on the narrow wheel pants.
Thanks, Dan
All the other wheels I have in my stash are a bit wider and will probably rub on the narrow wheel pants.
Thanks, Dan
#267

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Stock wheels are working just fine for me. But I do fly off pavement.
I am still very early in the trimming process but my CG is on the wing tube. That is quite a bit forward from the recommended location.
I am still very early in the trimming process but my CG is on the wing tube. That is quite a bit forward from the recommended location.
#269
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The wing tube on mine runs appx 280-300mm from TE. Balancing there is really different from the design notes, etc. Interesting and different, how does it fly for you there?
#270

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Interesting Tony says that, as I am not far behind that point. My C/G is WELL in front of the recommended location as well. I ended up creating a flaperon/elevator mix for takeoff and landings that help keep the tail on the ground. On pavement, this would not be an issue as all, but on grass I just have to be very careful. I start the takeoff roll very softly with full elevator to keep the tail on the ground. Once it is rolling it isn't an issue. I was able to put mine on the bench on Monday night and I'm up to about 280ish on my C/G. I really like the plane there.
Arch
Arch
#271

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On pavement I have seen no issues on take-off or landing. In fact, it is very good. I suspect if you change to a wider wheel and wheel pant for grass you would have a lot less of a nose-over issue. I think the narrow wheel that comes with the model is more of the problem.
I only have 20 flights on mine so I don't want to say that where I have my CG is the best way to go. But so far I really like it. When I have tried to move it back I didn't like it. But that doesn't mean if I try it again and combine it with some better throws and expos that I might not like the rearward CG. I usually am not fully pleased with how a model is working until I have tried a lot of stuff. And that usually takes 100 flights or so. Even then I'm often still trying stuff.
Right now the biggest problem I am having flying it is seeing it well. It has been very bright and sunny out here the last few days and my eyes now don't handle that well. I'm having a hard time seeing the wings when flying coming towards me and sometimes away from me. I just finished painting the landing gear to see if that will help. I may have to make other changes to the scheme if that doesn't help me out enough.
I only have 20 flights on mine so I don't want to say that where I have my CG is the best way to go. But so far I really like it. When I have tried to move it back I didn't like it. But that doesn't mean if I try it again and combine it with some better throws and expos that I might not like the rearward CG. I usually am not fully pleased with how a model is working until I have tried a lot of stuff. And that usually takes 100 flights or so. Even then I'm often still trying stuff.
Right now the biggest problem I am having flying it is seeing it well. It has been very bright and sunny out here the last few days and my eyes now don't handle that well. I'm having a hard time seeing the wings when flying coming towards me and sometimes away from me. I just finished painting the landing gear to see if that will help. I may have to make other changes to the scheme if that doesn't help me out enough.
#272

My Feedback: (41)

ORIGINAL: TonyF
On pavement I have seen no issues on take-off or landing. In fact, it is very good. I suspect if you change to a wider wheel and wheel pant for grass you would have a lot less of a nose-over issue. I think the narrow wheel that comes with the model is more of the problem.
I only have 20 flights on mine so I don't want to say that where I have my CG is the best way to go. But so far I really like it. When I have tried to move it back I didn't like it. But that doesn't mean if I try it again and combine it with some better throws and expos that I might not like the rearward CG. I usually am not fully pleased with how a model is working until I have tried a lot of stuff. And that usually takes 100 flights or so. Even then I'm often still trying stuff.
Right now the biggest problem I am having flying it is seeing it well. It has been very bright and sunny out here the last few days and my eyes now don't handle that well. I'm having a hard time seeing the wings when flying coming towards me and sometimes away from me. I just finished painting the landing gear to see if that will help. I may have to make other changes to the scheme if that doesn't help me out enough.
On pavement I have seen no issues on take-off or landing. In fact, it is very good. I suspect if you change to a wider wheel and wheel pant for grass you would have a lot less of a nose-over issue. I think the narrow wheel that comes with the model is more of the problem.
I only have 20 flights on mine so I don't want to say that where I have my CG is the best way to go. But so far I really like it. When I have tried to move it back I didn't like it. But that doesn't mean if I try it again and combine it with some better throws and expos that I might not like the rearward CG. I usually am not fully pleased with how a model is working until I have tried a lot of stuff. And that usually takes 100 flights or so. Even then I'm often still trying stuff.
Right now the biggest problem I am having flying it is seeing it well. It has been very bright and sunny out here the last few days and my eyes now don't handle that well. I'm having a hard time seeing the wings when flying coming towards me and sometimes away from me. I just finished painting the landing gear to see if that will help. I may have to make other changes to the scheme if that doesn't help me out enough.
I have had some success with a pair of fit over sun glasses called HD Vision.
http://www.amazon.com/Vision-WrapAro.../dp/B002FJ3TSY
They seem to brighten up everything and really make the plane's colors stand out.
Mike
#273
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Arch, Tony, thanks. What wing incidence is working for these fwd CGs? And how do you find the rudder feel/authority? Mr. Park's notes make a point about his tail area calculations related to his back CG concept, the implication that something might be lost moving CG forward. Could be something lost in translation too, or my understanding of it LOL, but it stands to reason that the stock shallow incidence would have to change. I guess this is also not an issue on Tony's Contra-drive Nuance?
The last of the parts needed to complete should arrive by Monday (including some alternate gear legs to try) so time to hone in on an initial CG. Will try with fixed incidence first to see how I find it. At Sportsman/intermediate level, no need for snappy snaps anyway. If I really can't live with it, will have to go for Gators, I guess. Anyone else with stick time have updated flight reports? Thanks as always!
#274

My Feedback: (45)

Dana,
I will have to measure my incidence as I have been playing with it. I'm significantly more positive than I started and what the plane comes with.
Tony/Mike,
It's not just you guys. I don't know if it is the scheme, or just the shape of the plane, but with wings level, it is hard sometimes to figure out if it is truly on line in yaw. I've caught myself a few times thinking I was tracking straight, when I was actually coming in or out.
Arch
I will have to measure my incidence as I have been playing with it. I'm significantly more positive than I started and what the plane comes with.
Tony/Mike,
It's not just you guys. I don't know if it is the scheme, or just the shape of the plane, but with wings level, it is hard sometimes to figure out if it is truly on line in yaw. I've caught myself a few times thinking I was tracking straight, when I was actually coming in or out.
Arch
#275
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Will be interesting to sort out that yaw issue as visual or aerodynamic: in other words, Contra-drive notwithstanding, is there enough "tail volume" by design for a true track with A CG forward of 270 from TE? All this speculation from my reading of "Designer's Report about Nuance 170." It reads like there are limits to what can be achieved with a forward CG without trade-offs Mr. Park characterizes as "dull phenomena." Could this translate to lack of rudder authority? Or hunting for heading (single prop motor config where P-force is a non-issue)? All that I read there resists going too forward with CG and he even suggests other airframes for this forward feel, etc. Yikes! I hope I like this thing! What a nuisance LOL!