OhD

I saw the same thing you saw Don but on closer examination I saw they covered both the 70 and the 100 on the same page in a disguised two column approach. I'm trying to find out if it can handle a 2S LiPo receiver power supply and if they can I think I'll give it a try.

Jim O

Bill Clark

I run my Futaba motor at 24khz (the highest for the ICE 100) and it seems to like it but I'm wondering if some othermotors will be happiest running at 32khz on the Futaba/OS esc's. I have read that some motors "may" produce more heat at high PWM. Just a thought

woodie

Verne, I got my hands on one of the MC9100 controllers this weekend, along with the seperate programming box.

It also seems to have a factory default of 1.1ms - 1.8ms, or at least that was what mine was. That is the same as the Jeti default setup. The 9100 is be able to set throttle end points using the TX, a very simple process. Setting the end points process is turning on your TX, set the throttle to full, plug in the power lipos and you will get a short beep wait for the double beep in about 10 seconds, pull throttle down to 'idle' and wait for the short beep followed by 2 beeps. Unplug the power lipos and you are done.

Don

OhD

Questions... What do you get when you pull the stick to idle? Is the motor stopped or idling? Do you need to set a point (pulse width) above that to idle and a point below it to get the brake?

Jim

woodie

Jim, I did not use the brake function so can't answer your question directly. I will run some more tests tomorrow and see if I can answer. However, without the brake on, all I did was increase the pulse width above 1.1ms to get an idle.

Woodie

woodie

Quick update.... I ran some more tests this morning with the brake activated. My previous tests were with the brake not activated. First, I ran with the brake off and played with idle to see how low I could get it. Next, I turned the brake on and set it for 30%. Idle was the same as with brake off and when I lowered the trim from idle, the prop coasted to a stop. No change in idle rpm or smoothness. Next I increased the brake to 60%, repeated the previous test. Idle was the same but the prop stopped sooner. Then I turned the brake up to 100%. Idle was the same but the prop stopped immediately when I reduced the trim. So, idle capability is fine with brake on. Second, the brake function seems 'softer' than other ESCs in that it seems to need a higher % setting to see any significant change in braking energy. Also, restarting from brake on/prop stopped to an idle, required bumping the throttle up a bit then back to idle position. It was smooth restarting, or going from brake 'on' to a higher throttle setting (ie half throttle) was also smooth. So far, it is looking pretty good. All these tests were run with Acceleration set at 'normal'.

I have not flown the ESC yet but plan to the next time I go out.

Woodie

OhD

I've been flying the OS version for a couple weeks and have been very happy with it. It was easy to program and works just like it should. It does have fixed end points that are set up with the transmitter, but you only do this once. I set mine up with a nominal 1.1 msec pulse width on the low throttle end. I then set up an idle up on a switch that increases the pulse width just enough to set the desired idle rpm. So all I do is switch the idle up ON and the motor is idling. Once in the air, I switch it off and then if the stick is pulled to low the brake is applied. If I come up one click on the throttle it is idling again so the whole thing works great on landings. If you're too fast pull the stick all the way back and the plane slows. If it gets too slow you can come up to any rpm you want. Very smooth.

After the initial flights I felt the surface just a few minutes after landing and was surprised how cool it was. I finally got a data logger on it and was surprised how the temperature followed the current with some lag of course. The fact it increased with higher current was no surprise but the fact it dropped so fast as soon as the current was lowered was a surprise. The bottom line is, that in a pattern plane, you will only get about a 15 degree increase to the peak temperature over the ambient. Not bad. Makes me wonder if a big heavy heat sink is required in our application. I can see that you would need something different if you were going to pull a constant 70 Amps, but if you let it cool every few seconds and have good cooling air, you might not need a heat sink.

Jim O

Silent-AV8R

Jim, are you using the 70-amp version (O.S. OCA-170HV 70Amp 50V ESC) or the 100-amp version (O.S. OCA-1100HV 100Amp 50V ESC) ?

OhD

Bill, I think you are trying to trick me. I'm using the 100 amp version (-1100). Probably the best thing about it is the price. I think I paid about $169 at Tower with one of their deals. I read someplace that the guy who had one said that this is what he would buy in the future. I think I agree although now we'll have to look at the Jeti Mezon.

Jim O

Silent-AV8R

No tricks, just too stupid to use cut and paste on my end!! Thanks for understanding what I thought I didn't write!!

yepe

guys, hows reliability of the futaba ESC compared to Jeti and schulze. I have bad experiences with castle creations ESC, they easily got burned. Thanks

cmoulder

Yepe, it doesn't matter to me what you eventually choose as your ESC, however it would seem a good idea to find out exactly what is causing your ESC's to burn up. If something else in your system other than a defective ESC is the culprit, you may well burn up ANY brand of ESC.

Assuming all the propulsion system components - motor, prop, battery and ESC - are well matched, then I would look for problems with connectors and soldered wires and anywhere else that the separate components come together.

I have a few thousand flights with various CC controllers and have never had one burn up, but maybe I have been lucky. I am running an Advance with an Ice2 80HV and the largest amp draw shown on the data logs is 75 amps and highest ESC temperature has been 118 deg F (or maybe 114), and this was in very hot weather.

With all due respect, just my humble opinion.

Henning

I can only comment on Schulze. The pictures tell more than 1000 words. A Schulze 32.80KA started this fire at the WC 2011.

https://picasaweb.google.com/1024175...86354289844498

https://picasaweb.google.com/1024175...86388885685970


Henning

AmericanSpectre505

I was actually looking for one to use with my 14MZ and a Hacker A60-7S-V2 (Not purchased yet) or my PLETTY EVO 30-10. I guess, I will have to wait for it and the new O.S. motors to hit the USA market.


Bholsten

yepe

Bob, The first CC ESC I burned was on my EF Vanquish with Himax 210KV motor 20.5 x 14 APC prop using 2 5S 4900mah Rhinos. Customer service of CC was very good they change my ESC in 6 weeks. The 2nd ESC that I burned was on my Jetlegend Mercurio with Pletty Advance 20.5 x 14.5 Falcon V2 prop. Plane weighs 4850 grams using 2 5S 4900mah Rhinos.

Thanks

Silent-AV8R

The OS controllers that Tower stocks are identical to the Futaba labeled ESCs.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...SM&C=MJF&V=OSM

http://www.osengines.com/escs/index.html

The OS motors that are here so far are not large enough for pattern.

http://www.osengines.com/motors/index.html

Tower does stock the ones shown on the page above.

getterflash

Any life left in this thread?

I just picked up the the OS and am planning on using it with a Hacker C50-14XL Comp motor. Of course, after I purchase the controller I notice the PWM timing for the motor is fixed at 32kHz, and the Hacker calls for 8kHz. All my research suggests a PWM timing of 8kHz is pretty common and higher values are "unusual". The risk seems to be primarily a hotter running ESC. Since OS (or Futaba) has eliminated this as a user adjustable feature, they must have taken it into account when they designed the controller. On the other hand, there is a warning in the instructions that "some commercially available motors may not match the advance adjustment of the OCA-1100HV" Do they mean literally the the advance timing adjustment or is this some poorly translated text?

Jason ran a Hacker Q-80 11S with this controller at the NATS this summer. Hacker suggests 8kHz for this motor. It seems to have worked fine for him in the extreme heat at Muncie during the NATS.

OhD

I don't think you will have any trouble with the 32kHz PWM frequency. I've been running the OS for about 100 flights now and I believe it runs cooler than the Spins and the YGE. Note that the PWM has nothing to do with the timing. You will be able to set the timing at the 0 to 3 degrees required by the Hacker inrunner. This is one of the features I like about the OS and the Spins, you can set the timing in one degree increments, not low/med/high or inrunner/outrunner.

Jim O

getterflash

Thanks for the information.

cmoulder

I ordered one of these from Tower (OS version) and the programming box. What is the recommended timing for a Pletty Advance? I seem to recall reading 24 deg.

Henning

I use 24 as recommended.


Henning

cmoulder

Thank you, and thanks to everyone for the info on throttle endpoints and brake setup.

cmoulder

OK, I got in 7 or 8 flights yesterday with the ESC and am very happy with the initial results.

Brake set at 75% definitely slowed the model on downlines and when landing, which is good but will take a bit of getting used to. I will also have to adapt my approach to stall turn pivots and leave in a click of throttle, and/or adjust the brake ramp to slow perhaps. Throttle curve will need some tweaking, for sure. Immediately after a flight the unit was cool to the touch, so no stress there!

The little programming box is a must-have; I would HATE to have to set up the paramaters with the throttle stick.

All in all, a very solid unit, if somewhat bulky and heavy. Probably a v2 F3A version in the works as I type!

I just wish CC could resolve their brake/squeal situation because I have several CC units and would dearly love to be able to use the brake feature.

serious power

Hi,
For your stall turns (and spins) set up the high rate rudder switch so that it brings in a condition with a change to the throttle curve so that you have a tick over - not brake.
Or use dual rates on throttle,to do the same thing, using the same switch.

Brian

cmoulder

Thanks, Brian.

I am going to revisit the previous posts now that I have a little experience with the actual unit.