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New composit model CONTRAST

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Old 12-09-2014, 12:16 PM
  #51  
griff7166
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I have over 1500 flights on the contrast. i am currently working on a new plane that I hope that Algis will be building for me . I wanted something with a elliptical wing. there is nothing wrong with the contrast just wanted something that I designed that fits my flying style better. But know this I will probably be competing with a contrast this coming year, Algis has just been to good to me and the plane is a solid design . if you are anyone that has one are thinking of one have any questions please don't hestitate to txt or call me at 334.480.8228

thanks again

Matt
Old 12-11-2014, 01:44 PM
  #52  
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Hi,
Mine is on its way
Here tomorrow or Monday.
Looking forward to it.
br
Tom
Old 12-11-2014, 04:17 PM
  #53  
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Keep us posted, Tom. You'll have yours before I do.
Old 12-15-2014, 01:58 PM
  #54  
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Hi,
The model arrived today, very well packed in a sturdy box. There was no damage. Quality is great. The accessory pack is also very good with the closed loop wire being very strong and the linkage ends are ball-raced.The model is very light weight with the fuselage you see here weighing approximately 800 gramms. The carbon legs look very strong. I will start the assembly next week.
br
Tom
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Old 12-15-2014, 02:03 PM
  #55  
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Looks great!
Old 12-16-2014, 02:44 PM
  #56  
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Hi,

Remember to align the servo arm along the body before trying to push through the hole in the former.

I'd suggest powering up the servo at this stage to make sure the arm will centre where you want it because once the sevo is in you cannot get to the screw holding the arm on as the servos are essentially mounted upside down. You might want to consider threadlock. If your rubber servo mounts have a flange on them you probably want to turn them upside down as they servos are a snug fit.

As an aside I also bought the wing and body covers and I am very happy with the quality.

br

Tom
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Old 12-17-2014, 02:11 AM
  #57  
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Looking forward to seeing it fly Tom

Happy Christmas!

Keith
Old 12-24-2014, 11:31 AM
  #58  
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Removable Rudder/
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Old 12-24-2014, 12:25 PM
  #59  
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This give 15mm deflection @ 125% so I might need to update with a longer arm. However the setup instructions give 15mm on maximum so hopefully this will be ok.

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Old 12-24-2014, 12:30 PM
  #60  
griff7166
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I ran 10 low and 15 high that gave me plenty for the f sequence.
Old 12-24-2014, 12:31 PM
  #61  
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Here is how to get the servo lead through the holes. The 2 sullivan inners are joined with a threaded stud then manouvered though the servo lead hole (you need to cut the hole).
Attach string to hook then pull back through. Attach servo lead to string and gently pull.

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Last edited by tom.laird; 12-24-2014 at 05:11 PM.
Old 12-29-2014, 02:00 PM
  #62  
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That's the closed loop done. (I HATE closed loops!!!). The good news is that the wire is quite thick so gives a lot of confidence that it will never break.
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Old 12-29-2014, 07:26 PM
  #63  
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Love the posts as you build.
Old 12-30-2014, 02:27 AM
  #64  
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Thanks. Progress is slow due to XMAS & New Year but you could assemble this model in a couple of days. Keep the bubble wrap and cover the working surface, and keep all tools as far away as possible. Keep the foam formers to sit the fuselage in while you build. Today is to put the connectors onto the speed controller - I could have had that done before starting, then fit the motor and speed controller & decide where to put the batteries for correct balance. Almost there.
cheers
Tom
Old 12-30-2014, 01:03 PM
  #65  
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Almost there. Pictures 1,2 and 3 show different balances with the last one (level) being achieved with the batteries at the position shown in the 4th picture. I'm assuming that as with other F3a models the wings do not influence the balance. From Algirdas the balance point is in line with the end of the wing tube so i think this will be slightly nose heavy with the batteries in this position so I'll move them back 5mm. More though required.

With the batteries leads facing forward connecting up to the speed controller is going to be awkward so I think I will extend the red & black leads on the speed controller and have the battery leads facing the tail. This also needs more thought over the next 2 days.

For wheels I have used Dave Brown 3 1/4 light weight wheels as our runway is rather wet just now and small wheels dig in making the plane nose over.

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Last edited by tom.laird; 01-02-2015 at 09:50 AM.
Old 12-30-2014, 11:27 PM
  #66  
algis123
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The center of gravity must be I wrote earlier, the rear edge of the central tube, as the wings are sagittally, so the center of gravity moved back. First Flights propose a front-centered will later be adjusted by yourself.
Tom make sure you paste the rear engine support

Last edited by algis123; 12-30-2014 at 11:32 PM.
Old 12-30-2014, 11:37 PM
  #67  
Malcolm H
 
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Hi Tom,

On no account should you extend the ESC input cables unless you are prepared to add additional capacitors across the input. If not you risk frying the controller. A quick Google will throw up lots of info on this.

I have a similar problem in one of my models and get round it by connecting the battery before I snug up the battery retaining straps. Then once connected I slide the battery right forward to a reference line and tighten the straps.

Hope this helps.

Malcolm
Old 12-31-2014, 08:54 AM
  #68  
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As said, do not extend the leads and I would never fly a Q80 without a rear support. You don't need one, until you do.
Old 01-01-2015, 05:50 AM
  #69  
algis123
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I produced Tom one suport
Old 01-02-2015, 07:47 AM
  #70  
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Thanks for the inputs on extending the leads. Also, yes I have fitted the rear support as supplied.
Here is my balancer. The base sits in the car and stops the model moving during accelaration and braking so it was quite easy to add the verticals. Stiction is not an issue as the model tips forward if the canopy is removed.
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Old 01-02-2015, 09:49 AM
  #71  
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Hi,
Panic over. The batteries can be connected without extending the leads.

If you are going to mount the speed controller as I have done, I would suggest fitting the rear motor mount before glueing the speed controller mounting spar in place. It just gives you a little more room to play with.

br

Tom
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Old 01-05-2015, 08:52 PM
  #72  
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The CG is supposed to be roughly at the wing tube?
Old 01-06-2015, 02:50 AM
  #73  
algis123
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yes, CG is the center tube rear edge
Old 01-06-2015, 09:58 AM
  #74  
griff7166
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The cc on this plane ? Now that is a question that took me 300 flights to get perfect. I started with the batterys around the rear about 1 in passed the leading edge pin on the wing. And cg at the rear of the main wing tube. Then moved it toward the middle of the maim wing tube until I was on the 25 % mark of the wing tube and moved batterys forward to maintain balance. But the plan did not fly aswome until I added stab fences 95deg perpendicular to the horizontal stab. After this I flew it and several others all agreed that was the set up . My motor was a pletty advance with a jeti mezon 90 lite and g8 TP 5000 batterys. The plane with set up will fly the f and unknowns well . With any of the ama sequences very well. I hope I cleared the air some of not, you can PM me are call 334.380.8228
thanks
Matt
Old 01-06-2015, 11:56 AM
  #75  
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Using analogue bathroom scales graduated to 1kg and kitchen scales @ 25gms resolution I get this for the weight:

Fuselage, Q80, stabs, rudder, rudder servo, 2x elevator servo, JR Switch, 4.8v Enaloop, Biela carbon prop + plastic spinner: 2000gms
Undercarriage legs, wheels, bolts (pair): 225gms
Wings + servo (pair): 750gms
Canopy & canaliser: 130gms
Spin 99: 120 gms
Total: 3225 give or take.
Batteries: 2 x 540 = 1080 (Hacker 5S/5000)
New total: 4305 -ish

I then put the whole assembled model nose down on the bathroom scales and it read approx 3500 without batteries. It is really difficult with these scales but I cannot seem to find consistently good reviews about digital scales that don't cost the earth.

The basic fuselage out of the box was 800gms

cheers

Tom


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