Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Going to make a new thread with build details for those that have been asking. First off the original Prolog has been very popular and is a great flying plane but some have asked for "no pink" and a more forward canopy styling. We started doing some flight testing in the fall with a modified Prolog and found the plane to fly as well as the original Prolog which was our goal. The basic wing, stab and fin arrangement is the same from the V1 to the V2. We added the newer "less sweep" gear to the finished plane and production began in Dec. These are the factory pics of the first completed plane. The pink is gone and the plane has the forward canopy and a new color combination. The bottom f the wing is now the same as the Nuance with orange and blue and silver.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Starting on the wings, measure along the aileron 5 1/4" and make your slot for the phenolic control horn perpendicular to the aileron leading edge. There is a small tool included for making the slots the proper size. Roughen up the area to be glued then glue in the horn with epoxy or Gorilla glue. We finished off the wing with 1" Secraft servo arm, Secraft 100mm long 3mm turnbuckle and Secraft 2mm ball links that have been drilled out slightly to accommodate the 3mm turnbuckles. A 12" extension and the wing is done with a ready to fly weight of 13.6oz each panel

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

The stabs and elevators are installed next. Install your servos and mark the location of the servo output shaft, then center the included pushrod exit guide on the mark and cut the slot for the servo arm into the stab bottom. The slots for the control horns are 1 3/16" from the end of the elevator. Secraft 24mm servo arms, 70mm turnbuckles and 2mm ball links finish the stabs. The stabs are installed on 2 - 8mm tubes and slide right into position and are secured with 2 small screws per side. A 36" extension is needed for each servo. We did change the factory tailwheel assy out for an MK assembly - as a matter of preference only.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Motor installation is going to vary depending on your choice of motor. We used a Plettenberg Advance 30-10 in the company plane. The F3A unlimited front mount can be used in the narrow front but the ears need to be ground down and new holes drilled and tapped instead of using locknuts and bolts as in a typical installation. We have used this modified mount for hundreds of flights on several different planes and it works great and holds well with just the tapped holes. To get the proper spacing from the nose to the spinner, a ply "donut" is made to set the motor back slightly. A 1/4" donut is just about right to get the proper spacing with the spinner. The rear of the motor mounts with the f3A Unlimited rear bracket and small tabs glued to the fuselage sides.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

We decided to add some bracing to the canopy since this is a company demo plane and we usually have lots of people flying it and taking the canopy off/on. Added a small mounting pad for the ESC up front. We will be using the new Jeti Mezon 95HV OPTO in this plane. There is a small radio tray for the receiver and rx battery and regulator. There is also a small ply mount for the receiver switch and charging jack that we made. The servo leads go to the tail inside Gator R/C lightweight servo lead tubes.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Forgot to show the cooling hole detail. The plane comes with a template for the cooling holes, you can use it or go your own direction. A Dremel and a couple sanding tools made from a tongue depressor and a section of scrap stab tube socket both with adhesive sandpaper attached make for an easy job.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Mounting the rudder servo in the tail was done with a Secraft med servo mount vs the factory method of using ply brackets and a zip tie. The Secraft method is heavier and obviously more expensive than the factory method. We used Secraft 2mm ball links and a custom made carbon pushrod as we were temporarily out of stock on the proper 120mm Secraft turnbuckle required. We will replace this with the turnbuckle later. A 1in Secraft servo arm and 36" extension and the rudder servo installation is complete.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Another note on cooling, never, never, never, never just open up the front and rear exits and expect to have proper cooling. The air enters the nose below the motor and then flows under the gear plate and out the back providing a cooling benefit of zero. You must redirect that air to make it cool your batteries and the simplest way is to add a simple balsa or depron "ramp" to send the air up into and around the motor batteries. The air must pass through and around the batteries now on it's way to the exit. Simple and adds virtually no weight. This is the absolute minimum you should do, adding some other baffles etc will help as well.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Next issue is to mount the battery tray. It is very important that you wait to do this until everything else on the plane is completed and a spinner and prop are installed. The best starting C/G is 11.25" from the REAR of the canopy rail measuring fwd. This is about 285mm and also happens to put you over the wing tube to the center/fwd half. Take the battery tray and strap a battery pack to it and move fwd/aft until you have the proper C/G. The pic here is not straight down so it looks off but just put the C/G over the tube. We modified the tray slightly by using an 8mm cf tube and ply donuts in the front as the included ply part for the front assumes a different location for the tray. We slightly modified the top of the gear plate so as to glue the battery tray to the gear plate as well as using the front and rear supports.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

A note about the included wing adjusters, we strongly suggest you build the plane stock with the solid C/F tube through the back of the fuse and the shorter C/F pins in front on the wings for a fixed incidence. Improperly set wing adjusters have ruined the flying qualities of many planes when a properly specified fixed wing incidence is all you needed. Please don't add the adjusters because you think it might need them or because "the big guys" all use adjusters. IF later on you want to add them, the plane can be easily modified to accept them but again the plane flys great with the factory set incidence.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Will add some more detail pics later but the plane ready to fly without motor batteries is 7lbs 15oz (3.6kg) and includes the Tru-Turn turbo cool spinner and a standard weight Falcon prop (not the 40g V2). With motor batteries, we are looking at about 10.5lbs ready for a flight. The newer "less sweep" gear moves the wheels about 2" forward from the older style gear and will make ground handling even easier.

mups53

My Feedback: (41)

Nice thread Chris!

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

Any chance at an ARC version for those of us who don't like the technicolor blender schemes that are common today?

svrcp

My Feedback: (1)

Chris this was a very good detail for this plane. As Chris stated about the wing adjuster, When I built the first one last I didn't put any adjuster, and everyone that flew the Then Company plane was very happy with it. Built it stock and it should be fine. My plane came in around 4790 grams with Pletty 30-10. This is a very good plane , I cann't wait to get another one . Chris lets get it in the air soon.

Jr

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Yes! there are a few ARCs coming in the shipment along with the ARFs. The ship is due into port at the end of Feb so right now estimating first week of Mar before we will be shipping out individual orders. There are also a few Prolog V1 ARFs coming as well.

david hancock

Excellent info Chris. This is exactly what someone who has not built an F3A plane needs to see.

AmericanSpectre505

I certainly like the plane much better in the new configuration/colors. Like my opinion matters,..LOL.

Nice build thread Chris, the thread answers some of the basic build/hardware questions. My question is: Are the two silver wood screws in the front permanent, or are they there to hold the wooden motor ring in place for the initial motor alignment? I noticed on the Nuance thread that most people indicated they installed wing adjusters, but its not necessary on the Prolog-V2? I think it's great, if you don't have to deal with the aggravation of tweaking incidence adjusters.


I really wish, I could have stopped by the Green Sea contest at the end of the year in 2012. JR had me set up to fly the Nuance, Prolog and the Griffin, so I could really get a good feel for the airframe I got the best feel for. Perhaps, when you’re not busy on a weekend, I could drive up and fly a few before the contest season starts? However, if someone would like to interject and make up mind that would be great also. I am very happy with what I have to fly, but I would like an airframe designed for Electric with less drag than what I have.

On another note; I will be attending the NATS this year and don't want to bring a knife to a gun fight.

Bholsten

ironman597

My Feedback: (10)

Love the new colors.  I know Brandon loves his and says it is the best flying plane yet. Hope to see some of these new ones at contests or at the flying fields.

ironman597

My Feedback: (10)

Just wanted to clarify. Brandon has original version V1 and also has forward canopy on his also.

Chris Moon

My Feedback: (8)

Control setup for first flights:

Ailerons 12 degrees
Elevators 12 degrees
Rudder 35 degrees

Expo of 30% on all

These starting settings have worked on every single 2M plane I have ever flown, you can tweak from there but you will have a successful first flight with these settings.

The Prolog, Nuance and Episode all come with an elevator neutral jig for setting them up since there is no tip on the end to help align neutral. Slide the jig on the stab and elevator as far as it will go and adjust the linkage for neutral. Simple and accurate.

AmericanSpectre505

Those are the same values I have used and it worked on all my prior 2M stuff too.

Great idea on the centering tool,.....[8D]

Bill

svrcp

My Feedback: (1)

The good thing about these post that Chris is putting out on the Prolog it's all this infromation can be use on the Naunce also. The Prolog goes together very simple.
Bill your'e correct on those two screw ,we expoxy the wooden block in but screw the front motor ring with them.


Jr

AmericanSpectre505

Jr,

I figured that, because I would have done the same to keep it in place. I would probably fill the screw hole with a dowel pin just for a piece of mind, but that's me.

bill

AmericanSpectre505

Is anyone out there fly the FAI/F3A P and F programs with one yet? I would like to hear some feed back on the Prolog V2 in comparison to the stock Nuance (No DTFS wings).

Thanks,

Bill

svrcp

My Feedback: (1)

Bill that would work too, but just a little more work. Just the same it's going into 1/4 to 3/8 plywood spacer. Take a drive up my way and you can fly it. Right now I'm working on a Naunce for my slef, ups go to go cut out air vents.

Jr