2M Monolog Build
#76

I think I posted this already... of the two 5S 5000batteries in the plane I put back in 5100mA in one and 5150mA in the other... Not much juice left in those bad boys...
They were not hot when I pulled them out andthey initially read 3.47v and 3.43v respectively. They recharged fully and didn't puff on me...
Note to Self... "Set the dang timer..." -Note taken-
They were not hot when I pulled them out andthey initially read 3.47v and 3.43v respectively. They recharged fully and didn't puff on me...
Note to Self... "Set the dang timer..." -Note taken-

#77

Getting back to finishing the build...
I left off with the UPS truck coming with my soldering sttion. I didn't take pics of my solder job, but soldering is great with good solder equipment....
Here is the pic with the ESCconnected via 4mm bullets, and the heat shrinked over the connections,to the Motor and a Deans connector soldered on the battery connection end.
Notice that the black and white wires appear to be reversed.I had to change them so the motor turned the correct way. I don't know if the ESC could be programmed to reverse the rotation, but this seemed to be the easiest way.
I left off with the UPS truck coming with my soldering sttion. I didn't take pics of my solder job, but soldering is great with good solder equipment....
Here is the pic with the ESCconnected via 4mm bullets, and the heat shrinked over the connections,to the Motor and a Deans connector soldered on the battery connection end.
Notice that the black and white wires appear to be reversed.I had to change them so the motor turned the correct way. I don't know if the ESC could be programmed to reverse the rotation, but this seemed to be the easiest way.
#79

Approaching final stages. So I weighed everything except the Rx Batteries (92grams) and velcro. With the added glue I ended up at a total ready to fly weight of 5,017 grams. I'm using dual reduntant Rx batteries.
Hre is a picture on the scale...
Hre is a picture on the scale...
#80

Here is a front picture of the Battery Tray and Receiver/Switch Tray... Again, using 30 minute epoxy. I velcro'd the Rx in place. The Rx is an Airtronics 10ch FHSS-3 for the SD-10G. It has slots for two receiver packs which make this setup very easy. The switch is the Power Box Sensor from Aircraft International...
http://www.aircraftinternational.com...r_12/index.htm
Here are the pics...
Note on the Battery Tray is only showing the front of it. I changed phones and in the process the ATT Rep formatted my SD card for the new phone despite saying I wanted to make sure I save all the pics with the phone...LOL
The Main Battery tray was mounted as stated in the instructions. The rear part is glued in so it is resting on the brace and the former at the wing tube. I will bring up the damage in the next part of this thread on how I repaired the block.
I'm just a novice at this, so feel free to tell me I'm not making a good decision. RVP did and probably saved me from doing a second repair...
I forgot to mention the Armsafe switch. I had to reconfigure a Castle 2 into 1 battery harness for using two 5s packs. I removed a male T-Connector and soldered in another Female. I used a modified 2 into 1 T-Connector (I had to take it apart and put a gap between the two connectors) to connect the batteries to the Armsafe Harness.
http://www.aircraftinternational.com...r_12/index.htm
Here are the pics...
Note on the Battery Tray is only showing the front of it. I changed phones and in the process the ATT Rep formatted my SD card for the new phone despite saying I wanted to make sure I save all the pics with the phone...LOL
The Main Battery tray was mounted as stated in the instructions. The rear part is glued in so it is resting on the brace and the former at the wing tube. I will bring up the damage in the next part of this thread on how I repaired the block.
I'm just a novice at this, so feel free to tell me I'm not making a good decision. RVP did and probably saved me from doing a second repair...
I forgot to mention the Armsafe switch. I had to reconfigure a Castle 2 into 1 battery harness for using two 5s packs. I removed a male T-Connector and soldered in another Female. I used a modified 2 into 1 T-Connector (I had to take it apart and put a gap between the two connectors) to connect the batteries to the Armsafe Harness.
#81

The last steps for me where to cut the cooling inlet and exhaust. I used a dremel on the cowl. I put painters tape on the cowl and penciled in the shape I wanted then opened up using a dremel.
For the exhaust cutout I used the template supplied in the kit. I taped in place using painters tape and once I was happy with the location I used a sharp exacto knife #11 blade to rough cut it out. Then I used a dremel with a small sanding drum to finish while the template was still in place to prevent me from taking too much material.
For the exhaust cutout I used the template supplied in the kit. I taped in place using painters tape and once I was happy with the location I used a sharp exacto knife #11 blade to rough cut it out. Then I used a dremel with a small sanding drum to finish while the template was still in place to prevent me from taking too much material.
#83

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I love it! Thanks for all your hard work on this build thread. It really helps us at F3AUnlimited to refer our customers. It saves us a lot of calls and emails and I learn a lot from everyones different building tecniques.
Great stuff Larry now learn how to be competitive with it! Mike
Great stuff Larry now learn how to be competitive with it! Mike
#84

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Just curious, does anyone know what type/brand of covering BJ Craft uses? I've always been a MonoKote user and noticed that BJ Craft film has a white backing.
Last edited by Kevin Duncan; 08-06-2013 at 07:34 PM.
#85
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Its called 'Toughlon" and is available from any World Models stockist normally.
http://www.theworldmodels.us/shoppin...egory=Toughlon
http://www.theworldmodels.us/shoppin...egory=Toughlon
Last edited by Andy P.; 08-07-2013 at 10:10 AM.
#89

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Maybe the covering is the stuff that Hobby King sells.
FWIW the ML 2 Meter sales have really started to take off. Much of it due to the great PR you have done on this thread. We have a number of them flying around the Midwest. It really is a sweet ride and a great value. We are currently sold out but will have more coming in the early fall.
We just built one for Brandon's uncle Dave and we are running the Hacker A60 7S. It's a 28 pole motor and requires a Jeti controller. It has gobs of power and it's selling for $215
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/webstore...roducts_id=629
For anyone looking for a motor option it seems like the Himax 6330 210 and this are a really great match. Mike
FWIW the ML 2 Meter sales have really started to take off. Much of it due to the great PR you have done on this thread. We have a number of them flying around the Midwest. It really is a sweet ride and a great value. We are currently sold out but will have more coming in the early fall.
We just built one for Brandon's uncle Dave and we are running the Hacker A60 7S. It's a 28 pole motor and requires a Jeti controller. It has gobs of power and it's selling for $215
http://www.f3aunlimited.com/webstore...roducts_id=629
For anyone looking for a motor option it seems like the Himax 6330 210 and this are a really great match. Mike
#90

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Mike,
Thanks for the info. Mine should be airborne in the next week or two. I have a few last little things to do on it and she'll be all set. Just curious, did the one you just build have the white fuselage side covering or the silver? If you remember, mine came with silver, which was completely unexpected, but a pleasant surprise.
I'll post some pics when it's all done.
Kevin
Thanks for the info. Mine should be airborne in the next week or two. I have a few last little things to do on it and she'll be all set. Just curious, did the one you just build have the white fuselage side covering or the silver? If you remember, mine came with silver, which was completely unexpected, but a pleasant surprise.
I'll post some pics when it's all done.
Kevin
#91

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Hey Kevin that was a head scratcher for sure.
It's silver just like yours. I think universally it's well liked too. Yes it looks great too. I really genuinely like the ML 2M. I wish we had more in stock because its kind of a hot item.
It's really hard for Chris and I to know what will sell and what's going to sit. Seems we are often wrong. Mike
It's silver just like yours. I think universally it's well liked too. Yes it looks great too. I really genuinely like the ML 2M. I wish we had more in stock because its kind of a hot item.
It's really hard for Chris and I to know what will sell and what's going to sit. Seems we are often wrong. Mike
#92
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Motor thrust question-- I am about ready to pull the pin on my next project -- ML 70 /electric /5S setup. I understand and have reviewed the docs from BJC on the 70 and 110 since they are
so much the same from a build standpoint. My only lingering major question is whether or not the PROPER design thrust is built into the electric mount--the pics in the bjcdocs refer to a 1.2mm "move" to increase the thrust to 3 degs from the framed 2 degs???
To me this is such a critical part of the design that I do not want to get into unkown territory wrt the design motor thrust.
So if you guys could respond from your flight experience -- and how the build went in that area. I am obviously hoping that the answer is "just glue on the front motor mounts, mount the motor with blind nuts, beef up to your heart's content and have at it!".
so much the same from a build standpoint. My only lingering major question is whether or not the PROPER design thrust is built into the electric mount--the pics in the bjcdocs refer to a 1.2mm "move" to increase the thrust to 3 degs from the framed 2 degs???
To me this is such a critical part of the design that I do not want to get into unkown territory wrt the design motor thrust.
So if you guys could respond from your flight experience -- and how the build went in that area. I am obviously hoping that the answer is "just glue on the front motor mounts, mount the motor with blind nuts, beef up to your heart's content and have at it!".
#93

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Motor thrust question-- I am about ready to pull the pin on my next project -- ML 70 /electric /5S setup. I understand and have reviewed the docs from BJC on the 70 and 110 since they are
so much the same from a build standpoint. My only lingering major question is whether or not the PROPER design thrust is built into the electric mount--the pics in the bjcdocs refer to a 1.2mm "move" to increase the thrust to 3 degs from the framed 2 degs???
To me this is such a critical part of the design that I do not want to get into unkown territory wrt the design motor thrust.
So if you guys could respond from your flight experience -- and how the build went in that area. I am obviously hoping that the answer is "just glue on the front motor mounts, mount the motor with blind nuts, beef up to your heart's content and have at it!".
so much the same from a build standpoint. My only lingering major question is whether or not the PROPER design thrust is built into the electric mount--the pics in the bjcdocs refer to a 1.2mm "move" to increase the thrust to 3 degs from the framed 2 degs???
To me this is such a critical part of the design that I do not want to get into unkown territory wrt the design motor thrust.
So if you guys could respond from your flight experience -- and how the build went in that area. I am obviously hoping that the answer is "just glue on the front motor mounts, mount the motor with blind nuts, beef up to your heart's content and have at it!".
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...hlight=monolog
or
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/elec...og-70-50e.html
#94

I had the best practice flight yesterday which made me feel like I could actually fly the Intermediate Sequence with justice... ;-)
Nobody was at the field when I got there. After getting the plane set up, an older gentleman drove up to pick up an umbrella he forgot.
He saw my 2M Monolog and had a big grin on his face. He had never seen a Pattern Plane let alone see one fly. He said he was willing to stick around and watch if I was going to.
With a big smile on my face at this point, I asked for his assistance. I explained I needed somebody to call for me because I don't have the sequence memorized. He was initially nervous and quickly calmed down when I explained how he could call for me and what he needed to do, and if he messed up it was no problem and no worries.
Needless to say he was amazed watching the Monolog fly. I was amazed as I was thinking this is the flight that should be judged at a contest as it might be awhile before I repeat it. I flew slower to help give him time and for me some practice on a slower flight. Bang, it helped. He did a great job calling !!!!!
I finally landed and thanked him for his assistance and looking forward to meeting up with him again this weekend at the field.
He left and I set to pack the plane up. I took off the Canopy and removed the batteries. One by one I removed the wings next, placing each one in it's appropriate wing bag. What a great day !!!!!
Then I was overwhelmed with an adrenaline rush... What just happened...? What did I do...? OMG, I didn't just do that...!!!!!!!
I suddenly realized I didn't remove the rubber-bands that held the 2M Monolog wings on... Why you ask? Because I never put them on before the flight... I flew it with out the wings being secured.
Note to self... "Make some kind of "Remove Before Flight" red ribbon flag to remind me to put the rubber-bands on the wing restraints..?
Larry Diamond
NSRCA 3083
AMA 5024
Nobody was at the field when I got there. After getting the plane set up, an older gentleman drove up to pick up an umbrella he forgot.
He saw my 2M Monolog and had a big grin on his face. He had never seen a Pattern Plane let alone see one fly. He said he was willing to stick around and watch if I was going to.
With a big smile on my face at this point, I asked for his assistance. I explained I needed somebody to call for me because I don't have the sequence memorized. He was initially nervous and quickly calmed down when I explained how he could call for me and what he needed to do, and if he messed up it was no problem and no worries.
Needless to say he was amazed watching the Monolog fly. I was amazed as I was thinking this is the flight that should be judged at a contest as it might be awhile before I repeat it. I flew slower to help give him time and for me some practice on a slower flight. Bang, it helped. He did a great job calling !!!!!
I finally landed and thanked him for his assistance and looking forward to meeting up with him again this weekend at the field.
He left and I set to pack the plane up. I took off the Canopy and removed the batteries. One by one I removed the wings next, placing each one in it's appropriate wing bag. What a great day !!!!!
Then I was overwhelmed with an adrenaline rush... What just happened...? What did I do...? OMG, I didn't just do that...!!!!!!!
I suddenly realized I didn't remove the rubber-bands that held the 2M Monolog wings on... Why you ask? Because I never put them on before the flight... I flew it with out the wings being secured.
Note to self... "Make some kind of "Remove Before Flight" red ribbon flag to remind me to put the rubber-bands on the wing restraints..?
Larry Diamond
NSRCA 3083
AMA 5024
#96

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Whoa!!!! Larry, if I remember early on in this thread, you were concerned about how tight the wing tube was. Bet you're glad it is a TIGHT fit!!!!!
Congrats on your good flight, and may it be repeated again (with rubber bands next time).
Thanks for sharing, as you now have me thinking about placing some sort of reminder in there as well.
Kevin
Congrats on your good flight, and may it be repeated again (with rubber bands next time).
Thanks for sharing, as you now have me thinking about placing some sort of reminder in there as well.
Kevin
#97

Arch and Kevin...That was one of the first things I thought about...!!!!! I only took enough off the wing tube to make a snug fit... Saved the 2M Monolog on this flight... By the way.... Getting ready to post the LG repair. Can't tell a repair was ever made looking at it...
Hmmm, there is a pattern here... Tight is a good thing... We need to leave that alone for now.... Just Sayin...
LD
Hmmm, there is a pattern here... Tight is a good thing... We need to leave that alone for now.... Just Sayin...

LD
Last edited by DRC1; 08-29-2013 at 07:01 AM.
#98

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For what it's worth, I don't use rubber bands on mine. I went to the local ACE Hardware and bought a rubber O-ring (I think 2.5" diameter, but will check later at home). Just one and it is much beefier than rubber bands. It has enough stretch in it to wrap around the hooks, but beyond that, it doesn't expand. A gentleman at the NATS had a Monolog too and showed me that method. Seems to be working just fine.
Kevin
Kevin
#99

For what it's worth, I don't use rubber bands on mine. I went to the local ACE Hardware and bought a rubber O-ring (I think 2.5" diameter, but will check later at home). Just one and it is much beefier than rubber bands. It has enough stretch in it to wrap around the hooks, but beyond that, it doesn't expand. A gentleman at the NATS had a Monolog too and showed me that method. Seems to be working just fine.
Kevin
Kevin
I think I'm going to try a method that was used on a Panzerfaust I got from Tim Pascoe around 2001 (I still have it) ... Quick, easy, and secure. Basically using a ball joint quick release linkage.
I'll post a picture when I get that done... Should be pretty easy to do, just haven't made the time... After yesterday... I think I will make some time now... LOL
LD