Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Guys - rookie question ahead - beware -
I've been using Velcro straps around the battery and the "tray" that I built in, so I could use different lengths of batteries, and different widths/heights....stupid question is this - is there something "better" (more pattern-ish) and "trick" than just plain ol' Velcro strap??? Any methods and ideas welcome, please.... 6S or larger batteries is what I'm using.

Doug Cronkhite

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Velcro is simple and light. This seems like one of those things that isn't broke and doesn't require fixing.

JAS

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You can always use some colored Velcro

http://veltye.com/inc/sdetail/137/156

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Jason - if you remember, I *always* go for the MacGyver fix even to things that aren't problems, because I am fundamentally driven by laziness. :0

AND - Congratulations on your outstanding performance at the Worlds....well-deserved recognition....

I had this vision of someone using some trick method for smaller fuselages like my Monolog 70 when dealing with short fat hands and fatter fingers.

Portlandflyer

These are the best straps I have found by far...

http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-22...sh-Pack/Detail

You want the Extra Large for two 5S packs

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Thanks.... the mediums work on my 6S...that's what I have now....

rmh

We have a Marshalls hardware store which carries genuine Velcro in 1", 2" and 4" widths , in bulk.
For the big n heavy batts we use a strip on the tray and underside of th e pack then the good old double sided 1" Velcro around the tray and the pack- in two places
WalMart carries a good selection in their hardware dept-- assortment of fasteners including thin straps on a roll - good for the smaller stuff
The heavy straps keep the electrons from leaking out as rapidly as when using thin straps

Bob Pastorello

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Thanks, Dick...I thought the thermal porosity coefficient of Velcro was too high to overcome the EMR leakage....my electrons seem to leak whether Velcro-wrapped or stored in aluminum-foil lined containers.

Zeeb

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Oh hell, it's getting deep now.... lol

Yeah the Marshall's here in SLC is where lots of velcro comes from and works on the trays and batteries like Dick suggested, but I'm all for color like Jason however I prefer the red straps from Home Depot....

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

You guys have FAT fuselages....I've NEVER seen a pattern airplane as wide as Jason't picture....ever.... My Monolog 70 is only about 1" wider at the center of the 6S than the battery itself, which makes for my thread here...

MTK

I don't fly big E so take what I'm about to say with a skinny grain of salt: I've seen two planes jettison their velcro "secured:" packs. I'd suggest caution and changing the velcro every so often because it does wear out. That's for the larger heavier bats only of course

It may be that Dave's screwed on plate solution is a little better long term; less fussy and easier to work into a skinnier fuses. And of course, the hold is the same today as next year.....

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Matt, tell me more - I don no nuthin bout no plate....

wildnloose

Hey Bob,

I was going to suggest the same thing. I have a pic on my phone, PM me your email addr. and I will send your way.

Most of the E pattern guys that came to compete in Tulsa use this method. Basically they install a long bolt (usually all thread, long enough to clear the batteries) in the middle of the base plate (the base plate has velcro on it, same as batteries). Then they make a top piece out of lite ply (same width as the battery packs, lengths range "2-4") to secure the batteries. They fabricate a nut piece out of lite ply (circumference equal to top ply piece) to make it easier to screw on/take off.

They use a spacer between the packs to allow clearance for the all thread.

So you have velcro and a screwed down plate to secure your batteries.

You probably don't remember me, but I met you at the Tulsa pattern meet one year. You helped me a lot that day. Good to see you are back in the mix again.

kochj

You have to get your facts stait!
Swiss inventor George de Mestral created the original hook and loop fasteners.
Velcro is the Brand of hook-n-loop fasteners....
All others are copies!.....
I wonder when DLE will start making Velcro??
just sayn.... I mean Daa..... geeze....

Seriously though, I have wondered if there is a better way to sucure bats, and recievers, regulators... in skinny fuses....
EX. GP .60 reactor bipe....

MTK

Wild and Loose has the basic design down. The threaded stud is a 4" screw, and i think Dave uses a 6-32 for this. It is threaded through the base plate's middle so that the two packs stradle the threaded stud.

The base plate has small patches of velcro on it corresponding to the opposite velcro on eack pack, such that the packs are located and are not allowed to shift in flight. The top plate is a lightened ply circle ring (maybe 3/32" a/c type? not sure) with a blind nut in the middle. The lightening holes make convenient finger holds. If I remember right he uses a small patch of rubber foam next to the packs before spinning the plate down onto the packs. This isn't so much for vibes but just frictional hold of the plate to keep it from spinning off in flight.

I think velcro has a role here too except it isn't the critical role. I don't know who originated it, but its is simple and secure. Is it better? Who knows! "Better" means different things to different folks.

My solution if I were to fly Big-E would be something similar. But I doubt that will ever happen.

Hell, just last night talking with Bryan, he has about convinced me to get a YS200 4 cycle when it comes out. In his opinion the 185 was a great leap forward over the 175, and he expects the 200 to be just as big a leap fore over the 185. Except, I gotta believe that case is getting mighty thin.....LOL

kochj

I tried this....one side was glued.... got tired of waiting for glue, worried it wouldn't hold, and chose to rivit the ends closed...
will not be doing it this way in the future....worried the rivets would rub or cut batteries over time?
And that little wooded slot....not much there...better off taking the velcro and loop around the entire wodden tray.

Jason Arnold

This is my battery tray/ESC/SPS set-up. Still uses the velcro strap though.

Cheers,
Jason.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Sweet. Such clean setups on the 2M birds....very nicely done.

______________________

I'm finishing up my work in progress, which is basically sort of a tongue-in-groove plywood plate. Rear plugs into "tongue"; Front anchors to blind nut in ply crosspiece w/ 3mm screw. If it works, I'll do a pic or two. You all gave me various items to think about....then I remembered my "removable tray" system in a Sampson bipe that needed the battery way forward, forcing me to design a tray that could be installed with battery already on it, then anchored. It worked.

CafeenMan

What's wrong with velcro exactly? I suppose you could design some lightweight anodized aluminum honeycomb with a sliding dovetail on bearings hooked to a worm-screw so you can adjust the CG in flight by moving the battery.

Velcro is better though. Simpler and lighter.

nonstoprc

My Feedback: (90)

I use Velcro exclusively for receiver, RX battery and power battery pack. For extra security, I apply two straps though for the power pack.

One thing we need to pay attention is the hooks and loops on any such straps can wear out. I usually replace these fasteners every two seasons.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

Okay - my MacGyver-ing is Complete - thanks for the ideas and input. Helped me to remember some stuff. So, here's what I did. Basically built a tray out of lite ply, laminated CF lengthwise strips to bottom (really stiffened things up). Rear of tray plugs into "groove" just in front of wing tube, Battery is strapped to tray with plain ol' Velcro - nothin' fancy - battery has my "non skid" stuff from the RV store glued to the bottom of it to stop any sliding. I do this to all my batteries, weighs almost nothing, and stays put with very thin coat of E6000 or ShooGoo on the bumps. The Battery/Tray is inserted into the "groove", then the front is secured with a 3mm screw with neoprene washer to stop it from backing out.

Seems like it ought to work...but who knows. Pics are in sequence, I hope.

CafeenMan

Looks very good. I have to admit that I'm kind of disappointed you didn't use my idea for a worm-gear driven CG-adjusting battery tray but I guess your idea will work too.

Bob Pastorello

My Feedback: (198)

If I had a lathe, there are likely incredible, useless devices I would have fabricated through the years. I seem to recall many moons ago, someone DID have sliding weights in the fuse that were servo operated....I think maybe Wolfgang Matt ???
Anywho - I definitely like the aluminum plate, but it was far too "high tech" for my Rube solutions....

rmh

I think that was just a theory(?) by some
actually placing the CG at 33% enabled the maneuvers he was doing - Knife edged spins etc.,
I experimented at the time to see what was really necessary - lots of throw and a CG at about 33%

MTK

Oh, for a smaller single brick.....makes sense. Probably a good idea not to stick a screw through the brick....LiPo's have no sense of humor......LOL