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Caelus New F3A design by Top RC Model

Old 02-25-2016, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Dsnow
I use 6-32 blind nuts and cap screws and the mount will center between the openings in the blue X-ring, you do not need anything larger than 6-32's, give it a try.

Dave Snow
Yeah, that's what I'm using but I have to slot the holes in the ply mount to match the blue mount on the motor.

Last edited by Zippi; 02-26-2016 at 03:44 AM.
Old 02-26-2016, 03:46 PM
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Ok guys I have a question. Look at the pic and tell me what goes into the area with the red circle??? I have the small CF tube in the front of the wing, the plastic thumb screw in the middle of the wing, and I have nothing to screw into the back section of the wing. I'm assuming another plastic thumb screw goes in each side that I did not get. Time to drag out the junk box for a set of thumb screws.
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Last edited by Zippi; 02-26-2016 at 04:18 PM.
Old 02-26-2016, 04:48 PM
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Should have been 4. Mike will hook ya up.
Old 02-26-2016, 06:26 PM
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Also, you should have 2 plywood rings/washers for the back wing screws. After you get the incidence set you should lightly CA them to hold in place.
Old 02-27-2016, 03:42 AM
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Thanks guys. Maybe I'm missing more than I thought. I'll shoot mike an email.
Old 02-28-2016, 08:28 AM
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Yeah there are 4 of them
Old 02-28-2016, 08:41 AM
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I see they left some of the carbon fiber reinforcement out around the landing gear and nose area
Old 02-28-2016, 11:20 AM
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Made a little progress today. The way I held the motor in place to epoxy the ply mount in and give me a 1/16" gap between the spinner back plate and cowl may be a little unorthodox but it seem to work fine. That was a bungee cord I found in the parking lot at work. The Falcon spinner was suppose to fit the falcon 3 blade prop without any cutting but in reality I had to cut a little off the spinner to keep it from hitting the prop. The wheel pants were a no brainier but the "C" clip was a pain in the back side. Just need to pull the motor and epoxy the front side of the ply motor mount. Looking good so far.
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Last edited by Zippi; 02-28-2016 at 11:22 AM.
Old 02-28-2016, 11:30 AM
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What size 3 blade are you using
Old 02-28-2016, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by jetmech43
What size 3 blade are you using
Falcon 20X12.5
Old 02-28-2016, 11:42 AM
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Don't for get to cut he cooling holes in the front
Old 02-28-2016, 11:47 AM
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Yeah, I'll get there. This was just the first day to work on the Caelus. Still have a lot to do.
Old 02-28-2016, 11:50 AM
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Where are you guys mounting the ESC?
Old 02-28-2016, 01:09 PM
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I mounted mine under the batter tray under the front
Old 02-28-2016, 01:30 PM
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Here's how Dave Snow mounted mine.
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Old 02-28-2016, 02:42 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. I kinda like the way Dave Snow did it. This way there are not bolts heads or zip ties sticking up that the battery's have to lay on. All the pics I've seen of this plane they had nice turn buckle rods for the linkage. I have a pack of these .078" rods that IMO are way to small. Maybe I'm to use to giant scale gassers. They have the famous rolled threads that come from on the other side of the pond which means almost no threads at all. Looks like I'm going to have to purchase something of a little better quality than what I'm looking at. Any of you guys using these small rods?
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:45 PM
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Originally Posted by kdunlap
Here's how Dave Snow mounted mine.
I am no expert here. Just a couple of questions and thoughts...

The way the batteries and ESC are mounted, I would think the significant concern is to make certain cooling airflow around these two components is sufficient.

It's hard to tell in the pics the way Dave Snow has the ESC installed. It looks like it is vertical in front of the bottom area of the battery tray and doesn't completely block air from under the battery tray. Perhaps, the result is that there is a bit of turbulent airflow under the battery tray for improved cooling and the ESC is seeing fresh air directly on the heat sink.

I would be interested to see the inlet air vents and the exhaust air vents of your plane. Did Dave do any baffling to control airflow in the fuse, or does the inlet/exhaust venting holes provide a good flow of air?

Larry Diamond

Last edited by DRC1; 03-01-2016 at 05:48 PM.
Old 03-01-2016, 06:04 PM
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Larry,
This airplane has no cooling problems whatsoever. I have flown in 90+ degree air and there is more than enough cooling using the standard vents without baffling. The ESC is mounted vertically to the front of the battery tray. Gets a lot of air. Has only been warm to the touch and only mildly so. Also, the ESC does not block any airflow under the batteries. Frankly, of all the concerns I have had about the airplane, cooling is not one of them.
Ken
Old 03-01-2016, 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kdunlap
Larry,
This airplane has no cooling problems whatsoever. I have flown in 90+ degree air and there is more than enough cooling using the standard vents without baffling. The ESC is mounted vertically to the front of the battery tray. Gets a lot of air. Has only been warm to the touch and only mildly so. Also, the ESC does not block any airflow under the batteries. Frankly, of all the concerns I have had about the airplane, cooling is not one of them.
Ken
Thanks for the quick response... Sounds good...
Old 03-02-2016, 03:50 AM
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I worked on getting the control horns epoxied in last night. For the ailerons, stabs, & rudder it looks like the slots for the control horns were cut in random locations without using a jig. It took some work to get things were they need to be.
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Old 03-02-2016, 04:50 AM
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Does everyone else's canalyzer need two or three sixteenth of an inch shim at the front to raise the incidence up to be at even to slightly positive incidence with respect to the motor and stab? Mine fit horribly stock.

Send some one pics of your final tcan fit and how you secured it laterally to make it solid with the fuse without adding too much weight for the job in the process. I just propped up the leading edge with a Popsicle stick shim for the first flight but need to make a better and laterally stiffer final cradle to secure it with, I think.

I'd like to get others thoughts on their final Tcan adjustments, etc.
Old 03-02-2016, 05:00 AM
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Mine needed to be shimmed as well. There are a couple of wedges of balsa to do the job. What I found helped a lot is to take wing saddle squishy foam tape and use it as a cushion between the T-can and the airframe. It is stout enough where you can screw the T-can down pretty good. It actual adds more surface area for the T-can to rest against and that adds a bit of strength to the assembly.The other thing I thought about doing was going to the hardware store to get some rubber washers.. or servo grommets to screw the T-can against. That was option two for me. Had to do all of this because I accidentally broke off the shims Dave S. made for me when I was playing with the T-can incidence...

Last edited by kdunlap; 03-02-2016 at 05:02 AM.
Old 03-02-2016, 05:01 AM
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Zippi -sorry to see that....
Old 03-02-2016, 09:53 AM
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I haven't gotten to the canalyzer yet but now I have some idea's to use. Has anyone got a pic with dimensions on just where to cut the slots in the rear of the fuse for the rudder cables to exit?
Old 03-02-2016, 10:02 AM
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Lots of great info on this page

http://suddenlink.net/donramsey/

Just did this but I crossed the cables to move the exit point back. Aligned everything horizontally as described in the link. Then mounted a cable on the rudder and held it above the servo arm to find the fore/aft location of the holes.

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