BJ Craft Agenda CD
#1

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Hi all, has anyone set up and flown the new Agenda CD yet. If so what set up have you used? Is recommended CG ok? Where is battery tray located? Post some photos please.
I will be starting my set up in early December.
I will be starting my set up in early December.
#2

Hi Paul,
According to Ken Moss in the UK the recomanded CG is to back, he took it about 2 cm forward for better control.
I am curntly assmbling my Agenda and will go with 171sv all the way. drive setup I want to install is V4, I hope it will soon be produce
Here are some pic's of what I did so far. (not too much)




According to Ken Moss in the UK the recomanded CG is to back, he took it about 2 cm forward for better control.
I am curntly assmbling my Agenda and will go with 171sv all the way. drive setup I want to install is V4, I hope it will soon be produce

Here are some pic's of what I did so far. (not too much)
#3

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Thanks Ram. I see you have a removable rudder? I think you might get a V4 in January maybe! I will stick to the V3 for a while. I've a firewall/ motor mount the same as for the Inspire on the way to me.
Did you weigh all the parts before you started the build?
Did you weigh all the parts before you started the build?
Last edited by pippy; 11-17-2015 at 08:49 AM.
#4

Hi paul,
As I live in Israel and fly often to world cup events in Europe, I need to have a transporting model box.
A removable rudder saves about 15cm from the box length and help me go easy in to hotels lift's.
The total length of my box is about 190cm. Attached is some photos of the box. (the best I could find this morning)
I have no rush flying the Agenda so I can wait to the V4,
There are some more interesting drives like the one from Ralpf Schweizer, Adverum...
If the V4 will be delaying maybe will go with one of the others.
I am not familiar with your firewall on the inspire. a photo will be great.
As I have never had weight problems with BJcraft models I stoped weighing them before assembling.

As I live in Israel and fly often to world cup events in Europe, I need to have a transporting model box.
A removable rudder saves about 15cm from the box length and help me go easy in to hotels lift's.
The total length of my box is about 190cm. Attached is some photos of the box. (the best I could find this morning)

I have no rush flying the Agenda so I can wait to the V4,
There are some more interesting drives like the one from Ralpf Schweizer, Adverum...
If the V4 will be delaying maybe will go with one of the others.
I am not familiar with your firewall on the inspire. a photo will be great.
As I have never had weight problems with BJcraft models I stoped weighing them before assembling.
#5

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Very neat packing. I used to travel with a plane box also but I had 2m one.
The motor mount/ firewall has rubber grommets which give the soft effect. I think it works very well and was so easy to install.
The motor mount/ firewall has rubber grommets which give the soft effect. I think it works very well and was so easy to install.
#6

The mount looks very clean as well, I wish I knew it 3 years ago! 
Meanwhile I made some progress in my Agenda.
Usually I likes to use few drops of CA to fix the servo mounts in place and then make nice clean 3M 460 Epoxy on it.
I use the same Epoxy to glue the control horn










Meanwhile I made some progress in my Agenda.
Usually I likes to use few drops of CA to fix the servo mounts in place and then make nice clean 3M 460 Epoxy on it.
I use the same Epoxy to glue the control horn
Last edited by ram_z; 11-27-2015 at 11:06 PM.
#7

As someone said before in a different thread, the hole for the main elevator sleeve needs to be sanded due to the paint that goes in.
Before glueing the sleeve in place it is a must to check that it is in the correct position.

Then, after ensuring that the sleeve is in the correct positioning, it's time to glue it in place. I glued a temporary 2 pc' of 6mm Balsa wood spacers on each stabilizer half.
those spacers will ensure that the sleeve will be glued in the correct positionn without glueing the satbilizers...
I am also using 3M 460 Epoxy here.
As always I use a tape to keep the area clean.




Later after the glue has cured, I found out that the two halves of the stabilizer are not parallel. There was about 1 degree difference between the both halves.
so I have to make an unexpected "surgery" to correct this glitch.
After consulting with B.J. I started the so called "surgery".
It was much easier than I could imagine, about 15 minutes and I then I waited to the glue to cure.
The process was simple. Around the front sleeve of the Left stabilizer, I drilled 1mm holes through the two first ribs to disconnect the sleeve from the ribs. then I could have a play to correct the angle.
I insert a small wood rod (about 1.5 mm thick) between the sleeve and the ribs. assemble it on fuselage and checked with incidence meter. it was perfect! I disassemble the left stabilizer and glue the sleeve in the new position using Epoxy.
also use the mixed glue to glue the control horn.






Before glueing the sleeve in place it is a must to check that it is in the correct position.
Then, after ensuring that the sleeve is in the correct positioning, it's time to glue it in place. I glued a temporary 2 pc' of 6mm Balsa wood spacers on each stabilizer half.
those spacers will ensure that the sleeve will be glued in the correct positionn without glueing the satbilizers...
I am also using 3M 460 Epoxy here.
As always I use a tape to keep the area clean.
Later after the glue has cured, I found out that the two halves of the stabilizer are not parallel. There was about 1 degree difference between the both halves.
so I have to make an unexpected "surgery" to correct this glitch.
After consulting with B.J. I started the so called "surgery".
It was much easier than I could imagine, about 15 minutes and I then I waited to the glue to cure.
The process was simple. Around the front sleeve of the Left stabilizer, I drilled 1mm holes through the two first ribs to disconnect the sleeve from the ribs. then I could have a play to correct the angle.
I insert a small wood rod (about 1.5 mm thick) between the sleeve and the ribs. assemble it on fuselage and checked with incidence meter. it was perfect! I disassemble the left stabilizer and glue the sleeve in the new position using Epoxy.
also use the mixed glue to glue the control horn.
Last edited by ram_z; 11-28-2015 at 12:49 AM.
#8

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Hi Ram, easy method for adjusting the tail alignment. Will you install the wing adjusters at the build stage or will you wait until you fly. Maybe the factory setting for the wing angle might be perfect!
#9

Hi Paul,
I will first compare the incidence of the wing / stabilizer / motor of the Agenda with the old and trusty Episodes.
I like to adjust my models to have perfect up/down lines with no mix's. so I kinda hope that a copy of the Episode will be a good starting point.
At my Episode I ended up with about +3 degrees from elevator. but that was fix stabilizer. I do have some time to evaluate this step. I promise to update this thread.
Ram
I will first compare the incidence of the wing / stabilizer / motor of the Agenda with the old and trusty Episodes.

I like to adjust my models to have perfect up/down lines with no mix's. so I kinda hope that a copy of the Episode will be a good starting point.
At my Episode I ended up with about +3 degrees from elevator. but that was fix stabilizer. I do have some time to evaluate this step. I promise to update this thread.
Ram
#11

Normaly I set the starting point of the CG without the canopy, the final CG will anyhow be determined in flight.
meanwhile, I had some time to proceed with the assmbling which goes very easy.
with the next pic's I will show how I finished the assmbling of the stabilizer.
The stabilizer halves are connecting with two carbon tubes. The tubes are glued to a sleeve on the left half, and 2 screws are bolted on the right half.
next pics show the tubes being glued with 3m Epoxy.
it is very important to keep the rod clean from glue as it might cause problems when slid it thru the main sleeve on the fuselage.




Next pics, connection of the two halves together.
On the bottom part of the right stabilizer there are two factory pre marked dots which shown the location for the screws. all I have to do is slide the two stabilizer parts on the fuselage, hold it tight, and drill one hole for each tube exactly on the factory pre marked dots. Then, screw the two long bolt in place. I personally like to pour few drops of thin CA into the carbon/wood thread to make it a bit more robust.


setup the servo and pushrod. very neat with the supplied jig.


meanwhile, I had some time to proceed with the assmbling which goes very easy.
with the next pic's I will show how I finished the assmbling of the stabilizer.
The stabilizer halves are connecting with two carbon tubes. The tubes are glued to a sleeve on the left half, and 2 screws are bolted on the right half.
next pics show the tubes being glued with 3m Epoxy.
it is very important to keep the rod clean from glue as it might cause problems when slid it thru the main sleeve on the fuselage.
Next pics, connection of the two halves together.
On the bottom part of the right stabilizer there are two factory pre marked dots which shown the location for the screws. all I have to do is slide the two stabilizer parts on the fuselage, hold it tight, and drill one hole for each tube exactly on the factory pre marked dots. Then, screw the two long bolt in place. I personally like to pour few drops of thin CA into the carbon/wood thread to make it a bit more robust.
setup the servo and pushrod. very neat with the supplied jig.
#12

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The canopy is quite light as it doesn't have the canaliser attached. It won't affect the CG much anyway. Looking good on your build. I will be starting mine next week.
#15
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I have been flying the Inspire with the Agenda wings as that is one of the primary differences between the two planes. I bought an Inspire from F3A that had been damaged in shipping and needed new wings. BJ suggested trying the Agenda wing and he would cover it like the Inspire. If you lay the two wing panels on top of each other the Agenda wing has pretty much the same lines and airfoil but each panel is approximately 1 CM shorter. In the air this means that snaps are a little tighter and spin entries and exits are cleaner. The Inspire wing had a tendency to tip stall or drop a wing making the spin entries a little more difficult to control in all conditions. So far the Agenda wing doesn't seem to do that. The Inspire would carry a little momentum on exit while the Agenda wing helps the plane stop upon release of controls. Haven't noticed much downside. Probably means next plane is the whole Agenda.
Herb
Herb
#16

Hi herb,
Thanks for the info, I will search for this expiriance as soon as I will put this beauty in the air.
Short question about the Inspire elevator installation: did you use spacers between the elevators to the fuselage?
Thanks!
Rm
Thanks for the info, I will search for this expiriance as soon as I will put this beauty in the air.
Short question about the Inspire elevator installation: did you use spacers between the elevators to the fuselage?
Thanks!
Rm
#23

I am using a Secraft turnbuckle 90mm with hobbyking joints
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=8265.
http://www.espritmodel.com/pushrod-t...raft-m3-2.aspx
#25