B.J. Super Fantasista
05-15-2018, 01:15 PM
#1
B.J. Super Fantasista
FRED, a friend of mine, received yesterday a B.J. SUPER FANTASISTA
He already started working on the plane, and will send me pics to post here.
I'm really interested flying this plane I saw in Argentina during the 2017 WC.
The shipping box arrived in perfect conditions with UPS.
Everything being well secure in the box, the plane has not a single scratch.
He already started working on the plane, and will send me pics to post here.
I'm really interested flying this plane I saw in Argentina during the 2017 WC.
The shipping box arrived in perfect conditions with UPS.
Everything being well secure in the box, the plane has not a single scratch.
05-19-2018, 03:52 AM
#6
Hi BO,
Flaps are used in combination with ailerons for normal flight, snaps, air brake etc ....
Plane is very light , and 2 extras 153 or 173 BLS servos are not a problem.
There is even another extra one for the front " rudder "
Don't forget there is just a single 9170 SV servo for the flying stab...
Flaps are used in combination with ailerons for normal flight, snaps, air brake etc ....
Plane is very light , and 2 extras 153 or 173 BLS servos are not a problem.
There is even another extra one for the front " rudder "
Don't forget there is just a single 9170 SV servo for the flying stab...
05-19-2018, 08:29 PM
#8
My Feedback: (46)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Bridgewater,
NJ
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My plane came in a bit on the heavy side. It is the fixed stab version powered by a Pletty Advance. To reduce weight (46 grams), today I removed my flap servos and bolted a carbon fiber plate in the servo well with the flap servo pushrod bolted to it. You do not need the flaps. The plane snaps on ailerons alone quite well and has plenty of downline drag with the ESC braking. I have about 30 flights so far on mine. And you avoid a bunch of unnecessary radio programming. I only have 1128 grams available for 10 cell flight pack with the elimination of the flap servos. I am also trying out an MKS HV747 servo on the rudder. So far so good on the MKS servo. It is light, small and has plenty of torque for a rudder servo. I have JR NX3421's on elevators and front rudder(frudder) and JR 9411's on ailerons. I can eliminate some more weight by eliminating the serial bus hardware that I needed to accommodate all the extra servos. Need to fly it a few times to make sure the change is fine before I do that.
05-19-2018, 10:05 PM
#9
My Feedback: (1)
J Lachowski,
If You use ~5000 mAh Lipo and need rather light LiPos there is a new Hacker TopFuel 5100 mAh 20C 5S Competition F3A 2018:
https://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/Battery-pack-and-Accessories/TopFuel-F3A.htm?shop=hacker_e&SessionId=&a=catalog&p=10784
About 1096 gram for 10 cell pack.
I use myself the smaller version of this Competition F3A LiPo, the 4600 mAh (10 cell pack is between 989-992 gram).
/Bo
If You use ~5000 mAh Lipo and need rather light LiPos there is a new Hacker TopFuel 5100 mAh 20C 5S Competition F3A 2018:
https://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/Battery-pack-and-Accessories/TopFuel-F3A.htm?shop=hacker_e&SessionId=&a=catalog&p=10784
About 1096 gram for 10 cell pack.
I use myself the smaller version of this Competition F3A LiPo, the 4600 mAh (10 cell pack is between 989-992 gram).
/Bo
Last edited by bem; 05-19-2018 at 10:07 PM.
05-20-2018, 04:16 AM
#10
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Gainesville,
FL
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I built one of these for Joe Walker and he is pleased with its performance. We are building a second one with a contra (?contrasista?). We have also installed a pull pull rudder to decrease the inertia in the tail.
Not sure the flaps are needed. I plan to put a piece of double stick tape between the edges and tape the surface, then drive the whole thing with one BLS174. J-P , I notice you have an aftermarket output arm on the BLS 174. Mine have a larger than standard output spline and I have been unable to find an aftermarket output arm for the larger spline. What was your source for the output arm ?
Not sure the flaps are needed. I plan to put a piece of double stick tape between the edges and tape the surface, then drive the whole thing with one BLS174. J-P , I notice you have an aftermarket output arm on the BLS 174. Mine have a larger than standard output spline and I have been unable to find an aftermarket output arm for the larger spline. What was your source for the output arm ?
05-20-2018, 07:54 AM
#11
My Feedback: (46)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Bridgewater,
NJ
Posts: 948
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
J Lachowski,
If You use ~5000 mAh Lipo and need rather light LiPos there is a new Hacker TopFuel 5100 mAh 20C 5S Competition F3A 2018:
https://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/Battery-pack-and-Accessories/TopFuel-F3A.htm?shop=hacker_e&SessionId=&a=catalog&p=10784
About 1096 gram for 10 cell pack.
I use myself the smaller version of this Competition F3A LiPo, the 4600 mAh (10 cell pack is between 989-992 gram).
/Bo
If You use ~5000 mAh Lipo and need rather light LiPos there is a new Hacker TopFuel 5100 mAh 20C 5S Competition F3A 2018:
https://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/Battery-pack-and-Accessories/TopFuel-F3A.htm?shop=hacker_e&SessionId=&a=catalog&p=10784
About 1096 gram for 10 cell pack.
I use myself the smaller version of this Competition F3A LiPo, the 4600 mAh (10 cell pack is between 989-992 gram).
/Bo
Last edited by J Lachowski; 05-20-2018 at 07:58 AM.
05-20-2018, 09:43 AM
#12
My Feedback: (3)
J Lachowski,
If You use ~5000 mAh Lipo and need rather light LiPos there is a new Hacker TopFuel 5100 mAh 20C 5S Competition F3A 2018:
https://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/Ba...atalog&p=10784
About 1096 gram for 10 cell pack.
I use myself the smaller version of this Competition F3A LiPo, the 4600 mAh (10 cell pack is between 989-992 gram).
/Bo
If You use ~5000 mAh Lipo and need rather light LiPos there is a new Hacker TopFuel 5100 mAh 20C 5S Competition F3A 2018:
https://www.hacker-motor-shop.com/Ba...atalog&p=10784
About 1096 gram for 10 cell pack.
I use myself the smaller version of this Competition F3A LiPo, the 4600 mAh (10 cell pack is between 989-992 gram).
/Bo
A few European dealers sell them but won’t ship them to the USA... perhaps it’s part of the new battery shipping rules ?
05-21-2018, 11:33 AM
#14
Hi Blake,
These aftermarket output arm for the BLS 154 come from
https://www.lindinger.at/fr/
but I don't know if they still have them in stock
JP
These aftermarket output arm for the BLS 154 come from
https://www.lindinger.at/fr/
but I don't know if they still have them in stock
JP
05-24-2018, 03:53 AM
#16
As we are flying at the same field, Fred decided to reinforce the landing gear plate as I did.
Very light and strong.
He changed the landing gear for an aftermarket carbon one, and will use nyl-stops as well.
Note on pic N°5 the extra long bit drill needed.
MP JET blind nuts are CA directly on the landing gear legs
Very light and strong.
He changed the landing gear for an aftermarket carbon one, and will use nyl-stops as well.
Note on pic N°5 the extra long bit drill needed.
MP JET blind nuts are CA directly on the landing gear legs
Last edited by J-P; 05-24-2018 at 04:00 AM.
06-05-2018, 03:49 AM
#18
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Gainesville,
FL
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
In Joe Walker's #2 Fantasista (Contrasista) I could not mount the "frudder" servo as shown because we are using an Adverun drive which doesn't allow room for the servo in the fuselage. I therefore mounted the servo in the "frudder" itself and the output arm is fixed to the fuselage. It worked quite well and the "frudder" is quite solid possibly more so than the shown method which I used for #1Fantasista.
06-19-2018, 03:42 AM
#23
Stabilizer installation
Fred used some black venilia velvet on both sides, giving a minimum friction and quite no gap with the fuselage.
First the tubes are drilled on one side using the screws coming with the kit, then the other side of the tubes are glued in the stab with 30 mn epoxy.
You can easily check for the right friction.
When dried, you just have to remove the two screws if you want to remove the flying stab.
In order to secure the front tube glued, Fred drilled a hole trough the socket and the tube and glued in a small carbon rod.
Fred used some black venilia velvet on both sides, giving a minimum friction and quite no gap with the fuselage.
First the tubes are drilled on one side using the screws coming with the kit, then the other side of the tubes are glued in the stab with 30 mn epoxy.
You can easily check for the right friction.
When dried, you just have to remove the two screws if you want to remove the flying stab.
In order to secure the front tube glued, Fred drilled a hole trough the socket and the tube and glued in a small carbon rod.
Last edited by J-P; 06-19-2018 at 03:57 AM.
