CK AERO Alchemy Pro Builder's Kit Foam Cores
#54

I first taped off the hatch and sprayed the grey textured paint. I did light spray. I want to keep it light.

then, I trimmed the canopy plastic using the shears.

then, and this took weeks and searching, I was trying to see which pilots. I tested at least 5 and ordered 4 more, different sizes. Just for kicks and laughs, these are some:


way too big

too big still
i settled on this one, but I had to trim it down:

still slightly too big.
this is after trimming it down:

next step
the instrument panel.
I made a template of where it would go and then I brought out my instruments:

then I made a panel using carbon fiber cloth and West system epoxy resin. Let it cure over night. then trimmed it down to the shape of the template. and Using Forstner bits, I made the holes for the instruments.

then I sanded down the panel, and then glued in the instruemnts and also brushed one last layer of epoxy resin


then, I trimmed the canopy plastic using the shears.

then, and this took weeks and searching, I was trying to see which pilots. I tested at least 5 and ordered 4 more, different sizes. Just for kicks and laughs, these are some:


way too big

too big still
i settled on this one, but I had to trim it down:

still slightly too big.
this is after trimming it down:

next step
the instrument panel.
I made a template of where it would go and then I brought out my instruments:

then I made a panel using carbon fiber cloth and West system epoxy resin. Let it cure over night. then trimmed it down to the shape of the template. and Using Forstner bits, I made the holes for the instruments.

then I sanded down the panel, and then glued in the instruemnts and also brushed one last layer of epoxy resin

#59

this is the final result. Prior to painting.
I applied some more glazing putty after primer to make sure that interface where the canopy plastic was adhered to the hatch blends in.
SO far, looks good to me.
now, ready to paint.
I ordered paint in the following colors:
guards red
yellow
black
magenta blue
these are automotive aerosal paints for a porsche.
and clear for afterwards.
now, to cover the wings.

I applied some more glazing putty after primer to make sure that interface where the canopy plastic was adhered to the hatch blends in.
SO far, looks good to me.
now, ready to paint.
I ordered paint in the following colors:
guards red
yellow
black
magenta blue
these are automotive aerosal paints for a porsche.
and clear for afterwards.
now, to cover the wings.

The following 2 users liked this post by orthobird:
rcprecision (07-03-2022),
Ricardo M. (07-04-2022)
#60

Hello Orthobird
Thank you very much for the time you spend posting these very informative photos.
I really like the look of the transparent cockpit.
Claude
Thank you very much for the time you spend posting these very informative photos.
I really like the look of the transparent cockpit.
Claude
Last edited by papaone; 07-04-2022 at 08:03 AM.
The following 3 users liked this post by papaone:
#61

thank you so much Claude. I like it too. It may add a little weight, but I will never be an FAI pilot or even masters. For now, strictly SPortsman and maybe Intermediate soon.
Well, I was able to do some covering of the wings. Both stabs are covered but graphics have not been added.
Before I did the coverning, I decided to do the covering on my kitchen table. To protect the glass, I placed a piece of cardboard. I made all my cuts and covering over the cardboard.
Then, before I brought the wings and stabs into the house, I used an air compressor to remove as much balsa dust as possible,
Once I brought them Inside, i then obtained a tack cloth and began to rub it down.
this is the actual brand that I used.


Once you start to swipe the cloth over the balsa, you will be amazed on how much dust it picks up. Then, I get a new one, and repeat. I used a total of 4 wipes. On the last swiping, i icould not see dust on the tack cloth.
This is the prep for the wings. I like to cover the hinge lines, tips, and roots, then I glued on the ailerons.
Makes alignment of graphics to be easier. guarantees they line up (in my hands).

and so far, this is the top of one wing. This evening, i will do the other wings top to make sure it is identical to this one. Still may add more graphics to the top of the wings. I will ponder on this.

this was at 1st, but the white bleed thru the yellow, so i wanted to cover this.

adding the black, now there is no bleed thru.
Well, I was able to do some covering of the wings. Both stabs are covered but graphics have not been added.
Before I did the coverning, I decided to do the covering on my kitchen table. To protect the glass, I placed a piece of cardboard. I made all my cuts and covering over the cardboard.
Then, before I brought the wings and stabs into the house, I used an air compressor to remove as much balsa dust as possible,
Once I brought them Inside, i then obtained a tack cloth and began to rub it down.
this is the actual brand that I used.


Once you start to swipe the cloth over the balsa, you will be amazed on how much dust it picks up. Then, I get a new one, and repeat. I used a total of 4 wipes. On the last swiping, i icould not see dust on the tack cloth.
This is the prep for the wings. I like to cover the hinge lines, tips, and roots, then I glued on the ailerons.
Makes alignment of graphics to be easier. guarantees they line up (in my hands).

and so far, this is the top of one wing. This evening, i will do the other wings top to make sure it is identical to this one. Still may add more graphics to the top of the wings. I will ponder on this.

this was at 1st, but the white bleed thru the yellow, so i wanted to cover this.

adding the black, now there is no bleed thru.
The following 3 users liked this post by orthobird:
#63

wings are covered!!
yippie!

this is the bottom of the wings and stabs. My goal was to put colors that will create a contrast. Hopefully it will be visible in the sky.
next step:
to paint the fuselage
the paint arrived and I am demonstrating what I am using.
this is Porsche touch up aerosol paint
followed by clear.
the paint as seen costs: 152 dollars shipped to my door.

I have used this before, and results are amazing.
After talking to Bryan H. , his recommendation is, no primer required on the fuselage. Only for me to use 1000 grit sand paper to scuff the surface.
then clean thoroughly, and spray the paint on.
WIsh me luck!
yippie!

this is the bottom of the wings and stabs. My goal was to put colors that will create a contrast. Hopefully it will be visible in the sky.
next step:
to paint the fuselage
the paint arrived and I am demonstrating what I am using.
this is Porsche touch up aerosol paint
followed by clear.
the paint as seen costs: 152 dollars shipped to my door.

I have used this before, and results are amazing.
After talking to Bryan H. , his recommendation is, no primer required on the fuselage. Only for me to use 1000 grit sand paper to scuff the surface.
then clean thoroughly, and spray the paint on.
WIsh me luck!
The following users liked this post:
Ricardo M. (07-12-2022)
#64

Preface:
Setting incidence on a small airplane like this, that is so light weight, is not easy. ANd luckily, plan from get go was to install the wing adjusters.
SO my goal was to install the pins as close to possible to o degrees.
so this is what I did
Had my friend come over and assist me. He held while I advanced the drill bit.
The materials I used:

I obtained these nylon bolts, that are M6 mm threads. And the kit came with the white thumb-bolt.
Then I obtained carbon fiber tube that has an 8 mm outer diameter. The CF tube 8 mm OD is for the anti-rotation pins. These will go in the forward and rear aspect of the wing root.
The nylon bolt will go just rear to the wing tube. To glue in the Nylon bolt, after drilling into in, then I will tap the plywood with M6 tap, and then glue in the clear nylon bolt and then cut off the head.
So, next step was to have my assistant hold the wing from the other side. The fuselage was held on a table by supporting the fuselage and not on the landing gear, and then assuring the hatch area was level to ZERO.
then, the incidence meter placed on the wing, while he held the wing on ZERO, as best we could, i then drilled all 3 holes, using long drill bits, from the holes on the fuselage side.

once all the holes were made, I then glued in the pins and the clear nylon M6 threads using HYSOL:

root of wing after drilling all the holes.

HYSOL glue

Mixed the Hysol with some milled fiberglass

HYSOL

after mixing in the milled fiberglass

Once all the pins and threads were glued and installed.
Setting incidence on a small airplane like this, that is so light weight, is not easy. ANd luckily, plan from get go was to install the wing adjusters.
SO my goal was to install the pins as close to possible to o degrees.
so this is what I did
Had my friend come over and assist me. He held while I advanced the drill bit.
The materials I used:

I obtained these nylon bolts, that are M6 mm threads. And the kit came with the white thumb-bolt.
Then I obtained carbon fiber tube that has an 8 mm outer diameter. The CF tube 8 mm OD is for the anti-rotation pins. These will go in the forward and rear aspect of the wing root.
The nylon bolt will go just rear to the wing tube. To glue in the Nylon bolt, after drilling into in, then I will tap the plywood with M6 tap, and then glue in the clear nylon bolt and then cut off the head.
So, next step was to have my assistant hold the wing from the other side. The fuselage was held on a table by supporting the fuselage and not on the landing gear, and then assuring the hatch area was level to ZERO.
then, the incidence meter placed on the wing, while he held the wing on ZERO, as best we could, i then drilled all 3 holes, using long drill bits, from the holes on the fuselage side.

once all the holes were made, I then glued in the pins and the clear nylon M6 threads using HYSOL:

root of wing after drilling all the holes.

HYSOL glue

Mixed the Hysol with some milled fiberglass

HYSOL

after mixing in the milled fiberglass

Once all the pins and threads were glued and installed.
Last edited by orthobird; 07-16-2022 at 04:48 AM.
The following users liked this post:
big_G (07-16-2022)
#74

The Clear coat is on, so now, I just need to wait maybe 4 days, then I can polish it.
JUst made the extensions for the rudder servo and elevator servos.
These are 100 cm in length
and they are Powerbox servo extensions

So next step for me, will be to install the rudder servo
then install the motor.
Which should be interesting. Never done a counter rotating propeller drive before.
JUst made the extensions for the rudder servo and elevator servos.
These are 100 cm in length
and they are Powerbox servo extensions

So next step for me, will be to install the rudder servo
then install the motor.
Which should be interesting. Never done a counter rotating propeller drive before.
#75

SOme pictures to show where I am at.
If anyone has any ideas, please chime in.
first, to show you all I got.
the motor is 12S. this is the V4 contra Drive.

there is more that came with it.

SO then, it looks like there is 4 cm space between the back of the spinner plate and the front mount of the motor.

In order for me to be able to even see how to install this, I had to do some disassembly:

once I removed the front cones, then I removed all 6 screws.


Now, I can fit the motor in from the rear and get a better Idea of what i have to do.

front of the nose

from inside view
for now, I am sending out several messages to several people to get an idea on how to do this.
I probably want a spinner gap of about 1/8" or less
And I want to know from Bryan if the nose has any down thrust or right thrust.
I will document as much as I can about this once I learn how to do it.
If anyone has any ideas, please chime in.
first, to show you all I got.
the motor is 12S. this is the V4 contra Drive.

there is more that came with it.

SO then, it looks like there is 4 cm space between the back of the spinner plate and the front mount of the motor.

In order for me to be able to even see how to install this, I had to do some disassembly:

once I removed the front cones, then I removed all 6 screws.


Now, I can fit the motor in from the rear and get a better Idea of what i have to do.

front of the nose

from inside view
for now, I am sending out several messages to several people to get an idea on how to do this.
I probably want a spinner gap of about 1/8" or less
And I want to know from Bryan if the nose has any down thrust or right thrust.
I will document as much as I can about this once I learn how to do it.
The following users liked this post:
Ricardo M. (07-17-2022)