2M Electric only planes...?
09-14-2009, 03:17 PM
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2M Electric only planes...?
Ok, so how many/what are they? Composite, Wood, Air... whatever 
Add price too please.
Spark (really doubt you will get a YS in that nose) $????
??????????
????????
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Add price too please.Spark (really doubt you will get a YS in that nose) $????
??????????
????????
.......
09-14-2009, 04:25 PM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
Hi Jason,
It's Jason from Australia.
What about John Payne's Tempest? It's only for electric and costs about $770.00 USD.
Cheers
Jason.
It's Jason from Australia.
What about John Payne's Tempest? It's only for electric and costs about $770.00 USD.
Cheers
Jason.
09-14-2009, 07:48 PM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
Passport Deluxe from CA Models. All Composite fuse, foam sheeted wings. I bought it used from a guy who tried to use glow in it. It started developing problems from all the vibration. I converted it to electric, and it has been solid. The Passport probably should be sold as an electric only airframe.
09-14-2009, 08:41 PM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
Be patient and you will get the Sebart Wind S Pro, due to be out very soon. No later than Dec '09 it seems. That is more affordable (relatively) than planes from the Oxai stable. Composite fuse with built up wings.
Then you have the EF Vanquish, rumoured to be sub $700 only it will be a great buy for sure. Its going to be EP and GP but the EP version built lighter.
Then you have the EF Vanquish, rumoured to be sub $700 only it will be a great buy for sure. Its going to be EP and GP but the EP version built lighter.
09-15-2009, 06:42 PM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
So if there was a dedicated, electric only, wood ARF... would having lightning holes all over be acceptable (open bays in the wing, all surfaces lightened, aft end of fuse open) or would you rather have it plane fully sheeted everywhere?
09-15-2009, 08:05 PM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
Open bays on the wing wouldn't bother me if the wing was stiff enough. Open bays on the fuse, sides or bottom would be okay too, again depending on how stiff or rigid the fuse is.
Three things that I would like to see thought out on such a plane are: Provisions for mounting both outrunner and inrunner motors. Such structures would need to be really stiff and not allow any flex. Also, provisions for mounting the battery... the current crop of dedicated E-pattern planes have done this really well provided easy mounting and easy access. Ideally the whole top of the forward part of the fuse should be able to be lifted off. Though that again comes back to the rigidity of the fuse... might be hard to provide that kind of access. Lastly, with all of this, provisions for easy air ducting for cooling... entrance and exit. Should be a plug and play type of airplane with most of the figuring and tinkering done for you.
The vast majority of our E-pattern planes are way overbuilt, I think there is room to lighten them up considerably. With that said, I wouldn't want to fly something too light, but a light airframe gives you more options on equipment.
Tom M
Three things that I would like to see thought out on such a plane are: Provisions for mounting both outrunner and inrunner motors. Such structures would need to be really stiff and not allow any flex. Also, provisions for mounting the battery... the current crop of dedicated E-pattern planes have done this really well provided easy mounting and easy access. Ideally the whole top of the forward part of the fuse should be able to be lifted off. Though that again comes back to the rigidity of the fuse... might be hard to provide that kind of access. Lastly, with all of this, provisions for easy air ducting for cooling... entrance and exit. Should be a plug and play type of airplane with most of the figuring and tinkering done for you.
The vast majority of our E-pattern planes are way overbuilt, I think there is room to lighten them up considerably. With that said, I wouldn't want to fly something too light, but a light airframe gives you more options on equipment.
Tom M
09-15-2009, 08:28 PM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
Market what...lol.
Anyone have Nue motor set-up dims?... just in case. I already have Hacker in-runner and Pletty and Fury set-ups. I know the Axi is also only a couple of mm shorter than the Pletty/Fury. Any others? Hope none of the outrunners are longer than 67mm
Anyone have Nue motor set-up dims?... just in case. I already have Hacker in-runner and Pletty and Fury set-ups. I know the Axi is also only a couple of mm shorter than the Pletty/Fury. Any others? Hope none of the outrunners are longer than 67mm
09-15-2009, 08:43 PM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
I know nothing... but I hope it will be 'shocking' once it's all together...lol. And there is actually more than one super secret project going on
09-15-2009, 10:13 PM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
JAS ... sheeted planes 'feel' more sturdy and the covering looks better too. The finish makes it look like composite planes especially when you want to have curves on the fuse, I get that comment a lot with my Seb planes. That is purely aesthetics only.
Then you have motor mounting issues, AXI-Hacker A series-Hacker C series etc. Nose ring mounting makes it easy but it can be touch and go if its not sturdy enough. I like Comp ARFs solution to motor mounting. A removable rudder ala Composite ARF would be great, that shortens the plane by 8" for transporting. How about an adjustable H stab?
Make sure that the AUW is not based on super light batts only. I believe if its priced right, below $700 (for a wood ARF), many will be your semi competitive flyers who will be purchasing batts from places like Hobby City, where the 10S packs come up to 1,300g.
As for cooling, test it out in warmer climates, I got a bipe that is lovely but the cooling is not right for my country, its usually about 30*C here. Any chance for those giant scale type of hinges where by they are sealed? Does it make a plane fly better?
Then you have motor mounting issues, AXI-Hacker A series-Hacker C series etc. Nose ring mounting makes it easy but it can be touch and go if its not sturdy enough. I like Comp ARFs solution to motor mounting. A removable rudder ala Composite ARF would be great, that shortens the plane by 8" for transporting. How about an adjustable H stab?
Make sure that the AUW is not based on super light batts only. I believe if its priced right, below $700 (for a wood ARF), many will be your semi competitive flyers who will be purchasing batts from places like Hobby City, where the 10S packs come up to 1,300g.
As for cooling, test it out in warmer climates, I got a bipe that is lovely but the cooling is not right for my country, its usually about 30*C here. Any chance for those giant scale type of hinges where by they are sealed? Does it make a plane fly better?
09-15-2009, 10:47 PM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
The Neu F3A-1 is 125mm long, not counting the prop thrust washer (back of motor can to face of gearbox/c clip).
I wouldn't mind an open bay construction. It should be light, no reason to overbuild these things. Heck, you could scale up the old Jumping Jack and have a neat plane.
I'd really like to see someone utilize a construction of subframe with thin molded depron skin. The skin of the plane does not have to provide the structural strength, it can just be aerodynamic. I would try and make the fuselage a CF tube (or long triangular shaft) and put ribs/standoffs on it to hold the other structural elements (tailfeathers and wing tube mount) and then wrap a skin around it. Depron skins (or thin vacu formed or molded skins) could be replaced if damaged. Heck, they could even be pre-painted.
All that has been done so far is to make electric conversions of glow planes. Sure, there have been some electric only setups, but they are not taking full advantage of what is possible and they are baby steps towards an electric only construction.
None of the planes listed in this thread are departures from the norm. I guess the Amethyst and Miss Wind Bipe are closest, but they are still using classic design and construction techniques.
Let's try some new ideas. I'd give it a go.
I wouldn't mind an open bay construction. It should be light, no reason to overbuild these things. Heck, you could scale up the old Jumping Jack and have a neat plane.
I'd really like to see someone utilize a construction of subframe with thin molded depron skin. The skin of the plane does not have to provide the structural strength, it can just be aerodynamic. I would try and make the fuselage a CF tube (or long triangular shaft) and put ribs/standoffs on it to hold the other structural elements (tailfeathers and wing tube mount) and then wrap a skin around it. Depron skins (or thin vacu formed or molded skins) could be replaced if damaged. Heck, they could even be pre-painted.
All that has been done so far is to make electric conversions of glow planes. Sure, there have been some electric only setups, but they are not taking full advantage of what is possible and they are baby steps towards an electric only construction.
None of the planes listed in this thread are departures from the norm. I guess the Amethyst and Miss Wind Bipe are closest, but they are still using classic design and construction techniques.
Let's try some new ideas. I'd give it a go.
09-15-2009, 11:48 PM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
Motor and batteries sitting right on the CG. Drive the prop with an extended shaft. Hollow Titanium.
Look at high end open frame thermal duration and free flight construction. CF capped ribs and TE. Stiff, true, light.
Think outside the box, no penalty this time!!
Look at high end open frame thermal duration and free flight construction. CF capped ribs and TE. Stiff, true, light.
Think outside the box, no penalty this time!!
09-16-2009, 12:50 AM
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RE: 2M Electric only planes...?
Well it will be a 'traditional' design but will have a motor box built for electric motors. There will probably have to be some 'builder mods' done to run an in-runner, but shouldn't be too difficult. It will be as light as possible as there won't be much chance of converting this to glow (someone will try I'm sure) but want it to be inexpensive so the average pilot can get this and fly it in Sportsman if he wants. I don't see any sort of fragile or special build techniques as people are already scared of composite planes, I can only imagine the fears of a depron or some kind of shell/skinned plane. The build will be basic, but the performance will be well above (I hope right off the bat).
