Contra Rotating Propeller Drive for f3a 2m Pattern Planes
#2001
Thread Starter
Hey John,
Try putting the pinion gear bolt back in and then loosen it up a few turns. Then tap on the head of the bolt with any handy tool. You should be able to knock the bronze insert free.
Brenner ...
Try putting the pinion gear bolt back in and then loosen it up a few turns. Then tap on the head of the bolt with any handy tool. You should be able to knock the bronze insert free.
Brenner ...
#2002
My Feedback: (3)
Hello
I have another quick prop question
I noticed that you can purchase 21” and 22” props with the same pitch front and rear
Is there an advantage or reason why you would want the same pitch front and rear?
I normally see different pitch between the two with the rear prop always having more pitch , like 20 front and 22 rear
As always, thank you
I have another quick prop question
I noticed that you can purchase 21” and 22” props with the same pitch front and rear
Is there an advantage or reason why you would want the same pitch front and rear?
I normally see different pitch between the two with the rear prop always having more pitch , like 20 front and 22 rear
As always, thank you
#2003
Thread Starter
Hello
I have another quick prop question
I noticed that you can purchase 21” and 22” props with the same pitch front and rear
Is there an advantage or reason why you would want the same pitch front and rear?
I normally see different pitch between the two with the rear prop always having more pitch , like 20 front and 22 rear
As always, thank you
I have another quick prop question
I noticed that you can purchase 21” and 22” props with the same pitch front and rear
Is there an advantage or reason why you would want the same pitch front and rear?
I normally see different pitch between the two with the rear prop always having more pitch , like 20 front and 22 rear
As always, thank you
The V4 Contra Drive uses a planetary gearbox that automatically adjusts the speed of each prop so that the torque from each prop is equal and opposite, canceling each other out. This means that a V4 Contra Drive will automatically compensate for differences in the pitch of both props. If an Adverun style Contra Drive is used then no compensation is done. The setup will be more sensitive to the selection of prop pitch and prop diameter, and there will be prop effects that can be noticed by the pilot when the pilot transitions from full throttle to low throttle. For this reason, prop selection is more critical with an Adverun style Drive.
Brenner ...
#2005
Thread Starter
They are both Pyro 600 size motors, but they have been redesigned. The rear bearing has been upsized so that it is now the same size as the front bearings, and the front bearings are held in with a retainer clip. Internally these motors are designed with a threaded assembly that clamps the stator, which eliminates the need for the small cap-screw that retains the stator in the Pyro 600 motor. The windings are rated for 250C continuous and 300C intermittent, and the magnets are rated for 150C intermittent.
These motors also come with a redesigned collapsible collet for attaching the motor to the Drive. This collet clamps the motor shaft in two places, which guarantees perfect alignment between the motor and the Drive, even after severe prop strikes.
There is a 750 rpm/V motor that is available right now that matches the performance of the current 10s V4 Contra Drive, and there is an 812 rpm/V motor that is being tested for pilots who run the D3 rpm governing ESC. This motor is probably too powerful for use with a regular ESC but when used with a D3 ESC it gives the D3 lots of headroom that it can use to govern speed regardless of flight attitude or condition.
Anyone interested in the 750 rpm/V motor can get one through f3a Unlimited. However, you'll probably have to call Mike Mueller directly, because it's not listed on the website yet.
Brenner ...
Last edited by Brenner; 12-04-2021 at 08:18 AM.
#2006
Thanks for the information. I also fly precision aerobatics with helicopters and run all of my Kontronik Kosmik and Jive Pro ESCs at 80% in Idle Up 2 to allow the governor to work so while I don't use the D3 ESC, I understand the need for its headroom. Might there be some advantage to using the 812kv motor with, for example, a Jive Pro and limit the throttle end point to provide for a prop RPM equivalent to a typical V4 10S setup? Then, on a very windy day, one would have the option of increasing the throttle end point as needed to gain a bit more speed. Just a thought.
Mike
Mike
#2007
Thread Starter
Thanks for the information. I also fly precision aerobatics with helicopters and run all of my Kontronik Kosmik and Jive Pro ESCs at 80% in Idle Up 2 to allow the governor to work so while I don't use the D3 ESC, I understand the need for its headroom. Might there be some advantage to using the 812kv motor with, for example, a Jive Pro and limit the throttle end point to provide for a prop RPM equivalent to a typical V4 10S setup? Then, on a very windy day, one would have the option of increasing the throttle end point as needed to gain a bit more speed. Just a thought.
Mike
Mike
The 750 motor has more than enough power for anyone. I can say with good confidence that no one is going to complain about the power that's available with the 750 motor.
Brenner ...
#2009
Thread Starter
#2011
Thread Starter
#2012
Good to have choices. Benefit of 12S over 10S seems to negligible. Same ESC, same size motor, maybe cable could be thinner.
At least in Europe you can find decent 5S 5Ah packs 570g/20oz. 6S packs are not any lighter.
At least in Europe you can find decent 5S 5Ah packs 570g/20oz. 6S packs are not any lighter.
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wattsup (12-06-2021)
#2013
Thread Starter
Brenner ...
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andy_shekuan (10-07-2022)
#2014
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Prop Recommendations
Hi everyone, I'm getting an Alchemy Bipe with a Contra V4 and was looking for prop recommendations. I was looking at the 23x20F (can't find it in stock ATM) 23x22R.
I've also read on this thread of people using 22x20F, 22x22R.
What setup do you guys recommend and what are some of the pros cons of different combinations.
Thanks
I've also read on this thread of people using 22x20F, 22x22R.
What setup do you guys recommend and what are some of the pros cons of different combinations.
Thanks
#2015
Thread Starter
Hi everyone, I'm getting an Alchemy Bipe with a Contra V4 and was looking for prop recommendations. I was looking at the 23x20F (can't find it in stock ATM) 23x22R.
I've also read on this thread of people using 22x20F, 22x22R.
What setup do you guys recommend and what are some of the pros cons of different combinations.
Thanks
I've also read on this thread of people using 22x20F, 22x22R.
What setup do you guys recommend and what are some of the pros cons of different combinations.
Thanks
Both setups are good. The 23" setup will give you more speed range and better vertical performance, and the 22" setup will pull less from your packs.
Brenner ...
#2016
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Thanks
#2017
Thread Starter
Brenner ...
#2018
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So if you have the older v4/pyro 600 mounted in your airframe, what exactly needs to be changed to mount the new motor with the new motor plate?
Does it require alteratation to the existing mount or just mount the new plate to the new motor and bolt it in?
Does it require alteratation to the existing mount or just mount the new plate to the new motor and bolt it in?
#2019
Thread Starter
it’s a “bolt-in” upgrade…
#2020
Front Hub Removal
There seems to be a lot of up/down, left/right movement of the prop assembly in my V4 contra.....more than the normal amount resulting from the rubber shock mount. Consequently, I'm taking the drive apart to inspect it. How does one get the front hub off the drive? I removed the front prop but that front hub which sits right behind the front prop can't just be pulled off by hand. If I understand the diagram in the user's manual, the front hub is tightened down on a collet. I don't have any special puller tools to remove hardware that's sitting on a collet. Any ideas?
Mike
Mike
#2021
There seems to be a lot of up/down, left/right movement of the prop assembly in my V4 contra.....more than the normal amount resulting from the rubber shock mount. Consequently, I'm taking the drive apart to inspect it. How does one get the front hub off the drive? I removed the front prop but that front hub which sits right behind the front prop can't just be pulled off by hand. If I understand the diagram in the user's manual, the front hub is tightened down on a collet. I don't have any special puller tools to remove hardware that's sitting on a collet. Any ideas?
Mike
Mike
If someone else has done it without the puller please chime in.
Bill
#2022
If you bought the drive new, you would have gotten a brass hub puller. It is a nut with outer extended threads and treads on the inside, You screw it onto the shaft and tighten. it threads into the hub. It is only a friction fit, and this will pop the collet free from the shaft. If you don't have a puller, you can carefully apply equal pressure on both sides of the outer hub by prying against the rear spinner. Be very careful, you don't want to bend anything.
If someone else has done it without the puller please chime in.
Bill
If someone else has done it without the puller please chime in.
Bill
Mike
#2023
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Hi
Hi, I'm trying to unmount the contra v4. I've taken out the labyrinth seal and bolted in the pinion gear bolt to push the collet but it's not doing anything (it bottoms out). I've tried a longer screw that bottoms out but have applied reasonable force but it won't come out. Any suggestions
Hi, I'm trying to unmount the contra v4. I've taken out the labyrinth seal and bolted in the pinion gear bolt to push the collet but it's not doing anything (it bottoms out). I've tried a longer screw that bottoms out but have applied reasonable force but it won't come out. Any suggestions
#2024
If it is the newer style collet that extends back to the front bearing of the motor, it is not intended to be removed as you described. I believe the motor should be removed from the plane and collet heated so it can be pulled off.
Hi
Hi, I'm trying to unmount the contra v4. I've taken out the labyrinth seal and bolted in the pinion gear bolt to push the collet but it's not doing anything (it bottoms out). I've tried a longer screw that bottoms out but have applied reasonable force but it won't come out. Any suggestions
Hi, I'm trying to unmount the contra v4. I've taken out the labyrinth seal and bolted in the pinion gear bolt to push the collet but it's not doing anything (it bottoms out). I've tried a longer screw that bottoms out but have applied reasonable force but it won't come out. Any suggestions
#2025
Thread Starter
Brenner…