koakiss

i see. so what i was thinking of is using the push rods that came with the bird.just needed to know what are the diameter, but i guess its worth while to buy seperatly the push rods with higher quality.

wagen017

it is going to be REALLY interesting to see if this works well on 5S. Please make sure you let us know!

Volkert

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

There's no reason it shouldn't. It's the same setup used in the 3D Hobby Shop Osiris.. Most examples of the Osiris seem to be a few ounces heavier than the Wind. You just drop down to a 15x10 or 15x12 prop since it's the 12s on 5S instead of the 16s on 6S.

J Lachowski

My Feedback: (46)

The A50 12S will definitely work. Have one in an Osiris on a PT Models 16X10 CF prop. No problem with AMA Masters sequence. Not a 3D setup but definitely good enough for sequence flying. At least for me anyway.

stranex

Hey guys,

Been out the scene for a year or so due to other commitments but having a great previous experience with a Sebart Katana 30E, I see this as the next logical step up (I don't care so much for 3D and would like something a little more stable).

I currently own a AXI 4130/16 which on paper seems very similar specs to the suggested A50-16S. Has anyone any experience using the AXI? Would it fit the motor mount ok or would I need to mod it at all? I also have some Thunder Power 30C 6S 3250. This are a little lower capacity than suggested....I don't see any problem supplying the power but I guess I'll just have slightly lower endurance? Also thinking of using a 3 blade prop, maybe a Xoar 15x8 or possibly a Menz 15x10.....Although not maybe as efficient as a 2 blade, I beleive this may help with the braking in downlines and provide a little more power in the uplines?

I'm also interested in adding a pull-pull system for the rudder as previous posts mention. Having never attempted this before, is it quite straight forward or do I need any particular building skills? Is it just a matter of threading the wire throught the covering or should I run them through some tubing where they exit? And what about running the cables parallel or crossing over? I've read +/- for both but would be keen to know what people suggest for this particular model?

Any advice/tips gratrefully received!

rcpattern

My Feedback: (45)

Stranex,

I don't have the Axi to be able to answer your question on will it work, but I can help with the rudder question. The tray is already installed for a rudder to use pull-pull. Nothing special that has to be done.

Arch

viva_peru

Stranex,

I used the same AXI on an Angel and if the mounting system in the Wind 50E is the same, the answer is yes. I have to enlarge the holes on the X-mount in order to get it to accept the bolts and match the Hacker pattern, but it was easy to do.

Good luck,

Teo

desertrider49

My Feedback: (5)

Stranex
Mine came with guide tubes at the exit holes. The formers are in the way so I would advise crossing the cables so the cables won't cut any wood inside. Also, from my experience, get the cables pretty snug so the rudder stays steady during flight. I attached the cables to the servo first and made the last connection at the rudder (with the radio on) so as not to try to work inside the fuse with two hands.
Mine came with the ailerons badly warped. Check yours before attaching them to the wing so you can straighten them if needed. I clothes pinned mine to my long sanding block and heated them up with my heat gun and warped them back to straight.

Good Luck,
Randy

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

I guess I've been lucky with mine as I've had none of the issues reported here. My stab tube fits perfectly, and I have no warped control surfaces. I decided to put the rudder servo in the tail, but looking at it now I think I'm going to need to move it to the tray under the canopy for balance purposes.

stranex

Thanks fellas.....most useful. Sounds like the 4130/16 will suit fine with minor adjustments.

Randy, interesting to heR the tubes guides are already in place.... The instructions don't seem to mention anything about using this method?! You mention crossing the cables..... How do you ensure they don't rub against each other and also, I presume there must be some rubbing against the exit tubes? Does this matter? Pull pull is all new to me so don't wish to screw it up!

rjtw

Stranex,
The Wind 50 was my first time setting up pull-pull as well. It was easy! Cross the cables inside the fuselage and just run them out the pre-existing exit holes. I didn't use any tubing (mine didn't come with any). Select a rudder servo arm such that the ball link connections to the arm are about the same distance apart as the two ball link connections at the rudder end. Rubbing of the cables together or at the exit holes is virtually nonexistent and, even if there is some, the cables are so low friction and there is so little vibration that the cables should last the life of the airframe and more. Ihave some pictures of the setup a few posts back in this thread.

Ifound this instructive scroll down to page 10:

http://www.3dhobbyshop.com/assets/im...TRA-Manual.pdf

Rick

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

Did anyone have any trouble with the fit of the wheelpants? Mine are warped to the point of being unusable. Basically the mounting pad on the inside edge is at about a 20 degree angle from vertical because of the poor shape of the pant. I'm either going to have to sand the heck out of it, or find another wheel pant to use.

Baper

Doug,
The same problem was with my pants..
I sanded them a lot from the inside so it was a good fit.
I am using an AXI 4130/20 with a 18x10 APC Eprop, on 6S 4000 Lipo.
Good combination for F3A,flight times of 8 minutes plus, with at least 30% battery remaining.
Not good enough for Hovering manouver, you do not have the boost to get you out of it.
On 8S and APC 16x10 it is a diferent animal, more suited for 3D flight.

stranex

Thanks Baper,

Even though the 4130/16 has a little more grun than the /20 and I'm using lighter (?) lipos, I'm not too bothered about 3D.....this will be my bird for flying precision, I've still got the old 30E Katana for mucking around without fear of piling it in!

Rick....thanks for the link and your comments. I read somewhere that the rubbing together of the wires was more a problem for creating RF interference but I guess with 2.4 that's not so much of an issue? Netherless, found a tip somewhere to either cover the wires in vaselin where they rub, or to run through some nylon tubing at the point of contact so may try this if neccesary

I'm not sure I understand completely the instructions earlier in the thread for installing the supplied rudder horns when using pull/pull. They mention using wood glue and CA to fix one side and then installing the other side a day later when the woods glue's cured? I'm obviously missing something but why the wood glue? Are the pre cut holes too big to accept the horns? Or because you're using two horns instead of one, do you have to create your own cutouts? I guess it'll make sense once I have the kit in front of me but I'd like to know what I'm letting myself in for before I make the purchase!

Steve

desertrider49

My Feedback: (5)

I believe that was my suggestion, I put the wood glue inside the rudder so it would dry all around the control horn. The surface under the control horn on the outside is very small so I wanted to get as much glue as I could in there to help hold the control horn in place.

Hopefully, you will see what I meant when you assemble yours. At any rate, we will all be here to help when you have questions.

Randy

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

I used CA on my rudder horns and they're plenty strong enough. One thing to remember when using any kind of fiberglass horns is to rough up the gluing surface with some sandpaper to give the glue something more to grab.

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

Thanks Baper.. I'm not concerned with 3D performance at all with this airplane. This is an F3A practice airplane for me while I'm building my actual competition airplanes. I went with the Hacker A50-12S on 5S 4000 LiPos. Undecided on the prop but I'm leaning towards the APC 16x12 cut down to 15" or 15x10. I really wish APC made a 15x12E prop.

J Lachowski

My Feedback: (46)

Doug, I'm using a PT Models 16X10 Carbon Fiber Prop on my A50 12S in my Osiris. You can get it from Esprit Models.

http://www.espritmodel.com/index.asp...D&ProdID=13223

koakiss

Alright just picked up my wind 50 at the shop, it took some time to get here. Box looks ok no damage out side the box. had a look at the parts and the fuse. all seems to be in good order, only little bit of problem as metioned by others is that the stab. tube has some slack when put on the fuse. and some bits of wood in the elevater control surface, can hear it bounce about when you shake it. The servos i got for the aliron are a bit too wide and long, i got the Alturn USA low profile will need to cut a bit and grind it down with GF manicure set.
still waiting on the scorpion motor and some bits and bobs from HK. estimated time to complet end of March dam HK are slow.

CRAPTECH

My wind came in the other day and I was very excited, I saw the plane in action at the Lakeland contest a few weeks ago and thought for me flying sportsman what else do I need. (Focus for sale)
I was trying to test fly on Saturday, but I have having problems with the ESC, I have the Ice 75 and Hacker A50-16s, all it does is beep. I have tried everything, changed the receivers out tried a different ESC and motor on the receiver, it works. Called Castle creations, they told me that the ESC was not getting a signal. I am using a separate receiver battier, clip the red wire. A friend is going to bring over a 100amp unit this weekend to try and see if we can get it working. Any suggestions here, I know I have something wrong, but what? Hey thanks TMG

Elevators -Futaba 9650
Ailerons- HS-5245
Hacker A50-16s
ESU—who knows
Rudder Pull-Pull JR cheap digital

toddblose

My Feedback: (10)

Did you try the subtrim, I had to adjust it to get the motor to start on one I just installed also the throttle needs to be reversed if you are flying Futaba

CRAPTECH

I have tried everything with the ESC, two receivers and a completely different tx/rx system, hook a 40 amp system up just to see if would work and it does, so I put the Phoenix Ice in the mail this morning for repair. As for the build, I think it was a very nice, I put together a lot of Aeroworks planes and I would consider them some of the best, well design planes around. This plane is right up there with just a few minor issues, but no big deal, but I always change thing a little, I used Du-bro ball links and pushrods for the elevators and ailerons, I also used a Modified Du-bro tail wheel. I did not like the way the wheel pants went on so I had to use longer axle and screw the wheel pants directly to the landing gear. I did like the canopy being mounted to the hatch; I wish it way pre hinged. Two things I always make a mess are canopies and hinges. As an example, I am trying to be very careful to do a good job of hinging the stabs, did the first one, got a little CA run. Grab the de-bonder to clean it up. Did the next stab, no CA runs, looks great. So I am connecting the push rod and the elevator come out of the stab, I used de-bonder, not CA to glue the hinges. But do you all think that four Geo magnets will hold the canopy on? And I guess that the two wood push out on the firewall are to be removed? Cannot wait to fly it. TMG

Doug Cronkhite

My Feedback: (34)

I looked at those wood cutouts on the firewall, and I think you want to leave them in place to ensure air flows up and over your controller and batteries. Obviously you need to remove the cutouts on the bottom of the fuse though..

CRAPTECH

Just an up date: It is cold and windy today and a friend let me use his Phonenix Ice 100, plug and play. works great. Glad I sent my 75 back. TMG

koakiss

i agree. the cutouts on the fire wall looks like it was ment for combustion power system. Anyone try magnets for the cokpit? doing those screws takes time and not for sure they wont come loss during flight.